Demre
Demre lies tucked along Turkey’s southern shore, where rugged Taurus Mountains meet the Mediterranean’s deep blue. The town itself bustles with citrus orchards and vegetable fields, surrounded by olive groves, pomegranate and orange trees. Yet its greatest treasures lie in human history: an ancient Lycian city, a 4th-century bishop whose legend became Santa Claus, and a nearby island of partially submerged ruins. In Demre, each corner of the landscape seems to carry a story—cliffs peppered with carved tombs, a stone basilica rising from the ground, and a harbor dotted with tour boats. Pilgrims and travelers alike flock here not for resorts, but to walk amid the layers of time. Modern Demre is both a farming town and a gateway to antiquity. It maintains quiet daily life far from Turkey’s crowded mega-resorts, giving visitors a taste of authentic culture as they explore Lycian relics and swim in azure bays. In short, Demre invites you to step from a mosaic-fragmented church floor into open-air ruins framed by the Turquoise Coast.
Is Demre Worth Visiting? Five Unforgettable Reasons
- Trace a Legend: Walk in the footsteps of Saint Nicholas. The church of Myra (in Demre) holds the tomb of the real Saint Nicholas of Myra, the 4th-century bishop who became the model for Santa Claus. Visitors can feel a connection to that distant generosity, touching the ancient sarcophagus and seeing the very altar where Nicholas preached.
- Explore a Major Ancient City: Stand in Myra’s massive Roman theater and peer up at cliffside Lycian tombs. Myra was one of Lycia’s largest cities. Its open-air ruins—especially the well-preserved amphitheater (seating ~12,000) and the carved necropolis—are an archaeologist’s dream. A single afternoon here immerses you in Mediterranean antiquity.
- Sail Over a Sunken World: From Demre’s harbor you can join boat trips to Kekova Island, where ancient Dolichiste lies half-drowned. The nearest shore (the village of Kaleköy, or ancient Simena) sits above a “Sunken City” whose walls, steps and columns now skim the water’s surface. Glass-bottom boats and kayaks let families snorkel the ruins. Swimming stops in emerald bays are part of the adventure.
- Experience Authentic Turkish Life: Demre is still a working town of farmers and fishers. It has simple local markets (try the lively Friday bazaar), quiet beaches backed by fishing boats, and modest pensions and bungalows instead of high-rise hotels. This low-key setting is ideal for travelers who want genuine village charm, fresh seafood and olive oil, and friendly encounters with locals in neighborhood cafes. In Demre you see today’s Turkey alongside its relics of the past.
- Enjoy the Turquoise Coast’s Beauty: Beyond ruins, the scenery enthralls. Olive-studded mountains fall to lemon-grove valleys and steep seaside bluffs. Beaches of fine sand meet the warm Mediterranean waters – especially at Çayağzı (Andriake) and the quiet cove of Sülüklü – where sea turtles nest undisturbed. On clear days the play of sun and blue water is, as one local note puts it, “a sea unique in the world”. From Demre you can also hike sections of the Lycian Way, with cliffside views at every turn.
Each of these five reasons alone draws visitors; together they make Demre a multidimensional experience. By day you can wander antiquities and swim at sandy shores, by night walk through town among pomegranate gardens scented by brine. After visiting Demre, most travelers agree: this unassuming town quietly delivers a rich tapestry of encounters.
Demre’s History: From Ancient Myra to a Modern Town
Demre’s past begins as the city of Myra, one of Lycia’s principal ancient cities. Lycia was a loose federation of cities that dominated this coast in classical antiquity, and Myra was among its largest and wealthiest. It lay not on the seashore, but slightly inland, perched above the Myros River (now the Demre River). In Lycian times (centuries before Christ) Myra built massive tombs and a temple-rich acropolis. Its Roman theater and tombs, cut into the limestone cliffs, date mainly to the Hellenistic and Roman periods. These rock-carved tombs, some with temple-like facades and even a lion-shaped “Painted Tomb,” reflect Lycia’s unique funerary artistry.
By the Roman era, Myra had joined the Roman Republic and Empire, remaining influential in the Lycian League. Roman emperors improved its harbor and built public works such as a granary. Yet nature turned on the city: over many centuries the Myros River silted up its harbor and valley. This relentless build-up buried large parts of Myra under mud and made the coastline recede. Today, most of the ancient city lies buried; only the theater, tombs and a few streets are visible above ground. (Visitors at the site can see the theater and tombs today, while artifacts and city walls lie out of sight under fertile fields.)
In the early Byzantine period (after Rome split), Myra became prominent for another reason: its bishop, Nicholas, gained a saintly reputation. The Christian church in Myra grew in influence. By the 6th and 7th centuries, imperial attention helped build churches here, including the basilica now known as St. Nicholas Church. Myra remained an important episcopal see in Anatolia. However, the city suffered from 6th-century plagues and later from successive raids in the medieval era. By the 11th century, pressures from Seljuk Turkish incursions and internal decline had emptied much of Myra’s population. The last Byzantine residents fell victim to the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey, and the Christian community of Myra (then called Kale) relocated to Greece. The great church was abandoned at that time, buried under sand and neglect.
Kale to Demre: A New Name for an Old Town. For centuries after 1923, the village here was known simply as Kale (meaning “castle”), after nearby castle ruins. Fishermen, farmers and a small Turkish population lived quietly amid the Lycian ruins. In 2005 the Turkish government renamed Kale as Demre, reviving the ancient regional name (Demre was the name of the region and river historically). Demre today is a modest town of perhaps 30,000 people. It remains tied to the land: in early summer the countryside blooms with tomatoes (Demre is famous in Turkey for its tomato crops) and citrus, and the local economy still relies on agriculture. The old Lycian past, however, has been reborn as heritage tourism. Careful excavations and restorations now welcome visitors to Myra’s ruins and to the church of its most famous bishop.
In modern Demre you see this dual legacy: road signs for farms and orchards stand alongside directions to archaeological parks, and minarets rise behind ancient pillars. The past has not been manufactured for tourists, but it remains ever-present, touched by olive branches and sea breezes. In many ways Demre itself feels like part of the ruins—a living village built amid the marble theatre and tombs it protects.
The Man Behind the Legend: Saint Nicholas of Myra
Who Was Saint Nicholas of Myra? The Historical Figure
Saint Nicholas was born in Patara (another Lycian city) around the year 270 AD. He was of Greek heritage and came from a wealthy family of merchants. Early in his life he traveled to Jerusalem for pilgrimages, then returned to become the bishop of Myra (Demre) in the 4th century. Nicholas became beloved for his generosity. Church tradition tells that he secretly gave bags of gold to a poor family of Myra so that the daughters could marry instead of go into slavery, and that he rescued sailors from storms by prayer. Over time these stories of kindness grew so famous that Nicholas became regarded as the patron saint of children, sailors and the underprivileged. In the Eastern Orthodox Church he is one of the foremost saints.
Nicholas served as bishop in Myra until his death (tradition dates this around 343 AD). In life he was an ascetic, modest in clothing, and always helping those in need. Churches in Myra even in antiquity recorded miracles attributed to him, like raining wheat during famine. His reputation spread beyond Lycia through the Byzantine world. In art he is usually depicted as a portly bishop blessing with one hand and holding the Gospel in the other. In Demre today, statues and icons of St. Nicholas (such as the one that stands by his church) show a wise, silver-bearded man wearing bishop’s vestments. (One statue inside the church, for example, shows him holding a Bible and wearing crosses on his robes, capturing his sanctity.)
Over the centuries, Saint Nicholas became the model for the Western Santa Claus. The idea of a generous gift-giver likely links back to Nicholas’s secret midnight gifts to the needy. However, it’s important to note: Nicholas the man was a 4th-century Mediterranean bishop, not a figure of snowy winters. He never had reindeer or lived at the North Pole; instead, his favorite gifts were food and gold coins, and he worked by olive-woodlight. Still, many North Americans now associate him with Demre: postcards in Demre depict him in a Russian-style bishop’s cape instead of Santa’s fur coat. In that sense, St. Nicholas of Myra is the original Santa Claus, but in history he remains a local saint of Myra/Demre.
Are the Relics of St. Nicholas in Demre? The Stolen Bones
For centuries after Nicholas’s death, his bones were kept in the church at Myra (in a sarcophagus below the church altar). His tomb in Demre was a pilgrimage site in medieval times. However, in 1087 a group of Italian merchants from Bari secretly entered the church and took most of Nicholas’s remains back to Italy. They wanted to protect the relics (and attract pilgrims) during a time of danger, so they brought them to Bari. Today almost all the bones of Nicholas are housed in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari, Italy.
Does Demre have any of Nicholas’s remains now? A local tradition holds that a few fragments (perhaps a few teeth or bone shards) were left behind. These are said to be kept at the Antalya Museum today. In Demre’s St. Nicholas Church you can still see the damaged sarcophagus itself, ornate with carved fish and acanthus leaves. Nicholas’s empty coffin lies in a side chapel of the church, a poignant reminder. In 1968, long after the relics left, local archaeologists roofed the burial chamber over to preserve it.
Thus, visitors to Demre can touch the same stone coffin that once held Nicholas’s remains, even though the bones are gone. This history adds to the air of reverence here. On December 6 every year (Nicholas’s feast day), Greek Orthodox faithful still gather at Demre’s church for blessings of children, celebrating the saint’s memory where he lived. In this way the bishop of Myra remains alive in the town’s life, more than fifteen centuries after he walked its streets.
Planning Your Trip to Demre: The Essentials
How Do You Get to Demre?
Demre is accessible by road from several nearby hubs. The nearest major airport is Antalya (AYT). From Antalya you can rent a car or take a bus toward Finike/Kaş and get off at Demre. By car, the drive is about 140 km westward along the coastal D400 highway. Most guides note it takes roughly 2.5 to 3 hours to drive from Antalya to Demre. Buses (turkuaz minibuses or coaches) leave Antalya’s main bus station regularly and also take roughly 3 hours to reach Demre (with stops along the way). Alternatively, from the small town of Kaş (70 km east of Demre), the journey is much shorter: Demre lies just under 50 km east along the coast (a 45–60 minute drive). Smaller dolmuş minibuses run frequently between Demre and Kaş as well.
If you are taking a tour or joining an excursion, many cruises on the Mediterranean make a day stop at Demre/Kekova during summer. But if you arrive on your own, the easiest way is by road transport. A taxi or bus from Kaş is quick, while driving gives flexibility to stop at sites like Kalkan or one of the beaches en route. From Finike (east of Demre) it is a similar drive on the D400.
What Is the Best Time to Visit Demre?
Like most of southern Turkey, Demre has a Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and mild winters. Summer (July–August) can be very hot (often 35°C/95°F), with busy tourist activity on boat tours. For most travelers, the ideal months are spring and autumn. According to climate data, the best seasons are March through early June and October through early December. During these shoulder seasons the weather is warm but not scorching, and the citrus and wildflowers are in bloom. For example, April and May bring pleasant daytime highs in the mid-20s°C, and October sees the sea still warm enough for swimming. Late fall (November) is cooler (around 15–20°C daytime), but still comfortable for sightseeing (and often quieter).
Many guides also recommend avoiding mid-summer if you dislike heat. July and August not only heat up but also draw the largest crowds on boats to Kekova and on Lycian Way trails. On the other hand, winter (December–February) remains mild but with more rainfall; the ferry boat tours generally stop running after late October. In winter you can still visit Myra’s ruins and St. Nicholas Church (they are open year-round) but expect some rain and fewer services.
In summary, if you want the balance of nice weather and fewer tourists, plan for April–June or September–October. Those months allow easy road travel and comfortable hikes in the hills. Just check local calendars: in summer and early fall Demre may host festivals (of olives, tomatoes or local wine) that visitors might enjoy joining. In the rainy winter months, note that roads remain open but some remote sites can be slick.
Getting Around Demre: Your Transportation Options
Once in Demre, the key historic sites (Myra ruins and St. Nicholas Church) are only a short drive from each other, so most visitors use either a taxi, rental car or organized tour van. Within Demre town itself, walking is easy: the church and museum are right downtown, and small pensions and restaurants are clustered nearby. To reach Andriake (about 2 km west) you can walk along the riverside (it’s flat and scenic) or take a local dolmuş/minibus for a few lira.
For day tours (especially to Kekova), boats leave from docks in Demre’s harbor area in Çayağzı Bay. Tour operators will pick you up from central Demre and take you to the departure point. If you prefer driving yourself, car rental is available in town; a car is useful if you plan to explore sights like Sülüklü Beach or the ancient site of Soura along the coast. Just keep in mind that rural roads can be narrow and unpaved once you leave the highway.
When planning transfers, most travelers arrange transport through hotels or local agencies. For a budget option, shared dolmuş minibuses shuttle between Demre and Kaş/Antalya (but do not stop at archeological sites). Many visitors report that local drivers and guides are helpful. Also keep in mind that Demre’s main archaeological site (Myra) is marked on the Lycian Way (long-distance hiking route), so some hikers even arrive on foot via coast trail from Kaş. Whichever way you get around, the distances are relatively short by Turkish standards: you’ll spend more time on site-seeing than on long drives within Demre’s district.
Top 10 Things to Do in Demre: An Unforgettable Itinerary
- Explore the Ancient City of Myra. Begin at Myra’s archaeological park, about 3 km west of Demre. Walk among the remains of Roman streets and visit the famed theater and necropoleis. The Roman Theater itself is massive and scenic: its rows of stone seats and intact stage transport you back to the height of antiquity. Witness the carved Medusa reliefs and imagine 12,000 Lycian citizens cheering Greek dramas here. In the river valley below, view the cliff-face rock-cut tombs (especially the red-painted “Lion’s Tomb”). These tomb façades, some carved like temple fronts or houses, embody the Lycian love of ancestor worship. Spend an hour or two at Myra: a slow walk lets you appreciate inscriptions and details. (Tip: Myra Ancient City is open 8:00–19:00 in summer and 8:30–17:30 in winter. Entrance is 450₺, free with Turkey’s Museum Pass.)
- Visit the Church of St. Nicholas. Only a few hundred meters from Myra’s ruins stands the basilica where Nicholas served as bishop. Today the St. Nicholas Church is an open-air museum. Enter through its restored outer walls to see a wide nave with ancient marble floor inlays (opus sectile). Look up to find surviving frescoes: one aisle contains rare wall paintings depicting scenes from Nicholas’s life (e.g. rescuing girls, calming a storm). Down in the crypt, locate the broken sarcophagus of Nicholas—ornamented with fishes and leaves, it held his bones until the 11th century. (His relics were removed to Bari in 1087.) St. Nicholas Church is itself a highlight of Demre: medieval restorations have kept it standing, and in 2007 it even briefly held an Orthodox liturgy again. Before you leave, note the view southward: the coast and mountains stretch out toward Kekova, reminding you of how this quiet town became famous worldwide.
- Sail the Sunken City of Kekova. No trip to Demre is complete without a boat excursion. From the harbor of Kaleköy (Simena) or from the small port at Üçağız (just west of Kaleköy), glass-bottom and wooden gulet boats depart daily for Kekova Island. On this tour you will cruise along the coast, sometimes stopping to swim in emerald bays. The highlight is passing over the Sunken City of Dolichiste (ancient Kekova), whose ruins lay just under the water surface. Don’t jump in; the site is protected. Instead, peer through the boat’s glass floor as the fringing walls and steps loom beneath you. These ruins sank during a 2nd-century AD earthquake. The boats then anchor at Kaleköy, where you can climb up to the Byzantine castle for a panoramic view (overlooking the same bay). Gliding on these calm waters, you’ll realize why Demre people call their sea “unique”.
- Hike or Paddle in the Bay of Kaleköy (Simena). After the boat tour, explore Kaleköy itself. From the dock, follow the winding path up to Simena Castle. Built in layers (by Romans, Byzantines and Crusaders), the fortress sits 45 meters above the harbor. Climb its battlements and you see the turquoise bay dotted with gulets and flotillas of kayaks. Within the castle walls are the remains of a small amphitheater and a glinting underwater sarcophagus (fun evidence of the quake that sank parts of Simena). Afterward, descend to beach-level and walk through Kaleköy village; its red-roofed houses and olive groves hug the water’s edge. Kayakers can paddle out from here along the rocky coast to hidden coves. Even simply sitting at a seaside cafe with a lemonade and watching the day-trippers is delightful.
- Tour the Lycian Civilizations Museum at Andriake. Back near Demre (at the modern village of Çayağzı) stands Andriake, the ancient port of Myra. Here the striking Hadrianic Granary (a 2nd-century massive stone warehouse) has been reborn as a museum. Inside, curated artifacts outline the region’s Lycian and Roman heritage. Walk the exhibit halls to see Lycian stele, Roman pottery, Byzantine-era icons and the rusty blades of old Galley anchors. Outside, you can still walk on the granary’s marble floor and peer into a huge pile of murex shells – evidence that Andriake was a center for the prized purple dye industry. This site links Demre’s past with its agricultural present: alongside the granary you’ll notice local farmers selling olives and oranges. Visiting Andriake takes only an hour or two, but it’s a must for history buffs and a peaceful counterpoint to the open-air ruins.
- Discover the Oracle of Soura. A short drive (or walk along country lanes) from Çayağzı lies Sura (Soura), a lesser-known Lycian site atop a hill. Soura was once a temple city, especially famous for an oracle of Apollo. Today only foundations and column fragments remain, but the hilltop setting is sublime. Overlook rolling olive groves and Demre’s coastline as you explore the ruins of temples and agoras. Because admission is free and the trail is off the beaten track, Soura offers a quiet spot for picnics or contemplation among wildflowers. This walk is especially lovely in spring when meadow flowers bloom; it appeals to both hikers and families looking to combine history with nature on the Lycian Way.
- Swim at Demre’s Beaches. Yes, you can swim in Demre! The sandy Çayağzı Beach (at Andriake, at the river mouth) and Sülüklü Beach (a little further west) are shaded by palms and backed by cafes. Rent a sunbed and cool off in shallow water, or hire a kayak or rowboat. (On a calm day, schools of small fish may dance near your ankles.) Sülüklü is named after leeches, but don’t let that scare you – it’s really just a peaceful cove where sea turtles lay their eggs. In summer, local families picnic here at sunset. If you have more time, venture a bit east to Taşdibi Beach, another long sandy strip great for beach volleyball or sandwiches from a lakeside Kervansaray.
- Sample Local Food and Markets. Demre’s market (especially lively on Friday mornings) sells the harvest of the plains: plump eggplants, sweet cherries, figs and cheeses. Nearby stands also offer preserves made with honey and local herbs. For lunch, look for open-air restaurants near the river or beach. Try the grilled fish (bass or bonito) straight from the Mediterranean, served with tzatziki and salad drizzled in Demre olive oil. Other specialties include vegetable stews cooked in olive oil (“zeytinyağlı” dishes) and white sheep’s cheese from the Taurus flocks. Don’t miss a spoonful of kaymak (thick clotted cream) topped with local honey for dessert. Dining here is both relaxed and affordable – a perfect reward after a day of walking or sailing.
- Take a Lycian Way Hike. The famous Lycian Way trail grazes the Demre district, offering remarkable day hikes. One popular route follows the coast from Kaleköy to Olympos or Finike. Alternatively, hikers often approach Demre via a scenic variant that skirts through Çayağzı and the ruins at Andriake. Shorter walks (3–5 km) go from Demre out to Sülüklü Beach or inland to olive groves. Keep an eye out for Mediterranean birds (egrets and hoopoes are common) as you trek. Even if you’re not a backpacker, consider hiring a local guide for a half-day trail, so you can learn the Lycian names of ruins you pass.
- Relax with a 3-Day Sample Itinerary. To truly absorb Demre, spread these sights over a few days. For example: Day 1: Morning at Myra (tombs and theatre), lunch in Demre town, afternoon at St. Nicholas Church, evening stroll by the river at Çayağzı. Day 2: Take the boat to Kekova and Kaleköy; hike Simena Castle, swim and snorkel. Return for fresh fish by sunset. Day 3: Drive to Andriake to see the museum and ruins, then visit Soura or pick a beach for a swim. End your trip in Demre with shopping at the Friday market and a farewell Turkish coffee. This flexible schedule leaves room for vineyards, local festivals or an extra swim – depending on the season.
Whatever your pace, Demre’s compact nature makes all these highlights achievable. Pleasant surprises often come: a stray cat relaxing among tomb sculptures, or an impromptu live performance by local musicians in the old town square. In Demre, the path of each day is your own to trace through ancient stones and seaside vistas.
St. Nicholas Church: A Pilgrimage to the Home of Santa Claus
Where Is the St. Nicholas Church? Location and Significance
St. Nicholas Church stands in the heart of Demre (formerly called Kale) in Antalya Province, Turkey. It sits on the south side of town, just uphill from the river. In antiquity this was the Christian basilica of Myra, built directly over the cave where Saint Nicholas was originally buried. The church is part of the same archaeological site as Myra’s theater and tombs, though today you enter it through its own set of stone walls and courtyard. Recognized as historically important, the building is on UNESCO’s Tentative List for World Heritage Sites. (Inside Demre, locals will refer to this site as “Aziz Nikola Kilisesi.”)
The church’s location itself is dramatic: it occupies a high ridge, and from its grounds you can gaze out toward the gulf and mountains. In medieval times, pilgrims traveled here from across Christendom, so the church functioned as a regional pilgrimage center. Today, when you cross the threshold of St. Nicholas Church, you enter a quiet garden of ruins lit by Mediterranean sunshine. Within the stone walls, an empty casket on the floor marks the saint’s original tomb. The building’s very walls speak history, for in 1862 the Russian czar Alexander II partially restored the structure as a gesture of piety. Though the church fell into neglect after 1923, conservation efforts in recent decades have stabilized the ruins. Now it operates as an open-air museum, with interpretive signs in multiple languages.
The Architecture and Frescoes: A Visual Tour
St. Nicholas Church (a basilica) was first built around AD 520 on earlier church foundations. Its architecture is robust Byzantine: thick walls of stone, arched windows, and fragments of red-tiled roofing. Inside, the wide central nave originally had an ornate mosaic floor (opus sectile) made of colored marble tiles. Some of these mosaic pieces remain in the earth, showing geometric patterns in white, green and rose marble. The church’s most famous artistic feature, however, is on its walls. In the northeast corner of the church you will find the only known ancient frescoes of St. Nicholas’s life cycle. These 6th–7th century wall paintings depict scenes such as the Gift of Gold to the Poor and the Apocalyptic vision, painted in earthy reds and blues. (Remarkably, these survived centuries of abandonment under mud.) The most legible fresco shows Nicholas enthroned among bishops.
Look for also later fresco fragments in the main apse and dome. One charming detail: a dome scene known as the Communion of the Apostles, which is not directly about Nicholas but underscores the sacredness of the space. Much of the original wall art has been lost or painted over by the 1862 restoration, but visitors can still stand in the church and imagine the long line of faithful who saw these images.
Finally, descend to the crypt (right side of the altar area). Here under a low roof is the confessio – the chamber of St. Nicholas’s grave. The stone sarcophagus itself is visible; it’s mutilated where 11th-century thieves cut it open. Today it sits under a glass canopy to protect it. If you visit, touch the carved design of scales (fish motifs) on its lid – an ancient artifact you have rescued from burial and time.
Practical Information for Your Visit
The church is open year-round. According to local tourist info, visiting hours are 08:00–19:00 in summer (Apr 1–Oct 1) and 08:30–17:30 in winter. A modest admission fee applies, which is included if you have the Turkish Museum Pass (a card that covers many sites). Photography is allowed (it’s outdoors), but drones are typically prohibited over the site. There is a small visitor center and café just outside the church grounds.
To reach the church, you can simply walk from the Demre center (it’s a steep 10-minute uphill stroll through old village lanes) or take a taxi. In Demre, street signs and locals will point you to “St. Nicholas Kilisesi.” The church sits on a hillside 30 meters above the town center; when you stand among its columns, you see Demre spread out below. Nearby parking and a shuttle bus are often offered by tour operators for groups. Even if you arrive in the heat of day, the inside of the basilica provides shade, and a few gardens with citrus trees offer a respite.
Guides often recommend visiting the church early or late to avoid the heat and crowds. Many visitors pair it with Myra in the same day. On December 6 (Nicholas Day), the church is especially festive: international Orthodox pilgrims gather here for a multilingual service. But on any day, stepping through its ruined arches is a solemn, reflective experience. It may not take long to walk through, but those few minutes in St. Nicholas’s presence are memorable: the salt wind, ancient stones, and quiet where a saint once preached.
The Sunken City of Kekova: A Voyage to a Lost World
What Is the Sunken City of Kekova? The Story of Dolichiste
Kekova Island (ancient name Dolichiste) lies just offshore from Demre, a low ridge of scrubby hills and sun-bleached rocks. On its north side, underwater walls and building foundations emerge from the sea – the Sunken City. In classical times Dolichiste was a thriving Lycian town with its own harbor. A powerful earthquake in the 2nd century AD tore the city apart and sank much of it beneath the waves. Those maritime ruins are what boaters now glimpse under the clear water.
Above water you can still see some ruins on Kekova’s shore: remains of city walls and structures at a site called Tersane (meaning “dockyard”). These too reflect Dolichiste’s urban plan. Turkish environmental law now protects most of Kekova as a marine zone. Swimming is forbidden directly over the sunken ruins (to prevent damage), though boats safely pass by. A 1990 protection decree means you cannot build on Kekova Island; it is entirely uninhabited. Thus, as you sail by, you are literally looking at a time capsule.
Key facts: Kekova Island is about 4.5 sq km in size. It was briefly inhabited by farmers during summer in the 20th century, but now stands empty. Ancient writers knew Dolichiste by name; it was an ally of Rhodes in Hellenistic times. Today, the phrase “Sunken City” usually refers to the underwater ruins you see from boats around Kaleköy and Üçağız. For Demre visitors, Kekova is a short boat ride away and thus one of the easiest “underwater archaeology” sites in the world to experience without special gear.
Are There Boat Tours from Demre? Your Options Explored
Yes. Several operators in Demre run daily boat trips to Kekova from April through October. Tours typically depart from the small harbor at Andriake (Çayağzı) or from Üçağız (a village 10 km west of Demre). They often advertise as Kekova Tours or Kaleköy Cruises. These boats follow a set route: they sail by the sites of the sunken city, then anchor to allow swimming in the bays, and finally stop at Kaleköy for lunch and sightseeing.
Standard Kekova tours (often 8:00 or 9:00–17:00) include visits to Simena Castle and optional kayaking. Families with children report that guides usually make room for kid-friendly swimming breaks. Tour operators in Demre offer morning and half-day options. It’s wise to book a day in advance during high season. Alternatively, private charters or sunset cruises can be arranged by local agencies or your hotel.
If you prefer a self-drive approach, you can combine Demre and Kekova with a car/bus and local boats: drive or bus from Antalya to Üçağız (some boats to Dolichiste depart from there too) and take a ferry or boat. But most travelers find the guided Demre departures easiest, as they handle entry to the protected zone and commentary. As one travel site notes, “boats departing from Demre’s coast reach Kekova directly”, making it a seamless sea adventure from the Demre area.
How Do I Get from Demre to Kekova? Planning Your Boat Trip
In practice, all routes from Demre to Kekova involve sea travel. The common sequence is: in Demre town, take a taxi or bus to the village of Çayağzı (also called Andriake). There, you board your Kekova boat. Demre is only about 2 km from Andriake, so a short dolmuş ride or drive suffices. Once on board, the boat will steer southwest toward Kekova Island. The waters in this part of the Mediterranean are calm and clear, making for a comfortable trip.
It’s also possible (though less usual) to reach Kekova via Kaş: buses connect Kaş to Üçağız, and some tour boats depart from Üçağız’s docks as well. But the straightest way for Demre visitors is via the local operators based in Demre. After visiting Kekova, the boat returns to Demre or Üçağız by late afternoon. Since parking is limited in Çayağzı, many people bundle it with Myra and St. Nicholas on a single day: leave Demre early for Kekova, return for lunch at Demre, then hit the church and ruins in the afternoon.
If you rent a car, set your GPS for “Kaleköy, Demre” or “Üçağız.” Once you park near the pier, you simply pay a landing fee for the protected area and climb aboard. Boats often carry snorkels and masks – not to explore the sunken city (that’s closed), but to enjoy open-water swimming in bays such as Esmeralda or Karemlik on the return trip.
Beyond the Main Attractions: Other Notable Sites in and Around Demre
- Andriake (Çayağzı) and the Lycian Civilizations Museum. Already mentioned above, this is where the ancient port of Myra stood. Besides the granary, Andriake has recently uncovered Roman baths, a mosaic-filled villa and the foundations of an agora (marketplace). The Lycian Civilizations Museum occupies the granary and former Roman baths. Even a quick stop here enriches your understanding of regional history. In summer, local campers and guides at Andriake can also arrange traditional Turkish picnics by the river.
- Kaleköy (Simena) Cemetery. On the lower slopes of Simena Castle (near the village) there lies an ancient cemetery with dozens of tall Lycian sarcophagi carved in place. These stone tombs, each like a small temple, overlook the harbor. Visitors climbing up to the castle pass right by them. The sight of these weathered sarcophagi (many shaped like temple-fronts) in olive groves is hauntingly beautiful. It reminds one that this area was settled continuously for millennia, and that the tomb-chambers of the wealthy had front-row sea views.
- The Bay of Yeşilköy (Green Village). About 7 km east of Demre is a little seaside hamlet called Yeşilköy. It’s best known for its natural lagoon (Yeşilköy Lake) and a small Byzantine fort (now mostly ruins). If you have time for a scenic detour, the road up from Andriake winds through cedar forests and vineyards, finally opening onto the green bay. This is an ideal spot for kayaking or just enjoying a quiet drink by the lake while overlooking the ocean. It’s much less visited, so you may well have the place to yourself.
- St. Gabriel (Alakilise) Church. Northeast of Demre are hillside ruins of a 5th-6th century basilica called Alakilise (Church of Gabriel). Reached by a rugged road from the direction of Zeytin (another small town), it is a little-known but atmospheric site. The partially standing apse and columns of this red-roofed church sit among summer goat herds. You’d go mainly if you have extra days and want to explore rural Lycia beyond the usual trail.
Each of these “offbeat” places is quite close by (5–15 km) and can be fitted into an extra half-day. They share a common charm: few tourists, easy access, and unexpected vistas (mountain olive groves, stork nests, hidden bays). Local guides in Demre can arrange tours that include one or more of these if you seek a deeper adventure.
Swimming and Beaches: A Guide to Demre’s Coves
Çayağzı (Andriake) Beach: Here the Demre/Eğirli River flows into the sea, creating a peaceful inlet. The beach is sandy and shallow, protected by the river’s curve. In summer it is warm and seldom crowded during weekdays. A few cafes and boat rentals line the shore. You can wade out and watch fishing boats return. At low tide one can even see part of the ancient harbor walls that lie submerged at the mouth of the river.
Sülüklü Beach: West of the Andriake ruins is Sülüklü (meaning “Leech Beach”, though you’ll never see any). This is a quieter sandy cove facing east. It is backed by a small pine grove and offers basic amenities (a tiny café and some umbrellas). Locals say that loggerhead turtles nest here, so parts of the beach are set aside as protected zones in summer. The water is shallow for many meters, ideal for families. (Note: “leech” likely refers to the bay’s shape or color, not the wildlife.)
Taşdibi Beach: Further along the coastal road toward Kaş lies Taşdibi Beach. It is a long strand at the mouth of a small valley (Taşdibi creek). The beach is quite picturesque: golden sand, a brook trickling through, and in the distance the castle at Simena on the skyline. Several seaside restaurants serve lunch. People kayak here or walk the headland trail to a nearby cove.
In general, the water off Demre is warm enough to swim from May through October, with peak warmth in July–August. Even in late September, the sea remains inviting. The beaches attract gentle waves, so it’s safe for children (with supervision). Lifeguards are not usually on duty, so exercise caution as always. Many visitors say the best swimming is via the Kekova boat tour, where a stop is made at “Yeşilköy” or in Kaleköy’s bay for a dip. But those on land will enjoy the easy access of Çayağzı and Sülüklü beaches – especially the magical experience of sunset on Sülüklü, where light spills over the valley of olive trees.
Hiking the Lycian Way Near Demre
Demre sits on one of the coastal stages of the Lycian Way, Turkey’s famous long-distance trail. Hikers report that the stretch around Demre (between Kaş and Finike regions) offers remarkable scenery: sea bluffs, hidden bays and antique ruins. One recommended route is the coastal variant that descends to Çayağzı (Andriake) instead of climbing over Demre town. This detour brings you directly past the Andriake harbor ruins before following the modern road to Demre.
Day hikers can pick up the trail at Kaleköy (after visiting the castle) and walk east toward Andriake. This segment (Kaleköy to Demre via Çayağzı) is about 11 km and traverses woodland and farmland with only gentle slopes. Water is limited along the Lycian Way, so carry enough (though fountains have appeared in villages). For a more strenuous option, one can trek south from Demre into the foothills of the Taurus range; these loops visit old shepherd villages and yield panoramic views of the gulf.
Several local walking tours offer guided hikes around Demre, often linking with cultural sites. For example, a popular half-day trek goes from St. Nicholas Church uphill to Kirme (an abandoned Greek village) then out to Olympos Beach on the Finike highway. This gives both mountain and sea scenery. Even casual walkers will enjoy cresting a ridge to see Demre laid out below – a reminder of how the Lycian Way literally links the layers of landscape and history in this region.
What to Eat in Demre: A Taste of Local Cuisine
Demre’s cuisine is that of rural Antalya province, with fresh produce and coastal flavors. Staples include olive oil (olive groves dot the hills) and citrus fruits from local groves. Meze plates often feature zucchini fritters and stuffed grape leaves drenched in the region’s green-gold oil. Cheese-lovers will relish white goat-milk cheese (beyaz peynir) and çömlek cheese, a tangy cheese cooked in a pot.
Being on the coast, seafood is a highlight. Grilled lamprey (lakerda) and sea bass are popular evening entrées. Visit any fish restaurant by the harbor and you’ll see nets drying overhead and fresh catch laid out on ice. Demre is also known for goat-stew (“keşkek”) prepared during local festivals, often served with bread or bulgur.
One local specialty is güveç: a slow-cooked vegetable stew baked in clay pots, typically featuring eggplant, okra, peppers and tomato, often topped with feta. It’s rich but not greasy, showcasing homegrown tomatoes. Another is tandır bread, a flatbread baked underground – crusty on the outside, soft inside. For dessert, look for kabak tatlısı (candied pumpkin with walnuts and cream), a sweet where the orange winter gourds grown in Demre shine.
To wash it down, try local drinks: Raki (anise spirit) is traditional, but younger diners often enjoy Efes beer or local wines from Antalya’s vineyards. Demre’s market and cafés sell pomegranate juice and fresh lemonade. As Encounters Travel notes, Demre is “famous for olive-oil dishes, seafood and goat cheeses”. Sample as much as you can; food here is hearty and seasonally fresh. Sharing a slow meal under a pergola of grapevines is a perfect way to end a day of exploration.
Where to Stay in Demre: Accommodation for Every Budget
Demre offers a range of lodging mostly in small hotels, pensions and guesthouses. In town (Kale neighborhood), you’ll find budget to mid-range hotels and pensions in restored stone houses. Many have rooftop terraces with sea or mountain views. These are convenient for accessing restaurants and the church on foot. For example, a typical pension might serve homemade breakfast featuring olives, cheese, bread and eggs from local farms.
Close to the river lies the St. Nicholas Museum Hotel, built around 2016, which is a boutique-style property combining modern comforts with traditional décor. It attracts history buffs and honeymooners. For something more rustic, inquire about rooms at Andriake Camping & Lodges at Çayağzı: they offer wooden bungalows and a tent area right by the river.. (This site also organizes trekking and kayak outings, making it a hub for active travelers.) Another seaside option is a pension at Sülüklü Beach, where you can fall asleep to waves.
If you’re traveling on a budget, small pensions (or apart-hotels with kitchenettes) around Demre center are plentiful. Family-run guesthouses serve home-cooked dinners if arranged in advance. On the high end, Demre does not have luxury resorts, but its charm is in authentic lodging. A typical positive review will mention the friendly owners and the delicious home meal served after the day’s trip.
Demre has fewer rooms than bigger resort towns, so advance booking is wise in July–August. In off-season (winter/spring), many places run low rates or offer special deals. Turkish travel sites also list some cave-style boutique hotels near Kekova (if you don’t mind staying in the countryside and driving in to Demre by day).
Regardless of where you stay, accommodation in Demre tends to be simple and clean, and often heated by wood stoves in winter. It’s an experience meant to complement the low-key vibe of the town: expect quiet evenings, local dogs patrolling the streets, and breakfast included with fresh eggs from a neighbor’s chickens. Above all, staying here puts you within easy reach of Demre’s attractions, so you can start each morning at dawn in the ruins or markets without a long commute.
A Sample 3-Day Demre Itinerary
Day 1: Historical Core. In the morning, visit Myra. See the Roman theater and wander through the two necropolises of tombs. Midday, enjoy a picnic or lunch of gözleme (Turkish stuffed flatbread) by the Demre River. In the afternoon, walk up to St. Nicholas Church for a quiet visit; let the late-afternoon sun illuminate the frescoes. Evening in town: savor a meal of grilled sea bass and salads on a shaded terrace.
Day 2: Kekova Excursion. Take the morning boat trip to Kekova Island (April–October). Snorkel or swim when the boat stops in a bay. After lunch at Kaleköy, climb the hill to Simena Castle. Return to Demre by late afternoon. Spend the evening exploring Demre’s waterfront: stop for Turkish coffee and watch the sky turn pink behind the Taurus Mountains.
Day 3: Nature & Villages. In the morning drive east to Andriake. Tour the Lycian museum and stroll by the old granary. If feeling adventurous, continue up the wooded road to Yeşilköy for a stroll along the lagoon. Alternatively, hike the Lycian Way from Demre to the village of Çamlıca (Gündoğan) via Soura’s temple ruins. In the late afternoon, relax on Çayağzı Beach or try your hand at sea-kayaking in the Demre estuary. Finish with a tranquil dinner featuring local wine and olive oil dishes.
This itinerary is just one example – Demre rewards even the most casual plans. You can swap days around (for example, beach-lounging on day 3 and late-morning markets on day 1). Local festivals (St. Nicholas Day on Dec 6, and harvest festivals in summer) can also be woven in. The key is to balance history and leisure: after delving into Lycia’s past, make sure to leave time to simply bask in the olive groves or by the sea.
Demre for Families: A Kid-Friendly Guide
Demre can be surprisingly fun for children. Younger kids will love hearing the “Santa Claus story” in the place where he really lived – many churches in Demre have small exhibits or storyboards about Nicholas’s miracles. The moderate weather and safe beaches mean kids can splash on Sülüklü Beach or take short swims. Myra’s theater is like a giant outdoor stadium to little ones, and the exposed lion’s head tomb makes for a great photo. Boat trips to Kekova are usually family-friendly: many companies provide life jackets, and the calm bays are like giant aquariums (the glass-bottom boats fascinate children who can watch fish below).
Families should pack water and hats during hot months. Note that Demre’s grocery stores have everything from snacks to diapers, and restaurants are accustomed to kids (some even have crayons and drawings on the menu). Highchairs can be found in nicer cafes, but smaller local places have floor seating and Turkish carpets, which is fun for kids. If your children are old enough, you can even give them simple Lycian inscriptions tasks on paper while touring Myra.
Accommodations often welcome children in pensions (no 3rd person charge in a room up to 10 years old is common). Demre’s tempo is gentle (no party scene), making it easy to maintain a family routine. Finally, half-day excursions (myths of Santa or dinosaur-egg shaped tombs) keep youngsters engaged. By night, many pensions have gardens or pools where kids can play safely. In short, Demre’s mix of adventure and tranquility makes it a surprisingly family-friendly destination.
Demre, Turkey: FAQ
- What is Demre known for? Demre is best known as the site of ancient Myra and as the home of Saint Nicholas, the real-life inspiration for Santa Claus. It is also known for launching boat tours to the Kekova “Sunken City” and for its Lycian-era ruins. On maps, Demre appears because of these historical and religious connections.
- Is Demre worth visiting? Absolutely, especially for history and nature lovers. Demre’s ancient sites rank among Lycia’s top ruins, and its seaside location adds variety. Travelers cite the blend of archaeology and beach time as “unforgettable”. And yes, there is a local Santa Claus tradition which kids find charming.
- How to get to Demre from Antalya? By road, head west on the D400 highway. It’s about 140 km (3 hours) from Antalya city to Demre. Public buses run regularly. Many visitors hire a car or take a guided tour from Antalya. Driving along the coast offers beautiful views.
- What’s the best time to visit Demre? Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are ideal for mild weather and fewer crowds. Summer is very hot, though boat excursions run full-bore. Winter is off-season (sites still open, but expect rain).
- What can you see at the Ancient City of Myra? Visitors can see the large Roman theater, two cliff necropolises of Lycian tombs, Roman baths, a small agora, and the ruins of ordinary houses. The site is largely open-air and easy to walk through. Interpretive signs help identify key structures.
- Where is the St. Nicholas Church? It is in Demre town itself, perched above the harbor area. Look for the walls and bell tower near the old town center. Locals call the street “Aya Nikola” (St. Nicholas).
- How do I get to Kekova from Demre? Board a boat tour. Boats depart from small ports near Demre (Andriake/Çayağzı or Üçağız) and sail to Kekova Island. There is no ferry, only tour boats or private charters. The boat trip itself is the way to reach the “Sunken City.”
- What are the best boat tours from Demre? Reputable local operators offer day trips focusing on Kekova. These usually include stops for swimming and visits to Simena Castle. Before booking, ensure the guide has safety gear and English commentary if needed. Reviews often mention glass-bottom boat tours as memorable.
- Where to stay in Demre? Options range from family-run guesthouses in Demre town to bungalow guesthouses by the beach. Many visitors stay near the church or river. For a coastal view, book a room at an inn in Çayağzı by the harbor. Prices are generally lower than bigger resort areas, and the vibe is homey.
- What to eat in Demre? Try local specialties like olive oil stews (zeytinyağlı), grilled sea bass, and rich goat cheese. Sea food and vegetables are the stars. Desserts often use pumpkin or peaches from local farms. Don’t miss tasting Demre’s extra-virgin olive oil on a fresh salad.
- Is Demre good for families? Yes. Children enjoy the Santa Claus story, safe beaches, and relatively quiet town atmosphere. Attractions like Myra’s theater and the Kekova boat are kid-pleasers. Family pensions and simple restaurants make traveling with kids easy.
- What was Demre called before? In antiquity it was Myra. In the Ottoman and early Republican era it was called Kale, meaning “castle”. The name changed officially to Demre in 2005.
- What happened to the ancient city of Myra? Over centuries, the Myros/Demre River filled the harbor with silt, causing the city to decline and parts to become buried. Additionally, earthquakes and raids emptied Myra by medieval times. Today only the major monuments (theatre, tombs, church) are above ground.
- Are the relics of St. Nicholas in Demre? No major relics remain here. In 1087 Nicholas’s bones were taken to Bari, Italy. Demre does exhibit part of the original sarcophagus and a few bone fragments at the Antalya Museum. So while you can visit his church and tomb, the saint’s bones are not in Demre.
- How far is Demre from Antalya? About 140 km (87 miles) west along the coastal road. By car or bus it takes around 3 hours.
- How far is Demre from Kaş? Only about 48 km (30 miles) east. The drive or bus ride is under an hour on the D400 highway. Many visitors do a day trip between Kaş and Demre.
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