On Büyükada – the largest of Istanbul’s Princes’ Islands – the Church of St. George (Aya Yorgi) crowns a 204-meter-high hill known as Yüce Tepe. Far more than just an old chapel, it is a living pilgrimage shrine that draws believers of various faiths. Every spring and autumn, thousands trek here on St. George’s Day (April 23) and the Feast of St. Thekla (September 24). Legend and faith combine: the church is one of only two Christian pilgrimage sites officially recognized in modern Turkey (the other is the House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus). The atmosphere is one of quiet devotion, where pilgrims – some Christian, many Muslim – whisper prayers and tie ribbons as they ascend the steep path. Despite its humble size, Aya Yorgi has become a symbol of hopes and miracles; locals credit countless personal wishes granted after a pilgrimage here.

Perched above the Marmara Sea and dotted islands, the church’s hilltop vantage is the first gift to any visitor. From the summit one sees a sweep of blue waters and cypress groves under the sky. On a clear day the Princes’ Islands – Burgaz, Heybeli, Kınalı – and even Istanbul’s skyline in the distance form a panoramic vista. Many travelers pause in silence, absorbing the calm and cool breeze. Picnic tables surround a tea-house terrace (the Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu) where tea and snacks are served against this backdrop. The ascent’s end and the view itself set the tone: a sense of peace that the hill itself seems to share with every pilgrim.

Clearing the Confusion: The Two St. George Churches of Istanbul

Istanbul is home to two sites called “St. George” or “Aya Yorgi,” and it’s important to know which one you want:

The Patriarchal Cathedral in Fener: The Heart of Orthodoxy

In the old city (Sultanahmet), the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople maintains its cathedral of St. George (Aya Yorgi Kilisesi). This is the headquarters of the worldwide Greek Orthodox Church and the official residence of the Ecumenical Patriarch. It is a grand Byzantine-era basilica located in the Fener (Phanar) district. Visitors here encounter stately architecture, historical relics of Eastern Christianity, and the Patriarch’s offices. This church is not on an island; it is in Istanbul’s European mainland quarter. It is often bustling with formal ceremonies and processions tied to the Patriarchate’s calendar.

The Monastery on Büyükada: The Hill of Hope

By contrast, the Aya Yorgi on Büyükada is a modest hilltop monastery-church set amid pine forest, dedicated more to pilgrimage and local devotion. It belongs to the same Orthodox tradition but serves as a folk shrine where people of all backgrounds come to pray, especially on April 23 and September 24 each year. The Büyükada church is often called “Aya Yorgi of the Island” to distinguish it. Its simple, sunlit stone walls and small bell tower stand in sharp contrast to the grand, urban Patriarchal cathedral. Here you will not find crowds of dignitaries or the Patriarch himself (who typically remains in the city), but rather barefoot worshippers, local monks, and the rich folk traditions that have grown around the site.

Comparison of the Two St. George Churches

It is crucial to know which “Aya Yorgi” you mean when planning a trip. A search for “St. George Church Istanbul” without context often leads to the Patriarchate, which is a very different experience. If you intend to visit the island shrine, specify Büyükada or “Aya Yorgi Büyükada.” This guide is entirely about the monastery on Büyükada (Yüce Tepe), not the cathedral in Fener.

The Enduring Legends and Miracles of St. George

Who Was Saint George? The Dragon-Slayer and Martyr

Saint George is one of Christianity’s most famous saints. Traditionally a 3rd–4th-century Roman soldier from Cappadocia (modern-day Turkey), he was martyred for refusing to renounce his faith. Over time he became legendary as a dragon-slayer and miracle-worker. In Christian lore, George is a symbol of courage and divine protection. His iconography typically shows him on horseback spearing a dragon or serpent. He is venerated in both Eastern Orthodoxy and Western Christianity, as well as in parts of the Muslim world (his shrine at Lydda in Palestine is shared). At Aya Yorgi on Büyükada, the saint’s intercessory power is believed to be particularly strong; many pilgrimage accounts speak of Saint George answering prayers, from healing the sick to granting personal wishes.

The Founding Legend: How St. George Saved the Monastery from the Depths

Local legend ties Aya Yorgi’s location and foundation to Saint George’s intervention. According to the story, in Byzantine times an invader or natural disaster threatened to destroy the church (often told as a Muslim occupation of the island). The monks, to save their icons and treasures, buried them on the hill. Years later, a shepherd named Yorgi (George) kept dreaming of a bell ringing on the island’s highest peak. He climbed barefoot and silent to the spot, where he heard church bells. Digging there, he uncovered a cache of sacred icons, including an image of St. George. The story goes that this miraculous discovery happened on April 23 (the saint’s feast day), which led to rebuilding a church on that very site. The day is now celebrated as the church’s “birthday.” This legend explains why the original icon is considered miraculous and why the pilgrimage is held on St. George’s feast. In folk memory, then, St. George “saved” the church from oblivion by guiding the shepherd to the buried icon.

Miracles on the Hill: Stories of Healings and Granted Wishes

Over the centuries, Aya Yorgi has become a locus for reported miracles. Pilgrims come seeking cures for ailments, help with infertility, reconciliation in troubled marriages, success in exams, or simply general good fortune. Many devotees carry statues or icons to the church (to light candles), offer silver ex-votos, or hang prayer ribbons on trees. Newspapers and anthropologists have noted that attendees frequently say their previous wishes were answered. For example, local media interviewed a woman who had climbed the hill for five years in a row, declaring each year her wish was granted. Another common story is that if one climber’s thread snaps, it signifies a broken prayer (it must then be tied anew). The church’s main icon – a carved image of St. George slaying a dragon – is said to be especially powerful. Pilgrims often leave behind offerings at its feet, from medals and medals to notes and flowers. It is believed that the saint’s blessing is strongest for those who undertake the ascent in humility: barefoot, voiceless, and fully committed.

The Enduring Power of Myth and Faith at Aya Yorgi

The myths surrounding Aya Yorgi – the buried icons, the shepherd’s dream, the vow of silence – give the site an almost mythic resonance. These legends persist today not only through tourist guides but in living tradition. Even non-Christians share in the ritual: Turkish Muslim women have long made pilgrimage to Aya Yorgi, asking for health or marital blessings. (In fact, an academic study notes that the vast majority of modern pilgrims here are Muslim women, making Aya Yorgi a symbol of interfaith trust.) On festival days the atmosphere can be both jubilant and profoundly reverent: one journalist describes tens of thousands trekking up from Istanbul each spring. Night prayers, candle-lit vigils, and the ever-present murmur of hopes being spoken all lend the hill a timeless feel. Whether or not one shares the religious belief, the scene of so many people unified in hope is a reminder of the enduring human search for meaning. In this way, Aya Yorgi’s legends and miracles continue to renew faith in every generation.

The Complete History of Aya Yorgi Monastery

The Byzantine Origins: Tracing the First Foundations (AD 963)

By tradition, the origins of Aya Yorgi date back to the Byzantine Empire. An extant carved inscription (and local lore) claims the first church was founded in 963 AD under Emperor Nikephoros II Phokas. Modern scholarship calls this a “legendary foundation,” but the timing is plausible: Nikephoros reconquered parts of the Aegean around that time. According to heritage accounts, a small monastic community – perhaps Greek-speaking Christians from Constantinople – established a chapel and cells on Büyükada’s highest hill. This early shrine would have been a modest wooden or brick basilica with a simple icon of St. George. Unfortunately, no structural remains survive from this period, and written records are scant. Nevertheless, the image of an ancient Byzantine church hidden in the forest remains a romantic notion for historians and pilgrims alike.

Destruction and Rebirth: The Fourth Crusade and a Period of Silence

The Byzantine church could not survive the upheavals of the 13th century. In 1204 Latin Crusaders sacked Constantinople and many Orthodox establishments were destroyed. Some sources say Aya Yorgi fell into ruin then; others suggest it was finally plundered by Latin fleets around 1302. In any case, by the late Middle Ages the monastery was abandoned. Legend says the monks buried their sacred icons to protect them from looters, which is why the later story of discovery by the shepherd is so pivotal. Archaeologically, there is little evidence of any building on the summit during Ottoman times. Records of the Ottoman era mention the island’s churches in passing, but Aya Yorgi itself vanished from documents. Thus it remained a ruin – and memory – for centuries.

The 18th Century Revival: Rebuilding the “Old” Church (1751)

The modern history of Aya Yorgi begins in the 18th century. In 1751 the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Constantinople records the construction of a new chapel on Yüce Tepe. This “old church” was a small, two-story tile-roofed building – the surviving structure today known as the Eski Kilise (Old Church). Its dedication was likely financed by island Greeks and sanctioned by the Ottoman authorities (who by this time generally permitted local communities to rebuild churches). For nearly 150 years this humble sanctuary was the only shrine on the hill. Locals and passing sailors would have come to pray here occasionally, but it wasn’t a major pilgrimage site yet. In fact, contemporary travelers remark that for many years Aya Yorgi was relatively obscure – a hidden church in the pines.

By the mid-19th century, the Büyükada Greek community grew enough that this little old church became the focal point of a renewed devotion. Some accounts (though not fully confirmed) mention further repairs or extensions in the 1830s. Whether small or large, these 18th–19th-century efforts kept the tradition alive: villagers took stewardship of the site and told the legends about the buried icons to their children. This set the stage for the grander building that would come in a few decades.

The 19th–20th Century: Building the New Monastery (1906–1909)

The final and most visible phase of Aya Yorgi’s construction took place in the early 20th century. Local sources and an archaeological inscription agree that the present stone church was built in 1906 (the foundation stone was laid by Patriarch Meletius IV). It was consecrated on September 10, 1908, and the adjacent bell tower was completed in 1909. This new structure is crafted of finely cut limestone: its whitewashed walls and dome are the “new church” behind the old one. The old tile church from 1751 was kept as a kind of chapel. Thus the hilltop compound now had two levels of worship – the small Eski Kilise and the larger basilica above. Architecturally, the 1900s church blended traditional Greek Orthodox forms (a cross-in-square plan with a dome and painted icons) with the simple elegance of local stonework. The new monastery buildings (living quarters, kitchen, cells) were also erected around this time, enclosing a courtyard shaded by pines.

The driving force behind this rebirth was the Patriarchate along with donations from wealthy islanders. Fatherhood and church records from that era are sparse, but it is clear that the community pooled its resources. The Ottoman authorities by then granted permits for such construction, especially as the island had become a popular summer retreat for Istanbul’s Christians.

A Visual Timeline of Key Events

• 963 AD (Legendary) – Initial church built by Emperor Nikephoros II Phokas.
• 1204–1302 – Turkish/Venetian fleets sack the Byzantines; original church abandoned.
• 1751 – A new tile-roofed chapel is constructed on Yüce Tepe (per Patriarchate records).
• 1834 – (Unverified by main sources) Some traditions claim a fire and rebuilding; some local accounts mention mid-19th c. repairs.
• 1906–1909 – Present stone church and monastery built: consecrated Sept 1908, bell tower up by 1909.
• 1986 – A catastrophic fire burns the monks’ cells on the hill, leaving the church intact but destroying attached buildings.
• 1997 – Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew inaugurates the restored church and convent after years of reconstruction.

The 20th Century: The Modern Monastery and Its Place in the Republic

After World War I and the population exchanges of the 1920s, Büyükada’s Greek population dwindled. The church nearly closed, but Turkish custodianship and dedicated caretakers kept it from falling into total neglect. By the late 20th century, however, the site was largely inactive, visited only on special occasions. The 1986 fire was a turning point: it galvanized the Orthodox community (now mostly centered in Istanbul) to rebuild the complex. Over the next decade, funds from Patriarchate patrons and donations allowed for thorough restoration. Today Aya Yorgi functions again as a working monastery: a resident monk lives there, services are held weekly, and pilgrims are welcomed year-round. In the era of modern Turkey it stands as a symbol of religious tradition rather than political power. Visitors remark on how unspoiled and peaceful the site feels, as if time on this hill has slowed down. Modern conveniences like the introduction of an electric utility taxi to reach the base of the climb (replacing the island’s traditional horse-drawn buggies) coexist with age-old practices. Yet at its core, the church remains a quiet refuge – the same “holy peak” that inspired the shepherd’s devotion a millennium ago.

The Sacred Climb: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Pilgrimage Path

The “Azap Yokuşu” (Road of Torment): What Is It and Why Is It Important?

Every pilgrim’s journey begins with the steep forest path up Aya Yorgi’s hill, famously called Azap Yokuşu (Turkish for “Road of Torment” or “Road of Trial”). This name reflects the path’s difficulty and the rigorous mindset expected of climbers. The route is narrow and rocky, ascending about 200 meters through pine woods. Old stone steps in places give way to dirt and tree-rooted ground in others. Traditionally, pilgrims believed that enduring this struggle without complaint earned spiritual merit. One travel writer notes that it takes about 10–15 minutes of brisk hiking from the trailhead to reach the church (roughly the length of a short steep workout). The trail is not paved, so sturdy shoes are advisable. As an Ottoman-era note: “Ipak” or ropes were sometimes used to aid descent, but today the path is walked normally. At sunset the view from midway can already be stunning, but few reach the top that fast – most pause along the way.

Culturally, the Azap Yokuşu is as important as the church itself. It is the physical embodiment of the pilgrim’s devotion. According to local lore, if you successfully climb Azap Yokuşu barefoot and silent, you achieve the status of a “yarı hacı” (half-pilgrim). It is believed that any conversation or wavering on the path might break the spell of the pilgrimage. Thus modern visitors often pause their chatter – and even phone signals – until they reach the summit. The tradition of ascending in bare feet also persists on festival days (though most casual visitors wear shoes for safety). In short, Azap Yokuşu isn’t just a trail: it is an integral part of the ritual, reminding each climber of the effort behind every prayer.

The Tradition of the “Silent Climb”: Purpose and Practice

Silence on the climb is key. Scholars note that “a striking silence prevails all along the way”, as pilgrims fix their gaze on the path, moving only their lips to pray. This quiet ritual has multiple meanings: it creates a space for personal reflection, and symbolizes leaving worldly cares behind. According to field studies, pilgrims say silence intensifies their awareness of nature and gives them time “to have this time for them with the divine”. Legendarily, one must never look back once starting the ascent. The analogy comes from ancient stories (e.g. Lot’s wife): by not looking back, the pilgrim severs ties with past misfortunes. Many believe turning around would nullify the prayer. You will often hear elders reminding younger climbers not to glance over their shoulder. In practice, whether silent by personal vow or swept up in the crowd’s reverence, the climb usually ends with hushed awe rather than chatter.

Tying the Threads: The Ritual of Making a Wish

Perhaps the most visible tradition of the climb is the tying of threads or ribbons. These come in two varieties: loose strings and cloth prayer flags. Upon arrival in the pine grove, pilgrims will often take a ball of string and unwind it as they ascend, tying the loose end to a branch at the bottom and trailing it all the way to the church. The thread is said to represent the pilgrim’s life path or destiny; unfurling it symbolizes casting your hopes up toward God and St. George. If the string snaps, one legend warns that your wish may be lost to the sea below – so many pilgrims take care to tie it strongly!

Once inside the courtyard or near the holy spring, many pilgrims also tie colorful cloths or ribbons to bushes. This is an ancient Near Eastern custom: a way to leave a piece of yourself at the sacred site. In Aya Yorgi’s case, each color has meaning. Elderly guides explain that red cloth signifies love or missing someone, white stands for wishes of health and peace, and purple (or pink) is for hope of children. In the early 2020s even surgical masks (of all colors) were spotted hung as votives in memory of the pandemic – a modern twist on the age-old practice. Whether string or cloth, these offerings form a forest of wishes that fringe the path and shrine, a vivid sign of collective yearning. One travel writer notes that if a pilgrim manages to string a thread along the entire path without breaking it, it is said to greatly enhance the chance of their wish coming true. Such practices turn the ascent into a living tapestry of devotion.

A Practical Guide to the Climb

• Starting Point: Where the Path Begins. The Azap Yokuşu trail starts at Büyükada Çinar Meydanı (the “Plane Tree Square”) near the ferry terminal. If arriving by boat, head toward the hill overlooking the old orphanage – you’ll find signs pointing “Aya Yorgi.” The trailhead is modestly marked, often by a cross or a sign. Locals say “every islander knows it”, but first-timers should not stray onto unauthorized private land.
• Difficulty Level and Duration: What to Expect. The path is steep but well-trodden. A reasonably fit adult can reach the top in 15–20 minutes of steady climbing (longer if moving barefoot or stopping frequently). Beginners might take 30–40 minutes. The route has shady sections under trees, which help in summer, but also some exposed climbs where the sun can be strong. There are a few wooden benches and resting spots, but none are guaranteed to be free if crowds are present. At the summit you will be fatigued but rewarded by both the view and a profound sense of accomplishment. Children and young people often dash up quickly, while older visitors admire the ribbons and scenery on the way.
• What to Bring: Water, Proper Footwear, and Your Intentions. Hydration and safety: Always carry water, especially in summer. The climb can be surprisingly taxing in midday heat. A hat or sunscreen is recommended. Wear sturdy walking shoes with good grip – flip-flops are not advised on the rocky trail. Devotional items: If you have an icon or personal photo you want blessed, you can bring it; inside the church there are tables to place them before the altar. Small donations (cash, candles, printed prayer lists) can also be brought; kiosks at the top sell candles, icons, and tapes for tying. Etiquette: Dress modestly (arms and legs covered) out of respect, as this is an active place of worship. If you plan to observe the barefoot tradition, you might change footwear at the trailhead. Finally, bring an open heart: many people emphasize that intention and humility matter more than everything else on this pilgrimage.
• Is the Climb Worth It? An Honest Assessment. Most who make the climb say emphatically, yes. The combination of sweeping vistas, the solemn ritual, and the church’s peaceful ambiance make it a unique experience. At the top, one feels above the bustle of Istanbul – the silence and sea breeze reinforce a contemplative mood. The church itself is small, so a visit there takes only minutes, but the sense of pilgrimage lingers. On the other hand, be realistic: this is not an easy stroll. If you have serious knee or mobility issues, the ascent may be quite difficult. Pregnant visitors or those with heart conditions should take it very slowly, rest often, or choose another time. For young families, it can be done if parents help the little ones. The general advice is that if your heart is in the reason for coming (prayer, curiosity, or desire for a good view), you will find the effort justified. Even secular travelers appreciate the sense of entering a different world far above the busy harbor.

Architectural Deep Dive: The Art and Structure of the Church

Exterior Analysis: A Humble Facade with a Powerful Presence

Aya Yorgi’s current church building is solid yet unpretentious. It is constructed of clean white limestone blocks, typical of late Ottoman-era Orthodox churches. The front façade is simple: one rectangular doorway topped by a small arched window; above it rises a modest dome clad in lead. To the west (entrance) side stands the square bell tower – a later addition finished in 1909. Its design is sparse: a four-sided clock or bell-face on each side, with a small conical roof. The bell tower is actually older (dating to 1751) than the present church, so it has an archaic feel. A flight of shallow steps leads up to the courtyard in front of the bell tower, lending the complex a triangular silhouette against the sky.

From the outside, Aya Yorgi blends Greek and Ottoman influences. The carved stonework is Byzantine in technique, but the church’s overall effect is gentle rather than grandiose. There is one main dome over the central nave, and two half-domes over the side aisles – a common “Greek cross” plan. Narrow, tall windows punctuate the walls, admitting light but keeping the interior serene. A plain stone cross tops the roof. In sunny weather, the white walls gleam against the pines; in clouds, the bell tower and cupola take on a mystical quiet presence. This modesty reinforces the feeling that inside awaits something more, and that the real spectacle is the combination of worship and view.

Inside the Main Church: An Intimate Space for Reflection

Crossing the threshold, one enters a small nave. The ceiling is barrel-vaulted, and much lower than a typical cathedral – height is perhaps 6 meters (20 feet). The air is cool and smells faintly of beeswax candles and worn wood. Most visitors immediately notice the iconostasis, the ornate wooden screen that spans the width of the church before the altar. This multi-paneled partition is brightly painted or gilded (the paint is now slightly faded by time) and studded with icons of saints and Gospel scenes. The craftsmanship is delicate: columns and moldings frame each painted panel. Unlike grand city churches, Aya Yorgi’s iconostasis is cozy in scale, creating an intimate sacred space. Behind one of the icons at the center is the miracle-working image of St. George; it is partially covered in silver plating – a Byzantine custom to both honor an icon and offer votive wealth. GeziBilen notes there is an “original icon of Hagios Georgios completely covered with silver” on the inner wall. Pilgrims often leave candles or flowers at this central icon.

Flanking the iconostasis are alcoves and a small wooden lectern. The walls and ceiling of the chapel are painted with simple frescoes – sometimes faded – depicting scenes like the Nativity and the Resurrection. Along the side walls hang dozens of smaller icons: these include a classic Panagia (Virgin Mary with Child) and various saints. One notable panel shows St. George on horseback, spear in hand, poised above a subdued dragon in water – echoing the island legend. A narrow gallery or loft at the back was once for women or choir, now used for storage. The floor is paved with flagstone, and in front of the iconostasis one sees piles of ex-voto offerings. These include small framed photos, gold or silver keepsakes, and handwritten prayer notes. Each object testifies to a personal story of hope.

Throughout this main chamber there is no pew or bench – worship is done standing or kneeling. Candles burn in metal stands (often carried by pilgrims), and the hush is broken only by the flicker of flames. In one corner sits a fenced marble holy spring (ayazma) – its water considered blessed. GeziBilen mentions that a room below the stairs houses this spring. Many visitors drink from it or let water touch their icons. Though small, every inch of the interior feels consecrated, as if the energy of centuries’ worth of prayers still lingers.

Inside Aya Yorgi Church, the carved wooden iconostasis screens the altar. It is adorned with painted saints and a silver-covered icon of St. George slaying the dragon. (Church interior of Aya Yorgi)

The Iconostasis: A Guide to the Saints and Scenes Depicted

The iconostasis itself is a lesson in Orthodox theology. In the center stands the Royal Doors, flanked by panels of saints. To the right (the Gospel side) one usually finds icons of St. George (the patron) and other warrior saints. To the left, icons of the Theotokos (Virgin Mary) and St. Nicholas are common. Along the top might run a row of smaller icons: Christ the Pantocrator, prophets, and the Creeds. In Aya Yorgi’s screen, the colors are subdued earth tones, and gold leaf has worn off in spots. The travel press describes it simply as a “multi-colored wooden iconostasis covered with religious paintings” – and indeed it is multi-hued, mostly ochre and faded blues. Every image has its ritual place: worshippers make the sign of the cross before each in turn. The icon of St. George is the focal point: carved in relief, his figure mounted on horse with lance, and encased in silver. This icon is believed by many to have miraculous power, so photographs or close-ups of it are frequently sought.

At services, only priests can pass through the Royal Doors into the altar. On ordinary days, one can approach the iconostasis closely. Visitors are welcome to step to the front and light a candle or lay down a flower. From a photographic standpoint, the iconostasis is one of the most elaborate features here – it conveys the Orthodox story visually: salvation, martyrdom, and the communion of saints are all represented in paint and wood.

Notable Icons: The Miraculous Icon of St. George

Aside from the iconostasis, several individual icons stand out. The main St. George icon is set on a low table (or altar) just inside the sanctuary gate. It is partly obscured by metallic coverings and surrounded by a shrine of candles. No photo was available here, so describe: “a small icon of a mounted saint.” Pilgrims light tall candles before it and often place written prayers nearby. A legend on the door recounts that the original icon was found in the earth here in the 10th century; the one now displayed is a restored copy.

There are also icons of other local saints: for example, St. Thekla (celebrated Sept 24) has a niche in the wall, often draped with flowers on her feast day. The icon of the Virgin Mary (usually called Panagia Hodegetria) is likewise honored. Each icon is typically wooden and hand-painted, sometimes decades old. The frames are fairly plain, underscoring the sincerity of devotion over ornament. In sum, the icons turn the church into an open-air gallery of Orthodox faith: each paints a story of sacrifice or intercession meant to inspire hope.

Other Significant Relics and Votive Offerings

The treasures of Aya Yorgi are mostly immaterial: votive candles, handwritten notes, crutches left by healed pilgrims, and ribbons on the trees outside. Inside, the church houses a register (a guestbook) where visitors sign their names and countries. There are no grand relics (like bones of saints) on display, but there are small relics embedded in the altar cloths. Many families offer silver or gold as thanks: you will see sconces or metal decorations made from old coins or jewelry. Even the candelabra might contain melted-down silver donated to the church over the years. All these contribute to a feeling of sacred continuity: every present-day visitor can touch the same icon that past generations revered.

The Bell Tower and Surrounding Monastery Buildings

Stepping outside the nave, note the free-standing bell tower directly in front. It is four stories tall, with a large bell on its upper level. The base is square and built of the same stone as the church. The bell is rung by hand (at the liturgy or before feast-day processions). On the ground near the tower’s door is often a bowl of holy water.

Behind the church are the low buildings of the old monastery: living quarters for a priest, a small refectory, and storerooms. These are painted plain white and have a flat, tiled roof. A covered portico runs along one wall, offering shaded seating. This is where pilgrims often sit after climbing, drinking tea from the cafe or eating the traditional pilgrim’s bread tirit. Above one wing is a second small church or chapel – often called Aya Yorgi’s “upper” church – which is used for larger gatherings. In old photos, you can see monks’ cells upstairs (now restored).

All these buildings encircle a courtyard with scattered pine trees and benches. The effect is of a secluded monastery: there are no electric wires or traffic sounds, only birds and wind through the needles. Notably, the entire complex is oriented westward down the hill, so that the sunrise illuminates the church walls. From the outside one can appreciate how the modest monastery seems to grow organically from the hilltop, each structure connected by stone steps and pathways. It feels like a single purposeful unit – a holy village – rather than a tourist attraction.

Comparing the “Old” and “New” Church Structures

It is important not to confuse Aya Yorgi’s two church buildings. The “Old Church” (Eski Kilise) stands closer to the path of ascent. It is the older 1751 chapel: a charming two-story building with a sloping red roof. It is tiled and plain, and now used for small services or as an entrance foyer. Many visitors recognize it by its two balconies (upper and lower) and faded wooden crosses. Inside, it is very simple and has few decorations.

By contrast, the “New Church” (built 1906–09) is the white stone basilica we have described. It is larger, with the dome and iconostasis. Both churches are oriented east-west, but the new one is built behind and above the old one. On pilgrimage days the old church is often packed first, then overflow pours out to the new one. The two together create the impression of one continuous sanctuary ascending the hill. Guides will often stop tourists at the old church (which now mainly functions as a schoolroom or meeting hall) and explain that the grander church uphill is the one they came to see.

In summary, Aya Yorgi appears architecturally modest, but each element – from the weathered tile roof of 1751 to the cut stone edifice of 1906 – tells part of its history. Together, they emphasize function over form: the sacred experience, not the spectacle of design, is what truly defines this place.

The Heart of the Pilgrimage: St. George’s Day and Other Holy Days

April 23rd (St. George’s Day): The Peak of the Pilgrimage

Every year on April 23 (the traditional feast of St. George) Aya Yorgi transforms into a vibrant pilgrimage site. By dawn, long queues form at the ferry piers in Istanbul as thousands head for Büyükada. This was vividly reported by the Turkish press: one article noted that “thousands will be flocking out from Istanbul, boarding ferry boats to the Princes’ Islands and then making the strenuous hike up the hill”. By late morning, the Azap slope is alive with pilgrims—families, elderly women, and young devotees – many carrying bells or Greek flags. Police may cordon off parts of the road to manage the crowds. Despite the numbers, a collective silence prevails on the path, broken only by rustling footsteps and occasional whispered prayers.

What to Expect: Crowds, Rituals, and Atmosphere

Expect utter density. The courtyard in front of Aya Yorgi becomes jammed with people: some kneeling in prayer, others milling around buying candles or icons from the kiosk. Many families set out picnic spreads on the grass while waiting their turn to enter. Vendors circulate with bottles of holy water, small crosses, and souvenir tokens – though the vibe is more pilgrimage than fair. Mirroring local tradition, almost no one speaks; long-held torches or incense fill the air with a warm glow. Visitors report lines to light candles and countless requests to tie strings on the sacred trees. A travel magazine described how pilgrims “ascended the Azap slope in silence without looking back, tethering ropes to trees along the forest path”, a dramatic image of devotion. The atmosphere is both solemn and festal: Greek hymns blend with murmured prayers, and church bells ring out in counterpoint. On sunny April days, hopeful faces are uplifted toward the dome and sky as if sharing their secrets with the saint.

A First-Hand Account of the Celebration

For many local believers, attending on April 23rd is an annual pilgrimage. As one woman told reporters, she has been coming for “four or five years in a row” and firmly believes that each year “all my wishes have been accepted”. Another parent described bringing her child to have his photo taken in front of the church after Sunday school lessons, a family tradition. One may hear people say simply, “This is a good memory” or “children should know their faith” as an explanation for joining the crowds. After they pray and tie their ribbons, many pilgrims linger through the afternoon, enjoying the island’s tea gardens or hiking the other side of the hill. In short, April 23rd is a full-day communal rite: as Büyükada’s writer Hatice Özçelik observed, the ferry arrivals become “jam-packed with people…families, the lonely, the hopeful, and many first-timers all mixed together”. By sunset one often sees a horizon dotted with church lights and flickering candles – a final blessing to the event.

September 24th: The Feast of St. Thekla and a Second Pilgrimage

A lesser-known but still well-attended pilgrimage occurs on September 24th, the Feast of St. Thekla of Iconium. Tradition holds that Aya Yorgi’s ayazma (holy spring) was found on this date, which is why Thekla’s feast now also draws devout (especially women praying for children or good marriages). Turkish sources note that “every year on April 23 and September 24, [Aya Yorgi] receives an influx of visitors”. The ritual is similar: barefoot silence, candle lighting, and string-tying. Locals quip that those who climb on these days “barefoot and without speaking” are still “yarı hacı” (half-pilgrims). The Sept 24 crowds are smaller (fewer Istanbulers make autumn weekends out of it), but the devotion is no less earnest. The weather is usually perfect at end of September, and for photographers the golden afternoon light can be magical.

Visiting on Non-Pilgrimage Days: The Quiet and Contemplative Experience

Outside these peak dates, Aya Yorgi offers a very different experience. On a typical weekday or weekend in spring-summer (outside April/Sept), only a trickle of visitors arrive. The church is almost empty; it’s possible to sit on a bench in the courtyard and meditate with just the birds for company. The monks or caretakers (usually two at most) may greet you quietly in Greek or Turkish. Inside the sanctuary your footsteps echo; one has the iconostasis almost to oneself. Candles burn low; the only sound might be the church bell tolling once an hour or the rustle of wind through the pines. Pilgrim rituals (tying threads, walking barefoot) are rarely seen off-season, but visitors can still leave a prayer note or coin. In this serenity, people often linger to watch the changing sky over the sea, feeling the same sense of refuge with none of the crowds. In practical terms, quiet days mean no waits, easy parking (if driving on Büyükada is allowed), and the chance to ask the caretaker questions. For those seeking calm or closer study of the church, a non-pilgrimage day is ideal.

Your Complete Visitor’s Guide to Aya Yorgi Church

Step 1: Getting to Büyükada

Ferry to Büyükada: The only way to reach the island is by boat. Istanbul’s public ferry system (Şehir Hatları) runs multiple lines to the Princes’ Islands. Key departure points are Eminönü and Kabataş on the European side, and Kadıköy and Bostancı on the Asian side. Some ferries run direct to Büyükada, while others stop at the smaller islands first. Ferries are frequent in summer (roughly every 30–60 minutes from each pier) and slower but still available year-round. Tickets are bought from the pier or can be paid with an Istanbulkart. Note: the trip takes about 50–80 minutes (depending on starting point). In busy seasons, ferries to Büyükada may be crowded – try to catch an earlier one to avoid standing-room-only conditions. Tip: Ferries have restrooms onboard.

Step 2: Getting from the Büyükada Port to the Base of the Hill

Upon arriving at Büyükada’s main dock, you are about 3 kilometers (nearly 2 miles) from Aya Yorgi’s hillside. There are several ways to cover this distance:

• Rent a Bicycle: There are many rental stalls near the ferry pier. A bike lets you move at your own pace and stop along the way (at waterfront cafés or the old orphanage, for example). However, the road climbs steadily, so be prepared to dismount for the toughest sections. Bicycles cost roughly 50–100 TL per day. Lockers and maps are often provided. For athletic visitors, biking up to the church can be an adventure in itself.
• Electric Taxi (Dolmuş): A fleet of electric minibuses runs from the dock to major island spots. These dolmuşes charge at Büyükada’s central square and run frequent loops. You can hail one on Büyükada’s main street (it will say its last stop on the windshield). Tell the driver “Aya Yorgi” (Ayia Yorgi) and they will drop you at the last stop before the climb. From there it is a short walk up the hillside. A local tourism site notes that these electric taxis will “bring you to the point from where you can take the easy climb to Aya Yorgi”. In other words, the taxi gets you to the base of Azap Yokuşu – no scrambling up before you begin. The ride costs a few dozen Turkish lira (on the order of 10–20 TL) – far more than a bike rental, but it saves effort for those unwilling to pedal or walk.
• Walking: If you have the time and inclination, you can simply walk from the ferry. Follow signs for the church – they may point along the shoreline and then inland. The walk is about 2–3 km on paved roads and uphill paths, mostly on moderate gradient roads until the very steep ascent at Azap. It takes roughly 30–45 minutes on foot. This route lets you see the island’s scenery and villages at ground level, and you’ll pass by local shops (for snacks or last-minute water). For many, however, the heat or distance makes the combination of bike/taxi more attractive.

Note: You will no longer see horse-drawn carriages on the way. Büyükada’s historic phaetons have been replaced by the new electric buses, as local sources cheerfully report. Some visitors lament this modernization, but most agree that a quiet battery bus and few engine fumes is a better backdrop for an ascending pilgrim.

Step 3: Reaching the Summit

Now you face the final climb: Azap Yokuşu itself. From the drop-off point (or bike dismount), look for the sign-posted trail. You will see many other pilgrims ahead. There is no fee to enter the church grounds, and you may go up at any pace. A few final stairs lead to the church courtyard at the top. Take a moment to catch your breath and enjoy the view – you’ve earned it. Ahead lies the courtyard, the bell tower, and the open door of Aya Yorgi Church.

Essential Information

• Opening Hours: As a church, Aya Yorgi is open to visitors most of the day. Guides note that on most days (Monday to Saturday) it is accessible roughly 8:30 AM – 4:00 PM. On Sundays, opening hours are shorter (roughly until noon) because of the morning liturgy. During major feasts there may be services, but the public can still enter after prayers conclude. Always check local notices, as times can vary on holidays or for maintenance.
• Entrance Fee: There is no admission fee. Entry is free and all visitors are welcome. However, the church is supported by donations. At the entrance you will find a donation box or a plate for offerings. It is customary for pilgrims to leave some money (the exact amount is up to you). Candles and icons cost between a few Turkish lira to a couple of dollars. Any donation is appreciated to maintain the chapel and support the local clergy.
• Church Etiquette (What to Wear and Do): Aya Yorgi is an active place of worship. Modest dress is expected: shoulders and knees should be covered. If you arrive in shorts or tank tops, it’s polite to carry a scarf or wrap (there are often shawls to borrow or rent near the entrance). Footwear: inside the church itself, removing shoes is optional. Many pilgrims do climb barefoot, but visitors wearing shoes are not asked to remove them unless they wish to. (Note that on the path itself, shoes or sandals are strongly recommended for grip – so if you plan to climb barefoot, bring a change of shoes to walk back down.) Speak softly and turn off camera flashes inside. Always stand rather than sitting during services, and never interrupt a ritual. If priests or nuns are present, you may genuflect (bow) or make the sign of the cross when entering. Finally, treat icons and sacred objects with reverence: do not touch the clergy, altar, or icons without invitation. It is acceptable to light a candle at the stands or place a prayer note in the wooden box. In summary: act as you would in any church: respectfully, quietly, and thoughtfully.

Beyond the Church: Exploring the Rest of Büyükada

Aya Yorgi is often just one highlight of a Büyükada excursion. The island offers many other sights to fill a day or a lazy weekend.

The Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu: The Famous Hilltop Restaurant

Immediately below the church is Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu, a pavilion-style restaurant and tea garden built to serve pilgrims. Its tables offer spectacular panorama of Istanbul and the Marmara Sea. The menu is simple: tea, Turkish coffee, lemonade, grilled corn, and snacks like gözleme (flatbread) or gözleme-like pastries. The prices are higher than in town (café prices on the hill), but many consider it part of the experience. On feast days it is busy with families, and local guides mention it in almost every account of Aya Yorgi. Critics sometimes call it a “tourist trap”, but it is also a convenient place to rest. The tiled roof and open-air terrace mean you can sit and still see the church above – it feels like a second sanctuary of refreshment.

The Former Greek Orphanage: The Largest Wooden Building in Europe

Back near the ferry pier, do not miss the Büyükada Rum Yetimhanesi – a massive abandoned wooden complex dating from 1898. Once the largest orphanage in the empire, its dark wood facade has a fairytale quality. Though eyesore-level ruined in parts, its size is astonishing: Europe’s largest wooden building and second largest in the world. The nearby square has been turned into a museum (the Museum of the Princes’ Islands) housed partly in these buildings. Even from outside you can see ornate columns and peeling paint. It is an eerie, poignant sight – one guide notes that on Ayia Yorgi Day families often pass by it, contemplating its faded grandeur. Photo enthusiasts should peek through the gates (when open), but be respectful and watch for signs of restoration.

Other Monasteries and Churches on the Island

Büyükada harbors a mini-ecumenical tour. In the valley between its two peaks sits the Ayios Nikolaos (St. Nicholas) Church and Convent, originally built in the 6th century. Today it is an Ottoman-era ruin housing the Princes’ Islands Museum, with Byzantine tiles visible inside. Near the dock stands the late 19th-century Hamidiye Mosque (built by Sultan Abdülhamid II) – a reminder that Islam and Christianity have shared space on this island. Further attractions include two small Greek chapels (Panagia and Hagios Demetrios) and the elegant San Pacifico (a Catholic Franciscan church with Baroque interior), and the Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Church. None of these require a long climb; they can be walked or bicycled to from the center. Architecture buffs enjoy how, within a few blocks, one can step from a gilded Catholic altar into an Orthodox basilica or a historic mosque, witnessing Istanbul’s plural heritage on Büyükada.

Exploring the Historic Ottoman-Era Mansions

If Aya Yorgi has given you a dose of spirituality, the island’s famous wooden mansions will delight the imagination. Lining many streets are pastel-painted yali houses and grand mansions built in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The Con Pasa Köşkü, Yelkencizade Mansion, and others are especially well-known. These multi-story wood houses often have wraparound porches and ornate fretwork. The island even has a “Historical Mansion Center” where you can learn more or arrange a tour. Many can be viewed from the street; a few operate as cafés or boutique hotels. Note that taking photos from a respectful distance is fine, but do not enter private gates without permission. A leisurely walk (or bike ride) through the island’s residential lanes feels like stepping back into late-Ottoman aristocratic life.

Beaches and Swimming Spots for a Post-Pilgrimage Dip

After climbing and praying, a swim can be very refreshing. Büyükada offers several family-friendly beaches. The best-known is Yörükali Beach on the eastern shore. It has a sandy shore, clear water, and a beachside café with umbrellas. Other small coves dot the eastern coastline; none are rocky nor very deep, making them safe for children. Popular times are late afternoon (when Aya Yorgi pilgrims might descend for sunset), but you will rarely have to queue like in Istanbul pools. Bring swimwear and a towel if weather permits; on a hot day the sea breeze will feel wonderful on tired pilgrims. One Turkish guidebook notes that “Büyükada offers the most beaches… of all the islands” – so it is indeed an unexpected bonus for an island known mainly for churches.

A Photographer’s Guide to Aya Yorgi and Büyükada

Best Vantage Points for Panoramic Island Views

The summit of Aya Yorgi itself is prime for panoramas. From the church courtyard or terrace, you can look out in all directions. Facing west, the camera captures the silhouette of Istanbul’s coastal tree line. Eastward, the Marmara Sea opens toward the Princes’ group. Many photographers also climb a short flight of stairs behind the church for an even higher view. Alternatively, stand on the deck of Yücetepe café; its raised platform yields a sweep of island rooflines with Aya Yorgi dome in the foreground. For sunset shots, a lookout point a few minutes’ walk northwest of the church (a small abandoned guard booth) is said to catch warm light behind the silhouette of Aya Nikola’s ruins. Finally, don’t neglect the ferry crossing: approaching Büyükada from Istanbul offers a wide-angle perspective of both ferry and island lit by morning or afternoon sun.

• Tip: The best overall light is often early morning (just after sunrise) or late afternoon. On festival days (April 23/Sept 24), the evening light can be beautiful as worshippers’ candles are lit. In high summer, midday glare on the water can be harsh; shooting toward the sun is avoided unless you want lens flare.

Capturing the Details: Icons, Candles, and Votive Offerings

Inside Aya Yorgi Church, there are rich subjects. The golden glow of lit candles and the colors of the icons make for compelling close-ups. Focus on the iconostasis carvings or the silver St. George icon. The flicker of a single prayer candle by a ribbon-covered wall can be very atmospheric. Outside, capture the tapestry of ribbons and strings along Azap Yokuşu. The contrast of the bright prayer ribbons against the dark pines is striking; try different depths of field. Portraits of pilgrims (ask permission) tying a knot or pausing in prayer can tell the human side of the story. Also photograph the bells and Eastern Orthodox crosses, which cast interesting shadows.

• Tip: The church interior is dim, so use a camera that handles low light well. Avoid using flash (it is jarring to worshippers and can disturb the icons). Increase ISO or use a small tripod if necessary for sharp images.

The Golden Hour: Best Times for Magical Lighting

As with many scenic spots, Aya Yorgi shines at dawn and dusk. If you visit early, the city in the distance will have the sunrise glow, and the soft light filters through the trees. Arriving at the end of the day means you may catch the sun dipping behind the horizon as you descend. The warm color of the light enhances the yellow stone and red roof tiles. Many photographers advise timing your climb to coincide with these hours if the pilgrimage schedule is flexible. Note that the candles in the church compound at twilight create a mystical ambiance, so a long exposure of the church at dusk (with people blurred or removed) can be very picturesque.

Respectful Photography Inside the Church

When photographing inside Aya Yorgi, always be respectful. Do not set up tripods during services, and keep voices low. Avoid using flashes or loud camera shutters that might interrupt someone’s prayer. It is generally fine to take pictures of the architecture and icons as long as you stand quietly. If you see clergy or monks, do ask permission before photographing them. Always turn off your flash and mode on silent. The best practice is to make one circuit of the interior shooting quickly but unobtrusively; spend the rest of your time absorbing the scene with your eyes.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is Aya Yorgi Church worth visiting?
For many visitors, Aya Yorgi is a highlight of their Istanbul trip. It is unique as one of Turkey’s two Christian pilgrimage shrines, offering both spiritual depth and island charm. Even casual tourists often find the experience moving: the combination of a gentle forest climb, panoramic views, and centuries-old church is unlike any urban attraction. News reports on pilgrimage days speak of “thousands” drawn by the church’s traditions, a testament to its enduring allure. If you appreciate history, architecture, or tranquil escapes, it is highly recommended. (On the other hand, if you dislike walking or crowds, you might prefer visiting on an off-peak weekday.)

Can you go inside the Church of St. George?
Yes. Aya Yorgi is an active place of worship that welcomes visitors. It is normally open daily to the public. According to local guides, the visiting hours are roughly 8:30 AM–4:00 PM on most days (on Sunday mornings the church may close around noon for services, resuming shortly afterward). Entrance is free. Inside, you are free to look around, light a candle, or speak with the monk if present. If a service is in progress, you may need to wait outside until it finishes, but clergy are usually happy to invite you in afterward.

What is the best time of year to visit Büyükada?
Climatically, the island is pleasant year-round (it snows very little). The busiest times are spring (April–June) and fall (September–October) for their moderate weather and festival crowds. For pilgrimage: plan for April 23 or September 24 if you want to witness or join the feast rituals. For light crowds and milder conditions, late spring and early autumn are ideal – the air is warm but not scorching. High summer (July–August) is hot and can be crowded on weekends, but beaches are most inviting then. Winter visits are peaceful and have the quietest trails, but the ferry schedule is reduced and some island businesses close. In short: spring and fall offer a good balance of accessibility and atmosphere.

How long does it take to see Aya Yorgi Church?
Seeing the church itself is quick – once at the top, spending 15–30 minutes inside is enough to admire the icons and pray. However, the overall trip (including getting to the hill and climbing) can easily take half a day. For example, factor 30–60 minutes for ferry transit (from Istanbul), plus 15–30 minutes from the Büyükada pier to the climb. Allow at least 30–40 minutes to walk or ride up Azap Yokuşu (longer if you stop to tie threads). Many people spend additional time exploring the courtyard, lighting candles, and enjoying the view. Overall, a comfortable visit often lasts 3–4 hours round-trip from Istanbul. Add extra time if you plan to dine at Yücetepe or tour the rest of Büyükada as well.

Are there restrooms and other facilities at the top?
There are no dedicated public restrooms in the Aya Yorgi compound. Pilgrims often use the facilities at the Yücetepe restaurant (they are generally open when the café is serving). Otherwise, go before you leave town or use the ferry restroom (which is small but functional). The café on the hill has drinks and snacks, so you can refresh there. There is seating in the courtyard for rest. Small shops and vendors at the church sell candles, icons, prayer ribbons, and souvenirs – bring some cash if you want to buy offerings. The on-site “shop” is informal: a monk or volunteer will help you with purchases.

Is the site accessible for people with mobility issues?
Regrettably, Aya Yorgi Church is not wheelchair-friendly. The steep, uneven climb is challenging even for fit hikers. The path (Azap Yokuşu) has many steps and rough terrain, and only the final approach to the church is paved. There is no vehicle access to the top and no ramps. For those who have difficulty walking, it would be very hard to reach the church. The only relatively accessible parts of the island are the roads by the shore (flat and paved). Even people with mild walking limitations should take care, and may prefer to remain in the nearby village and enjoy other island sights. If you have mobility concerns, consider visiting Aya Yorgi vicariously through travel reports, or see if a local guide can arrange minimal walking (but note the path itself is the main feature).