Kuzguncuk, a quarter of Üsküdar located on the Anatolian coast of the Bosphorus, embodies the elegance of a bygone era. This small but historically rich neighborhood, located between Üsküdar, Paşalimanı, and Beylerbeyi, extends down a valley leading to the Bosphorus creating a gorgeous environment. Its vivid history, cosmopolitan fabric, and architectural legacy make it one of Istanbul’s most fascinating neighborhoods.

Origins and Etymology

According to historical sources, Kuzguncuk was originally known as “Chrisokeramos,” which means “Golden Tile,” after a church built by Byzantine Emperor Justin II (r. 565–578) with a gilded tile roof. Another idea ties its name back to “Kosinitza,” which evolved into Kuzguncuk over time. Evliya Çelebi, a famous 17th-century explorer, attributed the district’s name to a saint known as “Kuzgun Baba,” who moved there during Mehmed II’s reign (1451-1481).

A Mosaic of Communities

Kuzguncuk is the first Jewish settlement on Istanbul’s Asian side. While the exact date of their presence is unknown, 17th-century records identify Kuzguncuk as a Jewish settlement. By 1914, the area had a diverse population, including 70 Muslim, 250 Greek, 1,600 Armenian, and 400 Jewish houses, as well as a small foreign community. By 1933, there were 4,000 people, with Jews making up the majority, followed by Greeks, Turks, and Armenians.

Today, Kuzguncuk’s demographic landscape has transformed, with once-thriving minority populations almost gone. The sale and renovation of historic residences has altered the exterior and interior features of numerous structures. Despite these changes, Kuzguncuk preserves some of its original Bosphorus village charm.

The ‘Last Stop’ Before the Holy Land

For centuries, Kuzguncuk held great significance for European Jews, who saw it as their penultimate halt before reaching the Holy Land. Those who were unable to travel further typically stayed in Kuzguncuk, expecting to spend their final days there and be buried at the town’s Jewish cemetery, which has been a major landmark since the 17th century. Greeks also lived in the neighborhood throughout these times, while Armenians arrived in the 18th century, creating a significant presence by the 19th century.

An Ottoman and Muslim Contrast

Unlike adjacent Ottoman districts, Kuzguncuk was largely a non-Muslim community. In contrast, the adjoining Öküz Limanı (Paşalimanı) district, with its mosque, fountain, and boat dock, was entirely Turkish. The name Öküz Limanı, which means “Oxen Port,” possibly originates from the transfer of cattle from Rumelia to Anatolia via Beşiktaş. Alternatively, it could refer to the ancient Greek name for the Bosphorus—Bosphorosus, or “Cow Pass.”

Mythological Significance of the Bosphorus

According to Greek mythology, the Bosphorus is associated with the legend of Io, daughter of the river deity Inachus. Zeus, infatuated with Io, changed her into a cow to protect her from Hera’s jealousy. Hera, not tricked, entrusted Io to Argos Panoptis, a monster with a hundred eyes. Zeus later dispatched Hermes to lull Argos to sleep before killing him. As retaliation, Hera sent a gadfly to torture Io, forcing her into exile. While fleeing, Io crossed the Bosphorus and met Prometheus, who predicted her return to human form and the birth of Heracles through her bloodline.

Festivities and Cultural Traditions

Kuzguncuk celebrates its collective spirit through annual festivals, including the Hıdırellez celebrations hosted at Kuzguncuk Garden, a historically significant place. This urban oasis serves as a gathering spot for people, instilling a sense of community among them.

İsmet Baba Meyhanesi, founded in 1951, is a recognized institution that represents Kuzguncuk’s cultural history. It has attracted prominent figures such as poet Can Yücel, as well as artists and intellectuals.

Maritime Legacy and Transportation

The Şirket-i Hayriye ferries, introduced in the late 19th century, had a huge impact on Kuzguncuk’s connectivity. A disastrous fire in 1865-1866 prompted the construction of a new pier, thereby improving maritime transportation. Ferry services connect Kuzguncuk to several Bosphorus areas, notably Çengelköy and Kabataş.

Architectural Heritage

Kuzguncuk’s architectural environment reflects its non-Muslim background, with only two mosques: the Üryanizade Mosque from the late nineteenth century and the Yeni Mosque from 1952. The Üryanizade Mosque, erected by Sheikh-ul-Islam Uryanizade Ahmed Esad Efendi during Abdulhamid II’s reign, is notable for its elaborate wooden minaret, which is unusual in Istanbul.

Among the district’s greatest waterfront homes, the Fethi Ahmed Pasha Mansion is a testimony to Ottoman magnificence. The home, once owned by a high-ranking official under Mahmud II and Abdulmecid, has a harem and selamlık part, as well as a surrounding grove of pine, plane, and fir trees, which is now a protected public space.

A Cinematic Backdrop

Kuzguncuk’s timeless streets, adorned with cobblestone walks, old mansions, and religious structures, provide an ideal film location. Since the 1980s, the area has hosted a number of television shows and commercials, beginning with the popular Perihan Abla. However, neighbors frequently voice dissatisfaction with the disturbances caused by regular filming.

Getting to Kuzguncuk

Visitors can visit Kuzguncuk via Üsküdar, which is accessible by several routes. From Anatolian side, the Marmaray line from Kadıköy reaches Üsküdar in one stop, with buses and minibuses providing additional choices. To reach Üsküdar from Europe, take the Yenikapı-Sirkeci Marmaray line or a metrobus to the Boğaziçi stop, then transfer to a bus. Kuzguncuk is only a 15-minute walk or a brief minibus ride away.

Exploring Kuzguncuk

Kuzguncuk offers an array of historical and cultural landmarks:

• Kuzguncuk Beach: A serene promenade with Bosphorus views, lined with cafés and restaurants.
• Perihan Abla Street: A nostalgic alleyway famed for its colorful houses and association with the iconic TV series.
• Marko Pasha Mansion: An architectural marvel that once served as the backdrop for Hayat Bilgisi.
• Kuzguncuk Park: A verdant retreat perfect for families and leisurely strolls.
• Kuzguncuk Garden: A community-run agricultural space sustaining a centuries-old tradition.
• Aya Panteleymon Church: A Greek Orthodox landmark housing sacred springs.
• Simitçi Tahir Street: A narrow, picturesque street showcasing Kuzguncuk’s wooden houses.