Situated on a windswept plateau near Turkey’s border with Armenia, Ani today lies silent and magnificent amid ruins and wild grasses. Rising abruptly from the Arpaçay gorge, this legendary medieval capital was long known as “the City of 1001 Churches,” a nickname reflecting its once prodigious number of religious buildings. In reality, scholars today count on the order of dozens of churches and chapels (some 50 standing churches and many rock-carved chapels). Centuries ago Ani’s steep walls, forests of khachkars (Armenian cross-stones) and soaring domes would have thronged with life; now it is a “ghost city,” its splendor faded by invaders and earthquakes. In this comprehensive guide we will traverse Ani’s history and architecture in depth, explain how and when to visit, and offer practical advice for travelers. By the end the reader will not only understand Ani’s rise and fall, but feel confident and informed about planning a trip to this unforgettable site.

Ani’s name still calls to mind an era when it was a thriving capital. Between AD 961 and 1045, it was the seat of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom and at its height rivaled the great cities of the Middle East. Today’s ruins consist of dozens of churches, mosques, palaces, baths and fortifications, spanning several centuries of history. The site was relatively unknown outside scholarly circles until recent decades, but it has now been added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and is emerging as a symbol of the region’s rich heritage. Our narrative will weave together Ani’s factual history – who built what and when – with vivid description of the stones and frescoes still visible today. The writing aims to inform the cultural traveler as much as the historian, offering a balanced view that is neither romantic hyperbole nor dry abstraction. Throughout, authoritative sources and expert analyses are cited, providing depth and context.

In the spirit of full objectivity, we let Ani speak for itself. This is not a sales pitch but a journalist-historian’s examination: we note Ani’s remarkable engineering, its international ties (on the Silk Road, under Armenian, Georgian, Seljuk, Byzantine influence), and its poignant decline. Simultaneously, we provide all practical details needed: how to get to Ani in 2025, where to stay in nearby Kars, what to pack and how to make the most of a visit. The goal is an integrated and comprehensive portrait: Ani’s stones and relics on one hand, its people and politics on the other. By the end, readers will appreciate Ani’s extraordinary architecture and multi-cultural legacy, and have every fact they need to plan their own exploration.

An Introduction to Ani: The Soul of an Ancient Kingdom on the Edge of Turkey

Perched on a triangular promontory high above a steep gorge, Ani’s ruins evoke both grandeur and silence. Vast stretches of broken masonry, interrupted by towers and domes, stretch toward the horizon. The Akhurian River (Arpaçay) cuts a sheer ravine along one side, marking the Turkey–Armenia border. In person one notices the stark light and clean air of this high plateau (over 1,340 m elevation). There are no sounds of modern traffic; only the wind rushing through empty churches and the distant lowing of cattle. The abandoned walls and crumbling chapels stand on guard over this desolate beauty. Yet with each carved capital or fragment of fresco one can sense that Ani was once bustling and opulent – a thriving metropolis at the crossroads of empires.

It was here, around the 5th century AD, that Armenian historians first mention a fortress-city of Ani, held by the noble Kamsarakan family. Excavations have since shown that the Ani site had been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age, evolving from a hilltop stronghold into a full-fledged city by the medieval period. But Ani’s most famous chapters began when King Ashot III of Armenia (r. 953–977) chose this remote but defensible hilltop as his new capital in 961. From that point for a few generations Ani became the seat of kings and a hub of commerce on the Silk Road. Stone masons and carpenters erected grand churches, palaces and walls of unrivaled skill. Scholars have noted that a famous cathedral built here under Ashot’s successors even influenced early Gothic architecture in Europe. By the late 10th century, Ani had earned its famous sobriquet. Travelers began calling it the “City of 1,001 Churches” – a legendary number meant to convey “countless” rather than literally one thousand and one. In fact, archaeologists today have excavated about 50 churches, plus dozens of chapels carved into the rocks. In its day the city’s skyline must have bristled with domes and cross-crowned towers.

That prodigious display of faith was also evidence of Ani’s wealth and cultural depth. Centuries of Armenian Apostolic church patronage yielded scores of basilicas and rotundas. But Ani was also multi-confessional. Over time one finds evidence of small Georgian Orthodox and Byzantine congregations, as well as later Islamic architecture (a Seljuk mosque, an Ottoman bath). Modern scholar analyses emphasize how Ani’s architecture blended these traditions: UNESCO notes that its buildings show “religious monuments of Zoroastrian, Christian and Muslim influence”. Even the artistry of Ani’s ruined walls hints at cultural mingling – architectural historians see echoes of Persian, Byzantine, Georgian and Seljuk work in different corners of the ruins.

Ani was also in the thick of medieval geopolitics. It lay near the junction of Armenia, Georgia, and the Turkish steppes. In 1045 – after Ani’s last Bagratid king died – Byzantium annexed the city. Only 19 years later the Seljuk Turks under Alp Arslan stormed it in 1064. Ani thus changed hands repeatedly: Georgian kings held it in the 12th–13th centuries; Muslim dynasts (the Kurdish Shaddadids and later Turkish beyliks) ruled after the 11th century. Despite the turmoil, Ani’s monuments continued to rise: its great churches of St. Gregory and the Holy Apostles were built in the 11th–13th centuries. King Gagik II of Armenia and later Queen Tamar of Georgia both invested in Ani’s defenses and churches. But the tide soon turned. In 1236 the Mongol army captured Ani and “slaughtered large numbers of its population”. Ani never regained its former glory. A great earthquake in 1319 wrecked numerous buildings and hastened the city’s decline. Trade routes shifted away and the townsfolk drifted to safer lands. By the late 17th or early 18th century Ani had become essentially a ghost: its churches unmanned, its stones pickaxed for other villages. As late scholar Razmik Panossian writes, Ani today is “one of the most visible and ‘tangible’ symbols of past Armenian greatness” – but that heritage is rendered in stone and silence.

This article will reconstruct all those eras in detail. We begin with Ani’s early days and golden age, then review each invasion and rebuilding. Along the way we will always connect the historical narrative to what remains on the ground today. Architectural details – like the ribbed dome of the Cathedral or the frescoes of Honents church – will be described as witnesses to Ani’s saga. In short, we will walk through Ani’s story arch by arch, vault by vault, putting each ruin into its historical moment.

The Unforgettable History of Ani: From Royal Capital to Ghost City

Ani’s history can be told as a sequence of rising and falling chapters. Below we outline the main phases in chronological order, with an eye to answering the common questions: who built Ani, why was it famous, and what led to its ruin? Each sub-section will be a mini-narrative anchored by key facts and sources.

The Origins of Ani: Before the Golden Age

Archaeological evidence and medieval chronicles agree that Ani’s story began long before King Ashot III made it capital. Atop the high plateau, near the confluence of two rivers, lay a natural fortress. According to 5th-century Armenian historians (Yeghishe and Ghazar Parpetsi), Ani was by that time already a “strong fortress built on a hilltop,” belonging to the Armenian noble house of Kamsarakan. In other words, long before Bagratid kings, Ani was a provincial seat of power. Coins and pottery found in recent digs confirm the site was occupied even in the Bronze Age. One may imagine a wooden palisade or small stone walls guarding a citadel.

By the early Middle Ages, Ani had evolved from merely a fortress into a modest town, still within the orbit of Armenia’s ruling dynasties. When the Bagratid princes rose to prominence in the 9th–10th centuries, Ani lay within their domain (in a region called Shirak or Arsharunik). But Kars – another fortified city nearby – was then the capital of that Armenian kingdom. Ani remained a stronghold of the Kamsarakan lords into the 9th century. Its citadel hill (known historically as Midjnaberd) was enlarged and walled around this time, and a palace built by the Kamsarakans themselves.

The first hints of Ani’s future importance come when Bagratid kings consolidated power. In 961, King Ashot III (the “Merciful”) made a bold decision: he moved Armenia’s capital from Kars to Ani. Ashot recognized Ani’s natural defenses – the deep gorge on one side and a broad valley on the others – made it nearly impregnable. He assembled new palaces and rebuilt the walls on the hilltop. (Contemporary accounts stress that these fortifications were among the strongest of their time.) The king also secured the prestige of Ani by relocating the Armenian Catholicos, the head of the national church, into the city. From this point Ani’s transformation truly began. Over the next 15 years Ashot III and his successors constructed a string of important buildings: multiple churches, royal residences, and the twin stone walls which still define the city’s silhouette. By the end of the 10th century Ani had become a planned medieval capital, laid out in a rough grid and bristling with new architecture.

The Golden Age: Capital of the Bagratid Armenian Kingdom (961–1045 AD)

Ani’s greatest period was the last decades of the 10th century. Under King Smbat II (r. 977–989), son of Ashot III, the city’s defenses and infrastructure reached their zenith. Chronicles note that Smbat fortified the entire city with massive stone walls: on the north side especially he built two concentric walls with high towers. Medieval inscriptions credit Smbat with this extraordinary defensive ring. For centuries after, travelers would enter Ani through the Lion Gate, the Kars Gate or the Chequer-Board Gate (named for its red-and-black stone pattern) – all part of Smbat’s walls. Even today the thick walls and the remnants of the Lion Gate arch survive as the first welcome to visitors.

Inside those walls, Ani blossomed as a bustling city. The Catholicos’s new palace and the inner sanctum of the Armenian Church brought clerical and political elites to Ani. Armenian sources suggest Ani’s population at its peak may have reached into the tens of thousands; some traditional estimates even say 100,000, although modern historians debate that figure. What is certain is that Ani was a vibrant market town. Its streets would have been filled with merchants from Persia, Byzantium and Central Asia. Silk, spices, textiles and sheep’s wool passed through here on the legendary Silk Road. Ani even minted its own coins, affirming its status as the kingdom’s commercial center.

The patronage of Smbat’s court and the church meant new constructions beyond walls. Contemporary chronicles name Ani’s buildings in a litany of marvels. The Cathedral of Ani (Surp Asdvadzadzin), completed in 1001, stands out. Designed by the chief architect Trdat (the same master who later rebuilt Hagia Sophia’s dome in Constantinople), the cathedral was a cutting-edge edifice. Its cross-domed plan and massive stone vaults were feats of engineering; indeed, scholars note its ribbed vaulting did not appear in Europe until two centuries later. Walk among its fallen columns today and one can imagine the golden mosaics that might once have glittered there. Anatolian mythology was also honored with a grand fire temple and smaller chapels, evidence of pre-Christian traditions lingering in the Caucasus.

Culturally, Ani’s golden age also saw a flowering of arts and letters. The Bagratid kings and wealthy merchants sponsored manuscript illumination workshops and carved inscriptions. Armenian historians penned chronicles extolling the city’s beauty and size. Churches built in this era – whether surviving or in ruin today – were heavily decorated. For example, the later St. Gregory of Tigran Honents (built in 1215 by a merchant of that name) is famed for its elaborate carvings and rare frescoes that cover entire walls; those fresco cycles depict scenes from the life of St. Gregory and Christ. (Scholars believe Georgian artists painted them, a testament to Ani’s cross-cultural ties.) Another crowning ornament was the Church of the Holy Apostles, begun in the early 11th century to serve as a grand cathedral of the city’s Catholicos (an archbishop’s church with multiple shrines around it). The Holy Apostles’ compound, now mostly ruins, once included chapels and tombs for Armenian archbishops.

Kings Gagik I (989–1020) and Gagik II (1042–1045), brothers of Smbat II, continued investing in Ani. Gagik I added even more churches, including one modeled on the great Zvartnots Cathedral in present-day Armenia – in fact the partially-excavated foundations of King Gagik’s Church (c.1001–1005) mimic Zvartnots’ circular-quatrefoil plan. Under their reign the city gleamed with white limestone, pink porphyry and black basalt set in intricate patterns – the very blocks of stone one still steps on at the site. By the 1020s Ani’s citadel alone had temples, reservoirs, and a royal palace – and over 200 churches and chapels had been recorded within the greater city. In short, Ani in the late 10th–early 11th century was one of the most lavishly endowed cities of medieval Eurasia.

Who Built Ani? The Vision of Kings and Architects

When considering Ani’s monuments, three figures stand above the rest: King Ashot III, King Smbat II, and Trdat the Architect. We have mentioned Ashot III’s founding role and Smbat II’s walls. It is worth pausing to emphasize how these individuals set Ani’s character. Ashot III (r.953–977) initiated the city’s plan: he built the earliest cathedral and palace complexes. Smbat II (977–989) is often called Ani’s true builder-king, since he oversaw the city’s largest expansion, particularly the defensive walls. Noble patrons like Prince Ablgharib Pahlavid and the merchant Tigran Honents later left their names on churches built in the 11th–13th centuries.

The most famous architect in Ani’s history is Trdat (circa 940–1020), often known as “Trdat the Architect.” He was head architect to the Bagratid kings of Armenia and was responsible for some of Ani’s key structures. According to his biography, Trdat was working in Ani when King Ashot III made it the capital. Around 987 Trdat completed the Mother Cathedral of Ani (the grand domed church discussed above) under King Smbat II. His design – a domed basilica with cruciform plan – became a hallmark of what archaeologists later called the “Ani school” of Armenian architecture. Trdat’s work on Ani left a mark far beyond Armenia: he went on to restore Constantinople’s Hagia Sophia dome in 989, and through his innovations Ani’s cathedral likely influenced European church builders centuries later. In short, Trdat’s genius turned Ani’s visions into stone.

Ani’s story is thus one of visionary patronage: kings commissioning architects, merchants funding churches, and clergy endorsing art. Each major monument in Ani can be traced to a who – often an inscription names the patron. For example, the exquisitely preserved Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents (1215) literally bears Honents’ name and testament (a long Armenian inscription) praising the structure. As we tour the site below, take note: columns, carvings and inscriptions often still echo the names of these medieval patrons and builders.

A City of Faith: Why is Ani Called the “City of 1001 Churches”?

No treatment of Ani would be complete without addressing the famous nickname. Why was Ani said to have a thousand churches? The answer lies in medieval hyperbole and tourism lore. The phrase “City of 1001 Churches” is meant metaphorically – to highlight that Ani was incredibly rich in sacred architecture. In truth, excavations have documented roughly 50 major churches and dozens of smaller chapels and cave shrines at Ani. Thus the moniker is not a literal count but a badge of its religious prominence.

What sorts of holy places filled Ani? Primarily Armenian Apostolic churches, of every size. These ranged from enormous basilicas (like the Cathedral or Holy Apostles) to modest family chapels (like the Pahlavuni chapel) and even single-arch memorial shrines. They were typically built of pale limestone or orange brick, often with cross-stone reliefs (khachkars) surrounding them. Among these churches one finds examples from every century of Ani’s occupation: from small 6th–7th century churches in the citadel (the so-called “church of the palace,” the city’s oldest, built during the Kamsarakan era) up through impressive 13th-century constructions like the St. Gregory of Tigran Honents church.

The record of 1001 churches is, by legend, a tribute to Ani’s medieval cultural vitality. As one scholar put it, Ani “bears exceptional testimony” to medieval Armenian urban and religious life. Its array of building styles (inscribed crosses, pointed domes, blind arcades, etc.) shows a city teeming with religious expression. In one place, UNESCO noted Ani’s “wide panorama of medieval architectural development”. That richness is exactly why countless travelers and poets (Turkish, Armenian, European alike) have repeated the image of over a thousand churches. It is worth remembering that even in the 17th century, long after most inhabitants had gone, Armenian tradition held Ani in reverence. The poet Yeghishe famously wrote, “Let me see Ani, and then I can die,” reflecting how central its churches were to national identity.

Today, only a few dozen chapels and churches still stand in recognizable form – from the tall cylinders of Manuchihr Mosque’s minaret to the roofless shells of basilicas – but enough remains that walking through Ani still feels like wandering a vast open-air cathedral.

The Period of Invasions and Decline

Ani’s golden age could not last indefinitely. In historical hindsight, its demise began in the mid-11th century with the Byzantine and Seljuk conquests. In 1045, with the last Bagratid king dead and no strong heir, Ani peacefully surrendered to the Byzantine Empire. The city continued to function as an episcopal see, but it was no longer an independent capital. Then in 1064 the Seljuk Turks under Sultan Alp Arslan launched a major assault. Contemporary sources record that after a 25-day siege, Alp Arslan’s forces stormed Ani and “slaughtered its population” in a brutal sack. The city was taken – and retaken – several times in the next centuries by various Turkish rulers, but Ani never regained its sovereignty.

In 1072 Ani was sold by the Seljuks to the Shaddadid dynasty, a Kurdish Muslim line that ruled it for decades. The Shaddadids were unusually tolerant of the local Christian populace (some rulers even married into Armenian nobility). Many of Ani’s Armenian inhabitants remained and continued church-building; indeed, the Zakarean (“Zakarid”) princes of Georgia assumed control in the 12th century and then restored Ani’s defenses and sponsored new churches. But each wave of conquest caused damage. When Georgia’s Queen Tamar seized Ani in 1199, she installed Bagratid princes as governors, yet even that chapter ended with Mongol conquest.

In 1236 the city’s misfortune reached a peak: the Mongol Empire of Genghis Khan had splintered into successor khanates, and one of their armies descended on Armenia. Ani was besieged and taken; chronicles say it was “sacked and large numbers of its population massacred”. The Mongols installed new overlords (the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum nominally, then local Turkoman warlords), but Ani would never recover its prestige.

Matters grew worse in 1319, when a massive earthquake struck the region. Medieval reports and modern analysis agree that “the beginning of [Ani’s] decline” occurred with that quake. The tremor collapsed walls and domes; many buildings already weakened by centuries of neglect fell. It is said that the lofty dome of the Cathedral cracked, and that select churches were either ruined or abandoned after the shock. After the earthquake, surviving political authority at Ani dwindled; local rulers either moved their capitals elsewhere or lost power altogether.

Beyond these disasters, a slow change of trade routes sealed Ani’s fate. As the 13th and 14th centuries progressed, caravans increasingly bypassed Ani in favor of more southerly routes toward Tabriz or inland Anatolia. With commerce gone, what remained were only a few aristocrats and clergy. In 1441 the Armenian Catholicosate finally moved to Etchmiadzin (in what is now Armenia), severing Ani’s last ecclesiastical link. Over the next century the region fell under Persian then Ottoman rule. (Ani found itself on the Ottoman-Safavid frontier after 1579, but by then it was more a strategic outpost than a vibrant city.)

By the mid-17th century only a handful of monasteries were inhabited. The last monks seem to have left around 1735. Thereafter Ani was effectively abandoned – a “ghost city” as modern writers describe it. In a UNESCO review: “the Mongol invasion, followed by a devastating earthquake in 1319 and a change in trade routes, marked the beginning of the city’s decline. It was all but abandoned by the 18th century”. Indeed, when Western travelers first came upon Ani in the 19th century, they found shepherds grazing in empty courtyards and stones pilfered for local farms. The proud capital of Armenia had been reduced, over the course of eight centuries, to silence and stone.

Why Was Ani Abandoned? The Final Chapters of a Great City

In summary, Ani’s desertion resulted from a cascade of misfortunes. Military conquest and massacre thinned its population. Natural disasters — two particularly severe earthquakes (1319 and another in the late 14th century) — physically destroyed many structures. Economic shifts deprived Ani of its raison d’être as a trade hub. And the religious reordering of the region (notably the relocation of the Armenian Patriarchate) stripped Ani of its spiritual centrality.

It was not any single cause but the accumulation of all these factors that turned Ani from a living capital into a memory. By the Ottoman era Ani’s monuments were empty shells. As one 20th-century historian noted, Ani “never recovered from [the 1319] earthquake” and its subsequent isolation. For centuries artists and pilgrims would stand on the plateau and gaze at Ani’s skyline of broken arches and vacant bell towers. Some lamented that even quarry blasts from Armenia were damaging the monuments, suggesting that neglect and cultural conflict continued to plague Ani well into modern times.

Still, the story did not end in neglect. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, growing interest in antiquities led to archaeological studies (notably by the Russian architect Nikolai Marr) and a few conservation efforts. Today Ani is recognized internationally as a cultural treasure that “needs to be protected” regardless of politics. Its abandonment, while tragic, has ironically preserved a remarkably intact outline of the medieval city for us to study.

In the next section we will leave the historical narrative and turn to geography: exactly where is Ani today, and how does its borderland location affect travelers?

Where is Ani? Unraveling the Geopolitical Significance of a Border City

One of the most frequently asked questions is: “Is Ani in Armenia or Turkey?” The short answer is that Ani’s ruins lie well within modern Turkey. Administratively, the site is in Turkey’s Kars Province. If you look at a map, Ani sits about 42 kilometers north of the city of Kars. Yet politically it is also a stone’s throw from Armenia: the Akhurian (Arpaçay) River forms the borderline, only a few hundred meters beyond the western walls. Indeed, from many viewpoints in Ani one can see over the river into Armenian territory. The closest Armenian village to Ani is Kharkov (Shirak Province), on the other side of the gorge.

Historically, Ani’s borderland location made it a fault line of empires. In medieval times Ani was in “Greater Armenia,” a core Armenian region. Over the centuries the Ottomans to the west and the Safavid/Persians to the east contested control of Eastern Armenia. After World War I and the collapse of empires, the region’s fate was finally sealed by the Treaty of Kars (1921). That treaty between Turkey and the Soviet republics fixed the modern border, placing Ani on the Turkish side. (Armenian delegations had protested – Ani was an important Armenian cultural site – but ultimately Ankara’s claims prevailed.)

For the 20th-century traveler, the key point is that Ani is entirely in Turkey. It stands in a zone that was once a Soviet–Turkish frontier during the Cold War. As late as the 1990s one even needed a special government permit to enter (Turkish officials controlled the border strictly). Now that the Cold War is over, the restrictions have eased dramatically. Modern guidebooks report that no special permit is needed – one simply goes to the Ani site and buys a ticket. However, visitors should carry their passport, as police on site usually check IDs. (Until about 2004, photography was even banned; today photographers roam freely, though one article noted the Turkish Archaeological Museum monitors movements.)

One should be mindful that this is a military border region. Infantry patrols and lookout posts still stand near Ani’s edges. On the Armenian side, the village of Kharkov (and a newer outpost at Haykadzor) command views into the valley, but they are off-limits. Anecdotally, some travelers have reported an Armenian observation point where visitors can glimpse Ani from a distance, but in practice it is covered by armed guards. In any case, Armenian permits would be needed to approach from that side, and the road from Armenia into Turkey at that point is not open to tourists.

For practical purposes: Ani is in Turkey, in an area visited through Turkey. Getting a visa (if required for your nationality) and heading for Kars is the plan. Once in Kars, visitors take local transport north to the Ani site. The former border posts themselves are now defunct; the boundary is marked only by fences and signs. In sum, Ani has become a center of cultural tourism on the Turkish side, though it remains a poignant symbol of Armenian heritage as well. As a UNESCO report observed, Ani has transformed from “a seat of conflict” to a bridge of understanding and exchange – its location is indeed on a fault line of modern history, but it now attracts admirers from both sides of the divide.

Your Complete 2025 Visitor’s Guide to the Ani Archaeological Site

Ani is open to visitors in 2025, and with planning one can easily incorporate it into a trip in eastern Turkey. This section provides all the logistical details needed: how to get there, hours and fees, what to expect and when to go.

Can You Visit Ani Today? Yes, and Here’s How.

The short answer is that Ani can be visited by anyone willing to travel to Kars and the border. Since 2004 Turkey has dropped its requirement for special entry permits to Ani. In practical terms, one needs only to buy an admission ticket (or present a valid Turkish Museum Pass) at the site entrance. Foreign travelers should carry their passport, but no advance application is needed (unlike during the Cold War era when Ani was behind a tight military cordon).

Ani was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016, and is maintained by Turkey’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism. As of 2025, the official entrance fee is on the order of 310 Turkish Lira (around 8 EUR) per person. Payment is in cash (Turkish Lira); credit cards are not accepted at the entrance. (Do note: if you have the Türkiye Museum Pass (“Müzekart” from the government) for archaeological sites, Ani is included – you can enter free with that.) Tickets are available on the spot; there is no need to book ahead.

Facilities are basic but adequate. Near the entrance you will find a small ticket office, a rest area with a few benches, a snack kiosk/café and basic restrooms. There is also a small souvenir shop selling postcards, guidebooks and local crafts. Inside the park, there are no vendors except at the entrance area, so bring your own water and snacks. For most visitors, 3–4 hours is a good minimum to see the highlights; some guided tours spend about that long on site. In fact, travel blogs report that a half-day (3–4 hours) exploring Ani’s loop road and main monuments “really worked out to be the perfect amount of time”. Enthusiasts could linger longer for photography and detailed reading of plaques. But very few people – including tour groups – spend more than a day at Ani. Unlike major museums, Ani rarely has long queues or crowds; even in high season one can enjoy relative solitude among the ruins.

Getting to Ani: A Step-by-Step Transportation Guide

Flying into Kars (KSY): The Gateway to Ani

Most international visitors will first fly to Istanbul or Ankara, then connect to Kars Harakani Airport (KSY) in northeastern Turkey. Turkish Airlines operates several daily flights from Istanbul (including both Istanbul Airport and Sabiha Gökçen) to Kars, as does Pegasus Airlines. In total there are about 4–5 nonstop flights per day between Istanbul and Kars, concentrated in the morning hours (for example, roughly between 7:00 am and 12:35 pm). Flight time is about 2 hours. Fares vary widely by season, but a one-way ticket is often in the range of $50–100 USD if booked in advance.

There is also typically one daily flight from Ankara (Esenboğa) to Kars, departing mid-morning and arriving about 1.5 hours later. If you are coming from eastern Turkey (Erzurum, Van, etc.), check if a local flight via Ankara or Istanbul is more convenient than a long bus.

Upon arriving at Kars Airport, you have two main options to reach downtown Kars (approximately 4 km away): a shuttle minibus or a taxi. The city-run minibus waits outside the terminal about 25 minutes after each commercial flight lands. The ride to Kars center takes roughly 15–20 minutes and costs only a few Turkish Lira (around 3 TRY). Alternatively, taxis stand by 24/7; the journey costs about 35 TRY. (If you have a lot of luggage or arrive very late, a taxi may be more comfortable – just make sure it uses the meter or agree on ~35–40 TRY beforehand.)

For those not flying, Kars is also reachable by train and long-distance bus from various Turkish cities. There is a daily overnight train from Ankara (about 16–18 hours) and many daytime/evening buses from Ankara, Erzurum, and Istanbul (typically 15–20 hours from Ankara or 24–30 from Istanbul). However, given Ani’s remote location, flying is the most time-efficient.

The Kars to Ani Bus: The Budget-Friendly Option

From central Kars, visiting Ani is surprisingly simple by public bus. One of the best ways is via the shuttle vans that run a fixed route Kars–Ani–Kars each morning. In the summer tourist season, there are two departures daily from Kars, while in winter there is usually one early bus. The van departs at roughly 9:00 am (from a known spot by the old Antik/Kaleieuva Cafe on the eastern side of Kars) and returns from Ani around 11:30 am. A second trip runs in the early afternoon (e.g. depart 1:00 pm, return 3:30 pm). The journey each way is about 45 minutes, covering the ~50 km distance on a highway through open plains. Round-trip tickets on this shuttle are very cheap – on the order of 100–200 TRY total per person (around €3 or so).

In practice, most independent travelers take the morning bus out and either ride the afternoon bus back or hire a taxi back if it’s missed. (Tip: when the bus drops you at Ani, confirm with the driver your return plan.) If you visit in winter, note that the schedule may reduce to a single daily bus: for example, a 9:00 am Kars departure with a return by 12:45 pm. On weekends or during off-season it’s wise to verify times in advance with your hotel or a local travel desk, since schedules can change with demand.

Taxi or Private Tour: Comfort and Flexibility

For groups, families or those wanting more flexibility, taxis and private tours are a good option. A taxi from Kars to Ani and back (with about 3 hours waiting time at the site) costs roughly 150–200 TRY per car. You can negotiate this rate at your hotel or simply hail a taxi in Kars. Private car/van rentals (with driver) are also available through local agencies. The advantage is that you control your schedule: for instance, you could arrive at Ani right at opening to catch morning light, or even combine Ani with stops in nearby Ocaklı or Çengilli (small historic villages on the way).

Another popular choice is a guided day tour. Local guides in Kars (notably a famous guide named Celil) will pick you up around 9–10 am and drive you to Ani, spend about 3 hours there, and return to Kars. A private guided excursion typically costs on the order of 60 TRY per person (inclusive of transport). These tours often include commentary along the way. Booking a tour can be convenient if you prefer someone else to handle logistics, though with the straightforward bus schedule and well-marked site signs, many travelers manage fine on their own.

Driving to Ani: Car Rentals and Road Conditions

Alternatively, adventurous visitors may rent a car. In summer months the road (D955 highway) from Kars to Ani is paved and in good condition, and it passes through scenic steppe and farmland. The drive is about 50 km and takes roughly 1–1.5 hours. Car rental companies (Avis, Europcar, etc.) operate in Kars. Having your own car allows stops at nearby attractions (the fortified Ani castle in Ocaklı, or the medieval bridge ruins by Karakilise), but note that parking at Ani’s entrance is minimal. In winter the road can be icy or snow-covered (Kars gets heavy snow), so only attempt self-driving if you are comfortable with winter conditions and have a suitable vehicle. Always check weather reports for Kars and Ani before setting out.

Essential Information for Your Visit

Before you step onto Ani’s soil, here are the crucial facts and recommendations:

• Entrance Fee (2025): Approximately 8 EUR per person (about 310 Turkish Lira). (Free admission if you hold a valid Turkish Museum Pass.)
• Hours of Operation: The site is typically open year-round. In summer (May–September) the gates are open roughly 9:00 AM–7:00 PM; in winter 9:00 AM–5:00 PM. Times may vary slightly on holidays or low-season. There is usually a short winter break around January for heavy snows, when the site may close for a few weeks. Check locally if traveling in deep winter.
• How Long to Explore Ani: Plan for at least 3 hours to see the main monuments. For a leisurely pace, half a day (4–5 hours) is better. Many independent travelers report that 2½–3 hours felt like the bare minimum, while history buffs can easily spend a whole day (8+ hours) if they linger for photographs and detailed reading. (If you are on the group bus schedule, your time is fixed – generally just under 3 hours.)
• Facilities at the Site: As noted, there are toilets and a small cafe near the entrance. There is no lodging at the site. There is a simple rest shelter and picnic tables if you bring food. A small brick-and-tile exhibition hall by the ticket booth displays some artifacts and has a display about Ani’s history (though the text is often only in Turkish). A handful of informational plaques in English and Turkish explain major ruins.
• Safety and Regulations: Ani is an open archaeological park, and visitors roam freely among the ruins. (However, climbing on the fragile stones is prohibited by law.) No significant safety hazards exist, but wear good shoes as terrain is uneven and many steps are steep. The winds atop the plateau can be strong in summer afternoon, and bitterly cold in winter, so dress in layers. Wildlife is limited (occasional steppe birds), so no worries there, but do beware of getting lost if you stray off paths. In short, common-sense caution with modest gear is all that’s needed.

When to Go: The Best Time of Year to Visit Ani

Ani can be visited almost any month, but seasonal conditions vary greatly on the Anatolian plateau:

• Summer (June–August):
  • Advantages: Long daylight hours for exploring; the surrounding fields and hillsides are lush and green from spring rains. Wildflowers dot the landscape in June–July. The weather is mostly dry.
  • Disadvantages: Very hot midday sun with little shade – temperatures often exceed 30°C. The plateau’s exposure means intense sun; bring a hat and sunscreen. This is also peak tourist season, so while Ani is never crowded, the relative quiet of other seasons is lost. Some travelers find midday heat oppressive.
  • Tip: Visit early morning or late afternoon in summer to avoid the worst heat, and enjoy golden-hour light on the ruins.
• Spring & Autumn (April–May, September–October):
  • Advantages: Arguably the ideal times to visit Ani. Temperatures are mild and pleasant (daytime 15–25°C), with cool mornings. The site is exceptionally photogenic: in spring Ani’s greening hills provide a colorful backdrop, and in autumn the grasses turn gold. These months also have fewer visitors (shoulder season), so the site feels even more tranquil. For hiking lovers, the entire region is delightful at these times.
  • Disadvantages: Occasional rain showers. (Spring rains taper off by June; autumn can see early snow in late October.) Hotel prices in Kars may be a bit higher during shoulder-season festivals.
• Winter (November–March):
  • Advantages: Spectacular snowscapes. When it snows, Ani becomes otherworldly: white drifts stack in empty courtyards, turning the city into a silent, surreal vision. The air is crisp and clear – ideal for stark black-and-white photography. If one is prepared, a winter visit can be magical.
  • Disadvantages: Very cold and windy. Daylight is short (sunset as early as 5 pm). Snow can block roads to Ani or make walking slippery. In deep winter, access might be limited on heavy-snow days (check local status). The single café at the entrance often remains open, but expect it to be chilly inside. Thermal layers, gloves and a warm hat are essential.
  • Tip: Even if you go in winter, try to come on a clear day after fresh snowfall. Avoid driving in a blizzard. The bus from Kars still runs on schedule most days, but confirm ahead if a big storm is forecast.

In summary, May–June and September–October are the sweet spots. You get comfortable weather, pleasant colors, and full access. Summer works if you manage the midday heat, and winter is only for the very hardy or the deeply curious.

A Walking Tour of Ani: What to See in the City of 1001 Churches

No guide to Ani can skip a room-by-room (so to speak) account of its ruins. This section serves as a virtual guided tour, moving logically through the site. We recommend following the main loop road from the parking/entry area and circling the city. (Maps and signs on-site will also show each monument’s location.)

Before starting the tour, it’s worth noting that in 2023 a new Ani mobile app was released (by the World Monuments Fund and Turkey) for self-guided exploration. This interactive map (and printed brochures available at Kars) can point out the exact spots of interest. We will proceed in the order that a visitor typically encounters them, roughly from south to north.

The Grand Entrance: The City Walls and the Lion Gate

Most visitors begin at the main entrance where the parking lot meets the outer fortifications on the northern edge of Ani. There stands a long double wall system that once protected the city. A deep gully (the Tsaghkotsadzor valley) lies behind these walls, meaning only the north side needed heavy fortification. This northern wall complex was built by King Smbat II (977–989), and it was later heightened and thickened by his successors. Today you can walk along the base of the inner and outer walls (the upper wall is not intact but would have risen high). Count the surviving towers – many round towers with arrow slits can still be seen. These would have bristled with defenders in battle.

The main entry point is the Lion Gate. It consists of two arches side-by-side – one into the city proper, the other into a small defensive courtyard. (Only one arch is open for use; the other is solid masonry, forming a murder-hole chamber.) On the outside of the gateway’s inner arch, visitors today can still see the carved heraldic lions (though worn) that give the gate its name. Legend holds that water once trickled from a lion’s mouth here – a reminder of the water cistern hidden in the tower overhead. Standing at the Lion Gate (marked on some maps as “Kars Gate” for the route coming from Kars), one looks inward along the city’s main street. To the left is the skeletal ruin of the city’s great Cathedral of Ani, visible from the gate’s approach (more on this soon). But first we turn briefly right to see a smaller site just inside the wall.

On your right, a short walk past the ticket booth brings you to the City Walls Museum/Café area (just inside the entrance). This is a good spot to rest, use facilities, and picnic if desired. Adjacent is a small brick building called “the lower church” – it was originally a small Georgian Orthodox chapel. Next to that, a relief showing a dromedary (on the wall of the complex) hints at Ani’s Silk Road connections: this camel carving was a medieval advertisement pointing caravans toward the city’s market.

Return now to the Lion Gate plaza to resume the tour. Cross the threshold and you are on Ani’s ancient cobbled streets. The walk up to the cathedral offers your first panoramic sight of Ani’s cathedral dome (though largely collapsed now). This is a dramatic moment: the cathedral, whose still-standing west portal is visible from the gate, was the focal point of Bagratid Ani’s skyline.

The Heart of the City: The Cathedral of Ani (Surp Asdvadzadzin)

Straight ahead as you enter, dominating the central area, are the remains of Ani’s Cathedral – often called Surp Asdvadzadzin (“Holy Mother of God”). Completed in 1001, this cruciform domed basilica was the largest structure in Ani. Today what stands is a vast stone hall with eight towering pillars (formerly holding up the dome) and a large west façade arch. Much of the dome collapsed centuries ago, but the building’s proportions are still awe-inspiring.

Architecturally, the cathedral was groundbreaking. Designed by Trdat for King Smbat II, it had a cross-shaped interior and a conical dome set on a drum. Its most innovative feature was the ribbed vaulting inside the dome area, which prefigured Gothic rib vaults by two centuries. Standing inside, one can trace where those ribs would have met overhead. The stone is a mixture of pale tuff and smooth terra-cotta brick – this alternating color effect was meant to glitter in the sunlight. The cathedral’s liturgy would have been lavish, with a tall altar at the eastern end (only a foundation ring now remains) and marble floors (now missing).

One curious detail: to the cathedral’s northwest corner was attached a small circular tomb-chapel for the Bagratid kings. Ruins of that annex still lie there; inside were burial vaults. Nearby archaeologists have found the remains of at least two kings in this family crypt. Unfortunately the chapel roof is gone, but you can see the doorway where monarchs entered their final resting place.

Today the cathedral’s interior is stripped; only its massive stone screen arch stands mostly intact. The west façade still bears the empty triangular gable that once held a relief (legend says a cross or a lion image). Adjoining the church on the north is the ruin of its narthex (an enclosed porch), which visitors often enter through. Carved inscriptions above the narthex arch record the names of patrons (one is King Smbat’s name). Also noteworthy: scattered on the ground in front of the cathedral are a few khachkars (cross-stones), set upright on low plinths. These gravestones were likely moved here from nearby cemeteries for safekeeping.

Visiting the cathedral is a solemn experience. You may sit on the low stones and gaze at the sky through the gaping dome opening. In early morning or late afternoon light the remaining stonework glows a warm orange. In winter, snow collects on the floor of the church and on top of the pillars – it’s hauntingly beautiful. Just remember: the floor is uneven and there are no railings, so watch your step on the ruins.

The Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents

Leaving the cathedral, head north a few steps and turn east. You will soon encounter one of Ani’s most intact churches: St. Gregory of Tigran Honents (built 1215). This church was commissioned by a wealthy merchant, Tigran Honents, and at his request contains some of the finest surviving artwork in Ani.

This church’s floorplan is a simple rectangle with a dome. From the outside, its brick façade has a checkerboard pattern of tuff and brick, echoing colors of the Lion Gate. Over its main entrance an ornate bas-relief shows St. Gregory the Illuminator (Armenia’s patron saint) blessing Tigran Honents – it is one of the few figural carvings remaining. But the real marvel is inside. The church interior is almost completely covered with frescoes (paintings) – a rare find in Ani, where most paintings have vanished.

In the eastern apse you will see scenes of the Life of St. Gregory: his baptism of King Tiridates, his preaching, etc. In the central bay are scenes from the Life of Christ: Nativity, Crucifixion, Resurrection, etc. These frescoes use vivid earth tones – ochre, blue, white – and were likely painted by Georgian artists (note the elegant style). A smaller chapel in front of the church (a sort of porch with its own dome) contains additional frescos in Byzantine style. Scholars praise Honents church because it vividly shows Ani’s late medieval artistry.

Visitors should walk slowly around this church, examining the painted walls and pillars. Photographs are allowed and highly recommended here (no flash, as light is dim). It may be the best place in Ani to feel the “alive” community the city once had – centuries-old worshippers left their images on plaster for us to see.

The Church of the Redeemer (Surp Amenap’rkitch)

Continuing eastward along the main street, one comes to the intriguingly named Church of the Redeemer (Armenian “Amenap’rkitch”). This building dates to the early 11th century (shortly after 1035) and was originally conceived to be extraordinary: it was a 19-sided polygon on the outside, with 8 internal apses and a massive dome. Inscriptions say Prince Ablgharib Pahlavid built it to house a relic of the True Cross. It resembled a jewel: imagine an octagonal church surmounted by a great central dome ringed by smaller niches.

Unfortunately, half of this church is now missing. In 1955 a winter storm caused the entire eastern half of the church to collapse (some accounts say heavy snowfall caused the roof to cave). What remains is the western portion – a half-ruined octagon. The central drum and base of the dome still rise, and you can look through the gaping side that used to be the altar end. One sees jagged edges of stone where the upper walls fell away. Despite its missing half, the Redeemer is still fascinating to explore. Its lower walls have some sculpted crosses and niches, and the exposed floor stones were colored brickwork in the original, portions of which remain.

Stand at the edge of the collapse and imagine the church as it was: the intact half also once had a carved west portal arch with inscriptions. On the ground inside lie fallen capitals and column drums from its former interior. The church of the Redeemer dramatizes Ani’s precarious ruins – it teaches us how even grand buildings here have been battered by nature. It is reachable down a short side path from the main road. (Be very careful when walking among the rubble inside – much of it is sharp and unstable.)

The Mosque of Manuchihr

Just north of the Church of the Redeemer, at a high point overlooking the gorge, stands the Menüçehr (Manuchihr) Mosque. Dating from 1072, it is generally regarded as the first Islamic structure built in Ani (by the Kurdish Shaddadid emir Manuchihr). The mosque is notable because its minaret – a tall cylindrical tower – still stands largely intact. In fact, this minaret is Ani’s signature “marker” when viewed from a distance. It tapers from a square base to a cylinder and then to a conical top; an inscription in Arabic Kufic script runs near its top tier.

Originally the mosque had a large courtyard and a domed prayer hall. Today only half of the prayer hall survives (the eastern wall and dome have collapsed). The mosque’s lavish east portal – carved in two tones of stone – was restored in 1906 by archaeologist Nicholas Marr as a museum entrance, and it remains partially functional. Look for it on the outside wall: it has a pointed arch and decorative brickwork.

From the mosque’s platform you get sweeping views of the Akhurian gorge. To the north lies an islet of rock (the “Islambeg fortress”) which once had a small castle. Across the chasm on the Armenian side is a strip of meadow dotted with walnut trees and ruined village structures (this is the old Armenian settlement of Ani, not to be confused with the current Turkish Ani site). In the valley below the mosque one sees the rickety remains of the old single-arch bridge (discussed below). Photographers often linger here for sunset or sunrise shots – the view past the minaret to the horizon is spectacular.

In recent years the Turkish government has begun restoration work on the mosque (started in 2020). Scaffolding may be present if you visit. Nevertheless, one should respect that this structure is still considered holy by Muslims. Men should remove hats before entering the prayer hall space, and everyone should tread lightly on its stone floor.

The Citadel (Iç Kale) and the Palace

From the Manuchihr Mosque plateau, one can see a steep path leading down to the southern citadel hill of Ani. The citadel is the tallest point in the site, a flat-topped conical hill once called Midjnaberd (“inner fortress”). It was fortified as early as the 7th century by the Kamsarakan princes, making it the oldest defensible core of Ani. In the late 10th century it became the king’s stronghold, and the ruins of the Bagratid royal palace lie there.

Climb the rough trail (marked but unpaved) through collapsed walls up to the summit. The climb is short but steep (about 10–15 minutes). At the top you emerge on a grassy hill with scattered stone foundations. On the highest part are the remains of a large palace building and gate. Nearby are three ruined churches that once served royal functions (one being the “church of the palace” from the 6th–7th century). This high citadel was considered impregnable in its day, and indeed King Smbat II repeatedly took refuge here during sieges.

Today the citadel feels very wild and deserted. Sheep graze freely. From the summit one gets a panoramic view of all of Ani: west to the mosque’s plateau, north to the valley and open fields, east toward the Cathedral area, and especially the almost-surreal view down into the gully between Ani and Turkey’s Değirmenköy (ancient Arpaçay valley). It is the spot to appreciate the site’s full layout. On the way down, the path traverses the eastern slope of the hill; you may notice terraced foundations where once noble residences stood. Far below you can pick out the footpath that leads to the old city bridge.

Other Must-See Churches and Chapels

Beyond the grand monuments above, Ani has many smaller churches worth a detour:

• Church of St. Gregory of the Abughamrents (10th c.) – Just west of Honents church stands this small but exquisite chapel. Built by the Pahlavuni family around the late 900s, its façade is richly carved (today mostly in shadow). Enter it to see its six false apses and elegant stone vault. Inside is a single collapsed chamber, but outside you can admire the masonry and the remains of an attached mausoleum (1040 AD) where the family was buried. Note the precisely cut stone blocks and the ornate pediment: this tiny church rivals its larger neighbors in workmanship.
• Church of the Holy Apostles (11th–13th c.) – Near the center of the city, south of the cathedral, lie the ruins of the Church of the Holy Apostles. Only its footprint and some foundation walls survive today. Its plan was a complex inscribed cross with corner chapels (as was typical for a cathedral church). The most impressive remnant is on the south side: a partially-standing narthex (entry hall) from the 13th century, with beautiful window carvings. If accessible, step inside the narthex ruins to see the multiple carvings of crosses on its facades. This church was once used by the Armenian archbishops of Ani, and archaeologists under Nicholas Marr excavated the surrounding buildings in 1909.
• Georgian (Chalcedonian) Church of St. Stephanos (13th c.) – A bit to the northeast of the Holy Apostles, across the way in a separate area, stands a modest domed church known in Armenian as “Surp Stepanos.” It is called “Georgian” because it was under the Georgian Orthodox church’s jurisdiction, though the congregation was Armenian Chalcedonian Christians. Built perhaps in 1218, its walls are largely intact. You can walk around it; note the simpler style of its architecture, and the fact that it has no traces of a cemetery (since Chalcedonians would have been buried under floor slabs inside). It illustrates the religious diversity within Ani.

These are the main additional sanctuaries. Everywhere you step in Ani, you are never far from a carved cross, an altar slab, or a tombstone fragment. Many smaller chapels (a couple dozen) are scattered: you may spot tiny free-standing chapels (single-room) at corners or just inside the walls. Though individually modest, they collectively reinforce the feeling that Ani was a city built to worship – each corner had a chapel or shrine.

Beyond the Walls: The Cave Village and the Silk Road Bridge

Do not neglect what lies just outside Ani’s ancient city walls. Two features beckon: the cave dwellings and the old bridge spanning the Arpaçay.

On the eastern cliffside across the valley (known today as the “Kızıl Kilise” area), locals have carved a rock-cut settlement (sometimes called the “Cave Village”). Early travelers noted houses hollowed out of the cliffs – and these caves were indeed used by villagers when Ani overflowed. The UNESCO report states that Ani has “caves and grottoes” where people built chapels and homes. If you look from the city walls or the mosque terrace you can see these caves climbing the opposite slope like steps. Today a handful of goats and sheep shelter there, but one can also hike up for closer inspection. The highlight is a small cave church, partly excavated, with remnants of frescoes on the limestone. (It is far out of the way, so only attempt this if you have an extra hour.) Seeing the caves gives you a sense of how Ani’s population once spilled over the urban core, forming an “outer Ani.”

Crossing from Ani back toward Kars (southward along the river gorge) leads to the second must-see: the ruins of the medieval bridge. In the 19th-century photographs of Ani, one often sees a single stone arch still standing across the gorge. Today only the abutments remain. The bridge spanned the Arpaçay (Akhurian), linking Ani to Armenia and the village of Karakilise (in Turkey) or Voskanapat (in Armenia). It was part of the Silk Road, allowing caravans to pass. The TravelToEat research notes that only the two ends of a stone bridge survive. Indeed, from Ani’s south gate you can walk down to see one end of the arch on this side. The far end of the bridge is on a small islet 200 meters into the river (though it is now Armenian territory and fenced off). You can photograph the ruined Turkish side easily. In Ottoman times, an engineer’s plan even suggested the bridge had a lifting section (to isolate Ani in war). For the modern visitor, the crumbling bridge piers and the sweeping gorge are atmospheric reminders of Ani’s role as a crossroads of continents.

That concludes the on-foot tour of Ani’s principal monuments. One could also explore many other nooks: the remains of a Zoroastrian fire temple (a small round tower near the mosque), the Virgin Chapel (a tiny three-apse church), old caravanserai foundations, bathhouses, tombs – but these lie beyond the scope of most visits. By circling through the walls, cathedral, main churches, mosque, citadel, and key outside features, one covers the most significant ground.

With the sights now catalogued, we turn to the practical aspects of planning your journey to Ani, from where to sleep in Kars to what gear to pack.

Planning Your Trip: Accommodation, Tours, and Practical Tips

Ani’s site is archaeological and uninhabited, so no one sleeps at the ruins. Instead, the nearby city of Kars (55–60 km south of Ani) serves as the base. Kars is a small city of around 75,000 people, with hotels, restaurants and amenities. Below are recommendations and tips for making your visit smooth and enjoyable.

Where to Stay: The Best Hotels in Kars for Visiting Ani

In Kars you will find accommodations to match all budgets. A few standout choices are:

• Luxury/High-End: Hotel Katerina Sarayi – This top-rated hotel is actually housed in a restored 19th-century Ottoman manor right by the Kars Stream. It offers large rooms, an on-site hamam (Turkish bath) and a high-end restaurant. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk from Kars Castle.
• Mid-Range: Grand Ani Hotel – A popular mid-range choice near Kars center with clean modern rooms and a helpful staff. (Its name alludes to Ani.) Also the nearby Hotel Kent is a reliable mid-range option with simple rooms and free shuttle service.
• Budget/Backpacker: Hotel Nor Bayazet or Nimetyan Hotel – Smaller family-run hotels with basic but comfortable rooms. These are a good value and both have English-speaking hosts familiar with western tourists.
• Boutique: Narin Hotel – A small boutique-style hotel housed in a historic building, with a charming courtyard.

It is wise to book your hotel in advance if traveling during summer or holidays (Akchabat Yortu in Kars, around July 1, draws many visitors to local summer festivals). All recommended hotels will assist you in arranging transportation to Ani, calls to a taxi, or recommended tour guides. Kars is also known for its hearty regional cuisine (cheeses, soups, kebabs), so plan to enjoy traditional meals in local restaurants there.

Guided Tours of Ani: Should You Book One?

Visiting Ani independently is straightforward (thanks to the clear paths and information boards). However, some travelers prefer a guided tour to add insight. Licensed guides from Kars can provide historical background and point out details that you might otherwise overlook. Guided day trips (with lunch) cost roughly 60–80 TRY per person, including van transfer. As mentioned earlier, Celil Ersözoğlu is one famous local guide whose tours are well reviewed online.

Pros of a guide: They will share stories of Ani’s legends, explain architectural features in detail, and may take you off the beaten path. If your itinerary is tight, a guide ensures you see all highlights in the available time. Cons: It is more expensive, and less flexible (you follow the group schedule). Unless you are a history buff or prefer the narrative, many independent travelers find that touring solo or in pairs is completely adequate. Remember, all major sights are labelled in English.

If you do hire a guide, make sure they are officially licensed. (Unofficial guides sometimes approach tourists by the cathedral or walls; they may lack permissions or accurate information.) Hotels can also recommend reputable tour companies. Finally, if you only have a short time and no local contacts, a guided shuttle from Kars is a convenient way to go (the morning and afternoon shuttles mentioned above are essentially group tours with fixed stops).

What to Pack for Your Ani Adventure

Ani’s terrain and weather demand some planning. Here are essentials for any season:

• Walking/hiking shoes – Sturdy, closed-toe shoes with good grip are essential. The ground is rough: uneven cobblestones, rubble, and sometimes slippery stones. Sandals or flip-flops are not advised. (Hiking shoes or sneakers with ankle support are ideal.)
• Sun protection: In summer, the site has almost no shade. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses and high-SPF sunscreen. Long sleeves (lightweight fabric) can also help fend off the sun.
• Layered clothing: Even if you travel in summer, mornings and evenings can be chilly, especially in spring/fall. A light jacket or fleece is useful. In winter, wear a heavy coat, gloves, scarf and a woolen hat. Windproof outer layers are a plus, since cold winds blow across the plateau.
• Water and snacks: It can be 30–60 minutes on foot between the parking gate and the far side of the ruins, with no shops in between. Carry a water bottle (there is one drinking tap near the entrance) and some high-energy snacks (nuts, dried fruit). A picnic lunch is also a good idea if you plan a full day (though there is a cafe at the start, further snacks won’t hurt).
• Backpack or daypack: To hold your water, guidebook/maps, camera gear, and any jackets. A small first-aid kit (plasters, painkillers) is not a bad idea for minor scrapes.
• Camera and Binoculars: Ani is extremely photogenic. A good camera is a must (with spare batteries/SD card). Binoculars can enhance the distant views into the gorge.
• Notebook/Guidebook: If you enjoy jotting notes, bring a small notebook or print a map of the site. (Some visitors also download offline maps or use the Ani app on a smartphone for orientation.)

Bottom line: Comfortable, practical gear. This is not a time for fashion – prioritize function and layers. And do not forget your passport, which border police may ask to see either at the site or on the way.

Photography in Ani: Tips for Capturing the Magic

Ani’s ruins are a photographer’s delight. Here are some tips to make the most of your camera:

• Best light: Early morning (sunrise) and late afternoon (sunset) provide the most dramatic, warm light on the stones. Shadows are long and the façades glow in golden hues. Midday light is harsh and bleached, though it can be fine for interior frescoes (Honents church) since you need good side-lighting. If you have to shoot at noon, try to angle the sun behind you for direct illumination of façades.
• Key viewpoints:
  • From the Citadel (southern hilltop) you get a sweeping panorama of Ani’s full city – this is excellent for a bird’s-eye view shot (with the cathedral at center).
  • From Manuchihr Mosque’s terrace one can compose the minaret and the river gorge. At sunset this silhouette is stunning.
  • The Lion Gate as a foreground framing device to the cathedral beyond is a classic shot.
  • Inside Honents church, bring a wide-angle lens or panorama shot to capture the entire fresco cycle if possible (it might not fit in one frame otherwise).
  • The river bridge remains look wonderful at dusk, with lights (if any) or in moonlight.
• Composition: Ani’s strong verticals (church walls, pillars) contrast with the horizontal sweep of the plateau. Use diagonals (ruined walls receding, the cliff edge) for dynamic effect. Don’t be shy to get close to carvings or inscriptions for detail shots. Also look down: many khachkars are at ground level now, and these carved stones make great foreground interest.
• Photographing Details: Pay attention to the polychrome stonework (alternating stone and brick), which catches the eye. There are Greek and Armenian inscriptions on some columns and lintels – these are meaningful to photograph if you can read them later.
• Panoramas: If you have panorama functionality on your camera/phone, Ani’s wide vistas (especially from the citadel) can be well captured by stitching images.
• Drone Use: Note that drones are prohibited at Ani for preservation and security reasons. Stick to handheld or tripod shots.
• Weather Considerations: After rain, the stone steps and paths get slick – protect your equipment (camera bag) and watch your footing. Snow on the ground can beautifully highlight details (use an HDR setting if possible to balance white snow with darker ruins).

In general, slow down and frame each shot deliberately. Ani deserves time with each subject; rather than rushing, try to absorb the atmosphere and let your photographs reflect Ani’s stillness.

The Future of Ani: Preservation and Its Role Today

Although Ani has been empty for centuries, its future now looks far more secure than its bleak mid-20th-century past. In 2016 the Turkish government’s UNESCO nomination succeeded: Ani and the nearby ruins of Çıldır were inscribed together as “Ani Archaeological Site” on the World Heritage List. This has brought global attention and funds. As the UNESCO Advisory Body noted, Ani’s preservation is now backed by “significant benefits in protection, research expertise, and funding”.

Indeed, Turkey’s Ministry of Culture has been working with international partners on Ani’s conservation. In the last two decades, teams from the World Monuments Fund (WMF) and others have assessed damage and stabilized key structures. For example, the WMF placed Ani on its list of 100 Most Endangered Sites in the 1990s, and since 2011 has been actively conserving the Cathedral and Holy Redeemer churches. There is also a comprehensive Conservation-Oriented Development Plan that guides excavation, restoration and tourism in Ani. These efforts mean that fragile elements (like crumbling pillars or painted plaster) are being protected for posterity.

Looking forward, Ani is envisioned not just as a monument but as a point of cultural exchange. Some hopes have been expressed that jointly promoting Ani’s heritage could foster cross-border dialogue between Turkey and Armenia. Already, modest steps like Armenian-language exhibit panels in the observation post on the Armenian side show respect for Ani’s shared history. For visitors, the expectation is that Ani will remain accessible, well-signposted, and in as good a condition as can be managed in this remote area.

Finally, each visitor plays a part in Ani’s future. Responsible tourism here means treading lightly: follow marked paths, do not climb on intact monuments, and carry out any trash. Souvenirs should not include any fragments (even a fallen brick is too much to take). By visiting with curiosity and respect, travelers help to keep Ani alive – not by lights or commerce, but through awareness and wonder. As we have shown, Ani is a tangible chronicle of human achievement and loss. Let it stand as a protected legacy.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Ani Ancient City

What is Ani Ancient City? Ani is a ruined medieval city in eastern Turkey, once the capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom (AD 961–1045). It is famous for its collection of churches and fortifications dating from the 7th to 13th centuries. Today Ani is an archaeological park and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Why is it called the “City of 1001 Churches”? This was a medieval epithet highlighting Ani’s many churches. In reality, historians have documented dozens, not literally 1001. The nickname simply honors Ani’s great religious architecture and status as a major Christian center.

Where is Ani located, in Turkey or Armenia? Ani lies within Turkey’s borders, in the province of Kars, about 42 km north of the city of Kars. It sits on the eastern bank of the Akhurian (Arpa) River, which forms the contemporary border with Armenia. The nearest village on the Armenian side is Kharkov (Shirak Province), a few hundred meters from Ani.

What is the history of Ani in brief? Ani’s golden age was 961–1045 as the Armenian capital. After 1045 it came under Byzantine then Seljuk rule, and was heavily damaged by Mongol invasions in 1236. A major earthquake in 1319 did further destruction. By the 17th–18th centuries it was largely abandoned. Modern archeology has pieced together this timeline through chronicles and ruins.

Can I visit Ani today? Yes. Visitors can freely explore Ani without any special permits. Simply travel to Kars and then to the site during opening hours. As of 2025, admission costs about 8 EUR (or use a Turkish Müzekart pass). You will need to present your passport upon entry, but no advance authorization is required.

What’s the best way to get to Ani from Kars? The simplest way is by the public shuttle bus. Every morning at about 9:00 AM a van departs from Kars (near Kale Cafe) to Ani, returning by 11:30–12:00. The ticket is very cheap (around 100–200 TRY round-trip). In winter there may be only one daily bus. Alternatively, hire a taxi (about 150–200 TRY for roundtrip) or join a guided tour from Kars.

How much is the entrance fee to Ani? The official ticket price in 2025 is 8 EUR (roughly 310 Turkish Lira) per person. If you have the Turkish Museum Pass (Müzekart), entry is included at no additional charge. Payments must be in cash; no credit cards at the gate.

What is the best time of year to visit? Many travelers prefer spring (April–June) or autumn (September–October). The weather is comfortable and the scenery is vivid. Summer (July–August) has long days but can be very hot. Winter brings snow and ice – the ruins look beautiful under snow, but it is cold (pack warm gear) and road access can be tricky.

How much time do I need to see Ani? You should plan on spending at least 3–4 hours at the site. This gives enough time to see the major monuments (cathedral, major churches, mosque, walls, and viewpoints). History buffs might spend a full day exploring. Bus visitors (on a fixed schedule) often have only 2½–3 hours, which is considered just the bare minimum. Don’t rush – to appreciate Ani, allow yourself at least a half day.

What are the main things to see at the site? Key highlights include: the Cathedral of Ani (large domed church), the fresco-filled St. Gregory of Tigran Honents Church, the Church of the Redeemer (partially collapsed polygonal church), and the Minaret of Manuchihr Mosque. Also important are the double city walls and the Lion Gate, and the high citadel hill with the royal palace remains. Beyond the main complex, look for the cave village dwellings on the valley cliffs and the remains of the old river bridge below.