Şirince is more than a mere tourist waypoint; it is a living mosaic of history and culture. Its narrow flagstone alleys wind through tile-roofed houses that recall an Ottoman-Greek heritage. Olive groves and vineyards terrace the hillsides, framing vistas of distant mountains and the Aegean Sea. Each turn seems to offer a new scene: a courtyard of jasmine-scented grapevines, a café table shaded by vines, an old woman pouring sand-brewed coffee at a riverside teahouse. The village’s quiet dignity and palpable past give it a sense of being “preserved” in time – as one author notes, Şirince is “well protected and a rare and attractive example of Ottoman Christian architecture”.

Yet Şirince never feels like a museum. Daily life here is pastoral and neighborly: bakers knead dough for gözleme in front of toddlers playing in the street; elderly farmers tend their apricot trees; artisans display handmade soap, olive oil and carpets on weathered wooden stalls. Above all, it is the convivial wine culture that animates Şirince. The village has become synonymous with meyve şarabı – sweet, fragrant wines made from local fruits like peach, mulberry, pomegranate and even kiwifruit and banana. This heritage lives on in every cafe and wine house.

In short, Şirince feels like an Aegean haven untouched by time. Its rustic ambience and authentic flavor give a welcome escape from the bustle of city life. Travelers here slow down and breathe deeply of the fragrant mountain air. The day unfolds with simple pleasures: wandering, sipping coffee and wine, and absorbing stories of the land. By journey’s end, even the casual visitor senses why Şirince has charmed countless people: it is as much a state of mind as a place. In Şirince, history and hospitality merge seamlessly, leaving an indelible impression on all who come to its stone steps and vine-shaded cafés.

Şirince at a Glance: A Quick Guide for Travelers in a Hurry

• Worth visiting? Absolutely. Şirince is small but rich – famed for its fruit wines, Greek-Ottoman heritage, and tranquil Aegean setting. Its postcard-perfect village squares, centuries-old churches, and historic homes make it a compelling detour from nearby Ephesus.
• Top 5 Unmissable Experiences: (1) Wandering the cobbled lanes and classical houses; (2) Sampling the local fruit wines (aromatic peach, cherry, pomegranate, elderberry, etc.) at a village “wine house”; (3) Visiting the restored Byzantine churches of St. John and St. Demetrius; (4) Enjoying a leisurely Aegean meal on a hillside terrace; (5) Exploring the nearby Nesin Mathematics Village (a summer campus) and Theatre-Madrasa complex founded by Sevan Nişanyan.
• Quick Facts: Located in İzmir Province, Şirince lies on a slope above Selçuk (8 km east) and only about 8 km from the ruins of Ephesus. The village population is under 1,000. Şirince is best known for its ev yapımı meyve şarapları (homemade fruit wines), historic Greek-Ottoman architecture, and lively bazaar. July–August bring crowds, so spring or fall often offer ideal weather and fewer tourists.

An Epic History: From the Hills of Ephesus to a Global Phenomenon

The Ancient Origins: A Sanctuary for Freed Ephesian Greeks

Şirince’s story predates even its own name. Ancient texts hint that the hills around modern Şirince were sacred to Artemis and Apollo; some scholars speculate that this area might lie near Ortygia, the grove of mythic lore referenced by Strabo. Archaeological finds – Roman villas and Hellenistic remains – suggest that, for millennia, villagers farmed these slopes. Yet by the Ottoman era the site emerged as a prosperous mountain hamlet known for its fruit orchards and tobacco fields.

Local legend holds that Şirince’s first serious settlement came at the end of the 17th century. A story goes that a group of freed Greek slaves from nearby Ephesus (Aphrodisias) took refuge on this hillside. Disliked outsiders, they allegedly nicknamed the hamlet “Çirkince” (literally, “Uglyville” in Turkish) to ward off interlopers. Whether this colorful origin is true or apocryphal, it points to a Greek-speaking past. In fact, Ottoman tax records and yearbooks confirm that by the 19th century Kirkinje (the older name) was an entirely Greek Orthodox village. Its inhabitants maintained their own mayor, schools and churches despite Ottoman rule – even as they spoke Turkish as a mother tongue.

What’s in a Name? The Journey from “Çirkince” to Şirince

The shift from “Çirkince” to “Şirince” (from “ugly” to “pleasant/cute”) only occurred in the modern era. In 1926, the Turkish provincial governor officially bestowed the new name, Şirince, whose root (Şirin) means “pleasant, charming” in Turkish. This renaming was partly a lighthearted rebranding – the old nickname was a source of ironic pride – but it also reflected hopes for the village’s renewal under the young Republic of Turkey. The new name proved fitting: today Şirince’s quaint beauty scarcely lives up to the jibe that once labeled it “ugly.” The adoption of “pleasant little village” went hand-in-hand with its later rebirth as a heritage site.

A Thriving Greek Village: Life Before the 20th Century

In the late Ottoman period, Kirkinje/Şirince was a flourishing community of farmers and merchants. One traveler in the 1800s wrote admiringly of the handsome Greek houses with ornate woodwork, built around courtyard gardens of figs and grapes. The village’s income came largely from its rich harvests: figs, olives, tobacco, and especially grapes for wine and raisins. Indeed, by the early 1900s a yearbook noted that all of Şirince’s roughly 1,000 households were Greek Orthodox. The surviving structures – a stone schoolhouse, mill, and churches – speak to that era.

This multi-century equilibrium ended with the cataclysms of World War I and the Greco-Turkish War. Some local Greeks agitated for union with Greece during the Balkan Wars (1912–13), and when the Greek army briefly occupied western Anatolia (1919–1922), men from Kirkinje joined the effort. After Turkey emerged victorious in 1922 and the Treaty of Lausanne drew new borders, an official population exchange was enacted. In 1923 every Orthodox Christian in Şirince – around 4,000 people – was forced to leave for Greece.

Answering the Question: Was Şirince a Greek Village? Yes. Until 1923, Şirince’s residents were overwhelmingly Greek Orthodox, speaking Turkish at home but maintaining Greek liturgy and culture. In the 19th century it even had two active churches and multiple schools. The modern village’s roots lie in that vanished community. The exchange uprooted the Greeks – many were resettled near Thessaloniki (in a town still called Nea Efesos) – and filled Şirince with Turkish Muslims from Macedonia and Thrace.

The Treaty of Lausanne’s Impact on Şirince: This 1923 agreement mandated a massive “exchange of populations” between Greece and Turkey based on religion. Şirince’s Greeks were sent to Greece; their homes fell vacant. The young Turkish Republic brought in approximately 4,000 Muslims from Greek Macedonia (especially around Kavala and Florina) to repopulate the Aegean villages. In Şirince, these new arrivals struggled with winter snows and isolation in the 1920s, a sharp change from their coastal origins. They also had to revive farms and vineyards abandoned in the war’s chaos. Many initially moved on to the cities by mid-century, and by the 1950s the village population had dwindled, leaving half-built stone houses to decay.

Over decades the identity of Şirince shifted: its inhabitants were now Turks with Balkan roots, but they clung to certain Macedonian traditions (notably their winemaking techniques). By the mid-20th century the village was nearly derelict. Only a handful of villagers remained, quietly tending grapes and olives by starlight and mule-drawn carts – far from tour buses or guidebooks.

The 2012 Doomsday Phenomenon: How Şirince Became the “Safest Place on Earth”

In an unexpected twist, Şirince rocketed onto the global stage in late 2012. As the world fretted over Mayan calendar predictions of an “end of days” on December 21, a viral story claimed that Şirince’s “positive energy” would protect any who sheltered there. Conspiracy websites hyped Şirince alongside France’s Bugarach as mystical safe havens.

In reality, the legend had little basis in the village’s past – it was more a modern myth than an ancient belief. Still, tens of thousands of doomsday believers descended on Şirince in December 2012. Reporters observed crowds camping in olive groves, pagans lighting bonfires, and even a Russian man paragliding in carrying a Ukrainian flag. Local officials, for their part, played along: Turkey’s Tourism Minister quipped that whether or not an apocalypse came, “people who want to see such a beautiful region for this reason are all welcome”.

The effect was unmistakable: Şirince’s normal winter tourism (when many pensions are closed) turned into a boom. The local press noted that “the Mayan prophecy has sparked a tourism boom in the town of 600 inhabitants, which is now expected to host more than 60,000 visitors”. Villagers took advantage – one entrepreneur even marketed a “Wine of the Apocalypse” for Dec. 21, 2012. As a local hotel owner told AFP, “It is the first time we witnessed such an interest during the winter season”. Another restaurantier said simply, “The rumors floating around have increased the number of customers. We are only happy about it”.

While the doomsday frenzy soon proved unfounded (nothing catastrophic happened on Dec. 22), its legacy was durable: Şirince’s name had gone global overnight. The world’s media coverage – from The Guardian to France24 – gave this sleepy village unprecedented publicity. By 2013, many businesses reported year-round traffic. Far from being a tourist trap, the newfound attention injected life into Şirince’s economy. Craft shops sprouted, pensions expanded, and weekend day-trippers from İzmir and beyond arrived by the busload. In effect, an outlandish myth reawakened a village; the once-empty stone streets again rang with conversation and clinking glasses.

The Ultimate Logistical Guide: Getting To and Around Şirince

Despite its remote charm, Şirince is surprisingly accessible. Here is everything a traveler needs to plan the journey:

From İzmir: Airports, Trains and Shuttles

By Train (the recommended approach).

The easiest way from İzmir is via Selçuk by train. Turkey’s national rail (TCDD) runs a commuter line from Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) directly to Selçuk. The 64‑kilometer ride takes about 1¼ hours and costs only a few Turkish lira (roughly €2 in 2025). From İzmir city center you can first take the Izban suburban train (or metro) to the airport station, then hop on the Selçuk‑bound train. Trains run several times daily (check the TCDD website for schedules).

At Selçuk station (or the nearby bus terminal), disembark and walk or take a taxi a few minutes to the Selçuk bus depot. Here you will find the dolmuş (minibus) stand for Şirince (white minibuses marked “Selçuk-Şirince”). The dolmuş takes only about 15–20 minutes up the hill into Şirince (8 km distance). Summer schedules typically run the first bus around 7:30 and then every 20 minutes until late evening; in winter the frequency drops. Fare is on the order of 40 Turkish lira (2025 prices), payable on the minibus.

Rome2Rio confirms: taking the train from ADB to Selçuk and then a minibus is both fast and frugal. As one itinerary note explains, “the cheapest way to get from Izmir Airport (ADB) to Şirince is [by] train, which takes about 1h12m and costs €5–9”. Indeed, the Izmir–Selçuk train often costs only 55 TL (≈€2). This is our recommended route for independent travelers – it’s scenic, reliable, and avoids highway traffic.

By Car or Taxi.

If you prefer driving, Şirince is about 67 km from İzmir Airport via highway. A private car or rental takes roughly 50 minutes. From central İzmir to Şirince by road also takes about one hour when traffic is normal. Note that the final 10 km branch off the main Izmir–Aydın highway at Belevi and twists up a mountain road; but the road is paved and well maintained. GPS navigation is straightforward – just search “Şirince, Selçuk.” Rental cars (cost ~€7–10/day) give flexibility, especially if you want to visit outlying sites like the House of the Virgin Mary or multiple villages.

A taxi straight from the airport to Şirince is convenient but pricey: estimates run around €35–45 (for 65 km) or 650–800 TL by late-2010s data. If your budget allows, a prepaid taxi might be worth it for door‑to‑door comfort (especially in a group). Alternatively, consider a private transfer service (many can be booked online) or a shared shuttle (e.g. Havas shuttle buses run airport‑to‑Selçuk regularly for ~€10, after which you do the local dolmuş).

From Selçuk: The Village Gateway

Selçuk is the nearest town, only 8 km west of Şirince. All buses from İzmir or Kuşadası first pass through Selçuk. Once in Selçuk, getting to Şirince is very easy:

• By Dolmuş: The Şirince dolmuş departs from Selçuk’s main bus terminal (and an old town stop) roughly every 20 minutes during the day. The ride is about 15–20 minutes. The minibus is white and labeled “Selçuk-Şirince.” Flag it down, pay the driver (around 40 TL in 2025), and ride to the village entrance, where the vehicle comes to a full stop. (Drivers will shout “Şirince” to signal the stop.) The street is narrow at the top, but the minibus maneuvers into the village. The valley bus station marks the terminus – all passengers disembark together.
• Walking (for the adventurous): A scenic footpath climbs from Selçuk to Şirince through olive groves. It’s about 8 km and can take 2–2.5 hours of steady hiking uphill. Signs for “Şirince” are posted along the rural route. The path gains about 350 meters of elevation; sturdy shoes are advised. This is popular with trekkers who may stop at roadside pavilions or farms along the way. If you enjoy exercise, it can be an unforgettable introduction to the countryside. (Be sure to carry water – shade is patchy.)
• Taxi or Tour: A yellow taxi from Selçuk takes about 15 minutes and costs around €25–30 (in local currency) one-way. Many travelers agree in advance to hire the taxi as needed. Some also book a private day tour from Selçuk or Kuşadası; these usually include a stop in Şirince plus other sites. While tours add cost, they handle all logistics and can enrich the experience with commentary.

From Kuşadası: By Bus, Minibus or Private Transfer

Kuşadası is a large resort town on the Aegean coast, about 27 km south of Şirince by road. There is no direct bus to Şirince, but the trip is simple:

• Dolmuş via Selçuk: Take an intercity bus or dolmuş from Kuşadası to Selçuk (Kamil Koç and other carriers run frequent 25‑minute routes; Rome2Rio notes ~200–290 TL one way). Once in Selçuk, transfer to the local Şirince dolmuş as above. In total the journey takes about 1–1.5 hours depending on connections.
• Direct Taxi/Transfer: A taxi from Kuşadası to Şirince (27 km) takes ~30 minutes. However, expect to pay roughly 600–800 TL (about €35–50) for the trip – far more than the scenic public transport route. Many hotels or cruise excursions offer private transfers, which may be cost-effective if splitting among 3–4 travelers.
• Car: Driving yourself is fastest – from Kuşadası, head east via the D.505 highway to Selçuk and then follow signs for Şirince (about 35 minutes total).

Combining Şirince with Ephesus

Because Şirince sits in the shadow of Ephesus, many itineraries include both. The village is only about 8 km from the Ephesus site. A typical plan is to visit the ancient ruins in the cooler morning hours (Ephesus opens at dawn) and then retreat to Şirince for lunch and the afternoon. In fact, going to Ephesus first often makes sense: you’ll arrive at Şirince by midday sun, ready for food and wine. Alternatively, some travelers prefer to start early in Şirince when it is quiet, then descend to Ephesus later (Ephesus can also be visited very early or late in the day to avoid crowds).

By road, İzmir→Selçuk→Ephesus→Şirince is a loop that can be done in a day. The distance from Ephesus to Şirince is about 8 km (the same Selçuk–Şirince road). Most tour buses combine both, but independent travelers can simply take the Selçuk bus to Ephesus, return to town, then switch to the Şirince minibus, or vice versa.

Navigating the Village

Once in Şirince, no car is needed. The village proper is extremely compact, and all attractions are within a few minutes’ walk of each other. The main thoroughfare is a single sloping street lined with cafes, wine houses, and shops. Its surface is uneven cobblestone in places, and many side lanes ascend or descend via steps. Locals use mopeds, but visitors should plan to walk everywhere. Wear sturdy shoes (corduroy cobbles can be slippery); the guides recommend comfortable sneakers.

The village center forks: one branch climbs past Artemis Restaurant to St. John’s Church, while the other winds past old homes to St. Demetrius Church. Throughout, fat cats roam the ruins, and fruit trees overhang the lanes. Don’t be shy about stopping to photograph or ask directions – people are used to tourists and very welcoming. There are no public transit or cars to worry about once you arrive, so navigating is simply a matter of foot traffic.

Accessibility in Şirince

Travelers with limited mobility should note that Şirince’s narrow streets and slopes can pose challenges. One guide on accessible travel observes that the village “has more accessible streets” than the steep ruins of Ephesus, but “some areas are steep”. In practice, the main street is relatively level, but many cafes and shops are on stair-stepped verandas. The churches each require climbing a short flight of steps up a hill. Wheelchair users will find most hotels and restaurants accessible at the ground level (ramps are often added), but venturing beyond the main lane can be difficult. Companion assistance is useful. In any case, Şirince is far easier to traverse than the uneven stones of ancient sites, and visitors often manage with care and occasional help.

Top 15 Things to Do in Şirince: A Complete Experience Guide

1. Wander the Cobblestone Streets & Discover Hidden Alleys. Lose yourself in the village’s rustic charm. Begin at the lower square and stroll upward on the stone street, observing the architecture: whitewashed walls, finely carved wooden window frames and lattices, and tiled porticos that hint at the craftsmen’s skill. Look for old stone fountains and the faded paint of old shop signs. Turn off the main street into unmarked alleys: you may find a quiet courtyard of fig trees or a tiny craftsman’s workshop. Climb to a terrace where narrow passageways converge and watch the light shift on the red-tiled roofs below. Every twist yields a vignette – a tapestry of balconies and geraniums rather than mere tourism “sites.” (Tip: early morning is magical before shops open and tour buses arrive.)
2. Go Fruit Wine Tasting: A Connoisseur’s Guide. Şirince’s fame rests on its fruit wines (meyve şarapları), and a tasting is obligatory. Step into any of the village’s “wine houses” (şarap evi) – often simple wooden-latticed shops – and you’ll be poured small glasses of homemade tipples. The spectrum is astonishing: cherry, strawberry, peach, melon, kiwi, apricot, pomegranate, sour cherry (vişne), even unconventional ones like mulberry or elderberry (murver). These are not grape wines but fermented fruit juices, more floral and sweet. One local expert told a visitor he personally favored blackberry, and indeed many crave the velvety depth of Şirince’s mulberry wine.Taste widely. Start with pale and delicate flavors like çilek (strawberry) or şeftali (peach), which are light and perfumed. Then sample the darker berries: mulberry (karadut) has a jammy richness; cherry (vişne) brings bright tartness. Don’t miss the unusual murver (elderberry/elderflower) with real bits of fruit for texture. After a few samples you’ll see why one traveler quipped that without a guide, “the wine scene in Şirince isn’t like any old or new world wine destination” – it requires an open mind and a sweet tooth.Can You Drink the Wine in Şirince? Yes. These fruit wines have no strictly enforced age limits (though they do contain alcohol). They are often sold in unfiltered bottles with proof pasted on. Many visitors, however, treat tasting as sampling and seldom over-indulge; even so, the combination of hilly streets and youthful fermentation can surprise the weary. It’s wise to pace yourself, perhaps have lunch between flights, and definitely carry water.Comparative Review: Kaplankaya vs. Kıvırcık (and others). A handful of family-run vineyards bottle multiple varieties. Kaplankaya and Kıvırcık are among the better-known. Kaplankaya (on the main street) feels like an old tavern; customers mention it has a warm atmosphere and a dozen house wines. Kıvırcık Wine House (up the street) is beloved for its panoramic balcony and attentive staff. Both offer similar lineups – whites like peach and melon, reds from sour cherry or mulberry – but palates differ. Some visitors praise Kıvırcık’s focus on crisp sweetness and educational tastings. Others prefer Kaplankaya’s homely feel and broad selection. The truth is, virtually every wine shop in Şirince serves fruit wine, and visiting a few is the best way to compare. In practice, all village wines lean sweet; if you seek dryness, ask if they have any yakut (gem-colored) small-batch reds fermented longer.
3. What Is Şirince Famous For? The Trinity of Wine, History, and Handicrafts. By now you know about the wine. The second pillar is the village’s layered history – from Greek trader village to modern Turkish remnant. Seek out that story: in addition to the churches, visit the little “toy museum” (a restored schoolhouse) where relics of old Şirince are kept. Scattered around are plaques or old photos depicting life in the 19th century. Pause at a shop run by descendants of the Macedonian resettlers; they’ll gladly recount how their grandparents walked here from Kavala with vines on their backs. Seeing the graceful architecture and imagining people—first Greeks, then Turks—coexisting gives greater meaning to everything you see.The third hallmark is local handicrafts and specialties. In the bazaar area you’ll find handmade olive-oil soaps scented with thyme or rose; jars of Aegean olive oil and preserves of sour cherry or fig; natural textiles and embroidered linens; and, of course, souvenirs of vineyards. These goods are tied to Şirince’s identity as an agrarian community. When shopping, distinguish between artisanal products (small soaps, knitted dolls, spongy cheese puffs called “Syrniki,” or jars of syrup) and plain tourist trinkets. Vendors expect bargaining, but haggle gently – prices are modest anyway. Remember that shopping local also helps preserve these crafts.
4. Visit St. John the Baptist Church (Aziz Yuhannes Kilisesi). Sitting on a terrace above the village, this restored stone church (sometimes simply called “the Old Church”) dates to the early 1800s. It was financed by a wealthy benefactor (Kallinikos of Siphnos) and consecrated around 1805. A century later, the earthquake of 1881 (or 1899) reportedly destroyed its predecessor, but the new church survived. In recent decades it fell into ruin until local and international funds triggered a full restoration by about 2000.Enter through the courtyard to see its simple nave: columns divide three aisles under a wooden roof. Although the frescoes on the interior walls have faded, you can still glimpse Orthodox iconography and marble relics. A particularly charming legend is that this church once stored wine. According to local lore (and a guidebook note), the church’s vaulted basement “was traditionally used for maturing locally produced wines”. Whether or not that is strictly true, it fits the village spirit. After touring the cool interior, climb a bit higher behind the church to a viewpoint shaded by cypress; the vista sweeps over the tile roofs down to the olive groves.
5. Explore St. Demetrius Church (Aziz Dimitrios Kilisesi). A short walk northeast of St. John’s, you’ll find a second church built into the hillside. This one is older – perhaps begun in the 17th century – and fell into dereliction in the 20th century. Photographs from 2010 show its roof and vault collapsed. However, in recent years a devoted restoration (completed around 2015) rebuilt its form. Today it stands again as a whitewashed chapel with a new tile roof.Inside, note the original carved iconostasis (the wooden screen of icons), which survived and now gleams beneath fresh paint. The orientation faces east as usual, but from the vestibule of this church one gets a sweeping view: olive groves and fields stretch westward to Selçuk’s plain. It is customary to pause on the outcrop behind the church, where locals have placed benches and even a small teahouse kiosk. This is a peaceful spot for reflection or a glass of tea after the climb.
6. Master the Art of Turkish Coffee Brewed on Sand. In Şirince you will see a curious sight: coffees on beach sand. At a few cafés (look for “Kumda Türk Kahvesi” on menus), servers heat copper cezve pots atop a pan of hot sand. This Ottoman-age method gently warms the coffee without burning it, resulting in a thick brew with perfectly done foam. When in doubt, order it “şekerli” (with sugar) – Turks traditionally add sugar to prevent bitterness. Sipping this dark, foamy coffee (served in tiny tulip glasses) is a local ritual of hospitality and conversation. Watch the servant stir the coffee by hand and lift out the pot – the smell of ground cardamom may perfume it. Don’t drink too quickly; the last sip is richest.
7. Shop at the Şirince Bazaar: What to Buy and How to Barter. Şirince’s main street is lined with small shops under wooden pergolas. Each displays goods on tables or carts: bottles of wine, stacks of soaps shaped like flower petals, bowls of candies (locally called akide), woven textiles, and honey jars. The colors and aromas are immediately inviting. Important advice: haggle judiciously. Sellers expect tourists, but prices are not inflated by euros; a bit of friendly bargaining is part of the fun.When shopping, focus on authenticity. Good buys include olive-oil soap (rich and moisturizing, often scented with lavender or rose), home-pressed olive oil in decorative tins, jars of nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses) and thick grape syrup (pekmez). If buying textiles or lace, ask the story – some handicrafts are genuinely handcrafted by village women. Save souvenir fridge magnets and “I ❤️ Şirince” keychains for Istanbul; here, the real treasures are the village’s foodstuffs and artisan goods. The bazaar atmosphere is relaxed – one shopkeeper might pour you a shot of hardaliye (mustard seed grape drink) or let you taste an olive. Absorb the scene, but also keep an eye on your belongings; while locals are friendly, crowds can be hustly in midday.
8. Take a Cooking Class: Learn the Secrets of Aegean Cuisine. For hands-on immersion, consider a village cooking workshop. Several local chefs offer half-day classes in their homes. You might learn to roll yaprak sarması (vine leaves stuffed with herb rice), knead gozleme dough, or mix çevirme (fresh tomato salad with village herbs). Often classes include foraging or market ingredients (like wild herbs or feta-type cheese). By cooking and then dining on the results with your hosts, you not only eat well but connect with the agrarian roots of Şirince’s fare. (One noted cooking school at the Nisanyan Hotel combines a lesson with an underground wine tasting – checking schedules in advance is wise.)
9. Visit the Nesin Mathematics Village: An Unexpected Intellectual Haven. Just 800 meters north of the village is a remarkable site – the Nesin Matematik Köyü. Founded in the 2000s by philanthropist Ali Nesin (son of the famous thinker Aziz Nesin), this is an education compound dedicated to mathematics. It includes dormitories, classrooms, a library, and even its own rock-carved facade. In summer it hosts mathematicians and students from around the world for a simple rural camp.The architecture pays tribute to tradition: limestone rubble walls, red tile roofs, and shaded courtyards echo Şirince’s style. Visitors are welcome to walk the grounds. Signposts humorously number buildings “Room 42,” “Library,” and the colossal Rock Tomb – an Ionic pediment carved into the cliff by Sevan Nisanyan, inspired by Lycia. Even if math is not your passion, the village is worth a photo stop for its serenity and oddity. On certain dates the campus opens for public events or talks, so check if there is a lecture or an exhibition.
10. See a Show at the Theatre-Madrasa (Tiyatro Medresesi). Also on the Nesin campus is a small open-air theater styled after an Ottoman-era madrasa courtyard. Built by Nisanyan, it hosts plays and concerts under the night sky during summer evenings. The stone-walled performance space is intimate, with wooden benches set around a central stage. In season, the program includes folk music, local dramas, or even university lectures. Attending a performance here is a unique blend of village ambience and culture. (Tickets are sold locally; if you see a flier on a shop or cafe, reserve seats early.)
11. Hike the Hills for Breathtaking Panoramic Views. Şirince’s elevation yields splendid overlooks. Apart from the church terraces, one especially lovely hike climbs a ridge west of town. A footpath begins behind the old mosque and winds up through scrub and olive groves. After about 30 minutes you emerge on a ridge with 360-degree views: the olive-limned valley, the red roofs of Selçuk, and in the distance the towering mount of Mimas (Büyük Madra). Sunset from here bathes the village in golden light. Another option is the trail to the ruined Monastery of Panagia Galata (Sütini Cave) on the way to Selçuk – it features Byzantine frescoes (though crumbling) and was once a hermit’s chapel. In general, sunlight glinting off the Aegean at dawn or dusk is spectacular from any hillside above Şirince.
12. The Ultimate Photography Guide to Şirince. Photographers, beware: everywhere you look is picture-perfect. Capture details as well as vistas. Early morning provides foggy softness on the rooftops; late afternoon yields warm sidelight on the stones. Key compositions: the main street curving uphill lined with grapevine canopies; the white domes of the churches framed by bougainvillea; close-ups of weathered wood, hand-lettered signs in Turkish and Greek, or children playing under an apricot tree. Don’t miss the panoramic shot from the hilltop path just above the village (reachable by a short climb from the café by St. Demetrius). When people blur into the frame, you convey life. Otherwise the geometry of doors, alleys, and steps can stand alone as art. (And yes, red geraniums on balconies and cats on doorsteps are obligatory subjects.)
13. Olive Oil Tasting: Discovering Another Local Treasure. Besides wine, Şirince produces fine olive oil. Many tables in town will serve bread dipped in extra-virgin olive oil flavored with oregano or lemon. You can visit a local estate (some tours combine olive groves and wine) to see traditional pressing. In late autumn, look out for guests being invited to stomp ripe olives or taste new harvest oil. The flavor is fruity and green – a reminder that the Aegean climate is perfect for olives as well as grapes. Shops sell olive oil in decorative pitchers; tasting the inky liquid with sea salt and raki (sipping anise spirit) is a classic mezze experience.
14. Observe the Architecture: A Deep Dive into Historic Şirince Houses. Şirince’s allure comes largely from its built heritage. Take the time to study the classic house designs: stone ground floors with wooden upper levels, cantilevered balconies with spindle railings, and tiled roof eaves that overhang the walls. Many were built in the late Ottoman era using local timber and stone. The underside of a balcony might display a hand-carved family initials or date. Peep into any open door – you might glimpse a cool stone room with sunlight through a stained glass window. The main thoroughfare was declared a protected site (milestone, not a cliché); indeed, no new construction is allowed to disrupt the village’s historic texture. This watchfulness means Şirince looks almost frozen at a certain period – a boon for the preservationist eye. If you have extra time, look up “Nisanyan Konak”, a beautifully restored mansion-turned-guesthouse where one can see traditional Aegean house layout: inner courtyard, fountain, and carved lintels.
15. Talk to a Local: Stories Beyond the Shopfronts. The most memorable experiences often come from people. Sit in a café and strike up a conversation: an old lady rolling out börek dough might tell you about her family’s migration stories; a young student at the math village café can explain how Şirince is different from big cities. At a bench or in a small restaurant, you’ll meet residents who grew up hearing Greek songs, speaking Turkish, or telling tales of the doomsday tourists. Listen to their accents (flavors of Istanbul or Macedonia) and histories – it will deepen your understanding. Most villagers take quiet pride in Şirince’s fame yet are content with its humble pace. By the time you leave, you will likely feel you’ve become part of their narrative, not merely a fleeting visitor.

A Culinary Journey Through Şirince: What to Eat and Drink

The Famous Fruit Wines: A Guide to Every Flavor

If Şirince’s signature is fruit wine, let us raise a glass to it. Stroll any street and bottles of şarap in every shade line the shelves. Flavors abound:

• Peach (şeftali şarabı): Golden-hued, sweet, softly floral. Great chilled.
• Strawberry (çilek): Light pink, candy-sweet with fresh berry fragrance.
• Mulberry (karadut): Deep red, like thin plum wine, surprisingly rich.
• Cherry (vişne): Tart ruby red, akin to a fine cherry liqueur.
• Pomegranate (nar şarabı): Dark coral with a tang, refreshing.
• Quince (ayva): Amber, perfume of cooked fruit.
• Elderberry (murver/mürver): Very dark, musky-sweet; often served with fruit bits inside. Villagers say this “superfruit” wine is their favorite summer cooler.

Most are semi-sweet to sweet. Which is the best? That depends on your taste. For something refreshing, try the elderberry or peach (delicate, won’t overpower). For depth, try dark mulberry or sour cherry. Locals love nar (pomegranate) for its balance. If you prefer a drier note, ask for the traditional grape red (small quantities are made, but less common). The wine is often served in tulip-shaped shot glasses alongside a glass of water and local cheese or fruit sweets to cleanse the palate. Many shops allow small tasting flights.

Must-Try Local Dishes

Şirince’s cuisine is simple Aegean fare, rich in olive oil and herbs. Key dishes and drinks:

• Gözleme: Found at village breakfast spots. Thin hand-rolled dough filled with cheese, spinach, or potato, then sealed and grilled on a convex pan. It’s a staple breakfast or snack. Watch a grandmother at a wooden table – she will roll and seal each one deftly.
• Mürver Şurubu (Elderflower Syrup): A special summer drink. Elders gather flowers, steep them in cold water for days, then boil with lemon and sugar into a syrup. You get it diluted with water or seltzer – sweet, floral and utterly refreshing on a warm day. (Not alcoholic; the wine murver is elderberry wine.) Mürver is especially traditional around July.
• Herb Dishes and Meze: The Aegean diet means lots of greens. Try pazı (chard or Swiss chard) sautéed with olive oil and garlic. Aci Biber (hot pepper) dishes are common – a salad of roasted peppers with olive oil and garlic. For a snack, Turkish coffee cafes often serve otlu peynir (spicy herb cheese) or öğütlük herb omelet. Small restaurants will have mezes like stuffed peppers with rice, or dolma (vine leaves stuffed with spiced rice).
• Local Sweet Treats: In pastry shops buy Şirince tatlısı, a kind of spiral phyllo pastry drenched in syrup, often filled with walnuts. Also try lokum (Turkish delight) in exotic flavors like rose, mint or sour cherry.

Best Restaurants in Şirince: From Budget Bites to Fine Dining

Şirince’s dining scene centers on cozy taverns and cafés (no high-end hotels). Here are a few standouts:

• Artemis Restaurant: Perched at the village entrance with a terrace overlooking Şirince, Artemis is a celebrated spot. It occupies a stone building with panoramic views. They serve hearty Anatolian fare: etli kuru fasulye (meat stewed beans), meze platters, and fruit wines. (Note: Artemis can feel pricier due to its view, but prices are only moderately above local average.) It’s lovely at sunset.
• Şirincem Restaurant: Directly opposite Artemis, Şirincem is family-run (its owners also grow fruit on nearby orchards). The menu emphasizes homey flavors – imagine lamb stews, stuffed grape leaves, and wood-fired breads. Don’t skip their mezze or the fresh salads tossed tableside. Şirincem, too, lists a full wine selection from the village’s producers.
• Üzüm Café: For light fare and coffee, try Üzüm Café (meaning “Grape Cafe”) mid-village. It has a shaded patio and hosts acoustic music at times. They serve good Turkish coffee, homemade lemonade or elderflower juice, and gözleme made in front of you. It’s the kind of spot where locals play backgammon and tourists linger over afternoon coffee.
• Armenian Bakery (Taş Kahve): A hole-in-the-wall with stone oven pastries – their olive-oil flatbread and borek (filo pastries) are delicious, often sold with a thick yogurt drink called ayran.
• Where the Locals Eat: Look for pension or “saray” kitchens down alleyways, where simple home cooking is served (pilaf, stews, soups). These can be very cheap and filling, and a chance to sit where only Turks dine.

Where to Stay in Şirince: From Historic Mansions to Boutique Hotels

Şirince has several quaint lodging options in renovated Ottoman houses. The choices range from luxury boutique to modest guesthouse:

• Restored Mansion Inns: The top end includes places like Güllü Konakları – a beautifully restored 18th-century stone mansion set in a garden. Rooms feature antique furniture and traditional decor. Sleek bathrooms meet carved wood and ornate fireplaces. It’s centrally located and luxurious by village standards. (Note: Güllü Konak has only a handful of rooms, so booking well in advance is wise.) Another splurge choice is the old Ali Rıza house, similarly dressed in period style. These places give the sense of living in a time capsule of rural Ottoman life.
• Sevan Nişanyan’s Nisanyan Houses: Famous for having revived Şirince’s heritage, Nişanyan opened a boutique hotel and café in restored houses. (As [38†L302-L310] notes, today the brand still exists, though political events have affected operations.) These rooms are charming and come with theatrical settings (the property has an amphitheater and library). However, note that the Nişanyan enterprise in Şirince has had a complicated history, and not all original services may be available.
• Mid-Range Pansiyonlar: There are numerous family-run guesthouses (pansiyon) tucked into the village. Kırkınca, Erdem Konağı and At Çiftliği are well-regarded examples. They offer comfortable rooms (often with decorative tile, woodwork, and a scenic balcony) at moderate prices. Many include a Turkish breakfast spread on their terrace. Rates in 2025 for a double room in these charming homes run around 150–300 TL ($15–30) per night, very reasonable for such ambiance.
• Budget Stays: A few simple pensions without much frill still exist for the thrifty traveler. These might share bathrooms or have fewer amenities, but they can still be clean and comfortable (typically €10–20 per person). Most of these are down the side streets – ask any shop owner if they know a friendly pension.

Booking Advice: Şirince has only a couple of hundred rooms total, and many people come on day trips, so accommodations fill up quickly in peak season (May–September) and around holidays. To experience evening ambiance (dinner on a quiet terrace, village lit only by lanterns), plan to stay overnight. For mid-summer travel, book months ahead. Off-season (late fall to early spring) is quieter and prices drop; some pensions close in winter. If you want a historic feel, prioritize the restored mansions; for a cozy modern stay, look for those that advertise local decor but updated bathrooms.

Sample Itineraries for Every Traveler

• Perfect Day Trip from Ephesus or Kuşadası: Depart early from Izmir (or Istanbul) to reach Şirince by mid-morning. Spend the morning wandering Şirince’s lanes, visiting the churches (#4–5 above), and tasting fruit wine. Have lunch at a terrace restaurant (Artemis or Şirincem). In the afternoon, head down to Ephesus (8 km away) to tour the ruins by sunset. Alternatively, reverse the order: Ephesus in the cooler morning, Şirince for a relaxing afternoon. Return to İzmir or your cruise port by nightfall.
• A Relaxing 2-Day/1-Night Şirince Getaway: Day 1: Arrive in Selçuk in the morning, transfer to Şirince, and drop bags at your hotel. Explore the village on foot: churches, wine-tasting, bazaar shopping and lunch. In the evening dine under the stars (Artemis has a romantic terrace). Stay overnight in a boutique inn. Day 2: Enjoy a leisurely Turkish breakfast, then take a half-day excursion (see “Beyond”). Return after lunch, or spend the afternoon in Selçuk exploring the Isa Bey Mosque and Ephesus museum before heading home. This itinerary allows an unhurried, immersive experience.
• Culture & History Buff’s Weekend: Day 1: Visit Şirince’s core attractions (churches, old schoolhouse museum, village architecture) and hear locals’ stories. Day 2: Hike to Nesin Mathematics Village and see Theatre-Madrasa (#9–10). Spend an afternoon at nearby sites: climb up to the House of the Virgin Mary (Meryemana) and see the Isa Bey Mosque in Selçuk. End at Ephesus before dusk. This schedule emphasizes context and less touristy views.

Beyond the Village: Exploring Şirince’s Surroundings

Şirince merits more than a single day if you have time; its region is rich with UNESCO sights:

• The Ancient City of Ephesus: Just 8 km away, this world-class archaeological site is the reason many detour to Şirince. Ephesus is vast and demands a half-day to see highlights: the Library of Celsus, Grand Theatre, and sprawling Agora. Plan at least 2–3 hours for the core ruins, earlier for a guided tour. Note that UNESCO prohibits photography fees and requires sensible attire.
• The House of the Virgin Mary (Meryem Ana Evi): Located on nearby Mt. Koressos, this modest stone house is revered by Christians and Muslims alike as the last home of Mary. It’s a pilgrimage site reached by a hilly drive west of Selçuk. The setting is tranquil (olive groves and pine) and the church is simple. If your visit coincides with the monthly 2nd-of-the-month holy mass, expect crowds of the devout. Otherwise it’s a peaceful shrine with gentle views.
• Selçuk’s Historic Monuments: The town of Selçuk (gateway to Ephesus) has its own attractions. The 14th-century Isa Bey Mosque near the castle is an elegant early Ottoman mosque with Inca tilework. The Basilica of St. John (5th–6th century) is partly excavated and worth a quick look on high ground. The Archäologisches Museum Selcuk displays statues excavated at Ephesus, including the famous Artemis of Ephesus and the Celsus head. And don’t miss the even older Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) – only its foundations remain in a sheep field, but a reconstructed column and a couple of carved blocks stand as memorials.

Practical Information & Traveler FAQ

• Best Time of Year to Visit: Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are ideal. The weather is mild, wildflowers or fall foliage adorn the hills, and crowds are moderate. Summers (July–August) are hot and crowded, especially with tour buses – water and sun protection are essential. Winters are quiet but many accommodations close; only the hardiest visit in rain or cool weather. Note: Şirince’s doomsday fame attracted winter visitors in 2012, but outside that season the village is nearly deserted in winter months.
• How Much Time Do You Need for Şirince? A genuine experience requires at least 4–6 hours on site, not including travel time. This lets you walk the main street, visit both churches, and enjoy a relaxed lunch or wine tasting. An overnight stay (2 days) is recommended to feel the village’s calm and avoid rushing. As one guide suggests, “spend two days immersing yourself in its atmosphere” for full appreciation. If you are only passing through, half a day (3–4 hours) will suffice to hit the highlights; arrange transportation back so you’re not stranded after the last dolmuş (around 8–9 PM).
• Is Şirince Very Touristy? The main street is tourist-oriented, but not in a heavy souvenir-crowded way. You will share it with day-trippers in summer, but many visitors come for the genuineness. To avoid crowds, come early or late in the day. Outside mid-summer, the village feels authentic rather than theme-park-like. Local shopkeepers are alert to genuine cultural interest and generally polite to inquisitive travelers. (At the same time, keep in mind this is a working village – dinnertime is followed quietly, and shouting or littering is frowned upon.)
• Money, ATMs, and Connectivity: Carry cash. There are a few ATMs in Selçuk and one small machine in Şirince near the entrance, but it can run out or charge higher fees. Credit cards are accepted at hotels and larger restaurants, but many wine shops and cafés are cash-only. Wires/cables are above ground; Wi-Fi is limited to some hotels and cafes (your room or the restaurant likely has it, if you ask). Mobile signal is good (Turkcell/Vodafone) since Şirince is not far from Selçuk.
• Restrooms: Public restrooms (paid) are available near the bottom of town by the municipal square. Otherwise, use restaurants’ facilities (usually after a small purchase).
• Language: Turkish is spoken, but many locals (especially younger ones) also know bits of English or German from tourists. Remember “Teşekkür ederim” (thank you) or even “Çok güzel” (very beautiful) goes far.
• Safety: Şirince is safe and quiet. Just take usual precautions (lock bikes, watch personal items). The only natural hazard is the steep drop-offs on some alleyways – railings are minimal, so watch kids.

Conclusion: The Enduring Magic of Şirince Köyü

From its ancient hilltop, Şirince has looked over the swings of history – Hellenistic grove, Greek village, Ottoman tapestry, and modern Turkish community. Each layer is still visible in its stones and stories. Yet today Şirince is no relic. It is a lively village that welcomes the stranger as neighbor, offering the warmth of home: a poured glass of wine, a table of plain but hearty food, and tales of days gone by. In Şirince’s steady pace and lived-in charm lies a powerful simplicity that eludes over-promising descriptions.

For the curious traveler, Şirince is enchanting not because it offers grand monuments or luxury resorts, but because it embodies a way of life. After walking its sunlit lanes and sipping its wines, one comes away with a sense of having touched something real and gentle in this rapidly changing world. The memory that endures is of warmth – the stone walls warmed by the Aegean sun, the people warmed by hospitality.

Şirince may once have branded itself “Ugly,” but perhaps that was a deliberate modesty. In truth, it is one of Turkey’s prettiest villages, not just in view, but in spirit. Whether you arrive seeking history, wine, or simply quiet beauty, Şirince repays the curious with a blend of all three. Few destinations so ably merge the empirical and the poetic: here, every footstep is an encounter with history, and every sip of wine a measure of cultural continuity. It is precisely this harmonious authenticity – so rare in a world of packaged tourism – that makes Şirince Köyü an indispensable chapter in any Anatolian adventure.