Nestled between the Black Sea and the Anatolian interior, the Küre Mountains National Park (KMNP) is one of Turkey’s most remarkable and underappreciated wild areas. Established on July 7, 2000, this vast park (37,753 hectares, roughly 93,300 acres) spans Kastamonu and Bartın provinces in the Northern Anatolian range. It stretches along a rugged spine 300 km long between the Bartın River on the west and the Kızılırmak on the east. Here, dense primeval forests of beech, fir, pine and oak cloak sheer limestone cliffs, carving out deep canyons and hidden valleys. Fifty or more remote waterfalls tumble down mossy walls, and nearly a hundred caves lie scattered in the karst terrain.

This wild landscape is globally important for conservation. WWF Turkey has recognized the region’s intact woodlands, endemic plants and rare wildlife – even bestowing upon the Ilıca Waterfalls and their district the title “Turkey’s gift to nature”. Indeed, KMNP is one of Europe’s 100 forest “hotspots” identified by WWF, celebrated for its biodiversity and old-growth forests. In its mixture of temperate (Euro-Siberian), Mediterranean and Irano-Turanian ecosystems, the park holds an astonishing wealth of life. Surveys have recorded some 930 plant taxa (including 157 endemics) and dozens of species of birds and mammals. Many of Turkey’s native fauna – brown bears, wild boar, wild cat, otters – roam these forests. Eagles and vultures wheel above the steep valleys. As one travel writer notes, “stunning scenery and diverse hiking options…wildlife is abundant” (despite its remoteness).

At a glance, KMNP’s key facts impress: Established: 2000 (Turkey’s 41st national park). Area: ~37,753 ha core (80,000 ha including buffer). Elevation: average ~500m, rising to ~2000m in peaks. Location: straddles Kastamonu Province (Pınarbaşı, Azdavay) and Bartın Province (near Ulus), as well as nearby Karabük (Safranbolu), Sinop (Şenpazar) and parts of Amasra/Bartın coastal area. Biodiversity: old-growth mixed forests; 930 vascular plants, 129 birds, 48 mammals recorded. Highlights: Valla Canyon (deepest), Horma Canyon (walkway to Ilıca Waterfall), Ilıca Waterfall (emerald pool), Ilgarini Cave (ancient monastery ruins), plus dozens of unnamed gorges and cliffs. The park is also a “Pan Parks” certified area and part of several WWF ecotourism projects, reflecting its conservation value.

Is it worth visiting? The answer for nature lovers is an emphatic yes. Despite easy comparisons to better-known canyons abroad, KMNP retains a remote, largely wild character. Visitors remark on feeling “away from the tourist conveyor belt”, greeted instead by forested peaks, crystal-clear mountain springs and quiet villages. Recent investments – safe viewing platforms, marked trails, and community lodgings – make exploration feasible without destroying the park’s spirit. The effort is repaid by panoramic vistas (some locals quip there’s “no need to go to Arizona” when Kastamonu has similar canyons), encounters with bears or deer in the woods, and the joy of rushing waterfalls unseen by most tourists. In short, for those seeking a wild Turkey, KMNP delivers in spades.

Planning Your Adventure: The Essential Trip Planner

What is the Best Time to Visit?

Küre Mountains experience a mix of Black Sea and continental climate. Winters (Dec–Mar) are cold and snowy: average highs near +5°C and lows below freezing. By early spring, snowmelt feeds roaring cascades, and from May onward the forests burst into green. Summers (Jun–Aug) are warm (mid-20s°C) but relatively mild compared to the coast. Rainfall is year-round, peaking in autumn (especially October), and December is the cloudiest month.

For hikers and photographers, two windows stand out. Late spring (May–June) brings wildflower bloom, brisk waterfalls and cooler air. Temperatures in May typically range 10–20°C, and daylight is long. This is when high snowlines retreat and trails open up, though occasional rain can muddy mountain paths. Early autumn (September–October) offers crisp days and foliage turning gold. September averages 15–25°C, and on sunny days the angles of light make canyon walls glow. Fall nights are chilly but usually frost hasn’t arrived yet. These shoulder seasons also see fewer crowds. (A Turkey travel guide notes: “best time … May and September… mild and generally dry”.)

Summer (July–Aug) is peak season: the weather is reliably clear and warm (afternoons often 20–25°C). Trails and attractions are busiest now, and the murmur of fellow hikers replaces the solitude of shoulder seasons. Waterfalls like Ilıca remain active, though flow may lessen slightly by late summer. If you go in summer, be prepared for some heat (and mosquitoes) in sheltered valleys. Winter visits are possible for the determined: skiing or snowshoeing is spectacular in fresh snow, and Horma’s wooden canyon walk might even be iced over. But many mountain roads and trails (like the Valla Canyon access) will be impassable beneath heavy snow. In short: spring or autumn for best overall experience, summer for stable weather and energy, winter only for hardcore adventure seekers.

How to Get There: A Complete Logistics Guide

KMNP is not on a main tourist trail, so planning transit is key. By Air: The nearest airport is Kastamonu (KFS), with daily flights from Istanbul (1h) and Ankara. Kastamonu city lies about 90 km NE of Pınarbaşı (the park’s main hub). A taxi or rental car from Kastamonu airport takes roughly 1h45 to reach Pınarbaşı/Azdavay (a distance of ~96 km). (Note: taxis run about ₺2400–3000 for the trip, though car rentals or hitching with a guide are cheaper.) For western approaches, Zonguldak Airport (on the Black Sea coast, ~120 km west of the park) also has limited flights; from there it is ~2.5h drive to the park’s western end.

By Car: Driving from major cities is straightforward but long. From Istanbul it’s roughly 480 km (5–6h) via Bolu/Safranbolu and Gerede. From Ankara, the distance to Kastamonu is about 340 km (4.5h), with nice highways out of the capital. From the south or east (Ankara), a common route is Bolu – Karabük – Safranbolu – Eflani – Devrekani – Pınarbaşı. The final stretch over forested uplands can be narrow and winding; check weather and road conditions in winter. Regardless of origin, plan fuel and supplies – service stations vanish once you turn off the main roads.

By Bus/Public Transport: Long-distance buses serve Kastamonu city from Istanbul, Ankara, and many other cities. A bus from Istanbul (Otogar) to Pınarbaşı takes about 8½ hours (one overnight option available). Most visitors break the journey in Kastamonu or Safranbolu, then catch a local minibus (“dolmuş”) or taxi to Pınarbaşı. From Kastamonu’s main bus station, state company Metro Turizm runs a daily bus to Pınarbaşı (1h30m, ~₺150–200). There are also buses from Ankara to Kastamonu (4–5 hours). Note that Pınarbaşı’s dolmuş schedules can be sparse; best to arrive in daylight and book ahead if possible.

Within the Park: A car is highly useful. While a few attractions (Horma Canyon, Ilıca) have parking at the trailheads, others like Valla Canyon’s terrace require a steep trail or a shuttle. Rental cars can be arranged in Kastamonu or Pınarbaşı. Alternatively, local ecotourism offices and guesthouses offer guided tours that include transport. Some roads allow circumnavigating the park (e.g. Pınarbaşı – Azdavay – İnebolu), but the best vantage points often involve hiking. In summary, come prepared to self-drive or use local guides – public transport within the park is virtually non-existent.

Where to Stay: Accommodation for Every Budget and Style

Despite its wildness, KMNP offers a surprising range of lodging. Options range from rustic mountain cabins to small hotels in nearby towns.

• Official Park Bungalows (Ilıca and Horma area): The Turkish parks authority operates a small Ilıca Campground and Bungalow complex near the Ilıca Waterfall. It has around 14 bungalows (56 beds) with basic amenities (shared kitchen, dining area). These sit amid forests at ~500m elevation and are ideal for families. Further down Horma Canyon, there is a Government-run Horma Canyon Hotel near the trail entrance – a simple hotel/restaurant in Pınarbaşı district, popular with canyon hikers. (Another similar outpost, Salapura Bungalow, lies near Devrekani River in the park’s southeast.) Booking ahead is wise in summer, as these fill up on weekends.
• Hotels and Pensions: The small towns of Pınarbaşı (Kastamonu) and Azdavay (Kastamonu) serve as basecamps. Pınarbaşı (population ~15,000) has a few mid-range hotels and pensions – names include Park Ilıca Hotel and Kanyon Park Otel. These are modest but clean, with restaurants serving local cuisine. Azdavay (near Çatak Canyon) is quieter, with one or two family-run motels. For a countryside stay, the village of Ilıca (by the waterfall) has an upscale Karadeniz Çamlığı resort. Local guesthouses in nearby villages (Kirazlar, Şeremetler) can also host visitors; these often lack English, so a Turkish-speaking friend helps. In Bartın Province (western side of the park) there is “Küre Dağ Evi”, an idyllic riverside lodge with cabins and camping on the Bartın river (in Ufakalan village).
• Camping: Wild camping is tolerated in much of KMNP, but remember this is a protected area. The only formal campgrounds are the Ilıca site and a simple one at Ilgarini Cave (little more than a field with pit toilets). Campfires are restricted to metal rings (if present) due to summer wildfire risk. Backpackers often pitch tents near Horma Canyon or along the Azdavay plateau. Always camp well off trails, avoid fragile meadows, and follow “leave no trace” ethics (see below). In colder months you’ll need a very warm sleeping bag.

What to Pack: A Gear Checklist for the Mountains

A proper mountain kit makes or breaks the trip. Essentials include:

• Hiking boots: Solid, ankle-supporting boots (waterproof if possible) are a must. Trails around Valla or Horma are rocky and steep. Bring trekking poles for the steep descents.
• Clothing layers: Temperatures can swing wildly. Pack a lightweight, breathable base layer, a warm fleece or wool mid-layer, and a waterproof shell (rain is frequent outside summer). Even in summer it’s wise to have an insulated jacket for high ridges or evening.
• Navigation: Many trails are marked with red-white blazes, but maps are scarce. Carry a detailed topographic map (the KDMP “Kastamonu and Bartın” map covers the park). A GPS device or smartphone with offline maps is helpful—note that cell signal is unreliable in deep valleys.
• Water and food: Streams run clear but should be treated/purified. Pack at least 2–3 liters per person for a full day. High-energy snacks (nuts, dried fruit) and sandwiches are better than relying on sporadic shops. There are small kiosks by the main sites (Ilıca, Horma) but no grocery stores inside the park.
• Sun protection and bug spray: Even in the forest, sunburn and mosquitoes occur. A hat, sunglasses, and repellent keep you comfortable.
• Camera/binoculars: With so much wildlife and scenery, you’ll regret leaving them behind.
• Safety gear: A basic first-aid kit, whistle and flashlight are wise. (Bear spray is not available in Turkey and is technically illegal; the best precaution against bears is making noise on trails and storing food securely.)
• Camping supplies: If you plan to camp, bring a warm tent, sleeping pad, etc. Warm nights drop below 5°C except in summer. A portable stove is good, as open fires are rarely permitted.

In short, treat KMNP like any temperate mountain region: prepare for everything from heat to sleet, and respect the elements.

The Heart of the Park: Exploring the Legendary Canyons

At the core of Küre’s allure are its canyons – immense gorges hewn by ancient rivers. From viewing platforms to forest trails, these chasms define the landscape. The three most famous are Valla, Horma, and the lesser-known Çatak – each with its own character.

Valla Canyon: Turkey’s Deepest Chasm

Valla Canyon (Valla Kanyonu) is the crown jewel. Near Pınarbaşı, this gorge plunges to depths of up to 1,200 meters, making it one of the world’s deepest canyons. The rock walls rise so steeply that locals say “there’s no need to go to Arizona for canyons”. The canyon was formed as the Filyos River (and tributaries) carved down through limestone and sandstone over millennia. The result is a vast open-air cathedral of rock and sky.

Muratbaşı Viewing Terrace

The easiest access to Valla’s grandeur is the Muratbaşı observation terrace. A narrow trail (about 4–5 km one-way) winds uphill from a parking area above Pınarbaşı. The final approach is steep but well-marked. At the rim, the glass-floored terrace juts out over the abyss, where a metal railing frames an unobstructed 180° panorama. On a clear day you can see Akçakoca Bay on the distant Black Sea horizon. The vertigo is intense: look down 700–800 meters to the canyon floor, a seething green river corridor far below. From here the canyon floor itself is mostly inaccessible to casual hikers (steep cliffs, private cattle lands). Photography from Muratbaşı yields the classic Valla shot – layers of forested peaks above and deep golden trees below.

Hiking and Safety

No unauthorized hiking is allowed down in Valla Canyon. The slopes are home to bears and sheer chasms; only experienced canyoning expeditions attempt to traverse it (with ropes and local guides). For regular visitors, the experience is from above. The walk back from the terrace is long (the round trip can be 12–15 km). Bring plenty of water and set out early to avoid afternoon haze.

Danger and Precautions

At the rim, winds gust unpredictably. The glass deck has railings, but children should be watched closely. In recent years, local authorities have invested in sturdy safety barriers. Always stay behind guard rails. In general, Valla Canyon is not a place to explore on your own beyond the viewing point. Guided tours are offered by local outfitters, but even guides limit visitors to the rim. As a Daily Sabah feature warns, to “pass through [Valla’s canyons] requires professional knowledge, talent and technical equipment.”

Horma Canyon: The Wooden Walkway to Ilıca Falls

Horma Canyon (Horma Kanyonu) is the more family-friendly highlight, 3 km north of Pınarbaşı. It is narrower than Valla but no less dramatic: the walls rise vertically 150–200m on either side of the Horma Stream. In recent years, a wooden catwalk has been installed along nearly the entire 3 km length. This well-engineered walkway (built into the canyon wall) allows visitors to hike safely from one end to the other.

A typical visit to Horma Canyon starts at its parking area. From there, a short trail leads to the canyon mouth and the beginning of the wooden platform. The path then follows the cliffside along Horma Stream through mixed pine and beech forest. The walk is mostly flat, requiring only a few short treks through the shallow stream (sandals are fine; sneakers can get wet). Picnic tables and resting areas are placed at intervals. The sense of enclosure grows as you progress under rising rock faces draped with ferns.

The 3 km Walk

Over the 3 km walk, you pass under mini-waterfalls, see wildlife (common buzzards, hoopoes), and feel the spray when water flow is high. At summer’s end, the creek is a mere trickle, but in spring one section requires a short scramble through running water. The trail’s endpoint is Ilıca Waterfall: after the walkway ends, a forested footpath of about 500m leads to the cascade’s edge.

Ilıca Waterfall: The Final Reward

Ilıca is a wide, 10–15 meter waterfall dropping into a jade-green plunge pool. (Local lore: despite its name Ilıca – meaning “warm spring” – the water is icy cold year-round.) The setting is lush: aquatic plants, wild ginger, and hornbeams form a natural amphitheater around the falls. In summer, when Horma Canyon traffic peaks, Ilıca offers a refreshing swim in its pool (though there are rumors of medicinal algae, so check local advice). At any season, it is exceptionally photogenic. According to a Dedeman hotel guide: “The water falls about 15 m into a natural pool, which is surrounded by an exotic appearing rich variety of vegetation”.

For photographers, early morning is ideal to capture rainbows in the mist. The site is easily reached: after leaving Horma’s trail, a gentle descent brings you to the base. There is a small café (seasonal) with tea and gözleme pancakes. Facilities are basic, but seating is sheltered and toilets are available. Many families make this a full-day outing: picnic above Horma, walk the catwalk, end at Ilıca for a late lunch overlooking the falls.

Çatak Canyon: The Hidden Gem with a Glass Terrace

Less visited than Valla or Horma, Çatak Canyon lies northwest of Pınarbaşı, near the village of Çatak Göleti (Azdavay district). A small road leads to the canyon’s glass viewing deck. Perched atop the cliffs about 400–450m above the Çatak River, this glass-floor platform offers a vertigo-inducing panorama. From it you see a nearly straight drop into the canyon’s green core. Visitors on TripAdvisor gush “this glass platform flies 400m above the void…amazing photographs of incredible views”.

The trail to Çatak is short (roughly 1 km) and boardwalked in spots. Unlike the wooden catwalk of Horma, here you must tread on glass under your feet. Fear of heights is well-earned; for thrill-seekers it’s a must-see. The canyon itself is narrower and more remote – few people venture inside it. However, Çatak Canyon can be combined with nearby attractions: many hikers continue from the glass deck along trails toward Çatak Pond (Çatak Göleti) and Ecevit Han (an old waystation on the Istiklal Trail, now a teahouse).

Because Çatak is off the beaten path, preserve its quiet charm by visiting in small groups. There is no entrance fee but also no shops on site, so carry water. In short, Çatak Canyon is an adventurous add-on: a photo-stunt worthy of Instagram’s bravest while resting in peaceful woods.

Waterfalls, Caves, and Valleys: Beyond the Main Canyons

KMNP’s wonders do not end with its main gorges. A day (or week) can be spent exploring its waterfalls, caves, and the traditional villages scattered through its valleys.

The Magic of Ilıca Waterfall

Having mentioned Ilıca above, it warrants its own spotlight. Also called Kuzuçayırı Falls, Ilıca is unique for its double role: the endpoint of Horma Canyon and a standalone attraction. Its spring waters are remarkably clear and green – a classic “emerald pool.” The falls pour off a travertine shelf, hinting at the limestone geology beneath. According to the Turkish Nature Foundation, WWF even dubbed the Ilıca site a “Gift to the Earth” for its natural beauty (via its association with Pınarbaşı).

What makes Ilıca special is the combination of accessibility and ambience. Few waterfalls in Turkey have such easy trail access plus year-round flow. It is photogenic in all seasons: in spring it is thundering full of meltwater; by August it is a cool trickle in the pool; in winter it can partly freeze into delicate ice formations. For photographers, the mid-day sun frequently produces rainbows in the mist. For picnic-goers, the shallow wading pool is ideal (especially for children).

Beyond the central falls is a network of smaller cascades and pools. A short, steep trail leads around the cliff to Ilıca’s cousin falls – upper tier drops that tumble through rhododendrons. These side streams teem with aquatic life in summer: frogs, newts, and schools of trout. A final surprise is the Zorgul Waterfall (a 5m drop) further downstream, accessed by a 30-minute forest walk.

Ilgarini Cave: A Journey into the Earth

Roughly midway between Pınarbaşı and Cide lies İlgarini Mağarası, an intriguing sinkhole cave well worth a detour. The cave entrance opens in an oak forest floor at ~950m elevation. It is not deep like the canyons but descends over 260m internally, branching into inner chambers. Most visitors see only the upper level (easy wooden steps lead 150m down).

What sets Ilgarini apart is its archaeological heritage. The cave was used as a late Byzantine monastery (circa 9th–11th centuries). Inside are ruins of a church and at least 16 tombs. Archaeologists have found graves stacked three-deep, separated by wooden beams dating from around 977 AD. In effect, İlgarini is the same site as Chryse Petra, a monastery mentioned in medieval texts. Visitors can still see masonry fragments, carved stone altars, and the bases of columns. (A recent study describes: “In the entrance of the cave, there are remnants of an old village with 10 houses… in the southern branch, many archaeological remains such as graves and temples are located”.)

Biologically, İlgarini hosts rare cave minerals (travertine deposits) and unique ferns clinging to its damp walls. Bats fly in the dusk. To protect the fragile site, cave access is now limited and guided only. You should check with local authorities or guides for permission. The cave mouth is at 35°23′N 33°14′E; after seeing the ruins, a safe platform allows peering into the deep shaft above (rope down if you dare). Notably, this cave has 2 named entries – an “upper” access (more archaeological) and a “lower” entrance (natural speleothem chamber). Both require headlamps if fully explored.

The Serenity of Azdavay and Pınarbaşı Valleys

Outside the gorges, the park’s gentler beauty unfolds in broad valleys. The Azdavay district (west side) is characterized by rolling hills and orchards. Day hikes here lead through walnut groves and apple orchards down to streams. A notable hike follows the Abacı Köprüsu (a 160m-long ancient wooden bridge) to the cascade of Devrekani River. In spring, walnut blossom and almond trees scent the air. Ancient yew and black pine forests cloaking the upper ridges harbor chamois and wolves.

To the east, the Pınarbaşı plateau gently slopes down to the Black Sea. Traditional villages like Kirazlar and Şeremetler cling to hillsides, with terraced gardens of potatoes, cabbage and corn. Local folks still cultivate the distinctive Kastamonu wheat and make yoghurt and cheese in spring. In spring and fall, cowherds bring livestock down from upland pastures into these valleys. The Pınarbaşı valley, crossed by the Devrekani River, is lined by wild cherry and mulberry. In summer, villagers vend homemade chestnut helva and grape molasses at small stands.

Culture intrudes rarely in these rural parts. You might see women in traditional headscarves piling peaches in the barn, or hear the sweet sound of the ney flute at a roadside tea garden. Local schools in these villages are often gatherings of only 10–15 children, preserving a way of life. If time allows, drop into a village köy kahvesi (coffeehouse) for black tea, or ask for gula (cornbread) with local honey – the real taste of the region.

A Biodiversity Hotspot: The Flora and Fauna of Küre Mountains

This park is often described as a “living museum” of nature, and the catalogs of life here are staggering.

Unique Plant Life

KMNP’s forests are remarkably intact. Largely untouched by logging until recently, large stands of old beech and fir dominate the uplands. One guide notes “930 plant taxa” in the park, of which a phenomenal 157 are endemic to this part of Turkey. Among these are several wildflowers and herbs found nowhere else – for example Campanula armeniaca (Armenian bellflower) and Stachys lantanaefolia (a mint relative). The lower slopes feature patches of lush broadleaf; you’ll find hornbeam, maple and sweet chestnut mixed with the conifers. Meadow edges are lined with blackberry brambles, wood anemones in spring, and the ghostly white blooms of wild orchids (especially the rare Cephalanthera species). In autumn, olives and sumac glow alongside orange mushrooms (chanterelles in moist spots).

A special mention goes to wildflowers. Hikers report seeing carpets of pink cyclamen and yellow crocus in October, while the valleys bloom with red tulips (wild Tulipa armena) and blue starflowers in April. Rare Gentiana and Lilium (lilies) mark damp clearings. The botanical diversity is so prized that parks authorities collaborate with Turkish universities; one study used tree rings from the cave’s wooden tombs to date past climates, highlighting how even the flora preserves history.

Wildlife Watching: The Park’s Residents

Mammals: The top predator here is the Eurasian brown bear. These are neither the enormous Siberian type nor the tiny Syrian bear, but well-fed forest bears (Ursus arctos) that routinely roam the park’s high ridges. Sightings are rare (they avoid people), but bear tracks and claw marks on trees are common. Other large mammals include the wild boar and European roe deer; the boar in particular dig up nut and tubers, reshaping the soil. The wild cat (Felis silvestris), a lynx-like feline, still survives in dense thickets. Otters inhabit the rivers. Historically the Anatolian gray wolf has patrols these mountains, though most locals never see one.

Birds: Birdlife is superb. The cliffs and open valleys are ideal for raptors. Himalayan griffon vultures, golden eagles, and peregrine falcons breed on the steep walls. The globally endangered Egyptian vulture has even been recorded. In forested zones you hear woodpeckers drumming and see tits, nuthatches and the rare white-backed woodpecker. Streams and ponds attract ducks and herons in migration. Birders come for the chance to spot the owl species of the night: Tengmalm’s and Eurasian eagle-owls hoot in the forests. The autumn nut and berry season brings flocks of finches, grosbeaks, and even waxwings into the oak groves.

Reptiles & Amphibians: Rocky outcrops near the Black Sea side host Lycian salamanders and Balkan terrapins in wetter hollows. Snakes (grass snake, whip snake) skitter along sunny ledges. At dusk, one might catch a Hyla arborea tree frog glistening on a leaf or the eerie call of a brown frog from a ferny pool. The park’s herpetofauna include a few endemics such as Vipera barani, a venomous viper found only in NW Turkey.

Invertebrates: Though less visible, the insect life is enormous. Broadleaf forests here host dozens of butterfly species – blues and fritillaries in meadows, swallowtails on herbs. Beetles and longhorns carve the deadwood. Biologists have mapped many of these, noting that the park’s buffer zone system has kept agricultural pests and invasive species at bay.

From a conservation standpoint, KMNP is crucial. Its protected corridors allow species like brown bears to disperse across northern Turkey. The combined efforts of park staff, WWF projects, and even local hunters have helped maintain stable game populations. Feeding stations for bears (used to prevent crop-raiding) are controversial but exist. For the visitor, knowledge is power: keeping distance from wildlife is vital. We must remember these forests are the animals’ home, not ours.

The Ultimate Hiking Guide to Küre Mountains National Park

For hikers, KMNP is a paradise of trails, from easy loops to rugged multi-day treks. Here’s how to explore it on foot.

Understanding the Trails: Difficulty and Signage

The park’s trails are mostly unpaved forest roads or footpaths marked with red-white blazes (the Turkish national waymark). Each main trail is assigned a number by the park authority, but fewer maps are available than for popular Turkish treks. Generally:

• Easy (Green) Trails: Well-traveled routes with gentle grade. Example: the Horma Canyon Trail (loop to Ilıca) is ~3 km, boardwalked, no steep climbs, suitable for families.
• Moderate (Blue) Trails: Footpaths through hills, may involve 200–300m elevation change. Example: Valla Canyon View Trail (to Muratbaşı terrace): ~4–6 km round trip with a stiff initial climb, then level.
• Strenuous (Red) Trails: Long hikes with significant ascent/descent (500–700m) on rough terrain. Example: Çatak Canyon Rim or Azdavay Plateau Loop (~8–10 km). These may lack signage at forks, so carry a compass/GPS.
• Expert (Black) Routes: These include sections of the İstiklal Trail (the historic Independence War route) and remote tracks (e.g. Ilgarini descent). Require map, guide, and/or overnight camping.

Trailheads start at parks or villages. The Horma Canyon car park (GPS N 41.4930, E 33.2497) is the usual start for Horma/Ilıca and the Valla trail. The Muratbaşı trailhead (N 41.4442, E 33.2554) starts the Valla hike. For Çatak Canyon, park at Çatak Göleti and walk north. There are also routes linking villages (e.g. Devrekani – Kirazcilar village loop). Most trails are open all day year-round; flashlights needed if hiking near dusk.

Top 5 Day Hikes

1. Horma Canyon to Ilıca Waterfall (Easy, 3 km round-trip). Start at Horma entrance. Walk the wooden catwalk to the end, then follow the forest path to Ilıca. Total time ~2 hours including photo stops. No special gear needed beyond sturdy shoes; suitable for children (water crossings are shallow).
2. Valla Canyon View Trail (Moderate, 8 km loop). Park at Horma or Pınarbaşı, trek up winding forest trail to the Muratbaşı terrace (4 km up, 200m climb). Rest at the viewpoint for an hour, then descend back (different route possible). Time ~4–5 hours. Wear good hiking boots; bring water. There is no shade on the final ridge.
3. Azdavay Valley Loop (Moderate, 8 km). Starting near the Çatak Canyon road, this trail meanders through Azdavay’s oak-fir forests and descends to Uğurlu village, looping back via an old shepherd’s path. It showcases the less-traveled west side. Trail is uneven in places; allow 4–5 hours.
4. Çatak Canyon and Rim (Strenuous, 12 km). Combine the glass terrace viewpoint with a loop around the canyon rim. After visiting the platform, continue east along the ridge trail through beech woods (strenuous ups and downs) to a second overlook. Return via the other side of the creek. High exposure in spots – not for novices. Full day (5–6h) and carry a map.
5. Istiklal (Independence) Trail Segment (Expert, 20 km+). The historic WWI supply route, remade as a hiking path, runs through the KMNP. One day-hike section is from İnebolu/Çuhadoruğu to Ayrancı – passing Ecevit Han (an old coach station) and a plateau (see Multi-Day below). This is the hardest hike, often done over two days, with camping at Ayrancı. Navigation can be tricky off the beaten track.

Multi-Day Treks

For a longer adventure, KMNP connects to broader networks. The newly marked Küre Dağları Trail traverses ~480 km of mountaintops (36 sections). You can pick a comfortable stage or string them together. Ambitious trekkers often link KMNP to the Yenice Forests to the east (resolving into the Black Sea region’s largest oak forests). At the park’s western edge, trails cross into the Safranbolu – Amasra area. The ultimate loop is to follow the Istiklal Trail north to İnebolu, then ship back to your start (or hike the long way round). The park can also serve as a base for the 22-day Evliya Çelebi Way (which skirts southern KMNP) or the scenic Black Sea Coastal Way. However, detailed planning and possibly permits are needed for camping in core zones.

Hiring a Local Guide

Although KMNP trails are marked, hiring a licensed guide yields insight and convenience. Guides can share stories of the Ottoman past, point out hidden orchids, and ensure safety (especially in Valla Canyon rim or winter conditions). They also handle paperwork, transport arrangements and drive narrow forest roads. For example, for Valla Canyon “hiking” (viewing) tours, or canyoning experiences (rope-entry), guides are essentially required. Ask at the Pınarbaşı Nature Conservation office (Zonguldak Yolu 24, 6.9 km on D785) or at hotels. Even for independent trekkers, local guides can be hired per day.

Culture, History, and Cuisine: The Human Story of the Mountains

What is the History of the Küre Mountains?

The Küre Mountains sit at a crossroad of Turkish history. Xenophon, the Greek general, noted here (c. 400 BC) that “going through [the mountains] is impossible” by land. Indeed, the range was a backwater refuge for ancient peoples. Archaeology and local lore trace back to Hittite times (~2nd millennium BC); later came Phrygians and Lydians. In 4th century BC the Persians swept through Anatolia, followed by Alexander the Great’s armies. By the 1st century BC it was part of the Kingdom of Pontus, and subsequently the Roman and Byzantine Empires ruled with little development other than mining and pastoralism. Ilgarini Cave’s ruins are testament to Byzantine monks (9th–11th c.), possibly the legendary golden hermitage (Chryse Petra) of St. Nikon the Metanoite.

Under the Ottomans the mountains were governed from Safranbolu and İnebolu ports. Small Turkish villages grew amidst the hills, but the forests remained primeval. These highlands saw little of the coastal lumbering that affected nearby zones, so the old forests survived centuries of Ottoman timber demands. In the late Ottoman period the rugged trails (the İstiklal Yolu) were used by guerrilla fighters and supply caravans during WWI. After the Turkish War of Independence (1919-22), these wartime oxcart roads fell into disrepair. Only in recent decades have they been restored as part of the heritage trekking route.

In living memory, the mountains were remote. Older locals recall traveling by horse or foot only. Pockets of Armenian and Greek villages once dotted the valleys until population exchanges and migrations in the 1920s. Today the population is mainly ethnic Turkish and a few families of migrant “Muhacir” descent. The park’s creation in 2000 (a gift of 250,000 hectares including buffer land to the state) was a turning point. WWF and the Turkish government have since worked with villagers on eco-friendly livelihoods. Hence, history here is both ancient and ongoing: the wooden houses of villages like Şeyhömer, their 19th-century mosques and communal bakeries, embody continuity amidst the wild.

The Taste of the Region: What to Eat

The culinary traditions of Kastamonu and Bartın provinces are celebrated (Kastamonu alone has over 250 named dishes!). In the mountains, hearty, high-calorie food dominates – think warm pastries and rich grains. “Etli ekmek” (minced meat on flatbread) is a must-try in Pınarbaşı, though it’s more common in central Anatolia, locals here do it well. The region’s famous sunflower or honey locust oil is often drizzled on salads or kept as a souvenir. Other specialties: “sıkma”, a spicy thin flatbread wrap usually with lamb and peppers; “banduma”, chicken cooked with rice and yoghurt (onionless pilav); and “tahta kasaba”, a stuffed pastry sweet. For dessert, Kastamonu’s syrupy “çekme helva” (flour halva) and sütlü erişte (milk noodles) are traditional. From the forests come walnuts, cherries and oregano (mahlep), used in sweet and savory breads.

Bartın province (the park’s western fringes) adds Black Sea flavors: in Cide town one finds grilled fish (anchovies, salmon trout) and “hamsi tava” (fried anchovies) on menus. Regional cheeses (tulum and “kara peynir” – a tangy type of lor) are often home-made in the villages. Do not miss trying “marşenka”, a dried quince dessert, and honey from the hazelnut trees, which often wins Golden Honey medals. In spring the wild hills abound in herbs: teas of sage and thyme, and “corbalar” (wild greens soups) that villages cook from nettles, dock and chickweed.

Restaurants around Pınarbaşı and Ilıca cater to visitors and serve these local dishes alongside modest kebabs and pide. Many accommodations include breakfast featuring fresh eggs, white cheese, olives, and homemade fruit preserves. For an authentic experience, seek out a village köy lokantası (countryside eatery) at mid-day: they will serve plain but delicious lentil soup, bulgur pilaf, grilled meatballs and seasonal vegetables straight from the garden.

Responsible Tourism: Preserving the Park for Future Generations

A visit to Küre Mountains comes with a quiet responsibility. The park is fragile: its very remoteness was its best protection. To keep it unspoiled, all visitors must tread lightly.

• Park Regulations: As a national park, KMNP has rules set by the Ministry of Forestry. Entry fees (only a few Turkish lira per adult per day) help fund trail upkeep. Drones are officially banned (common in Turkish parks). Fires are only allowed at designated rings (camp areas) – never light a fire on a rock or tree root. Stay on marked trails except at allowed camp sites. Collecting plants, disturbing wildlife, or removing anything (wildflowers, fossils, wood) is prohibited.
• Leave No Trace: This principle is critical. Pack out all trash – even biodegradable items (apple cores can attract bears). If camping, use a stove rather than open fire. Human waste is a concern: use the pit toilets at Ilıca or Horma; if none are available, bury waste 15 cm deep and 60 m from water. Noise pollution should be minimal to allow wildlife to thrive (bear mating and brood-rearing happen in spring, so be extra quiet then). In cold season, camping is discouraged to avoid faint trails that wildlife might follow.
• Safety First: Tell someone your plan, especially for strenuous hikes like Valla Rim or multiday treks. Carry a copy of park emergency contacts (Kastamonu Forestry Dept: +90 366 212-1000). Cell phone service works in towns, but often vanishes deep in valleys – plan accordingly.
• Support the Local Community: Buy local crafts (hand-embroidered tablecloths, wooden spoons) and eat in village cafes. Guided tours should be hired from locals when possible. Not only will you get a richer experience, but your spending helps communities that protect the forest. Communities around KMNP maintain wildlife corridors (they have to live with bears and wolves, after all) and running water from springs is often collected for the villages. Helping them helps the park.
• Conservation Efforts: Park authorities actively monitor the ecosystem. They have established a 500m-wide core protected area around the deepest zones. They also set aside nearly 10 times as much buffer land with sustainable use. By abiding by rules, visitors become part of a conservation story that includes WWF’s Gift-to-the-Earth campaigns and Pan Parks management certification.

In short, be as respectful of this land as you would of an ancient cathedral. Its silence and sanctity are what make it extraordinary.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the entrance fees? Küre Mountains NP charges a nominal day fee (about 10 TL as of 2025) for adults; children and students are cheaper. (Fees are collected at major entrances like Horma and Ilıca parking areas.) Camping incurs a small extra fee. The costs are very reasonable and help maintain trails.

Are drones allowed? No – as in most national parks worldwide, drones are prohibited without special permission. The park’s main attraction is nature, not aerial videography, and drone disturbance disrupts wildlife and other visitors’ experience.

Is there cell phone or Wi‑Fi? Expect almost no coverage in the backcountry. Turkish networks reach the villages and main road out of Pınarbaşı, but once you hike into the canyons or deep forest you lose signal. Plan to be off-grid. Some hotels offer Wi‑Fi in reception areas; otherwise, have offline maps and tell someone your schedule.

What are the best activities for families with children? Horma Canyon’s wooden walkway is ideal for kids (2–10 years old) because it’s short and flat. Ilıca Waterfall is another family favorite – kids can wade in the pool. Many families also enjoy easy village walks (for example around Saraçlar Plateau near Kastamonu). The Azdavay picnic area near Çatak Gorge has playgrounds. Generally, keep hikes under 5 km with youngsters, and bring snacks and sun hats.

Can I bring my dog? Officially pets are not allowed in Turkish national parks (wildlife and pet conflicts, plus hygiene issues). In practice, some villagers walk their sheepdogs in distant parts, but visitors should not. Also, dogs could startle wildlife or get lost. It’s best to leave your dog at home or in your car.

What are the opening and closing times? The park is un-gated and open year-round (sunrise to sunset). The Horma and Ilıca parking areas have attendants during daytime, roughly 08:00–18:00 in summer (shorter hours in winter). After 18:00 the gates lock, so plan your visit accordingly. If you find the park closed when you arrive, nearby inns can sometimes help procure after-hours access, but it’s safest to time your arrival during park hours.