Located in northeastern Turkey along the Black Sea, the Kaçkar Mountains form the loftiest section of the Pontic (Eastern Black Sea) range. Their highest summit, Mount Kaçkar, reaches 3,937 m, making it the tallest peak not only in Rize Province but in all of Turkey’s Black Sea region. These glaciated, alpine peaks tower above lush valleys, where rivers like the Fırtına tumble through dense forests before reaching the sea. The range’s very name reflects its heritage: Kaçkar comes from Armenian khachkar (“cross stone”), meaning “Mountains of the Cross”. Indeed, ancient cross-carved monuments once dotted these mountains. Today, the Kaçkars are celebrated as one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, with terrain ranging from warm broadleaf forests in the foothills to snow-capped crests above the tree line. In summer, alpine meadows erupt with rhododendrons and wildflowers, while wildlife from black bears to goats roam largely undisturbed. Trekking enthusiasts call it “a hiker’s paradise,” lauding panoramic ridges, hidden lakes, and the authentic village life along the trails. In short, the Kaçkars offer a rare mix of natural grandeur and living tradition—a wilderness off the beaten path that this guide will fully explore.
The Kaçkars stand out for their dramatic scale and variety. In just 40 km, peaks climb from near sea level to above 3,900 m. This rapid rise creates distinct climate zones: temperate coast, humid forests on the lower slopes, and frozen glaciers at the highest altitudes. Glacial lakes and waterfalls are common sights. The Fırtına River, for example, carves a steep gorge through dark conifer woods before rushing out to tea terraces. Because the mountains loom so close to the Black Sea, weather is famously changeable – fog and sudden storms can descend even in summer. Yet clear days reward visitors with endless mountain vistas and starlit skies. Importantly, much of this vast landscape is protected as Kaçkar Mountains National Park (since 1994), preserving wilderness alongside modest infrastructure: trails, simple refuges, and small villages. The result is a feeling of genuine remoteness combined with warm cultural encounters – from shepherds’ halting hospitality to Ottoman-era bridges on forest roads. In short, the Kaçkars offer sweeping panoramas and rich biodiversity on one hand, and on the other hand an unhurried High Plateau culture largely untouched by mass tourism.
The Kaçkars are the crown of Turkey’s Pontic Mountains (Eastern Black Sea Alps), the chain of ranges running along northern Anatolia. While the Pontic belt stretches from the Bosporus into Georgia, none of its peaks exceed the Kaçkars in height. (Britannica notes the Pontic range “reaches a height of 3,932 m” in Turkey, corresponding to Mount Kaçkar.) Geologically, these mountains arose from the collision of Eurasian and Anatolian plates, giving the Kaçkars their rugged, glaciated character. The range forms a climatic wall: moist Black Sea air deposits heavy rain on the northern slopes, feeding the lush broadleaf and spruce forests that clothe thousands of hectares, whereas the southern valleys lie in a modest rain shadow. Politically, the park straddles Rize and Artvin provinces and even touches the Georgian border in places. Throughout history the Pontic ranges were a frontier region: ancient Colchian kingdoms, Byzantine and Ottoman armies all skirted these heights. Today, that legacy is reflected in place names and ethnic diversity (Laz, Hemshin, Armenian roots, etc.) that color the mountains’ story.
The very name Kaçkar Dağları illuminates the range’s past. “Kaçkar” derives from Armenian khachkar (“cross-stone”), reflecting an era when Armenian cross monuments (khachkars) were common here. In other words, Turkish-speaking locals literally call them “Cross Mountains.” Under Ottoman rule the area was often known as Lazistan, hinting at the Laz and Hemshin peoples whose ancestors moved here over centuries. Each mountain village has a traditional name: for example, Pokut comes from Armenian meaning “windy valley”. More broadly, the concept of yayla (high pasture) is central: every summer, villages move stock up to these grassy plateaus for cooler grazing (the Turkish word yayla denotes a summer mountain pasture settlement). Understanding this is key to the region: a yayla isn’t just a scenic spot, but the functional heart of a migratory mountain culture. The Kaçkars thus represent both a geographical feature and a living cultural landscape, where nature and heritage intertwine. This guide will speak of both – the peaks and valleys as well as the people and traditions that define the mountains.
Covering about 52,000 hectares, Kaçkar Mountains National Park protects the core of Turkey’s highest Black Sea peaks. Established in 1994, the park spans steep valleys, glacial cirques, alpine meadows and old villages. Its purpose is to conserve the region’s extraordinary biodiversity and landscapes – which include everything from dense forested gorges to icy summits. The park is managed in zones: the highest areas (near Mt. Kaçkar and Kavron Dağı) are wild and mostly treeless, while lower plateaus like Ayder and Pokut are more settled. Key park features include the Kavron and Elevit basins (entry points for summit climbs), the famed Ayder plateau (wooden hotels, thermal springs), and the ancient stone bridges of the Fırtına Valley. By design, human impact is limited. Logging and hunting are banned; only marked trails exist in the high country. As a visitor, one benefits from wild scenery without unwanted development: you may backpack for days without encountering a single road. Below we cover the park’s history, regulations, and the special efforts made to balance tourism with conservation.
Before protection, the Kaçkars were remote even by Ottoman standards. By the late 20th century, environmentalists recognized the need to safeguard this rich ecosystem. Thus in 1994 the Turkish government declared much of the range a national park. This brought administrative attention: rangers began marking trails, and basic facilities (like shelters in Elevit and at Ayder) were built. The park encompassed what locals knew as key areas: from the forests of Fırtına Valley to the pastures of Kavron and the shores of alpine lakes like Deniz Gölü. Importantly, the park status froze large-scale logging and land conversion, allowing forests of beech, fir, and spruce to reestablish. Over time, the park was expanded slightly to include adjacent plateaus and river corridors. In recent years park authorities have campaigned against illegal grazing above limits, restored old cedar groves and monitored wildlife (even putting camera traps on bears and wolves). The result is that, decades later, the Kaçkar NP remains remarkably intact: visitors travel through the same wild landscape as mountain peoples have known for millennia.
The national park can be thought of in sections. The Kaçkar Massif itself is the heart: glacial cirques and summits above 3,000 m (Mount Kaçkar, Dölükgöl, Kavron). From there, several valleys radiate out. For example, Kavron and Demirkapı crevices (south face) and the Demirkapı (east face) frame the highest peaks with bare rock and meadows. The Ayder Plateau (1,350–1,600 m) is a lower basin protected within the park: it has forests of spruce, rolling fields, and an alpine stream. Even here, human development is modest due to park limits (no high-rise hotels, for instance). Adjacent is the Pokut–Sal plateau (around 2,000 m), a high pasture protected for its rare plants and panoramic views. The Fırtına Valley section covers the river’s gorge, including Ottoman stone bridges and villages. Up in the valley, the park includes refuges like Huser (traditional stone houses). Another feature is Yukarı Kavrun, a wilderness zone at the foot of Mt. Kaçkar’s north face, reachable only by 4×4 or foot. Finally, the park extends into some lower pine forests and coast, but the core preserves true wilderness: glacial lakes like Bilbil Gölü (2,900 m) lie deep in the backcountry, accessible only by multi-day hikes with a guide. In practice, nearly all tourist trails (the classic loop, the Ayder approach, the valley trails) are inside the park, so visitors automatically abide by park rules and benefit from its status.
Since the Kaçkars are a national park, visitors must follow conservation rules. All trekkers should register at a park office or ranger station (for example, in Ayder or Çamlıhemşin) before hiking. This provides free park permits and ensures someone knows you are in the mountains. Camping is only allowed in designated zones or with permission; wildfires are banned and stoves are required above treeline. Off-trail motor travel is forbidden – you must stay on footpaths. Hunting, logging, and herb-gathering are prohibited. These rules preserve the park’s integrity, so even lowland tea fields remain outside the protected area. Park authorities also recommend not hiking alone in remote high sections unless experienced. In case of an emergency, cell phone signal is patchy, so guides often carry satellite beacons or radios. On a positive note, adhering to the regulations yields a true wilderness experience – you might walk for days without encountering any road or facility. For practical guidance, park offices can supply maps and up-to-date trail conditions. In Ayder, an information booth at the national park entrance often has signboards in English or Turkish listing weather updates and trail statuses. Crucially, no entrance fee is charged as of writing, so conservation is funded by government and tourism taxes. The main takeaway is: treat the Kaçkars like any protected area. Hike the marked trails, camp responsibly, and enjoy this special landscape without leaving a trace.
Officially, Kaçkar NP is a “Class-II” national park, meaning both nature and recreation are valued. Conservation initiatives reflect this. Rangers routinely monitor bear populations and flag any roadkill of large animals. Reforestation projects (with native saplings) have been done in landslide areas to stabilize slopes. Additionally, local NGOs and universities sometimes conduct wildlife surveys – one project has been tracking the rare Caucasian Salamander in mountain streams. On the tourism side, there is a growing “ecotourism” ethos. For example, some trekking companies now pledge not to use packaged plastic water bottles, instead carrying large filter jugs. A portion of tour fees is donated to local school programs or beekeeping co-ops (keeping in mind that herbal medicines and honey are major local products). Visitor education is also part of the strategy: eco-guides teach travelers to identify protected plants and animals on the trail, emphasizing leave no trace. Community involvement is encouraged: some highland villages have formed cooperatives to run pensions and sell crafts, so that tourism revenues stay local.
Overall, these efforts – park protection, ranger patrols, and community programs – create a balance. They allow visitors to enjoy the Kaçkars’ wild attributes while ensuring grazing, forestry, or tourism do not degrade the forests and meadows. As one park official puts it, the Kaçkars are meant to be “lived with, not taken from.” The result is that the highest glacial valleys still feel pristine, and vacationers often return impressed by how intact this ecosystem remains.
Timing is key when visiting the Kaçkars, since their climate changes quickly with the seasons. The consensus among guides is that summer (June–August) is prime trekking season. By mid-June most trails up to 3,000 m are snow-free, and the weather is generally stable. Daytime highs on the plateaus reach 20–25°C, cool enough to hike comfortably, and the long daylight helps. Alpine flowers are in full bloom, and all guesthouses along the way are open. The drawbacks of summer are occasional afternoon thunderstorms and the fact that some popular spots (like Ayder) get busy on weekends. If you go, start hikes early to avoid stormy afternoons.
Spring (April–May) is a gorgeous shoulder season. Wildflowers erupt in lower meadows and valleys, forests green up, and the waterfalls are raging from snowmelt. Trails are quieter, which is a boon for solitude. However, higher passes often retain deep snow into May. Winter gear (warm layers, gaiters) is recommended if you trek early, and you must be prepared for muddy sections. By late May, though, most lower trails open, and some intrepid trekkers even summit Kaçkar in early June (with crampons).
Autumn (September–October) offers crisp air and changing foliage. The first snows usually begin falling by late October above 2,000 m. Early autumn days (September) can still be pleasantly warm (12–18°C) and the mountains are surprisingly empty of tourists. This makes for perfect, uninterrupted vistas: imagine a web of golden grasses below you under a clear blue sky. By mid-October, lodgings start closing and nights get cold. If hiking in September, plan rigorously and check lodge schedules.
Winter (November–March) is extreme highland weather. Heavy snow isolates most places; only Ayder’s small ski area and a few veteran mountaineers venture out in this season. Temperatures plunge well below freezing at night. Winter sports do exist (Ayder ski lift, a famous ice-climbing face on Kaçkar’s north side), but for general travel winter is not recommended. Snow can start in November and last into May. If you must go off-season (for photography or solitude), hire an experienced guide and be prepared for avalanches and road closures.
A handy reference is a month-by-month breakdown: April–May (lower trails thaw; wildflowers bloom; some streams high up are only passable on snowshoes); June (most routes clear; pleasant hiking weather); July–August (peak season; summit attempts safest; watch for storms); September (cool and colorful; many refuges closing late month); October (cold nights; many trails blocked by early snow); November–March (deep winter conditions, minimal access). Always check local weather (the Turkish State Meteorological Service has forecasts for Rize and highlands) and heed park advisories. In brief: Summer is safest and busiest; spring and fall are rewarding and quiet but require flexibility; winter demands alpine skills.
Reaching the Kaçkars normally involves flying into the northeastern Black Sea region, then traveling overland. Two airports serve as gateways:
(For some adventurous travelers, Batumi in Georgia is another choice. It’s ~120 km from Ayder and served by flights from some European cities. However, crossing the Turkey-Georgia border adds complexity – visas, customs – and the road involves a mountain pass. Batumi-to-Rize travel is possible but mainly used by overlanders.)
Once in the region, ground transport is straightforward. In Rize city, intercity buses and dolmuş terminals provide connections. From Rize city, one can catch a dolmuş to Çamlıhemşin (via Pazar) or directly to Ayder. For instance, an Ayder-destined dolmuş leaves Rize city roughly every hour (morning to afternoon) and takes about 1 hour to reach Ayder. If driving, all roads to Ayder are paved modern highways now, though mountainous (watch for cows and fallen rocks!).
For those with rental cars, having wheels offers maximum flexibility – you can explore side routes (to Pokut, Gito, Elevit, etc.) and carry gear easily. Just be cautious: some highland roads (Pokut, Sal, or Yukarı Kavrun) are steep, narrow, and unpaved. In winter they may require chains.
Private transfers or tour shuttles are also offered by many local tour companies: these can pick you up directly from an airport and deposit you in remote villages. They save time, but note that shuttle companies may favor the main tourist stops (Ayder, Çamlıhemşin) and skip smaller hamlets.
In summary, most visitors either land in Trabzon and bus to Rize, or land in Rize–Artvin (RZV) directly. Both approaches are well-serviced, so reaching the Kaçkars is not difficult – the challenge lies in what you’ll do once you’re there.
Lodging in the Kaçkars ranges from simple family-run pensions to full hotels and tent camping. The style of stay will greatly affect your experience of the region.
Pensions and Guesthouses: For authentic local hospitality, the simplest option is a pension (Turkish: pansiyon) in a mountain village. Every highland settlement (Avusor, Elevit, Kavron, etc.) has at least one. These are modest wood-frame houses, often with a single communal bathroom and shared seating areas. The hosts are villagers who cook home-style meals (cheesy stews, fresh bread, tea) and treat guests like family. Staying in a yayla pension means rising to cowbells and plaited hay drying outside. It’s basic but memorable. Note: many pensions require cash (no card machines), and English is rarely spoken – however, pointing and smiles work.
Hotels (Ayder Plateau): Ayder is the main tourist hub and has several larger hotels and resorts. For example, the Kaçkar Resort Hotel and Storia Hotel offer cozy rooms, hot tubs, and even in-house spas. These are the most comfortable options, with en suite bathrooms, heating, and sometimes Wi-Fi. They often provide free breakfast buffets featuring local tea, honey and cheese. The trade-off is that Ayder can feel more like a resort; rooms and meals cost more than in villages. But if you want creature comforts (dry rooms, electric blankets, the option to eat à la carte), Ayder’s hotels are the place. Many hotel guests are Turkish families on weekend getaways.
Camping: Many hikers choose to camp in the Kaçkars. The mountains allow it widely – especially above 2,000 m – as long as you follow park rules (e.g. no fires except in marked areas). There are few official campgrounds; instead, backpackers pitch tents in meadows or forestsides. Good spots include near mountain lakes (e.g. Son Göl), flat areas on plateaus or gentle slopes. Advice: camp away from water sources and livestock paths, use a stove instead of open fires, and carry out all trash. Nights can get chilly (potentially near 0°C at 2,500 m even in summer), so a good 3-season bag and pad are essential. The reward is wilderness: imagine waking up to a sky ablaze with stars in a silent alpine meadow.
Booking: In peak season (July–August), rooms in pensions and hotels fill up. If traveling then, it’s wise to book at least one segment of your stay in advance (for example, your first night in Ayder or your last night in Çamlıhemşin). For camping, no reservation is needed, but check trail conditions first. In the shoulder seasons (May, Sept), you might find spots last-minute, although some remote pensions may close over winter. Most places accept walk-ins if they have space, but confirming ahead removes stress.
To illustrate choices: One might stay three nights in a mountain pension (e.g. Elevit or Kavron) to acclimate, one night camping by Kaçkar’s glaciers, and two nights in Ayder hotels as a treat. Or backpack from refuge to refuge, eating breakfasts and dinners provided by tiny mountain guesthouses. The variety of accommodations allows tailoring the trip to your comfort level.
Insider tip: Consider a night in an off-the-beaten-path homestay. On Pokut or Ayder, there are families who host travelers by setting out floor mats and sharing their home-cooked soup – this isn’t listed on booking sites, but a well-known practice among overlanders. It’s rustic, often cash-only, but incredibly warm – the hosts might even join you for raki under the stars.
In all cases, expect simplicity. Hot water may be limited, and lights often go out around 10 pm. Embrace the mountain schedule. But whatever you choose, you will be enveloped by Kaçkar culture each night – something no city hotel can offer.
Trekking is the prime way to experience the Kaçkars. Trails crisscross the range, from lowland walks to multi-day high treks. This section covers motivations, logistics, routes, and packing – everything a hiker needs.
Hiking here means encountering landscapes few other tourists see. One day you might wander through a beech forest carved by a mountain stream; the next you’re crossing a windswept meadow under glaciers. Longtime trekkers describe the Kaçkars as strikingly “Caucasian” – it feels like stepping into the great mountains of Georgia or Armenia, yet with a distinct Anatolian character. The combination of wild scenery and living villages is rare: on a single trail you might pass a centuries-old church ruin, followed by a family’s flock of sheep accompanied by barking dogs.
Wildlife and plants also thrill nature lovers. Grizzled goats (chamois) peer at hikers from ledges; bears and wolves roam in secret; eagles wheel in high cirques. In spring, meadows explode with endemic flowers. According to Turkish trek guides, the Kaçkars rank among the world’s most beautiful mountain treks. Hiking here offers solitude (except at popular yays, the mountains are sparsely populated) and rugged authenticity. It’s physically demanding — steep ascents are common — but not technically extreme (except in winter or on the summit routes). Ultimately, trekking the Kaçkars means connecting with nature and tradition in a pristine setting. There is no better way to appreciate this range’s scale and secrets.
Independent Trekking: For experienced hikers, going it alone is entirely feasible. The main trails are marked with painted blazes, and guidebooks like Kate Clow’s Trekking in Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains exist for navigation. You set your own itinerary – perhaps altering it on the fly if the weather changes. This can be cheaper and more flexible. However, you must arrange all details: know which pensions are open each night and carry maps. At least basic Turkish is very helpful (or a phrasebook) once off the beaten path. Without a guide, you also shoulder all risk. In winter or on glacier routes, that can be perilous without mountaineering experience.
Guided Trekking: Hiring a local guide has advantages. Guides know the fastest routes and current conditions. They handle logistics: booking village lodging, arranging porters or pack animals for gear, and cooking meals. Critically, a guide provides safety (knowing how to navigate snowfields, recognizing avalanche risk). They also enrich the experience by explaining ecology and folklore. For Kaçkar summit climbs, a guide is strongly advised – the glaciated ascent is not a mere scramble. The downsides are cost (guides and support staff raise the price) and less autonomy. But many beginners or those on short trips choose guides to maximize safety and learning.
In practice, some people mix both approaches: use a guide only for the mountain crossings or summit, but walk the rest solo. Others start guided and then continue independently. If you’re new to high-altitude hiking, the extra expense of a guide is often worth the knowledge and peace of mind.
The “classic” route is a large loop around the core peaks. Starting from the east (usually Çamlıhemşin town, 310 m), it ascends through successive plateaus and villages back to the coast. A typical itinerary (in 7–9 days) is:
This loop covers almost every key area. It is physically challenging – total elevation gain is ~4,000 m – but very rewarding. Note: in practice, accommodations (pensions) exist in most villages mentioned, but not every night may coincide perfectly. Trekkers often carry a tent as backup. Also, the summit of Mt. Kaçkar itself adds a day: from Aşağı Kavron, a dawn start to reach 3,937 m and return (with crampons and rope) can add 8–10 hours of hiking.
For a different flavor, follow the valley of the Fırtına River north to south. From Çamlıhemşin, a trail ascends steeply into tea gardens and old stone-arched bridge sites. The ambiance is humid and green, with torrents and cascade. Eventually you emerge at Yukarı Kavrun (1,300 m), a little highland compound used as a starting point for climbs. This day-walk can be extended by leaving the trail at Sal or Harami plateaus and looping back. Alternatively, you can shuttle into Fırtına from Ayder. Many hikers pair this valley hike with rafting down the river (see Adventures). This route never goes above 1,500 m, so it can be done earlier or later in the year. It showcases rainforests, bridges (heralded Ottoman monuments), and village life (beekeeping and hazelnuts are visible).
Shorter hikes connecting nearby plateaus are abundant. Examples:
Standing on Kaçkar’s summit at 3,937 m is a special achievement. The standard ascent is via the northeast ridge from Aşağı Kavron. From the Kavron meadow, hikers climb very early (2 am) to tackle the final glaciated slope. In summer this requires crampons and ice-axe. It’s a strenuous all-day effort (10+ hours round-trip). An alternate route starts from Elevit on the south side via Dölükgöl (Glacier Lake), but it’s similar in difficulty. Turkish law technically requires registering any group climbing above 3,000 m, so guided parties or individuals often check in with local authorities for safety.
We strongly advise only experienced alpinists (or guided groups) to attempt Kaçkar’s top. The payoff is immense: on a clear day the view sweeps the entire Pontic chain and, according to some, even the distant Caucasus. For most visitors, summiting is optional – they can instead admire the mountain from the high pastures below. But if you are fit, well-equipped, and have acclimatized at Elevit or Kavron for 1–2 days, the climb is feasible in good conditions.
Hiking in the Kaçkars requires thorough preparation. Key items include:
Foodwise, pack high-energy snacks (nuts, bars), and a hot beverage (tea or chocolate powder) for camp nights. Villages often offer simple breakfasts (eggs, cheese, bread) and dinners, but carry extra if you have special dietary needs. And of course, always have a water bottle (or two 1–2 L bottles) and refill frequently at springs.
In short, gear for the Kaçkars is similar to any serious alpine trek. Being prepared keeps the focus on the mountains themselves, not on discomfort.
A distinctive feature of the Kaçkar region is its yaylas – high mountain plateaus used as summer pastures and villages. These form the heart of local life. A yayla is typically above 1,500 m, grassy and open, where villagers bring cattle and sheep from spring to autumn. In practice, a yayla can range from a rural hamlet (with a cluster of houses and a mosque) to a broad, uninhabited meadow edged by forest.
Visiting these plateaus is essential to understanding the Kaçkars. They are often scenically spectacular: imagine stepping from dark pine forest into a sunlit field stretching to distant peaks. But they are also centers of culture. Each yayla may have unique traditions – for example, in Elevit one hears mountain songs every evening, while in Hazmedak whole families harvest beans on the plateau.
Yaylas open to visitors have pensions, simple cafes or bakeries and communally melt cheese in the morning. Cattle bell “musik” fills the air. If you hike through a yayla at dawn, you might see smoke curling from wood-stove chimneys as farmers bake bazlama bread or churn fresh butter.
Below are some must-see plateaus:
Ayder (elevation ~1,350–1,600 m) is perhaps the most famous Kaçkar yayla. It has become a bona fide mountain resort. A paved road reaches it, and the valley is lined with wooden hotels, shops, and even a cable car. Natural attractions include hot sulfur springs used in baths (notably since Ottoman times) and the melodious shouts of horon dancers on summer festival nights. Ayder’s forests below bloom with rhododendron (azalea) in late spring, and its meadows have views of the towering Altiparmak peaks to the east.
Visitors come to Ayder for convenience: comfortable lodging, hot meals, and mild trails (e.g. the short walk to the spectacular waterfalls at Gelintülü). From Ayder one can day-hike up to higher areas like Elevated or Hazmedak if desired. The downside is the crowds: on summer weekends hundreds of Turkish families descend, enjoying the alpine novelty. Nonetheless, Ayder’s setting makes it special – it offers a classic “yayla” experience with some modern amenities. Even if you prefer solitude later on, it’s worth seeing Ayder at least once to enjoy a forest picnic or the nightfolk band by the communal fountain.
Pokut Plateau (2,032 m) lies higher and more remote. It’s reached by a rough mountain road, and often shrouded in fog — fitting its name meaning “windy valley” (Armenian). But on clear mornings, Pokut rewards with what many call the greatest view in Turkey: a sweeping panorama of rugged green mountains, often above a sea of clouds. The plateau’s meadows are more alpine, dotted with low pine and spruce groves.
One unique feature: many of Pokut’s homestead houses are old all-wood structures. A travel blog notes these ancient “Hemshin” houses, some 250+ years old, with residents still caring livestock by hand. Some families now let visitors stay in their houses. It’s truly remote life: no electricity in the fields, water from springs. A stay at Pokut means simple food (polenta, cheese, mountain tea) and total silence at night, broken only by distant wolves howling.
Pokut is far quieter than Ayder. Even in summer, perhaps a few dozen travelers reach it per day. It’s ideal for camping under the stars or a rustic nights with villagers. Just be prepared: supplies are limited here, so bring any extras (snacks, batteries) from Rize. The payoff is a vivid connection to nature – waking up on Pokut is often described as magical, overlooking a giant valley filled with fog while the sun rises on snowy peaks.
A short hike or drive from Pokut brings you to Sal Plateau (2,070 m), often sharing the same pastoral scenery. Sal is smaller than Pokut but charming. One writer describes Sal’s cluster of wooden houses (built in traditional Hemshin style) as making you feel “in a European village”. The plateau is surrounded by forested ridges, giving it an intimate, sheltered feel. In summer Sal has become a quiet camping destination. A few new pensions and bungalows now cater to hikers and campers, often run by families who’ve opened guest rooms.
Visiting Sal is to step off the tourist grid. There is no market or ATM here; a family may sell you cheese on an honor system. One local advises arriving by mid-afternoon, because by night the plateau can be very cold (often near freezing). But the starry sky from Sal is extraordinarily clear. The payoff of a Sal overnight is peace. Trails from Sal loop through gentle hills back toward Pokut or Haramit (a saddle) – half-day hikes perfect for photography and birdwatching. If Pokut is the showstopper, Sal is the quiet scenic understudy, perfect for contemplation.
Gito Plateau (about 1,950 m) lies off the main tourist roads, in Hemşin district. It requires either a rugged jeep ride or a long hike to reach. As such, Gito is still little known. Travel guides call it a “picturesque highland” – green meadows flanked by wildflower-covered hills. The plateau itself is ringed by forests, with a few shepherd huts. There are no formal hotels; just one or two homemakers who will cook for you if you arrange it, and flat grass where you can pitch a tent.
Because of Gito’s solitude, hikers often stay longer. A sunrise or sunset from Gito gives clear views of the main Kaçkar massif – much clearer than from Ayder due to less smoke/dust. The plateau has abundant alpine wildflowers in summer, and at night no lights intrude. In 2022 it still felt like “discovering a place you’re not supposed to know about” to those adventurous enough to find it. If you love off-the-beaten-track days, Gito will please you deeply.
Summary of Yaylas: In this region, yaylas are living destinations, not just viewpoints. From Ayder’s bustle to Pokut’s vistas to Sal and Gito’s serenity, each plateau offers a different experience of Kaçkar life. Plan to sleep at least one night on a yayla if you can – the hospitality and vistas are incomparable.
The Kaçkars offer more than walking. Adventurers of all stripes can find activities in the valleys and forested gorges:
These activities complement trekking: you could spend an afternoon rafting after a multi-day hike, or zipline before a sunrise hike the next morning. They give families and non-hikers alike a way to experience the mountains.
Part of the Kaçkars’ charm is the astonishing variety of life found at different altitudes. The park straddles several ecological zones:
On the lower slopes (up to ~1,500 m), one finds dense broadleaf forests. Beech, hornbeam, oak, and chestnut trees dominate; wild rhododendron shrubs carpet the understory in spring. These flowering azaleas (e.g. Rhododendron ponticum) create clouds of pink in May. Underfoot, ferns and mosses thrive in the moist soil.
Above ~1,500 m lie dark spruce and fir forests. These evergreens cloak the mid-mountain gorges. They provide cool shade even in summer. Rare understory plants (like certain orchids) grow here.
Alpine meadows begin around 2,000 m. These are eye-popping fields of wildflowers in mid-summer: yellow buttercups, purple gentians, red peony blooms, and many endemic species. A unique Caucasian orchid, Cypripedium japonicum, carpets some grassy slopes in pink spring-blooms. The plateaus also host endemic iris and tulip species adapted to short summers. Biologists have recorded over 150 plant species in the Kaçkars that occur nowhere else. The famed rhododendron forests and meadows make this a botanical hotspot.
Highest, above ~2,500 m, vegetation is low: alpine grasses, hardy shrubs, and specialised mosses. You’ll find edelweiss relatives and tiny saxifrages hugging the rocks. In short, walking up the Kaçkars, one passes through a sequence of forests and flowers unmatched in Turkey.
The park’s intact nature supports a variety of animals:
Because the Kaçkars are a protected area, sightings of large mammals have increased in recent years. Many hikers report discovering animal tracks in meadow mud. By keeping quiet near dusk, it is possible to glimpse deer or even a bear from a distance. The park’s variety of habitats – from riversides to meadows to crags – makes it a mini wildlife reserve.
In summary, the flora and fauna form an indelible tapestry. From rhododendron thickets to chamois on the crags, the Kaçkars exemplify the Black Sea mountains’ biodiversity. Hikers should carry binoculars and a good field guide – you never know what will appear around the next bend.
The Kaçkars have witnessed layers of human history, though their remote valleys often sheltered cultures rather than hosts them.
In antiquity, the coastal areas below were part of the Kingdom of Colchis (famed in Greek myth). The highlands themselves saw sparse settlement, likely inhabited by tribes related to the Colchians or Armenians. By Roman times, the nearby cities (Trebizond, Sinope) flourished, but the mountains remained wild, perhaps mined for gold and emery.
The medieval period left more trace. The area became part of the Byzantine Empire and then the Empire of Trebizond (1204–1461). Small Orthodox monasteries and churches were built on the high pasture edges. Some ruins – rough stone chapels – still sit above Ayder and Kavron, relics of a once-Christian Caucasian culture.
By the 14th century, Turkmen tribes began filtering into the region. Eventually the Ottoman Empire consolidated control by the 16th–17th centuries. Under Ottoman rule the territory was called Lazistan, reflecting the dominance of the Laz people along the coast, and administered via local derebeys (mountain lords). The Ottomans largely left the mountain folk to their own devices, valuing the area for honey, silk, and strategic passes.
A crucial cultural shift occurred when the local Christian (Armenian/Laz) inhabitants converted to Islam – many accounts date this around the late 16th century for Laz and 17th century for Hemshin (Armenian descendants). As a result, today the villagers you meet are overwhelmingly Muslim, though they retain vestiges of their older heritage (folk dances, house architecture, and dialect words).
In summary, the hills were a backwater of empire – valued, but rarely visited by outsiders. Each wave of rule (Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman) left only faint marks. What endured was a self-sufficient mountain culture that blends its Caucasian and Anatolian roots in quiet daily rhythms.
One of the Kaçkars’ most distinctive communities is the Hemshinli. Originally Christian Armenians who settled the mountains centuries ago, the Hemshin gradually converted to Islam after Ottoman rule. Today they speak a Turkish dialect but maintain a unique identity. Visiting a Hemshin village, you’ll notice older men wearing shalwar (traditional baggy trousers) and women folk-dancing Horon dances unfamiliar elsewhere. Hemshin cuisine (garlic-heavy, with cheese and corn specialties) and handicrafts (woolen textiles) continue their traditions.
The Hemshin also exemplify the mountains’ layered history: in one generation they abandoned Armenian alphabet liturgy, in the next generation sang Turkish-language folk songs shaped by mountain life. Yet their pride in their ancestry remains. If you join a village feast or eavesdrop on folk stories by the hearth, you may hear of Hemshin princely legends or ancestral heroes who kept these valleys free. In this sense, the Kaçkars are as much about the stories of their people as about geology.
No journey here is complete without savoring local cuisine. The Kaçkar region is famed for rich, hearty dishes centered on corn, cheese, and tea. Here are highlights:
In short, the food is rustic and satisfying – perfect after a day of hiking. And of course, nearly every meal is accompanied by Rize tea (or sometimes local fruit sherbets).
No article on Rize would be complete without the eponymous tea. Rize produces nearly all of Turkey’s tea leafs. If you love tea, you’ll adore the ritual here: black tea with two sugars, served piping hot. Even in the highest yays, hosts boil fresh spring water and steep some loose Rize tea for guests.
Beyond its flavor, tea is a social glue. In mountain villages, a plate of meyve suyu (fruit preserves), fresh bread, cheese and çay can be an entire evening’s hospitality. Always accept and sip when offered – it’s a sign of respect. By the end of your trip, the taste of that strong Turkish tea (with the hazy sunset of your mountain meal) will likely linger more than any other souvenir.
Visiting the Kaçkars is as much about its people as the scenery. The mountain communities are warm and proud of their heritage. Here are a few cultural highlights:
As discussed, the Hemshin (Hemşinli) people dominate the highland villages of Rize Province. They speak Turkish today but with their own dialect traits. Their historical legend: descended from an Armenian king of Hamamshen. Villages like Çamlıhemşin or Pokut still celebrate annual yayla festivals with traditional dancing and singing. Hemshin women wear brightly patterned headscarves and aprons, and their handicrafts (knitted hats, scarves, rugs) are often on display at village fares. The community is known for its hospitality: a Hemshin home will often welcome any traveler and insist on feeding you more food.
The Laz are a distinct ethnic group historically from the coastal region. Some Laz families do live in the Kaçkar fringes (districts like Ardeşen, Pazar, Çamlıhemşin). The Laz language (Lazuri) is related to Georgian, though many younger Laz now speak only Turkish. Culturally, Laz music and dance (played on the kemençe instrument) are inseparable from the Black Sea. If you attend a village celebration, you might hear the horon steps and hear songs with Laz roots. Laz cuisine influences include Laz böreği and other unique pastries.
The Kaçkars have their own local customs. A notable example is the yayla şenliği (highland fair) in summer. Villagers from far and wide come dressed in folk costumes; they dance the Horon (circle dance) to live kemençe music, compete in wrestling and archery, and feast on regional delicacies. Watching elderly men and children alike clapping to the rhythm of the kemençe is a highlight for many visitors.
Music here often features the kemençe and the davul-zurna. You may be invited (perhaps after gaining trust) to dance. Local musicians are proud: they tell me they trace their lineage to minstrel ancestors who once sang epic poetry in these valleys.
Craft traditions include wood carving (intricate patterns on houses and mosques) and weaving. Some villages near the Georgian border still sell handwoven horse blankets and pillow covers.
Throughout your stay, respect and modesty go a long way. People here are traditional. For example, a woman might shyly decline a photograph, or a man might offer you tea and ask about your family. These are genuine questions of friendship, not mere form.
In sum, the Kaçkar region’s culture is a living blend of Laz, Hemshin, and broader Anatolian influences, expressed through dance, food, and hospitality. Part of trekking here is absorbing this human heritage as much as the natural one.
As visitors, we have a duty to tread lightly in the Kaçkars. With a delicate alpine ecosystem and a traditional mountain culture, certain practices are essential:
Follow all “Leave No Trace” principles. Camp well off trails (to protect fragile plants). Use only designated campsites where they exist. Do not light fires above 2,000 m (wood is scarce and the pine litter burns intensely). If you must, use a contained stove. Pack out all garbage — organic waste too, since it can attract wild animals. Do not pick wildflowers or disturb wildlife. In villages, respect homes: knock before entering and wear modest attire in religious sites. Avoid loud music or shouting, as the mountains amplify noise and wildlife have no shield from it.
Every lira you spend locally helps sustain this region. Stay in small pensions, eat at local cafes, buy crafts and honey from villagers. Politely decline guides or porters who are not licensed or local (they might be illegal labor). If you do hire assistance, prefer paying a village guide or mule driver directly through a registered agency. Tipping is appreciated but not expected; instead, bringing a small gift (like candy for children or handicrafts for hosts) leaves a warmer memory.
If you hike, consider doing so in small groups (to minimize foot traffic) and using established trails. Avoid introducing non-native plant seeds (clean your boots if you’ve trekked elsewhere). Many local families are organizing “rifugios cooperatives” where a portion of trekking fees is reinvested in community projects (like trail repair or village schools). Ask about them if booking tours.
In short: treat the Kaçkars as you would a fragile home. The visitors who have left the land best preserved are those who made minimal demand and left maximum goodwill.
When wildlife appears, observe quietly from a distance. Do not feed animals or leave scraps (even bread) out for birds; human food can harm them and habituates them. Keep dogs under control; a runaway dog can harass sheep or wildlife. Avoid riverbank areas where amphibians breed (don’t stick limbs into cold streams for the heck of it).
In winter, stay off avalanche-prone slopes unless you’re certified. And always heed local warnings: if a shepherd says a path is unsafe, listen. Local guides know exactly which gullies have avalanched recently.
By following these guidelines, visitors help preserve both wildlife and the way of life that depends on it.
For most travelers, a trip to the Kaçkars is quite safe. Turkey’s northeast Black Sea is a stable region with low crime. Trekking incidents are rare; no tourist has been reported harmed by wild animals in recent memory. That said, mountain travel has inherent risks, which can be mitigated:
General Safety: The area is politically secure. You will likely encounter friendly nods and smiles. Vehicle theft or violence against tourists is virtually unheard of in these rural parts. Drive cautiously on mountain roads – they have sharp bends and occasional landslides. In remote areas, ambulances can take hours to arrive, so avoid unnecessary stunts (like rock climbing without gear).
Health: Altitude effects are mild below ~2,500 m; most treks stick under this except Kaçkar’s summit. Still, acclimatize gradually and watch for headaches or nausea. The tap water in villages is generally safe (treated by chlorination), but if you use mountain springs, purify. Carry common medications, especially anti-inflammatories and stomach remedies (food is generally safe, but heavy dairy can upset the unaccustomed).
Emergency Contacts: Turkey’s emergency number is 112 (for police, medical, fire). However, note that in the wild, you may have no cell signal. If hiking alone, share your itinerary with someone. Guides carry VHF or satellite emergency devices. In any emergency, the park rangers or gendarmes (rural police) coordinate rescues. Know that there are small clinics in Rize and Çamlıhemşin; for serious injuries, ambulances or even helicopters can be dispatched from the city.
Traveling Off-Season: If visiting in shoulder seasons, check road conditions. Winter snow can close remote roads (Pokut and Sal often block by November). Chains or snow tires may be needed for cars. Also be aware that higher mountain huts and services will not be available in winter; only a few Ayder hotels remain open year-round.
Overall, using common sense—like in any wilderness trip—will keep you safe. The local people will help if you run into trouble; just carry basic supplies and know the weather forecast (sudden thunderstorms are a bigger hazard than wild animals in summer).
How high are the Kaçkar Mountains?
The highest peak is Mt. Kaçkar at 3,937 m. Several other summits exceed 3,500 m, making the range Turkey’s loftiest in the Black Sea region.
Where are the Pontic Mountains located?
The Pontic (Karadeniz Dağları) run along northern Turkey by the Black Sea. The Kaçkars lie at the eastern end of this chain.
What is the highest mountain in the Black Sea region of Turkey?
Mount Kaçkar, at 3,937 m, is the tallest peak in Turkey’s Black Sea area.
What is the closest airport to the Kaçkar Mountains?
Rize–Artvin Airport (RZV) is the nearest (about 50 km from Ayder). Trabzon (TZX) is also used; it’s around 155 km via road.
Do I need a permit to trek in the Kaçkars?
No special tourist permit is required to hike. However, all hikers should register with park authorities upon entering (they will give you a free permit). If you plan to climb above 3,000 m or bring commercial filming equipment, additional permission may be needed. Guided trekkers usually sort this automatically.
Is there mobile phone reception in the mountains?
Cellular coverage is good in towns and lower valleys (Ayder, Rize, Çamlıhemşin). It quickly fades above ~1,800 m and in deep canyons. You cannot rely on it high on routes. A satellite phone or personal locator beacon is recommended for remote areas.
What is the currency in Turkey and can I use credit cards?
Turkey uses the Turkish Lira (TL). Credit cards are accepted at larger hotels and restaurants in Ayder and Rize, but remote pensions and shops often take only cash. It is wise to withdraw or exchange enough Lira beforehand. There are ATMs in Rize and Çamlıhemşin.
What is a “yayla”?
A yayla is a highland summer pasture or village (literally a summer mountain meadow). Local people take cattle up to the yaylas in warmer months and bring them down in winter. Today, many yaylas have village cabins and pensions for tourists.
The Kaçkar Mountains offer a journey unlike any other: miles of untamed peaks, living tradition in each village, and memories that last a lifetime. As you plan your trip, keep an open heart and flexible plans. Mountain weather can change swiftly; turn a rain day into a cultural day in Çamlıhemşin enjoying rast (meze) and tea. Engage with locals, share stories over muhlama, and watch the sunset turn the ridges golden. Above all, respect these mountains and their people. In return, the Kaçkar Mountains will reward you with an experience of Turkey that is both timeless and deeply transformative – the true “Alpine paradise” of the Black Sea.