The Commander-in-Chief (Başkomutan) Historical National Park is not merely a collection of trails and monuments, but the hallowed ground where the Turkish War of Independence was decided. Established on 8 November 1981, the park now preserves the battlefields and memorials of the Great Offensive of August 1922. Spanning some 42,000 hectares across Afyonkarahisar, Kütahya, and Uşak provinces, it contains dozens of cemeteries, monuments, and a dedicated museum, all dedicated to the republic’s birth.

At its core, the park marks the climactic events of the Büyük Taarruz – the “Great Offensive” – when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, as Commander-in-Chief, drove occupying Greek forces out of Anatolia. This guide will narrate the extraordinary history of that campaign, describe every major site to see, and provide practical advice for travelers. From Atatürk’s wartime strategy and the battle’s day-by-day progress to current visitor routes and local cuisine, the following chapters offer an in-depth tour of the Commander-in-Chief National Park — the very landscape where Turkey’s national destiny was sealed.

Introduction: More Than a Park, A Nation’s Turning Point

What is the Commander-in-Chief Historical National Park? A First Glance

Carved across rolling hills and pine forests of western Anatolia, the Başkomutan National Park (Başkomutan Tarihi Millî Parkı) memorializes the final, decisive clashes of 1922. Its territory stretches from Kocatepe Hill in Afyonkarahisar Province to the plains around Dumlupınar in Kütahya Province. The park’s two main sectors include the Kocatepe area in Afyonkarahisar (where the offensive was launched) and the Dumlupınar area (where it culminated).

Inside the park one finds trenches, artillery positions, and dozens of shrines erected since the 1920s: major monuments like the bronze statue of Atatürk atop Kocatepe and the pyramidal mausoleum at Dumlupınar, plus dozens of smaller cemeteries where officers and soldiers lie. The national park also includes the Victory Museum in Afyon, housed in the building where Atatürk and his commanders directed the operation. In short, the Commander-in-Chief Park is both a solemn war memorial and a living history museum. It is a protected cultural landscape covering the very ground where Turkey’s independence was won.

Why This Park Is the Sacred Heart of the Turkish Republic

For Turks, the Commander-in-Chief Park is hallowed ground. It encompasses exactly the battlefields where the fate of the nation turned in August 1922. This was the climax of the War of Independence: Turkish arms shattered the last major Greek army, forcing the invaders out of Anatolia. In Turkish memory the park stands for unity, sacrifice, and ultimate victory. In the words of history, “the battles that were turning points of the National Struggle took place here”.

The park’s monuments and museums reinforce that symbolic weight. The Dumlupınar Martyrs’ Cemetery alone commemorates the 600 or more soldiers killed in the final battle. Atatürk himself proclaimed the victory in this region as the final march of independence, famously ordering his armies: “Armies, Your first goal is the Mediterranean!” – the command that epitomizes the campaign’s success.

In practical terms, preserving this landscape keeps alive the story of national liberation. An on-site Independence Promotion Center uses dioramas and models to teach schoolchildren how Anatolia was won. Veterans and officials often visit to pay respects. The park has even been proposed for UNESCO world-heritage status, underscoring its cultural value. In essence, it is Turkey’s living classroom for the War of Independence – a place where every memorial path, statue, and stone tells how the young Republic was born from a desperate struggle.

The Unfolding of History: The Great Offensive and the Turkish War of Independence

Setting the Stage: The Aftermath of WWI and the Fight for Turkish Sovereignty

In late 1918 the defeated Ottoman Empire was sliced by the Allied powers. A random mix of foreign troops occupied Istanbul, Izmir, and parts of Anatolia, and the harsh Treaty of Sèvres threatened to carve up the homeland. Against this backdrop, Turkish nationalists under Mustafa Kemal rallied resistance, leading to the War of Independence (1919–1922). After several years of fighting – from the battles of Sakarya to Kütahya – the possibility of total defeat loomed. It was in this critical moment that the Commander-in-Chief Historical Park’s events would unfold.

By mid-1922, the Western (Izmir) front was the focus. Turkish morale was strong but forces were outnumbered and outgunned. Commander Mustafa Kemal Pasha (later Atatürk) knew that without a bold offensive the occupation would endure. Thus he prepared for the war’s final gamble – the Great Offensive – to break the front line and drive the Greeks out once and for all. The Allies, convinced the Turks could not launch a large attack, allowed a silent buildup. Mustafa Kemal took full command and began to plan in secrecy.

The Strategic Genius: Who was the Commander-in-Chief, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk?

Mustafa Kemal Pasha, soon to be known as Atatürk, was both Turkey’s military leader and its political visionary. He had proved himself in earlier wars (Gallipoli, Sakarya) and now held the rank of Başkomutan (Commander-in-Chief). In the Great Offensive, Atatürk’s strategic acumen was on full display: he mobilized tens of thousands of troops from quieter fronts, stockpiled ammunition in secret, and meticulously planned how to catch the enemy by surprise.

Working alongside him were his chief lieutenants – İsmet İnönü, Fevzi Çakmak and Tevfik Bıyıkoğlu – whose quarters in the countryside have been preserved. For example, the building in Afyonkarahisar city center that now houses the Victory Museum was the actual headquarters where Atatürk and the Western Front staff prepared the campaign. There, officers pored over maps and delivered final orders, just as one sees in the museum’s period rooms today. Everywhere you look in the park, Atatürk’s presence is recalled: the monuments at Kocatepe and Dumlupınar bear witness to his leadership, while quotes of his commands are etched in stone.

In summary, the park is inseparable from Atatürk’s personal story. His very title, Başkomutan (Commander-in-Chief), is part of the park’s name. The outcome of his plan would directly lead to the Republic he would soon found, and thus this sacred site stands as a testament to his legacy.

The Great Offensive (Büyük Taarruz): The Final Gamble for Freedom

On 26 August 1922 the Great Offensive – Büyük Taarruz – was launched. The plan was audacious: Turkish forces would attack the Greek lines simultaneously along a broad front. The key position was Kocatepe, a mountain 1,874 meters high south of Afyonkarahisar, which overlooked enemy territory. From its summit Mustafa Kemal would personally command the assault.

Statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk at Kocatepe, symbolizing the launch point of the Great Offensive.

According to Turkish sources, Atatürk even staged a clever ruse to conceal the attack. A few days before 26 August he and his officers made a show of attending a fictitious “football match,” so that Allied observers would think the commander was away from the front. On the morning of August 26, a tea party announcement in Ankara was broadcast to fool spies – while Atatürk’s troops marched into positions under cover of darkness. These feints helped achieve complete surprise when the assault began.

The Element of Surprise: Meticulous Planning and Secrecy

Allied cavalry unexpectedly met stiff resistance. In one telling example, Turkish units allegedly tied wool over their horses’ hooves so that their night march would remain silent. By morning, every Turkish battery was in place. At 4:30 AM on 26 August, a tremendous artillery barrage thundered from Kocatepe, flattening the Greek outposts on the crest of Tınaztepe (another nearby peak). The Turkish troops then stormed forward. The hillside forts along the Afyon Plateau fell one by one. By mid-morning the Turks had taken Tınaztepe and opened the way to the plains below.

August 26, 1922: The Artillery Barrage Begins at Kocatepe

The firing started at dawn. Shells screamed over Kocatepe into the Greek positions for two solid hours. By 6:00 AM the first key objective (Tınaztepe) was in Turkish hands. This success on the Kocatepe ridge quickly replicated across the front. North and south of Afyon, the Turkish infantry and cavalry surged out of the mountains.

Day-by-Day Breakdown of the Advance

• 26 August (Day 1): The Turkish army shattered the enemy’s first lines. By afternoon the 5th Corps and 21st Division had broken through. In the foothills, the Greek defense disintegrated.
• 27 August (Day 2): Turkish forces pressed all across the front. By day’s end, Afyonkarahisar city was liberated; Atatürk moved his headquarters into the captured town. Elsewhere the vanguard outflanked the Greek left and right, rolling up the enemy from both flanks.
• 28–29 August (Days 3–4): The assault did not slow. Turkish units captured one position after another. By the night of 29 August they had encircled the Greek I Corps in a pincer. Greek commanders realized disaster was at hand: their withdrawal routes were cut.
• 30 August (Day 5) – The Decisive Clash: The Greeks made a final stand around Dumlupınar. On the morning of 30 August, in heavy fighting that lasted into the afternoon, the surrounded Greek divisions were utterly destroyed or captured. By 9:30 AM on 30 August Mustafa Kemal could declare “Victory.”

This timetable shows how quickly the victory unfolded – a mere five days from start to finish. The Great Offensive covered hundreds of kilometers in that week, one of the swiftest breakthroughs of the era. The sheer decisiveness of the advance surprised even Allied observers.

The Decisive Clash: The Battle of Dumlupınar (26–30 August 1922)

The climax took place at Dumlupınar (in modern Kütahya Province). Here the Greeks made their last stand. As the encirclement closed on 29 August, the Greek army’s Supreme Commander, Hacı Hasan Hatzianestis, was relieved of command (ironically, his replacement learned of it only after being captured by the Turks).

On 30 August 1922, under Atatürk’s personal direction, Turkish forces renewed the attack and annihilated the Greek II and I Corps. The odds were grim: roughly 60,000 Turkish soldiers had smashed into entrenched Greek forces numbering perhaps 200,000–250,000. The result was one-sided. In that single day Turkish losses were a few thousand, but Greek casualties and prisoners numbered in the tens of thousands. By nightfall it was clear that the entire Greek front was collapsing. Turkish artillery halted at nightfall, and the following morning the surviving Greek units began a hasty retreat.

In short, who won at Dumlupınar? The outcome was never in doubt by evening on 30 August. Turkey had achieved a crushing victory. (Estimates suggest Turkish troops suffered around 10,000 killed or wounded versus roughly 80,000 Greek casualties, including many taken prisoner.) The battle at Dumlupınar is widely recognized as the moment that ensured Turkey’s independence.

“Armies, Your First Target is the Mediterranean!”: The Pursuit Begins

With the Greek front shattered, Atatürk issued his historic directive to the victorious troops. On 1 September at a headquarters near the village of Takmak in Uşak district (not far from Dumlupınar), he told his commanders: “Ordular, İlk hedefiniz Akdeniz’dir, ileri!” – “Armies, your first target is the Mediterranean, forward!”. This order signaled that the Turkish Army should not pause but chase the fleeing Greeks all the way to the sea.

Over the next two weeks, Turkish cavalry and infantry swept westward. By 9 September 1922 Turkish units had entered İzmir, greeted by jubilant crowds as the Greek garrison fled. Under those Turkish stars and crescent flags, the Liberation of İzmir was celebrated on the very dockside. (By 18 September, the last Greek units had evacuated all of Anatolia.) The rapid advance covered some 450 kilometers in less than two weeks, and it conclusively ended any chance of a continued Greek occupation.

The Aftermath: The Armistice of Mudanya and the Birth of a Nation

Once Dumlupınar and İzmir fell, the remaining actions were diplomatic. On 11 October 1922 the Armistice of Mudanya was signed, with Greece agreeing to withdraw from Eastern Thrace. By July 1923 the Treaty of Lausanne formally ended the war, and Turkey’s borders and sovereignty were internationally recognized.

Thus, from the perspective of this park, 30 August stands as “Victory Day” (Zafer Bayramı). Every year on that date Turkey pauses to honor the victory that turned the tide of its history. The Commander-in-Chief Park is the natural stage for those commemorations. In fact, official ceremonies are held here: wreaths are placed at the Dumlupınar cemetery, and the flag is raised on Kocatepe. In Afyon and Kütahya provincial ceremonies, people reflect on the sacrifices made by the martyrs and rejoice in the independence achieved. In sum, the aftermath of the battle was the new Turkish Republic – the dream that Atatürk and his soldiers had fought and died for.

Answering the Core Question: What is the Significance of the Commander-in-Chief Historical National Park?

Symbol of National Unity: The park’s significance lies in its embodiment of Turkey’s independence struggle. It is literally the ground where the nation’s fate was decided. That historical gravity makes the park a symbol of national resilience. Every stone and monument is charged with stories of heroism. As one official source notes, these sites witnessed the “turning point of the National Struggle”. In a country that places great importance on the 1922 victory, visiting the park is like visiting the very roots of the Republic’s unity and continuity.

A Living Memorial to the War’s Martyrs: Unlike a static museum, the Commander-in-Chief Park is an open-air memorial. It commemorates the tens of thousands of Turks (and Greeks) who fell in 1922. For instance, at Kocatepe there is a 26 August Martyrs’ Cemetery honoring Lt. Col. Agâh Efendi and around 100 Yeomanry who died securing the approach up the hill. In Dumlupınar stands a vast martyrs’ cemetery with hundreds of graves. Each memorial plaque and statue (like the famous “Father and Son” or “Militia” figures) tells personal stories of sacrifice. In this way the park is a place of remembrance and mourning as well as pride.

Educational Heritage Site: The park also functions as an outdoor history lesson. The Independence Promotion Center, mentioned above, is one example: it uses models of trenches and troop movements to teach younger generations how the offensive unfolded. Beyond that, simply walking the trails and reading the inscriptions at each monument conveys the narrative. Schools sometimes bring students on field trips here. In sum, the park answers the question “why did Turkey win?” by showing its geography, timelines, and tributes side by side.

Aspiring UNESCO World Heritage: International recognition is another sign of its importance. Although not yet formally inscribed, the Commander-in-Chief Park has been proposed for UNESCO’s World Heritage tentative list, alongside other great historical landscapes. The park’s combination of natural beauty and historical integrity makes it exceptional. For example, the Temple of Zeus at Aizanoi (in Kütahya) is itself on UNESCO’s tentative list, and its inclusion underscores the region’s significance as a cultural crossroads.

In short, the park’s significance is both emotional and pedagogical. It stands as a testament to the birth of modern Turkey, a memorial to the fallen, and a destination for anyone who seeks to understand the sacrifices and strategy behind that birth. No other site conveys the climax of the Turkish War of Independence as fully as the Commander-in-Chief National Park does.

Navigating the Park: A Geographical and Thematic Tour

The Commander-in-Chief National Park is vast, so it helps to break it into sections. There are two main areas:

• Afyonkarahisar Section (Kocatepe Sector): Southwestern part of Afyon Province, anchored by Kocatepe Hill. This is where the offensive was launched. It includes Kocatepe itself (in Sultandağı district of Afyon) and surrounding memorials.
• Kütahya Section (Dumlupınar Sector): Spreads across districts of Sinanpasa in Afyon, and Altıntaş & Dumlupınar in Kütahya (even a bit into Uşak at Banaz). This is where the final battle and greatest victories took place. It centers on the Dumlupınar Şehitliği (Martyrs’ Cemetery).

Overall, the park area is roughly triangular, from Kocatepe (south of Afyon city) northwest to Dumlupınar. Below is a notional map of the key sites (dotted line divides Afyon and Kütahya sections):

• Kocatepe (Afyon Section): The 1,874-meter hilltop where Atatürk set up his command post and artillery. This is the offensive’s starting point.
• Afyonkarahisar (city): Nearby is the Zafer Müzesi (Victory Museum) in Afyon center – the former Western Front HQ for Atatürk.
• Other Afyon sites: Memorials like the 26 August Martyrs’ Cemetery, Çiğiltepe Martyrdom, and the Independence Promotion Center are scattered across the plateau south of Afyon.
• Dumlupınar (Kütahya Section): Located ~80 km northwest of Afyon city. Site of the final battles on 26–30 August. The Dumlupınar Şehitliği is here, a large cemetery with multiple monuments.
• Takmak (Headquarters Monument): Just west of Dumlupınar, the “First Target” monument marks where Atatürk gave his famous order.
• Nearby Kütahya: Atatürk’s military headquarters in central Kütahya (restored as a museum) and the Independence War Museum.

(An interactive map of these sites is highly recommended for visitors; online maps often mark each key monument. Note that distances can be large – roughly 90 km separate Kocatepe from Dumlupınar – so a car is very useful.)

Park Overview: Spanning Afyonkarahisar, Kütahya, and Uşak

The park’s official territory stretches across three provinces. In Afyonkarahisar, it covers Sultandağı, Sinanpaşa, and Şuhut districts. In Kütahya province, it includes parts of Altıntaş and Dumlupınar districts. The third province, Uşak, enters only because Atatürk’s famous “Mediterranean” order was given at Takmak in Banaz district of Uşak. Overall the park area is immense – larger than 400 square kilometers – and is managed by Turkey’s National Parks authorities.

The terrain is mostly hilly and high plateau (around 1,000–1,800 meters elevation). Visitors will drive from plain to plateau to rocky hilltops. The forests here are mostly pine and oak with patches of maquis and wildflowers in spring. Among historical sites, the landscape helps tell the story: the slopes of Kocatepe give commanding views over the Afyon plain, while the rolling fields of Dumlupınar recall the ground where foot soldiers clashed.

The Afyonkarahisar Section: Where the Offensive Began

Kocatepe: The Command Post

The Atatürk statue on Kocatepe Hill, where the Great Offensive was launched. From this vantage point (1,874 m altitude) Atatürk observed the battlefield (photo by Ostique, Wikimedia Commons).

Kocatepe is the most sacred spot in the Afyon section. On 26 August 1922, Atatürk and his generals climbed to this hilltop at dawn. From here they surveyed the enemy lines laid out on the Afyonkarahisar Plateau and issued the attack orders. Today, a stone memorial monument (built in 1953) and a large bronze statue of Atatürk (added in 1993) mark the summit.

The hill is about 8 km south of Kocatepe town (in Sultandağı) and roughly 20 km south of Afyon city center. The monument site includes a parking area and a flag plaza. From here one sees west across the fields toward Dumlupınar, and east toward Suhut – the very terrain that Turkish soldiers advanced across.

The Kocatepe Monument and Inscriptions: A Detailed Look

The main monument on the peak is a 7.5-meter bronze statue of Atatürk, flanked by two soldiers, atop a stone base. Surrounding the statue are panels with Turkish War of Independence chronicles. A brief inscription explains that on this spot the final battles of 1922 were commanded. For history buffs, it’s interesting to note that the 1953 original memorial (with inscribed wreaths) remains here, even as the newer statue was added on one side.

Where Did Atatürk Direct the Battle From?

The exact coordinates of Kocatepe (38.6474°N, 30.6175°E) give Atatürk a sweeping panorama. Guides often point out that, on 26–27 August, he and his generals stood around the same stone platform. On clear days you can still trace the view that he had: looking across flat fields to where Dumlupınar lies, with Afyon rising behind you to the north. Standing on Kocatepe is a powerful experience – one can almost imagine the tense early-morning silence before the barrage began.

For a visitor, the site is solemn and powerful. Quiet reflection at Kocatepe is common: many place wreaths, and photographers climb up to capture the statue with the sunrise. Note that a small canteen/cafe here serves refreshments to tourists, and there are plaques explaining the history.

Victory Museum (Zafer Müzesi) in Afyonkarahisar City Center

Back in the city of Afyonkarahisar, one of the first stops should be the Zafer Müzesi (Victory Museum), located on Birlik Caddesi. This building has its own legendary status: it is where Atatürk, İsmet İnönü, Fevzi Çakmak and their staff lived and worked in late August 1922. Under their roof they drew up the plans for the assault.

Today the museum’s rooms are arranged just as they were: meeting rooms and offices have been refurnished with period furniture and war maps. Exhibits include uniforms, weapons, and documents from the campaign. In fact, one description notes that “the building served as headquarters for Mustafa Kemal… and army commanders prior to the Great Offensive in August 1922”. As such, the museum is one of the most poignant sites of the park.

The Victory Museum is open on weekday mornings (generally 9–12:30 and 13:30–17:00). Entrance is currently very inexpensive or free, but hours can change so check ahead. Unlike modern museums, photography inside this one may be restricted – so ask on arrival. (For comparison, the Afyon Archaeology Museum on Konya Road specifically prohibits indoor photography, though it allows pictures in its outside garden. The Victory Museum’s rules can vary, so clarify at the front desk.)

Other Memorials and Trenches in the Afyonkarahisar Sector

Spread around the Afyon area are additional memorials from the 1922 campaign. A few notable ones:

• 26 August Martyrs’ Cemetery (Kocatepe): At the foot of Kocatepe’s northern slope stands a cemetery dedicated to Lt. Col. Agâh Efendi and about one hundred cavalrymen who died holding the approach to the hill. The simple memorial (built in 1981) includes a black marble monument and a walkway of tombstones. It is a short walk from the Kocatepe parking lot.
• İstiklal (Independence) Promotion Center: Along the road between Afyon and Kocatepe is a panoramic display – the so-called “Independence Promotion Center.” Inside are life-size models of battlefield scenes, cannons, and inscribed panels. It was established to “instill consciousness in future generations” about how the homeland was won. In short, it is a mini-museum with relief dioramas – useful for those who want a quick, dramatic overview.
• Çiğiltepe Martyrdom: On the western approaches of Afyon lies Çiğiltepe, where Colonel Reşat (and later his son Kemal Bey) held out on 27–28 August and then fell. A pyramid-shaped monument (built 1993) marks the spot where the column made their stand. The story here is famous; Reşat Bey killed himself when he thought he had failed his mission, only for his son to continue the fight. The memorial park has bullet-scarred rock and a grave.
• Other Hilltop Memorials: In the Afyon-Şuhut road valley are small monuments commemorating various commanders (e.g. Major Reşat Çiğiltepe, Lieutenant Agah, etc.). These are usually simple stone obelisks or busts by the roadside. If you have a car, it’s easy to detour to see one or two of these as you leave the city.

Overall, the Afyonkarahisar side is relatively concentrated: you could cover the main sites (Kocatepe hilltop, Victory Museum, and one or two cemeteries) in half a day to a day. Each has signage (in Turkish and often English) explaining the context. The experience here is of standing where the offensive began.

The Kütahya Section: The Site of Decisive Victory

Dumlupınar: The Epicenter of the Final Battle

Statue of a Turkish soldier (representing the “Mehmetçik”) at Dumlupınar Martyrs’ Cemetery. This cemetery is where the army of the Turkish Republic achieved its final victory on 30 August 1922.

The other major section of the park lies in Kütahya Province, centered on the town of Dumlupınar. This is where Turkish forces won the climactic battle on 30 August. The terrain here is more open and rolling than the Afyon heights. Today it is studded with graves and commemorative statues. The core of this area is the Dumlupınar Şehitliği (Martyrs’ Cemetery), where many of the fallen lie.

The Dumlupınar Martyrs’ Cemetery: A Place of Solemn Remembrance

Established by the Ministry of Culture, the Dumlupınar Şehitliği contains the graves of some 600 identified Turkish soldiers. Arranged in rows on the hillside, each gravestone bears a name, rank, and date of death. Visitors walk among them on paved paths. The centerpiece is an impressive mausoleum structure, topped by a flag, under which unidentified soldiers are interred.

Within the cemetery complex are three major monuments:

• A Mehmetçik (Soldier) Monument: a bronze statue of an infantryman with rifle, symbolizing all Turkish troops lost.
• A Militia Monument: honoring the villagers and volunteers (“milis”) from around the region who joined the fight. This is often depicted by a motherly figure or civilian with a weapon.
• The “Three Commanders” Monument: a memorial grouping with busts of Atatürk, İsmet İnönü, and Fevzi Çakmak – recognizing the three supreme commanders of the Victory.

Each has deep meaning: for instance, the “Father and Son” scene (in some accounts at this site) shows a dying soldier embraced by his child, symbolizing family sacrifice. The stone architecture uses pyramids and Turkish motifs, giving an air of monumentality and respect. Informational plaques explain who these figures represent. For the visitor, wandering this cemetery is a very emotional experience – it is meant to be a place of national memory, where wreaths are laid each Victory Day.

(For more background: one visitor’s guide notes that the Martyrdom has “gravestones of 600 soldiers… (and) the Militia Monument, Three Commanders Monument… and the Mehmetçik Monument, built to commemorate all our soldiers”.)

What is the Meaning of the Monuments at Dumlupınar?

As noted, each statue or relief carries symbolism:

• The Father-Son Monument (if present) represents the generational continuity of sacrifice.
• The Militia Monument honors civilian volunteers (many rural inhabitants joined on 30 August, and some perished).
• The Three Commanders (Mehmetçik) emphasizes that Atatürk’s victory was shared by his top generals.
• The Mehmetçik statue conveys the anonymous common soldier’s heroism.

Together, they form a narrative tableau: they speak of unity (regular army + militia + leaders), of loss (the father-and-son), and of triumph (Atatürk’s determination).

Architectural Symbolism Explained

Some travel guides interpret the cemetery’s architecture as reflecting classical Turkish styles. For example, the pyramidal mausoleum walls evoke ancient tombs, suggesting permanence. The bronze reliefs of horsemen or lions (found at Aslantaş nearby) echo older Anatolian empires. Visitors often remark on the tension between somber funeral art and triumphant national iconography in one place. (For instance, the park designers even included lines from Mehmet Akif Ersoy’s poem on one sculpture, tying poetry and history together.)

From a practical viewpoint, the Dumlupınar Martyrdom is very accessible: it is about 5 km south of Dumlupınar town. There is a parking area and flagpole. It is open daily and free to the public (as are most monuments here).

Atatürk’s Command House and Museum

Near Dumlupınar, in the town of Kütahya, there is another important site: Atatürk’s headquarters house. In the summer of 1922, Kütahya (then spelled “Kutahia”) served as a secondary command center during the advance to Dumlupınar. Atatürk and his staff used a modest stone house in town as a base of operations. Damaged during the war, it was later rebuilt and restored in 2003. The Atatürk Headquarters House is now a small museum. Inside one finds historical photographs of the commanders, copies of orders, and personal items from the Kütahya period. The garden contains the famous broken locomotive car that was used to transport Atatürk; legend says it was sabotaged by retreating Greeks.

Additionally, in Kütahya city center (a few kilometers from Dumlupınar), there is a War of Independence Museum (opened 1997). This museum is dedicated to the entire War of Independence and has dozens of artifacts – uniforms, rifles, documents – from the Dumlupınar battle. An online source notes it contains “over 130 artifacts” related to the conflict. These Kütahya sites are off the beaten path for many foreign tourists, but they enrich the picture: they show how Atatürk’s campaign reached into both Anatolia and the Ottoman administrative heartland.

The Natural Landscape: Flora, Fauna, and Topography of the Park

Though history is the focus, don’t overlook the park’s natural side. The terrain played a key role in 1922 and shapes the visitor’s experience now. On the Afyon side, the slopes of Kocatepe are covered in pine and cedar groves; wildflowers carpet the fields in spring. In the plains below (near Şuhut), wheat fields and pastures stretch to the horizon. On the Dumlupınar side, the land is more open and gently rolling, with oak scrub and almond orchards.

Wildlife is modest: one might see jackals, foxes or wild boar, and many birds (raptors circling above, sparrows and crows among the ruins). The Bosphorus and Mediterranean climates clash here, so summers are hot and dry while winters can bring snow to the hilltops. Geographically, the height of Kocatepe (1,874 m) gave the Turks a commanding view of the battlefield; today it still rewards hardy hikers who climb to the summit. In short, the park’s landscape is both scenic and didactic – understanding the hills and valleys adds insight to the campaign’s story.

Planning Your Visit: A Practical Guide for Travelers

How to Get to Başkomutan National Park

• By Car: Driving is the easiest way to reach the park. From Ankara, take the D750/E90 motorway southwest to Afyon (about 3–4 hours, 250 km). From İstanbul, head to Bursa then follow the O-5 and D650 highways (about 450 km, roughly 5–6 hours). From İzmir, go east on the D650 via Uşak to Afyon (about 220 km, 3–4 hours). Highway signs for Afyonkarahisar or Kütahya will lead you. Note that Kocatepe is south of Afyon city – follow signs for Sultandağı, then a branch road up to Kocatepe. Dumlupınar is north-west in Kütahya province, signposted from Kütahya city via Dumlupınar or from Afyon via Başmakçı. Inside the park areas, the main roads are paved – but expect some smaller gravel tracks by the monuments. A car is highly recommended to cover the spread-out sites at your own pace.
• By Bus: Turkey has excellent intercity bus service. Both Afyonkarahisar and Kütahya have central bus terminals with frequent coaches from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, and other cities. From Afyon town you can take a local taxi or dolmuş (minibus) towards Kocatepe (or hire a taxi for a day). From Kütahya or Afyon terminals, taxis or minibuses can also bring you to Dumlupınar or Gökbel. Do note that Kocatepe itself is remote – buses do not go all the way up the mountain, but one can reach the nearby village of Kocatepe.
• By Train: Both Afyonkarahisar and Kütahya lie on Turkey’s rail network. Afyon’s main station is Ali Çetinkaya (built in 1939), which lies on routes from İzmir, Konya and Ankara. For instance, the Pamukkale Express (Izmir–Denizli) and the Izmir-Afyon-Ankara trains stop there. From the station you could grab a taxi to the Victory Museum (only a few km away). Kütahya also has a station with regional trains from Eskişehir/Ankara. However, train schedules can be limited, so plan ahead. In general, you would likely still need a taxi or bus to reach the park sites from the station.
• Getting Around Inside the Park: Once you have arrived in Afyon or Kütahya, the sites are still scattered. A rental car or private tour is ideal. National Park roads and monument parking areas are available at most key sites (Kocatepe hilltop, Victory Museum, Dumlupınar cemetery). Some small monuments on country roads may have only dirt parking. You will spend much time driving between the Afyon sector and the Dumlupınar sector (about 80–90 km apart). If driving both, consider spending a night in each city (Afyon and Kütahya) to break up the trip.

When to Go: What is the Best Time of Year to Visit?

• Spring (April–June): The countryside is green and wildflowers bloom. Temperatures are mild (15–25°C). This is arguably the best time for weather and landscape beauty. Victory Day (30 August) ceremonies won’t be in full swing yet, but the memorials are open.
• Summer (July–September): It can be quite hot (30–35°C) in the lowlands, though Kocatepe’s altitude remains cooler. Summer is the busiest tourist season. The highlight is 30 August Victory Day. On August 30th (and sometimes a few days around it), large official ceremonies are held at Kocatepe and Dumlupınar. If you come then, you will see wreath-laying, national flags, and perhaps veterans in attendance. However, hotels may sell out, and the sun is strong.
• Autumn (October–November): Crops have been harvested, and temperatures drop (to 10–20°C). This is a quiet, pleasant time for visiting. The autumn colors can be nice on the hillsides.
• Winter (December–March): The park is open year-round, but winter can bring cold weather and even snow at altitude. Museums in Afyon and Dumlupınar may have limited hours or be closed on holidays. However, you may encounter many Turkish visitors on January 30th, which is Atatürk’s death anniversary, when people pay respects at monuments.
• National Holidays: Apart from 30 August, the second big date is 10 November (Atatürk’s memorial day). On 10 November at 9:05 AM, ceremonies pause nationwide – even in Afyon and Kütahya there may be a moment of silence at 9:05. Also, 19 May (Youth Day) and 23 April (Childrens’ Day) sometimes bring school field trips.

In short, late spring to early fall (April–October) is ideal for weather and activities. If you want the full experience of national commemorations, plan for end of August. Otherwise a quieter, off-season visit will let you reflect in peace.

How Much Time is Needed to See the Whole Park?

• The Express Tour (1 Day): With an early start, you can get a summary of the park in one long day. For example:
  1. Morning: Drive to Kocatepe first thing (from Afyon city center). Spend an hour at the hilltop monuments.
  2. Midday: Return to Afyon city. Visit the Zafer (Victory) Museum. Have lunch in Afyon.
  3. Afternoon: Drive west to Dumlupınar (~90 km, ~1.5 hours). Spend late afternoon at the Dumlupınar Martyrdom and monuments.
  4. Evening: Return to Afyon or stay overnight in Dumlupınar/Kütahya.
• The Comprehensive Tour (2 Days): To see everything in depth, allocate two days:
  • Day 1 (Afyon area): Explore Kocatepe, Çiğiltepe, Independence Center, and the Victory Museum at a relaxed pace. Stay overnight in Afyonkarahisar (plenty of hotels, from luxury thermal spas to modest pensions).
  • Day 2 (Kütahya/Dumlupınar): Head to Kütahya’s Atatürk House and Independence War Museum in the morning (if interested), then spend the afternoon at Dumlupınar Şehitliği. You can also visit the First Target (İlk Hedef) Monument at Takmak nearby (where the famous order was given). Overnight in nearby town or return to Afyon.

With two days, you have time to drive slowly, take photos, and perhaps detour to other memorials. By contrast, one day is very rushed and leaves little room for weather or unexpected delays. Most visitors find two days more comfortable if schedule allows.

Park Logistics and Facilities

• Opening Hours and Entrance Fees: The National Park itself has no single gate or entry point – the various monuments and sites are open to the public daily. Entrance is generally free at open-air memorials and cemeteries. The Victory Museum in Afyon is subject to normal museum hours (weekdays) and may charge a small fee (~5 TL as of 2024, but confirm on site). The Atatürk Houses in Suhut/Kütahya are free small museums. Hours for these can change, so check Turkey’s Culture & Tourism website or local listings before you go.
• Guided Tours: There are no mandatory guided tours. Some travel agencies or local tourism offices may offer half-day or full-day guided tours of the park (especially on Victory Day). Private licensed guides can be hired for a fee to explain each site in detail. Otherwise, most information is via plaques. If you are a non-Turkish speaker, it may help to hire an English-speaking guide, as a lot of the on-site text is only in Turkish.
• Facilities (Visitor Centers, Restrooms, Cafes): Facilities are fairly basic.
  • Restrooms: You will find toilet facilities at the Victory Museum and at Kocatepe’s visitor area. Dumlupınar cemetery has a small café building with toilets. However, do not expect many restrooms off major roads.
  • Food and Drinks: Near Afyon and Kütahya city there are all the usual restaurants and cafes. On the battlefield sites, options are limited to park canteens or kiosks. At Kocatepe hilltop there is a small refreshment stand selling tea and snacks. Along the route between Afyon and Kütahya you will find highway petrol-station restaurants. It’s wise to carry water and a few snacks, especially in summer, because facilities become sparse once you leave the cities.
  • Visitor Centers: Afyon has a Tourism Information office by the bus station. There is no centralized “park” visitor center – each section is independent.

Is the Commander-in-Chief National Park Worth Visiting? Our Verdict

Absolutely – for anyone with a love of history or culture. This park is unique. It offers a coherent, walk-through encounter with a defining moment of 20th-century history. For Turkish citizens, it is a site of pilgrimage and patriotic pride. For international travelers, it is an off-the-beaten-path opportunity to learn about a dramatic story often little-known outside Turkey. The storytelling is literal: you see where the orders were given, where the fighting happened, and where the dead were honored.

• History buffs will delight in the detail: uniforms at the Victory Museum, battlefield layouts at the Promotion Center, and the actual words on Atatürk’s monuments.
• Nature lovers will enjoy the vistas: the pine-shrouded Kocatepe summit and the rolling fields around Dumlupınar. The park is more varied and scenic than many realize.
• Families and educators find it an invaluable live lesson. Young people in Turkey often visit on school trips (and children are welcome to wander the grounds and see the old tanks and planes on display).
• Casual tourists might combine it with a trip to the spa city of Afyon or the ceramics capital of Kütahya, but we think the park itself can stand alone as a two-day trip.

One caveat: if you only have a brief time in Turkey and your interests lie elsewhere (like Istanbul’s palaces or Cappadocia’s moonscape), then by all means, focus on those. But if you cherish deep historical insight and a solemn, moving experience, you will not regret visiting the Commander-in-Chief Park. It is, in our verdict, more than “just another national park.” It’s the final chapter of a war and the first chapter of a republic.

Can You Visit with Children?

Yes – and it can be very educational. The park does not have any “age restrictions.” In fact, many Turkish families bring children. Some tips:

• Keep it interactive: Point out the heroic stories as you walk by each memorial (grandparents or parents often explain the significance of each monument to children).
• For little ones, focus on visuals: the Atatürk statues, the old tank or airplane occasionally found near museums, and the beautifully kept graves.
• Bring snacks and water especially in summer, as facilities are sparse.
• Safety: The terrain is gentle (no dangerous cliffs), but it’s outdoors and some unpaved areas exist. Supervise kids around any display items.
• Museums: The Victory Museum can interest older children, but younger ones might be restless in indoor exhibits. Plan shorter stints inside, then let them run around outside in the gardens or wide plains.
• Educational resources: If you have a Turkish phrasebook or guidebook, there are many kid-friendly translations of famous quotes (for example, the “Armies, first target is the Mediterranean” slogan, and simple narratives of 1922).

Many guides say a park visit can be a meaningful family history lesson. One bonus: on August 30 (Victory Day) the entire country has festivities and children may see parades and hear marches.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What is the official name of the park?
A: The official Turkish name is Başkomutan Tarihi Millî Parkı. In English it is rendered as “Commander-in-Chief Historical National Park.” It refers to Atatürk’s title Başkomutan (Commander-in-Chief).

Q: Where exactly did the Great Offensive start?
A: The offensive began at Kocatepe hill on 26 August 1922. At sunrise Turkish batteries on Kocatepe opened fire on Greek lines. In our park, Kocatepe and its monument mark that spot. Nearby, the Turkish Zafer Müze in Afyon memorializes the command in depth.

Q: Is photography allowed in the park and museums?
A: Generally, photography at the outdoor sites (monuments, cemeteries) is allowed and common. Visitors routinely take photos of statues and landscapes. Inside the museums (Victory Museum, etc.) the rules can vary. For example, Afyon’s Archaeology Museum explicitly prohibits indoor cameras, and it’s wise to assume similar restrictions inside the Victory Museum’s exhibit halls. As a rule, ask the attendant or look for posted signs. Camera use is usually fine in the museum gardens and exterior areas.

Q: Is the park accessible for people with disabilities?
A: Terrain-wise, much of the park is open and flat. The main paths at Dumlupınar and Kocatepe are paved or graveled, and some exhibits (like the Victory Museum ground floor) are wheelchair-accessible. However, keep in mind that Kocatepe is on a steep hill – the drive-up road is paved but high-clearance vehicles help. The summit area has ramps and a paved plaza, though some stairs remain. Dumlupınar’s Martyrs’ Cemetery has wide walkways among the graves, but there may be a few steps around the mausoleum. Disabled visitors can see nearly all sites, but may need assistance at certain points. It is best to call ahead to each museum for specifics on ramps and facilities.

Q: Are there any special events or ceremonies held at the park?
A: Yes. The biggest is 30 August (Victory Day) each year, marking the 1922 victory. On that morning ceremonies take place at multiple locations: wreaths are laid at Kocatepe, Dumlupınar and other cemeteries, with military honors and speeches. Local schools and officials attend. Likewise, on 10 November (Atatürk Memorial Day), small commemorations happen. Finally, each year around late August there is an Independence War Remembrance program, sometimes including historical reenactments or scout camps (indeed, Dumlupınar hosts a youth camp then). These events can be moving to witness, but they are optional. The park is open every day, so off-season visitors can enjoy it quietly too.

Q: Can I use a drone in the national park?
A: Generally no. Turkey has strict regulations for drone use, especially near military or memorial sites. Flying drones over battlefields and monuments is typically prohibited without special permits. Local authorities have the right to forbid drones in protected areas. In practice, we recommend leaving the drone at home. Even if tempting for aerial shots, the risk of confiscation or fines is high – and you’d disturb the solemn atmosphere. (Besides, there are already great viewpoints: the two embedded photos above show the perspectives without drone use.)