10 fantastiske byer i Europa som turister overser
Mens mange av Europas praktfulle byer fortsatt er overskygget av sine mer kjente kolleger, er det en skattebod av fortryllede byer. Fra den kunstneriske appellen...
In the lowland fields of Podravina, where dairy herds still mark the rhythm of village life, prga (or prgica) sits on the table like a small, fiery monument to thrift and skill. It looks modest at first glance: small cone-shaped cheeses, stained warm orange from paprika, often lined up on a wooden board beside cured pork and coarse bread. Yet the flavour carries far more weight than the size suggests – salty, sharp, lightly fermented, with a slow chilli heat that lingers on the tongue.
Prga belongs to a family of fresh-cured cheeses from northern Croatia, shared between Podravina, Međimurje and Bjelovar, where related versions carry names such as turoš and kvargl. All start from humble fresh cow’s milk curd, left to sour naturally, then drained, salted and mixed with ground red paprika and sometimes garlic. The mixture is shaped by hand into small cones and left to dry in the open air or over smoke, which deepens both colour and aroma.
In Podravina, the name prgica or prga usually refers to the local variant: slightly larger cones that begin with curd pressed more firmly during draining. That pressing step gives a denser paste and makes shaping easier. The milk ferments with the help of natural microflora, the curd is heated gently for a few hours, then strained in cloth for a day. Cooks season the crumbly, still-fresh cheese with salt, sweet or hot paprika, garlic and often a spoon or two of thick cream, then shape and dry it on racks or, in older houses, above the hearth.
For generations, prga earned its place as food for work in the fields rather than for show. Podravka’s regional recipe collection describes it as a portable, sturdy cheese that kept far longer than plain fresh curd and that often travelled with farm workers, shepherds, vineyard crews, pilgrims and other travellers. Once fully dry, women would sometimes crush the cones into wooden tubs, cover them with sour cream, salt them again, pack the mass tightly and serve this richer “sir nabitek” during heavy spring work.
Modern dairies in Podravina still produce prgice on a larger scale, often shaping each cone by hand and smoking some batches in short intervals, with drying days in between. A contemporary producer describes a simple base formula – well-drained fresh cow’s cheese seasoned generously with salt, sweet paprika, hot paprika, pepper and garlic – formed into cones or small pyramids around 100 grams each, dried and smoked until a firm rind forms while the interior stays sliceable and pleasantly sharp.
For a home cook outside Croatia, prga occupies an interesting space. Technically it is a cheese, yet its size and seasoning make it behave more like a spreadable garnish or intense table condiment. A single cone can anchor a simple plate of boiled potatoes and greens or act as the spicy accent beside cured meat, sausages from the grill or a platter of raw vegetables. The flavour profile sits somewhere between an aged cottage cheese, a Balkan urnebes spread and a Hungarian-style hot paprika cheese, though prga’s cone shape and drying give it a distinct identity.
The version below follows the traditional structure – soured milk, cooked curd, pressing, shaping and air-drying – but adjusts timings and temperatures for a modern kitchen. It leans toward a Podravina-style prga: bright paprika colour, clear chilli warmth and enough drying time for a firm, sliceable cone that still crumbles slightly under the knife. The method remains surprisingly simple once the process becomes familiar, and the reward is a cheese that feels deeply regional yet fits easily into any savoury board, from rustic breakfast to an evening spread with wine.
10
porsjoner45
minutter180
minutter115
kcal3–7
dagerPrga is a traditional spicy cone-shaped cheese from Podravina in northern Croatia, made by fermenting cow’s milk into curd, draining it, then mixing the fresh cheese with salt, paprika and garlic. The seasoned mass is shaped by hand into small cones and left to dry for several days, sometimes with a short smoking stage, until a thin rind forms and the flavour turns sharp, salty and pleasantly hot. This recipe outlines a controlled, home-kitchen method: gently cooking the naturally soured milk, pressing the curd overnight, seasoning with sweet and hot paprika plus a little cream, then shaping and drying for 2–5 days. The result is a compact cheese ideal for slicing, crumbling or spreading alongside cured meats, potatoes and hearty bread.
Fresh cow’s milk, 3 L (whole, preferably non-homogenized) — base for the curd; raw or low-heat pasteurized milk gives the best texture.
Plain yogurt or buttermilk, 150 ml (live cultures, unsweetened) — starter culture to guide fermentation in a modern kitchen.
Non-iodized fine salt, 1 teaspoon — very light salting of the milk; helps flavour and curd development.
Well-drained fresh curd from above, ~1.1–1.2 kg — cooled and pressed; forms the base paste.
Thick sour cream (20–25% fat), 150–200 g — softens the curd and adds richness; traditional recipes often mix curd with cream.
Non-iodized fine salt, 18–20 g (about 3 flat teaspoons) — main salting; adjust slightly to taste, bearing in mind the cheese will concentrate as it dries.
Sweet ground paprika, 2 tablespoons — provides colour and a gentle pepper aroma.
Hot ground paprika or chilli flakes, 1–2 teaspoons — gives the signature heat; adjust to preference.
Fresh garlic, 2–3 small cloves, very finely minced or grated — classic addition in many Podravina and Međimurje versions0.
Freshly ground black pepper, ½ teaspoon — subtle background spice.
Optional: caraway seeds, ½ teaspoon, lightly crushed — regional but not universal; adds a faint aromatic note.
Optional for surface: extra sweet paprika, 1–2 teaspoons — for dusting cone tips or sides before drying.
Cold-smoking setup — a smoker that holds 20–25°C (cool to the touch).
Mild hardwood sawdust or chips — such as beech, alder or fruitwood, for short smoking intervals.
Warm the milk and add culture - Pour the 3 L of milk into a very clean pot and warm gently to about 28–30°C, just slightly above room temperature. Stir in the yogurt or buttermilk and the 1 teaspoon of salt.
Ferment until set - Cover the pot with a lid and a clean cloth. Leave in a warm, draft-free spot for 24–36 hours, until the milk forms a soft, yoghurt-like gel and smells pleasantly tangy rather than sharp.
Cut the curd - Once set, use a long knife to cut the curd into a grid of roughly 2 cm cubes, reaching down to the bottom of the pot.
Heat very gently - Place the pot over low heat. Warm the curd slowly to around 40–45°C over 45–60 minutes, stirring only occasionally with a slotted spoon so the cubes firm up without breaking into paste. The whey should look yellow-green and clear, not milky.
Rest the curd in whey - Turn off the heat and let the curd rest in the warm whey for another 30–60 minutes so it firms further.
Strain through cloth - Line a large colander with a double layer of clean cheesecloth or fine-weave cotton. Ladle the curds and whey into the cloth, then let the bulk of the whey drain for 30 minutes without pressing.
Gather and hang - Gather the corners of the cloth, tie them securely and hang the bundle over a bowl or sink. Let the curd drain for about 12 hours at cool room temperature or in a very cool pantry.
Press the curd (Podravina style) - Transfer the cloth bundle to a flat surface, place a tray or plate on top, then weight it with 2–3 kg (for example, a heavy pot filled with water). Press for 6–8 hours in the fridge or in a very cool room. This firmer curd matches the characteristic denser prgice from Podravina.
Prepare the seasoning mix - In a large bowl, whisk together the sour cream, 18–20 g salt, sweet paprika, hot paprika, garlic, black pepper and optional caraway until smooth and evenly coloured.
Break up the curd - Unwrap the pressed curd. It should feel firm but still crumbly. Break it into small pieces with clean hands or a fork and add to the bowl with the seasoned cream.
Mix to a cohesive paste - Work the cheese and seasoning together by hand or with a sturdy spoon for 3–5 minutes, until the mass looks uniform, smooth and stains the hands orange-red. Taste a small piece and adjust salt or heat slightly if needed.
Divide into portions - Weigh or eyeball the mixture into 10–12 even pieces, roughly 90–110 g each, in line with typical commercial prgice size.
Form cones by hand - With slightly damp hands, roll each piece into a ball, then shape it into a cone by rolling one side longer in the palm while pressing the opposite side flatter. Aim for a base about 4–5 cm across and a height of 6–7 cm. Smooth the surface with the palm so there are no deep cracks.
Dust with paprika (optional) - If using, lightly dip the tip of each cone in sweet paprika or sprinkle a thin veil over the sides for a stronger colour band.
Place on drying rack - Arrange the shaped cones on a mesh rack or perforated tray lined with baking paper, leaving space between them for air circulation.
Air-dry in a cool, airy place - Set the rack in a cool room (10–16°C) with free air flow and low humidity. Turn the cones once or twice a day. After about 48 hours, the surface should feel dry to the touch and a thin rind will start to form. Traditional prgice often dry for around two days, giving a firm yet still sliceable centre.
Extend drying for a stronger cheese (optional) - For a sharper, more robust texture, continue drying for 3–5 days, turning daily. The cones will lose more moisture, shrink slightly and become more crumbly when cut.
Cold-smoke in short sessions (optional) - For a smoked variant, transfer the partially dried prgice to a cold smoker set around 20–25°C. Smoke for 1–2 hours with mild hardwood, then return them to the rack to rest and air-dry for a day. Repeat once or twice for a pronounced aroma without a dark, harsh crust.
Final rest - Once the cones look dry, feel firm and have a thin, elastic rind, chill them for at least 12 hours before serving. This rest helps the interior set and the flavours settle.
Approximate values for one serving (about 1/12 of the batch), based on standard reference data for cottage cheese and sour cream and excluding drying losses:
| Næringsstoff | Per serving (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Kalorier | ~115 kcal |
| Karbohydrater | ~3 g |
| Protein | ~10 g |
| Fett | ~7 g |
| Fiber | 0 g |
| Natrium | ~350–400 mg |
| Viktige allergener | Dairy (milk) |
Mens mange av Europas praktfulle byer fortsatt er overskygget av sine mer kjente kolleger, er det en skattebod av fortryllede byer. Fra den kunstneriske appellen...
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