In the lowland fields of Podravina, where dairy herds still mark the rhythm of village life, prga (or prgica) sits on the table like a small, fiery monument to thrift and skill. It looks modest at first glance: small cone-shaped cheeses, stained warm orange from paprika, often lined up on a wooden board beside cured pork and coarse bread. Yet the flavour carries far more weight than the size suggests – salty, sharp, lightly fermented, with a slow chilli heat that lingers on the tongue.
Prga belongs to a family of fresh-cured cheeses from northern Croatia, shared between Podravina, Međimurje and Bjelovar, where related versions carry names such as turoš and kvargl. All start from humble fresh cow’s milk curd, left to sour naturally, then drained, salted and mixed with ground red paprika and sometimes garlic. The mixture is shaped by hand into small cones and left to dry in the open air or over smoke, which deepens both colour and aroma.
In Podravina, the name prgica or prga usually refers to the local variant: slightly larger cones that begin with curd pressed more firmly during draining. That pressing step gives a denser paste and makes shaping easier. The milk ferments with the help of natural microflora, the curd is heated gently for a few hours, then strained in cloth for a day. Cooks season the crumbly, still-fresh cheese with salt, sweet or hot paprika, garlic and often a spoon or two of thick cream, then shape and dry it on racks or, in older houses, above the hearth.
For generations, prga earned its place as food for work in the fields rather than for show. Podravka’s regional recipe collection describes it as a portable, sturdy cheese that kept far longer than plain fresh curd and that often travelled with farm workers, shepherds, vineyard crews, pilgrims and other travellers. Once fully dry, women would sometimes crush the cones into wooden tubs, cover them with sour cream, salt them again, pack the mass tightly and serve this richer “sir nabitek” during heavy spring work.
Modern dairies in Podravina still produce prgice on a larger scale, often shaping each cone by hand and smoking some batches in short intervals, with drying days in between. A contemporary producer describes a simple base formula – well-drained fresh cow’s cheese seasoned generously with salt, sweet paprika, hot paprika, pepper and garlic – formed into cones or small pyramids around 100 grams each, dried and smoked until a firm rind forms while the interior stays sliceable and pleasantly sharp.
For a home cook outside Croatia, prga occupies an interesting space. Technically it is a cheese, yet its size and seasoning make it behave more like a spreadable garnish or intense table condiment. A single cone can anchor a simple plate of boiled potatoes and greens or act as the spicy accent beside cured meat, sausages from the grill or a platter of raw vegetables. The flavour profile sits somewhere between an aged cottage cheese, a Balkan urnebes spread and a Hungarian-style hot paprika cheese, though prga’s cone shape and drying give it a distinct identity.
The version below follows the traditional structure – soured milk, cooked curd, pressing, shaping and air-drying – but adjusts timings and temperatures for a modern kitchen. It leans toward a Podravina-style prga: bright paprika colour, clear chilli warmth and enough drying time for a firm, sliceable cone that still crumbles slightly under the knife. The method remains surprisingly simple once the process becomes familiar, and the reward is a cheese that feels deeply regional yet fits easily into any savoury board, from rustic breakfast to an evening spread with wine.