Alexandria

Alexandria-Travel-Guide-Travel-S-Helper
Alexandria, Egypt’s storied Mediterranean port, is a city of two faces: an ancient capital of learning and a modern seaside escape. This guide reveals how to explore both. Stroll the light-filled halls of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina and descend into underground Greco‑Roman tombs. Admire the Citadel of Qaitbay standing where the Lighthouse of Alexandria once loomed. Sip mint tea on the Corniche, hunt down the city’s famed seafood, and wander its Ottoman souks. We cover logistics too – from 2025’s new underwater archaeology exhibits to the planned Alexandria Metro. Whether planning a quick trip from Cairo or a 3‑day vacation, discover when to go, where to stay, and how to travel like a local in Alexandria. Julia G. puts it simply: “Here history meets the sea.”

Alexandria occupies a singular position on the Mediterranean shore, its name evoking both antiquity and continuity. Spanning roughly forty kilometres along Egypt’s northern coast, the city stands at the western fringe of the Nile delta. It is Egypt’s second city after Cairo, yet the largest on the Mediterranean; within the Arab world it ranks fourth by population, and across Africa it falls ninth both as a city and as an urban agglomeration. In Arabic, الإسكندرية, its vowels carry the weight of centuries.

Founded in 331 BC by Alexander of Macedon, Alexandria rose swiftly from the precincts of an earlier settlement, Rhacotis, to supplant Memphis as Egypt’s seat of power under the Ptolemaic line. For nearly a thousand years—through Ptolemaic, Roman and Eastern Roman dominions—the city served as Egypt’s capital, only relinquishing that status after the Muslim conquest of 641 AD, when a new administrative centre emerged at Fustat. Even before its fall, plunder and attrition had dimmed its former splendour.

The city’s renown in antiquity rested largely on three monuments. First, the famed Pharos, the Lighthouse at its eastern harbour mouth, guided vessels across years now known only from ancient texts. Second, the Great Library, reputed to hold the majority of the Mediterranean’s written corpus, stood as the world’s premier repository of knowledge until fires claimed much of its collection. Third, the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa—then and for centuries after a marvel of subterranean burial rites—survived as testament to syncretic religious practice.

Alexandria’s acropolis, a modest rise by the old Arab cemetery, shelters Pompey’s Pillar, a monolith of red Aswan granite rising thirty metres and weighing nearly four hundred tonnes. Erected in 293 AD under Diocletian’s orders, it bears a misattributed name, for it memorializes an entirely different episode of late Roman assertion. Below, the Serapeum’s remains hint at ceremonies once conducted in honour of Serapis, and may even have doubled as overflow shelves for the vanished Library’s manuscripts.

Not all relics dwell underground. Kom El Deka, an ongoing archaeological endeavour, has laid bare a well-preserved theatre and Roman thermal complex. On Pharos Island’s eastern tip stands the Citadel of Qaitbay, built in 1477 AD by Sultan al-Ashraf Sayf al-Din Qa’it Bay upon the very foundations of the ancient Lighthouse. Its robust walls and bastions, covering some 17 550 square metres, illustrate late medieval military architecture adapted to a maritime setting.

Through antiquity and into late antiquity, Alexandria was a primary seat of Christian learning and leadership. The Patriarchate of Alexandria once held preeminence second only to Rome, with jurisdiction across much of Africa. The Council of Chalcedon in 451 AD cleaved the Church here into Miaphysite and Melkite branches, progenitors of today’s Coptic Orthodox Church and Greek Orthodox Patriarchate respectively. In the nineteenth century, Catholic and Protestant missions drew adherents from both. The modern Coptic Pope maintains a cathedral seat at Saint Mark’s, though daily residence lies in Cairo.

The urban fabric today blends vestiges of this heritage with Islamic edifices. The stateliest mosque on the peninsula is Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi in Bahary; alongside it stand Ali ibn Abi Talib in Somouha, Bilal in Mandara, Hatem in Somouha, and a host of others—Yehia in Zizinia, Sidi Gaber near the waterfront, Sultan Mosque in the western district, and more than a dozen yet, each reflecting waves of patronage and devotion. In political life, Alexandria forms a stronghold for Salafi currents, notably the Al-Nour Party, which secured a commanding share of its parliamentary vote in 2011–12.

By the late eighteenth century, steamships and cotton barges transformed Alexandria into a global entrepôt. Its four ports—the Western Port handling close to sixty per cent of Egypt’s trade, the smaller Dekheila to its west, the yachting Eastern harbour, and Abu Qir on the northeast coast—linked Mediterranean lanes to Red Sea caravans. Cotton exports fueled fortunes; pipelines now bring gas and oil from Suez fields to refineries lining the shore.

Climatically, Alexandria lies at the juncture of steppe and desert: BSh edging toward BWh in Köppen terms. The prevailing north wind off the sea tempers extremes, bringing mild winters, with daytime highs of 12 – 18 °C in January and February and lows around 5 °C, and summers of moderate duration, often humid. Rainfall, though sparse, is greater here than anywhere else in Egypt—shared only with Rafah, Rosetta and a handful of delta towns.

Modern cultural institutions recall the ancient Library’s legacy. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina, opened in 2002 near the site of its predecessor’s fame, houses millions of volumes and hosts international symposia. The Alexandria National Museum, inaugurated on New Year’s Eve 2003 in an Italianate palace, exhibits some 1 800 artifacts narrating local history. The Graeco-Roman Museum, founded in 1892, reopened in October 2023 after extensive refurbishment, while the Cavafy Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Royal Jewelry Museum stand ready to guide visitors through successive chapters of Alexandria’s enduring story.

Table of Contents

🌍 Alexandria, Egypt – Key Facts

CategoryDetails
🏙️ Official NameAlexandria (Al-Iskandariyya, الإسكندرية)
📍 LocationNorthern Egypt, Mediterranean coast 🌊
🏛️ Founded331 BCE by Alexander the Great ⚔️
📏 Area2,679 km² (1,034 sq mi)
🧑🤝🧑 Population~5.4 million (2nd largest in Egypt)
🗣️ LanguagesArabic (official), English & French widely spoken
☀️ ClimateMediterranean – Hot summers, mild winters ☀️🍃
🏰 Top Landmarks• Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Modern Library) 📚
• Citadel of Qaitbay 🏰
• Pompey’s Pillar 🏛️
• Montaza Palace 🌴
⚓ Major PortPort of Alexandria (Egypt’s busiest trade hub) 🚢
💰 EconomyTrade, industry, tourism, petroleum refining 🏭🛢️
🎓 UniversitiesAlexandria University, Arab Academy for Science & Tech 🎓
✈️ Transport• Alexandria Int’l Airport (HBE) ✈️
• Historic tram system 🚋
• Highways to Cairo 🛣️
⏳ Time ZoneEET (UTC+2) / EEST (UTC+3 in summer) ⏱️
📞 Calling Code+20 3

✨ Did You Know?

  • Alexandria was home to the ancient Lighthouse (one of the Seven Wonders) and the Great Library – the center of knowledge in antiquity.

  • Today, it blends Pharaonic, Greco-Roman, and Arab cultures 🏺🌍.

  • The corniche (seaside promenade) is famous for stunning Mediterranean views 🌅.

🌅 ALEXANDRIA – LOST WONDERS & MODERN SECRETS

“Where Ancient Genius Meets Mediterranean Magic”

CategoryMind-Blowing Facts
🏺 ANCIENT SECRETS• The Great Library burned for 3 months (not in one fire!) 📚🔥
• Cleopatra’s Palace lies underwater – divers can see sphinxes! 🌊🐍
🌊 GEOGRAPHY TRIVIA• Built on a tombolo (natural sand bridge) – rare geological formation 🏝️
• Montaza Palace Gardens have trees from every continent 🌳🌎
📜 LITERARY LEGACY• Callimachus (Library director) invented the book catalog system 📇
• Constantine Cavafy wrote famous poems in Alexandria’s cafés ✍️
🍽️ CULINARY QUIRKS• Feteer Meshaltet (Egyptian “pizza”) was a pharaoh’s dessert 🥮
• Coffee is served with mastic gum for extra aroma ☕💎
⚓ NAVAL FIRSTS• Ancient Pharos Lighthouse was the first skyscraper (137m tall!) 🗼
• Modern port handles 80% of Egypt’s imports 📦🚢
👻 URBAN LEGENDS• Alexandria’s Catacombs whisper – locals say they’re haunted 😱
• A hidden Roman amphitheater was found under a soccer field ⚽🎭

Snapshot: Why Alexandria Belongs on Your Egypt Itinerary

Alexandria stands apart from Cairo with its breezy Mediterranean ambiance and layers of history. Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BCE, it became Ptolemaic Egypt’s capital and a beacon of Hellenistic culture. Today visitors marvel at modern tributes like the Bibliotheca Alexandrina and ancient sites such as the Citadel of Qaitbay (on the original Lighthouse site). Unlike the sprawling chaos of Cairo, Alexandria’s compact waterfront city feels more relaxed. The Corniche promenade, lined with cafés, mosques and colonial-era buildings, offers a leisurely counterpoint to the Nile Valley’s monuments. History buffs revel in Greco-Roman ruins and literary heritage (Constantine Cavafy, Lawrence Durrell lived here), while families enjoy seaside parks and seafood lunches on the water. Whether drawn by mythic archaeology (sunken Cleopatra’s palace, the Rosetta stone) or simple sunlit charm, Alexandria adds rich variety to any Egypt trip.

What is Alexandria known for today vs. ancient times?

Ancient Alexandria was famed for the Great Library and Pharos Lighthouse (one of the Seven Wonders), while Hellenistic rulers like Cleopatra VII and the Ptolemies made it a center of learning and culture. Today much of that legacy lies underwater or in scattered ruins, but its modern namesake library – the Bibliotheca Alexandrina – revives that spirit. The city still proudly markets its Greco-Roman attractions (Pompey’s Pillar, Serapeum artifacts) and colonial-era heritage (the elegant Corniche from Abbas Helmi II’s 19th-century renovation). In contrast to antiquity, modern Alexandria is a bustling port and university city, with contemporary art galleries and seafood restaurants. It’s a place where seaside resorts sit alongside ancient catacombs, and where a jazz festival might follow a visit to a 2,000-year-old amphitheater. In essence, today’s Alexandria blends its cosmopolitan past with local Egyptian life on the Mediterranean coast.

Is Alexandria worth visiting from Cairo?

Yes – but preferably as an overnight stay rather than a rushed day-trip. Cairo residents may think of Alexandria as a quick excursion, but the journey alone takes about 2½–3 hours each way (whether by train or car). An afternoon in Alexandria barely scratches the surface, and the city truly comes alive at sunset. Staying late means a walk along the moonlit Corniche or an evening fish dinner by the harbour, experiences you’d miss on a day tour. For photography or atmosphere, the Corniche at night (especially around Stanley Bridge with its illuminated arches) is unforgettable. Many travelers who just hit the top sights by day find themselves wishing they’d spent a night: the leisurely dawn at Montazah Gardens or a morning in the markets adds local flavor. In short, Alexandria can be seen in a long day, but visitors who treat it as a two-day city will appreciate its relaxed pace and hidden corners. (Even Cairo airport is ~2h away, so if you fly in or out via Borg El Arab, consider factoring in travel time.)

What’s New in 2025: Underwater Finds, Library Programs, and Transit Updates

Alexandria’s scene in 2025 mixes ancient treasures with modern infrastructure projects. This year’s big headlines are underwater archaeology and transit upgrades.

Ancient Lighthouse and Sunken Cities. French archaeologists have recently lifted massive blocks of the legendary Pharos Lighthouse from the seabed, working toward a digital reconstruction of the Wonder. These 22 stone lintels and slabs (some weighing 70–80 tons) confirm eyewitness tales of the 14th-century quake that destroyed it. Meanwhile, Egyptian missions continue recovering artifacts from the bay of Canopus (ancient Alexandria’s eastern port). In mid-2025, the Alexandria National Museum opened a “Secrets of the Sunken City” exhibit displaying dozens of finds — including a quartz Sphinx bearing Ramses II’s name and a gilded Roman statue head. These are relics of temples and palaces long since submerged by rising seas. Divers have also reported discoveries off Abu Qir: amphora, statues and temple blocks from the drowned Greco-Roman harbor of Lake Mareotis. Such finds mostly end up in museums, but they do keep Alexandria’s maritime heritage in the news. For tourists, these projects mean a richer set of museum exhibits in the city and new information panels at dive sites. (Keep an eye on the Bibliotheca’s program announcements: for example, they recently hosted temporary archaeology shows like the 2025 Agenda art exhibition alongside these finds.)

Cleopatra’s Underwater Palace. Curious divers should note that “Cleopatra’s Palace” – the low-lying ruins of a small Ptolemaic structure near the lighthouse – remains difficult to visit. Depths are only about 5–8 meters, but the water is notoriously murky. Certified dive operators warn that visibility often drops below one meter (with the best days giving at most ~4–5 meters). Underwater currents stir up sediment, so you should be very experienced to attempt it. On a clear day one might glimpse granite columns, sphinx fragments or basalt plaques embedded in the sand, but don’t expect intact statues. In short, yes you can dive these ruins – but only as a specialized trip (and with realistic expectations).

Bibliotheca Alexandrina Updates. The modern library-brick shell on the Corniche remains the focal point of Alexandria’s cultural life. Its management is keeping the place lively with rotating exhibitions and frequent guided tours. For example, the annual “Agenda” art show opened early 2025, showcasing contemporary Egyptian artists. The library’s ticket now includes daily tours: English-language tours generally run mid-morning and early afternoon (around 10:45, 11:15, 12:45, etc.), with separate Arabic and French tours on similar schedules. (They’re included with the main entry fee.) These tours are a handy way to see the building’s vast manuscript room and highlights like the Antiquities Museum and Planetarium without hunting for information. The planetarium’s schedule and science-center shows should be checked on site or online – it’s a fun add-on for families. If you visit the library, look for any signs of new digital galleries or temporary exhibits, since 2024–25 has seen an emphasis on interactive history programs (reflecting Alexandria’s role as a UNESCO City of Media Arts).

Transit and the Metro. A major change this year is that Alexandria’s vintage tram system is being overhauled for the first time in decades. Egypt’s government has broken ground on upgrades: new tramlines and vehicles are replacing older tracks on key routes. The projected effect is to cut the old tram run from 60 minutes to about 35. During 2025 you may still see classic green trams on the Corniche, but be aware there can be intermittent service or detours as construction proceeds. Long-term visitors should note the new Alexandria Metro project, intended to launch by 2026. Phase 1 will run ~21 km from Misr station (downtown) to Abu Qir (eastern suburbs). When complete, trains will whiz between Alexandria and Cairo’s rail hubs (Misr Station) and link with the Raml Tram, halving current travel times. For now, construction is mostly out of sight, but travelers might spot occasional metrorail columns or work sites inland. In 2025, you still get around Alexandria by foot, taxi or tram, but can anticipate a slick new metro system (and possibly station closures on old lines) in the next couple of years.

Best Time to Visit Alexandria (Weather, Crowds, Sea Conditions)

Alexandria’s climate is Mediterranean – milder than Egypt’s interior but still governed by seasons.

Spring (Mar–May) is generally the finest weather. Daytime highs are warm (mid-to-high 20s °C, sometimes reaching 30), with low rainfall. This period is pleasantly humid with brisk sea breezes. It’s ideal for sightseeing, and major attractions are open (there are no significant Ramadan or holiday closures to worry about).

Summer (Jun–Aug) in Alexandria is warm but bearable, especially near the water. The air temperature can reach 30–32 °C on sunny afternoons, but coastal breezes often make it feel cooler than Cairo. Crucially, rainfall is virtually nil – summer in Alexandria is bone-dry. This means you can swim and enjoy beaches (and water sports) freely. On the downside, July–August is school holiday season in Egypt, so locals crowd the city’s beaches and corniche cafés. Hotel rates may climb during August. If you plan heavy sightseeing, schedule outdoor walking for mornings or late afternoons to avoid peak heat (though truly sweltering days are rare by the sea).

Autumn (Sep–Nov) is often a very nice shoulder season. Late September and October see temperatures similar to spring – warm by day (25–30 °C) and cooling nicely by night. This season also gets little rain and is considered “the best time” by many (tour operators note it offers a mix of warmth and wind-friendly conditions). October especially can be a sweet spot: the Mediterranean sun is still strong, but the bulk of summer crowds have left. By November, occasional showers start – especially by late month – but brief rains are still uncommon (most rain falls Jan–Feb).

Winter (Dec–Feb) brings cool, crisp weather. Daytime highs hover around 18–22 °C, and evenings can drop into the low teens. This is Alexandria’s second busiest season (tourism peaks again in Dec–Jan) because many Egyptians holiday here to escape colder inland. However, winter is also when the first serious rains arrive; January sees most of Alexandria’s annual precipitation. Expect more cloud cover and the chance of stormy days (though still mild compared to many countries). Beach activities wind down by mid-November, and the sea gets choppier. A cold wave in Dec–Jan could send waves crashing over the Corniche boardwalk. If traveling in winter, pack a light jacket and umbrella. Some travelers like winter’s trade-off: quiet grand museum visits and fresh seafood at rainy-day markets.

In sum: spring and fall are most traveler-friendly (warm days, few interruptions). Summer is good for swimming and water fun (if you don’t mind crowds). Winter has atmospheric skies and the annual festival season (Cine Alexandria, Christmas and Easter events) but some weather risk. Regardless, Alexandria’s weather is quite moderate: even in winter you can often stroll coastal paths that would be too cold in New York or London.

How Many Days Do You Need? (1-Day, 2-Day, 3-Day Plans)

How much Alexandria time depends on your pace. Here are rough guidelines:

  • Is Alexandria a day trip or an overnight? Technically a visitor can do a whirlwind in one long day, but it will be tiring. If you only have a day, plan to hit one side of the city in the morning and one in the afternoon, and then rush back. Key attractions can be seen by 8–7 (leaving Cairo at 7am, back by 11pm), but you’ll miss evening life. Most travelers find an overnight much more relaxing.
  • One Perfect Day (itinerary):
    Morning: Start at the Bibliotheca Alexandrina as soon as it opens. The grand reading-room and exhibitions are fascinating; guided tours depart frequently and help cover the highlights (plan 2–3 hours total, including the Antiquities museum on the ground floor). From there, take a short taxi or walk to Pompey’s Pillar and the nearby Serapeum remains – the 3rd-century pagan temple site with the massive column. Spend about 30–45 minutes there. Then continue to the Kom el-Shoqafa Catacombs (just a couple of blocks away) – allow ~1 hour to explore these subterranean tombs and chambers, including the rotunda.
    Lunch: Walk to the fish market district near the Abu Qir end of the Corniche or to Attarine souk for a fresh seafood lunch (try grilled mullet or sayadeya fish rice with a view of the harbor).
    Afternoon: Head to Citadel Qaitbay on the far western tip of the city; it’s a 15–20 minute drive, or a 10 km tram ride along the corniche. Explore the 15th-century fortress (1–2 hours) and climb its towers for panoramic coastal views. Then stroll east along the Corniche to Stanley Bridge and Mangaf Park (photograph the Moorish bridge, enjoy the Gulf of Suez breeze). If time permits, swing by the Alexandria National Museum to see its top artifacts (Raoucha, Sunken Cities finds) – this can be 45 min. Finish with sunset drinks on the corniche.
  • Two-Day Plan: Day 1 as above. Day 2: Dedicate time to the eastern side and neighborhoods. In the morning, visit Kom el-Dikka, Alexandria’s Roman-era villa and small theatre (and its mosaics, including the famed “Villa of the Birds”). Cross over to the Royal Jewelry Museum (check opening; it reopened recently) to see dynastic crown jewels (30–45 min). Then take a tram or cab out to Montazah Palace Gardens east of the city. Enjoy the opulent palace exteriors and vast seaside parks; stop for a seafood lunch at El-Montazah or Abu Haif. In the afternoon, relax on Montazah’s beach or visit the small Montazah Aquarium (good for kids). If energy permits, end the day in downtown’s Mansheya district – browse the old Souq el-Attarine (for antiques, papyrus art, gold, spices) and savor Egyptian street foods (koshary, ta’ameya, fresh juice).
  • Three-Day Plan: With three days you can fully immerse. Days 1–2 as above, plus Day 3 for either extra sightseeing or a day trip. For more local culture, spend the morning visiting the Cavafy Museum (house of the poet C.P. Cavafy, though check its opening status). Then wander through local markets or Mohammed Mahmoud Museum. After lunch, consider the Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque (massive mosque with filigree mashrabiya; drop to see interior in late afternoon). On Day 3 alternative, take a half-day trip: Rosetta (Rashid) is ~65 km NW (visit its Ottoman mansions and see where the Rosetta Stone was found); or El-Alamein (110 km west: WWII cemeteries and museum). Both are doable from Alexandria with a hired car or tour. Finally, use remaining hours on the Corniche – maybe a last walk on Stanley Bridge at night or a coffee at Mansheya Square (the historic city center). Three days mean you can explore at leisure and even be spontaneous.

Getting There from Cairo (and Beyond)

Train vs Bus vs Car: The distance Cairo–Alexandria is just over 200 km. A Talgo train (Egypt’s modern service) covers it in about 2½ hours, while slower conventional trains may take 3–4 hours depending on stops. Trains depart multiple times a day from Cairo’s Ramses (Misr) Station. First-class Talgo seats are comfortable, with optional meal service (cost ~US $30; second class about $25).

A private car or Uber takes roughly the same time or less (around 2½–3h), using the desert highway. In practice, Uber from door-to-door can match train cost for two people and saves switching to/from stations. It also offers flexibility – though Cairo traffic can delay you. A bus is the cheapest (Go Bus and others run luxury coaches for ~3–4h), but buses drop you at the distant Alex bus terminal (north of city). A bus is fine for budget travelers with only cabin bags; if convenience matters, rail or car is better.

Which station in Alexandria? Important tip: Cairo trains stop first at Alexandria’s Sidi Gaber Station (a modern station north of downtown) before reaching Alexandria (Mahatet Misr) at the city center. Many Egyptians leave at Sidi Gaber, so the train often appears empty and you might think it’s the final stop – it’s not. Tourists usually want to stay on board to reach Mahatet Misr, which is literally the oldest station in Africa and is closest to the historic center. So when you see passengers bustling at Sidi Gaber, hold on until the train pulls into Misr Station (often called Alexandria Main). That puts you just a short taxi or tram ride from the Corniche and Old Town.

Booking Tickets: Tickets (especially first-class) can sell out on weekends. Egyptians can buy online or at station. Foreigners generally buy in person at Ramses Station or at a downtown Alexandria ticket office in English (credit cards accepted but bring cash in case). Reservations open about 30 days ahead. Car rental is also an option (road conditions are good, though watch for occasional police checkpoints). Note: Never fly domestic between Cairo and Alexandria – the city’s airport (Borg El Arab) is far from downtown (over an hour’s drive), so air travel is neither time- nor cost-effective.

Getting Around Alexandria (Taxi, Uber, Tram, Walking)

Alexandria is big, but many sights cluster along a few corridors:

  • Uber and Taxis: Uber, Bolt and local “careem” services operate reliably here. An Uber from the city center to Montazah will be surprisingly cheap (often <100 EGP) and vans are available for groups. Metered taxis exist but drivers usually won’t use the meter unless firmed; always ask a fixed price or insist on the meter (best to know ~1 km ≈ 3–5 EGP as a guide). Uber/Bolt cures most of that headache. Taxis are plentiful though: hail one or find them at taxi stands near major hotels.
  • Tram: Alexandria’s historic trams (Europe’s oldest outside Western Europe) still run along the Corniche and Raml lines. They are very slow (stop-and-go) but are fun for short hops. A Corniche tram ride is picturesque (especially from Sidi Gaber eastward) and costs only a few Egyptian pounds by cards you buy at kiosks. In practice, use trams if you have lots of time or want the experience; otherwise prefer Ubers for speed. In 2025 the tram system is under renovation, so schedules may be irregular and delays possible. Still, a tram ride between Stanley Bridge and Roshdy Mall (San Stefano) is one of Alexandria’s unique charms.
  • Walking the Corniche: Many attractions are strung out along the waterfront (library, Ottoman-era piazzas, Qaitbay, Montazah). Walking from Qaitbay westward to Stanley Bridge is about 5 km; walking it in full sun takes over an hour but passes photo-stops (minarets, old palaces, parks). Sidewalks can be narrow and uneven, so wear comfortable shoes. The central Corniche (Midan Tahrir through Anfoushi) is relatively flat; further east the Montazah area has more gentle slopes. After sunset, well-lit stretches (Stanley area, Mansheya) are safe for strolling, but avoid dark alleys.
  • Other: Short distance rides by local buses or minivans exist but are confusing for visitors. Most sights are best reached by foot or app-based car. Ferries/Alexandria metro not available (yet).

Top 12 Must-See Sights (Micro-Guides)

Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Bibliotheca)

The stunning modern library on the Corniche is a must-start point. Its slanted granite-brick façade evokes the scroll of knowledge. Inside, allow at least 2–3 hours. Visit the Great Hall (reading room) and the conservation lab on the ground floor, plus the small antiquities and manuscript museums. Free Wi-Fi is available if you want a recharge. Tickets (about 150 EGP for foreigners) include guided tours. English tours run roughly every hour in the morning and early afternoon; they cover the architecture, the Culturama audiovisual hall and highlight pieces. If the library seems too large, at least check the special exhibits (rare-book displays or temporary art shows are common). Crowds are moderate. Note dress code: shoulders/knees covered inside; there’s a scarf for women at the entrance if needed.

Citadel of Qaitbey

A medieval fortress anchoring the west Corniche. Built on the ruins of the ancient Lighthouse in 1477–79, its angled bastions command the harbor. Climb the ramparts for sweeping views of the Mediterranean and Alexandria’s skyline. The citadel interior is small – just a few chambers with old cannon and Ottoman tiles – so 30–45 minutes is enough. Early morning or late afternoon gives the best light on the white limestone walls. Entry fee is modest (around 60 EGP for locals, 150 EGP for foreigners). Tours are unguided, but photo ops abound. The fort is also a popular spot for Egyptian TV dramas. In front of the fort is the Alexandria National Museum (on kmar qaitbey’s side of the harbor), which is a fine backup if you want to compare underwater finds and Pharaonic artifacts – plan an extra hour if you include it.

Catacombs of Kom el‑Shoqafa

These underground burial chambers (circa 2nd–3rd century CE) are Alexandria’s top archaeological tomb site. Descend 30 m via a spiral marble stairwell to reach a circular rotunda decorated with Egyptian motifs on a Corinthian colonnade. Exploring here takes about an hour (no photography inside). Look for the famous “Wheel of Life” column capital and life-sized statues of the family that built it. The cool air and low light inside provides relief on a hot day. Note: Men and women should cover knees/shoulders in this former sacred site. The entrance faces a small park in the Anfoushi district. Plan for around 60 EGP entry (about $3).

Pompey’s Pillar and Serapeum

Just up the hill from the catacombs lie the grand Pompey’s Pillar (actually a 26 m pink granite column from the late Roman Serapeum of Alexandria). Originally there were two columns; one fell in an 18th-century earthquake. The remaining pillar stands in a peaceful grassy enclosure. Nearby is a large reused fallen granite block (the “block of Roman lions”) and remnants of Serapis temple walls. This monument is quick to see – about 30 minutes – but it’s an evocative spot under palm trees. In the same area is a modern Coptic church (St. George) which you can spot by its dome and neon cross; it celebrates local Christian heritage. This whole hill has no cover, so bring a hat. Entry: roughly 60 EGP for the Pillar complex (often sold with the catacombs ticket).

Kom el‑Dikka

A short taxi from downtown, this small archaeological park contains a recently unearthed Roman Amphitheatre (the only one in Egypt, seating ~7,000). It was unearthed in the 1960s and a roof added to protect the mosaics. You see a sunken oval arena with brick steps. The highlight is the adjacent octagonal Villa of the Birds – check the rooftop mosaic floors decorated with colorful parrots and ducks. Museum cases show local daily life finds. Allow about an hour. A cupola lift brings you down to the theatre floor if needed (stairs otherwise). Entry ~60 EGP. Nearby is the 13th-century Anfushi Mosque (fatimid-era, modest but atmospheric interior mosaics). Kom el-Dikka’s modern glass-and-concrete visitor center has a small cafe upstairs – a nice shaded spot for mint tea between sessions.

Alexandria National Museum

In a late-19th-century Italian palace (now yellow). The main museum has gallery rooms covering prehistory through Greco-Roman Egypt to Islam. Highlights include Fayum portraits, the Flinders Petrie collection, and artifacts from the Sunken Cities (from nearby Thonis-Heracleion and Canopus). You’ll also find works recovered from Abu Qir’s underwater excavations. Signs in Arabic/English explain the finds. Plan 1–2 hours here, pacing from the archaic statuary upstairs to the final room of dynastic mummies. Entry ~80 EGP. Note: The museum is closed on Fridays (general Friday closure), so visit another day if that overlaps. It’s a good morning outing in winter when outdoor heat isn’t a factor.

Montazah Palace & Gardens

Alexandria’s palace park, once the summer resort of Khedive Abbas Hilmi II. The walkways wind under palm trees between villas with green domes and a private beach. The gardens are open daily to strollers (a flat fee entry). Key sights: the panoramic harbor view from the Pavilion Gardens, and the Al Montazah Palace itself (the exterior is classic Moorish revival – photo-worthy). The sandy coastline beyond includes a seaside Montazah Aquarium and a small zoo. For visitors, Montazah Beach (public) lies in front of the palace, and beyond it is the grand Al-Mandara Beach (pay-for beach clubs). On holidays or weekends, the parks fill with picnicking families under the eucalyptus. Spend 2–3 hours here, mixing walking, gardening, and a possible swim. By late afternoon, the golden light through palace arches is quite beautiful.

Stanley Bridge & Corniche Viewpoints

A modern landmark and favorite Alexandria photo-spot. Completed in 2001, Stanley Bridge arches over Stanley Bay with Moorish-style towers and nightly illuminations. Walk or drive up to the bridge’s center island (in front of Samouha district) around sunset for sweeping city-and-sea vistas. The bridge’s 6 lanes and pedestrian walkways offer great angle shots of fishing boats on turquoise waters. The adjacent Stanley Gardens (a flower park by Montazah) is a nice promenade. From here the Corniche stretches both east and west. An evening stroll on the Corniche from Stanley Bridge toward Qaitbay passes historical mosques (like El-Mursi, Al-Sarai) and old seaside cafés. It’s one of the most picturesque stretches in Alexandria, especially as the sun dips below the western mosque domes.

Abu Abbas al‑Mursi Mosque

A striking mosque of swirling white marble and copper-colored ornament. Built in the early 20th century in memory of the Sufi saint Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi, it is perhaps Alexandria’s most famous modern religious building. The main prayer hall’s dome (finished in 1944) is a marvelous geometric wooden lattice. Visitors should enter respectfully: women cover heads, and remove shoes (loaner headscarves are usually available). Non-Muslims are allowed to walk around most areas outside the central prayer room. If possible, plan your visit outside of Friday prayers (noon) to appreciate the interior’s intricate columns and lanterns. The mosque opens after prayer calls. Its courtyard and minaret are photogenic. Nearby is the adjoining Abu Abbas Museum (a small museum of relics and local history, often open at limited hours or by appointment) which you may peek into if open.

Royal Jewelry Museum

In 2020 the former Mohamed Ali palace in Zizinia reopened as the Royal Jewelry Museum. It displays the regalia and personal jewelry of Egypt’s royal family (Mohammed Ali to Farouk) in room settings with period furniture. Crowns, tiaras, elaborate carriages and ivory throne chairs line the galleries. The collection is dazzling. Entry is higher (~80–100 EGP). Before visiting, check if it’s open; the museum has intermittent closures (staff shortages) and may close on short notice. If you find it closed, a walk along Zizinia’s palm-lined boulevards is still pleasant; the old palaces in this suburb (e.g. Ras el-Tin’s palace gates) are impressive from the outside. Otherwise, the jewelry museum is worth an hour of tour time, especially for royal history buffs.

Cavafy Museum

Constantine Cavafy (1863–1933) was Alexandria’s cosmopolitan poet and an icon of modern Greek literature. His last residence is preserved as a small museum in downtown Anfoushi, showing photos and first editions of his poems. It’s a quiet house with two floors of exhibits. Admission is minimal (often a voluntary donation). Be warned: Cavafy’s house used to have highly irregular hours (officially Wed-Fri afternoons, but often closed unexpectedly). In late 2024 it reportedly reopened with set hours (check ahead on official channels). If it’s closed, an alternative is to visit Hamza Bey Mosque (with its lovely Moorish interior) and then relax at the nearby Fishawi’s Café on the Corniche – one of Cavafy’s old haunts. A literary walking tour might take you past Cavafy’s statue (at Mansheya Square) and Lawrence Durrell’s Oliver’s Bookshop in the old city (English Darsena Street).

Ras el‑Tin Palace (exterior)

On the very western end of the Corniche, near where the desert highway begins, lies the Presidential Ras el-Tin Palace – still a seat of state. Tourists cannot enter, but a quick stop for exterior photos is worthwhile. The picturesque seafront wall (overlooking the old Ottoman citadel) and the palace’s crenellated turrets look very imposing at high tide. Nearby is the Avicenna Bridge (small Roman aqueduct) and the city’s Fishery Harbor – this is a good area for low-key waterfront photography of boats and palms. In fact, Ras el-Tin’s fish restaurants and markets (east of the palace, near Charles de Gaulle Square) make a great final dinner setting: fresh grilled sea bream at an outdoor table with views of moonlit Mina Port.

Dive the Underwater Ruins (Cleopatra’s “Palace”)

Sites, conditions, visibility, and who should consider it. Scuba diving off Alexandria is a niche but fascinating activity for trained divers. The main draw is the elusive Cleopatra’s Palace site, located near the old lighthouse ruins just offshore. In reality this was a Phoenician-built sea temple, later modified by Ptolemy II. Underwater you may find statues (sphinx fragments), carved pillars, granite blocks and temple remnants. However, take note: visibility is generally very poor. Local dive guides report that clarity is usually less than one meter, even on “good” days might only reach 4–5 m. Algae blooms, plankton and sand stirred by waves make the waters murky. Currents can be strong, and boat launches depend on calm seas.

Only advanced divers with dry suits (winter water is ~15–20°C) should attempt this. Use experienced operators who know the exact GPS coordinates (sites are often unmarked). Don’t expect ancient amphora in perfect condition – most small artifacts have been recovered by museums. Instead, divers often describe seeing “big blocks and architectural stuff”: toppled columns, basalt door frames and the statue of a headless sphinx we mentioned earlier. If you are curious about underwater archaeology without diving, consider snorkeling near Qaitbay or visiting the underwater section at the Alexandria National Museum (lately some finds from these dives are exhibited).

Certification, safety, and realistic expectations. Ensure you have a valid PADI or CMAS advanced certification (Night or Wreck specialties help). Dive operators in Alexandria usually require at least Advanced Open Water (due to depth and conditions). Always dive with a group and professional guide. Triple-check equipment: some older clubs have dated gear. The depth at Cleopatra’s Palace is modest (5–8 m), but deeper sites (like ancient Port of Kachlaf) go to 15–20 m. Temper your expectations – this is archaeological sightseeing, not a tropical reef. If you do dive it, you’ll join a small community of enthusiasts and contribute to raising awareness of Alexandria’s submerged heritage.

Best Areas to Stay (By Style and Budget)

Alexandria’s neighborhoods each have a distinct feel:

  • Downtown/Corniche (City Center): This is the tourist hub, centered around Mansheya and Midan Saad Zaghloul. Stay here for convenience and atmosphere. Historic hotels like the Cecil, Casa d’Or, or Steigenberger Cecil (in a restored palazzo) put you near souks, cafes and major sites within walking distance. The Corniche Road (Meydān Tahrīr area) also has many mid-range hotels with sea views. For budget travelers, look for guesthouses in the Anfoushi quarter: simple rooms above bakeries or tailors, an authentic local vibe. Downside is that some streets can be busy and noisy, but you can walk almost everywhere on foot.
  • Montazah/Stanley (East): If you prefer resort tranquility or go with family, the Montazah area is ideal. Large beachfront hotels and villas line the park perimeter here (Sheraton Montazah, Commodore Select, or smaller B&Bs). Beaches at Montazah and Stanley are right outside your door. It’s quieter at night than downtown but farther from central attractions (budget more time/taxi to get around). Good for sunrises and seaside relaxation.
  • Sidi Gaber/San Stefano (West): This area is upscale and modern. The San Stefano Grand Plaza development has a mall, cinema and the Four Seasons Hotel. Luxury travelers like the Four Seasons or Hilton. It’s near the western metro highway exit to Cairo and to San Stefano Mall (Egypt’s only branch of Zara, etc.), plus the Alexandria Business District. Not many ancient sites here, but very comfortable lodging. Also handy for Cairo-bound trains (since Sidi Gaber station is nearby).
  • What’s best for first-timers? If this is your first visit, the Corniche/Mansheya cluster is most convenient: central location, atmosphere, many tour/guide options. The Marriott, Hilton, or Cecil are classic Alexandria experiences. Those who want a livelier night scene may prefer Downtown, whereas families would pick Montazah’s beaches.

Where (and What) to Eat: Seafood, Street Staples, and Coffeehouses

Alexandria’s cuisine is a seafood-lover’s delight, with Egyptian classics on every corner:

  • Seafood: The city’s long coastline means fish is king. Local specialties include sayadiya (fish cooked with spiced rice), mullet (bouri) grilled or fried, and shrimp or calamari fried taratoor style. For a real treat, dine at harbor-front restaurants in Mismarri or Fish Market area: dozens of seaside cafés where you pick fresh catch from tanks and they cook it to order. Well-known places include Balbaa Family Fish Restaurant (several branches) or the tent at Fishawi Restaurant in Mansheya. A fish lunch here with salad and rice is easily under US$10 per person (plus tea).
  • Street-food staples: Alexandria’s downtown bazaars and Corniche teahouses serve up Cairo classics: koshary (lentils, macaroni, rice, and sauces) and ful medames/ta‘ameya (fava bean stew and Egyptian falafel) for a cheap filling meal. Near train stations or markets look for hawker carts selling hawawshi (Egyptian meat-stuffed pita). For sweet tooth: try basbousa (semolina cake) or konafa at little patisseries. A visit to Mohamed Ahmed restaurant (Anfoushi) for beans and falafel is legendary among locals – it’s an early breakfast spot (open ~7am-11am).
  • Coffee & tea culture: Alexandrians love tea and Turkish coffee. Many families gather in old-style cafés along the Corniche. Try a mint tea or Turkish coffee at Fishawi Café (not to be confused with the restaurant) near Qaitbay, where fish dealers and fishermen chat over small tables. For dessert, sample laid dagga (deep-fried semolina balls dipped in syrup) or om Ali (Egyptian bread pudding). On sunny afternoons, ice cream is popular – look for shops selling mango or hibiscus flavors (hibiscus juice is a local favorite).
  • Where do locals eat? Locals flock to the port area at lunch, or to neighborhoods like Agami (west) for fine fish restaurants. In winter, smoking shisha (hookah) by the water and sipping tea is typical. In short, eat whatever is fresh that day: grilled fish by the water, and don’t skip the midmornin’ koshary.

Beaches and Swimming: What to Expect

Alexandria’s beaches are a mixed bag:

  • Public vs Private: Much of Alexandria’s coastline is public or club-run. Cleopatra Beach (in Sidi Gaber near Four Seasons) and Miami/Stanley Beach (by Stanley Bridge) are free to the public, though they get busy on weekends. These have free access concrete breakwaters and often offer lounge chairs for rental. The city has improved beach cleaning in recent years, but expect some seaweed or litter in public areas. The swankier private beaches (Al-Maamoura beach run by the Hotel Helnan or by Four Seasons, or at Montazah Beach Club) charge a day-entry fee (~250-500 EGP) and provide umbrellas, changing rooms and vendors. Families often head to Al-Maamoura (clean, shallow bay, entry needed) or to the sandy stretch outside Montazah Park (actually free as part of park).
  • Cleanest options: Travelers often praise Cleopatra Beach and Al-Maamoura as the best kept and safest for kids. Miami Beach (not the Florida one) in Abou Shahr has smooth sand and clear water, and it’s right by a popular amusement park (it can be rowdy on holidays). Montazah’s tree-shaded bay feels idyllic. By contrast, Abu Haif and inlets around Ras el-Tin can be rocky. None of Alexandria’s beaches are on par with Red Sea clarity; think of them as urban seaside spots.
  • Swimming: Yes, you can swim – the water is Mediterranean-warm from June through September (averaging around 23–28°C by summer). Sea conditions are usually calm inside the breakwaters, but beware of occasional strong currents along the open coast (especially near Montazah and Stanley) when storms pick up. Lifeguards are not guaranteed at all beaches; families should watch children carefully. Women wear swimsuits on beaches without controversy, but once you leave the sand you should cover up. Topless sunbathing is never acceptable. At crowded public beaches, modest bikinis and one-pieces are common. Toilet/shower facilities vary by beach (private clubs have better amenities).
  • Etiquette: Egyptian beaches are casual but not nude. Drink responsibly (alcohol is allowed on private/beach club areas but banned on public coast). It’s polite to avoid loud music. Have flip-flops (sand can get hot), and know that umbrellas or sunbeds may cost a few pounds. If in doubt, stroll toward hotel beaches where entry is free after certain hours.

Shopping & Markets

Alexandria’s souks are lively and haggling-friendly:

  • Where to shop: The main shopping district is around Mansheya and Attarine (near Khan el-Khayraya, the Goldsmith’s Market). Here you’ll find everything from spices, textiles and perfumes to papyrus art and antiques. Souk el-Attarine (Attarine Market) specializes in antiques, Oud perfume, Alabaster crafts and second-hand jewelry – often priced high, so bargain hard or just browse. Papyrus prints (of the Alexandria map, pharaohs or hieroglyphs) make a fun souvenir if factory-printed (beware overpriced stalls). Gold jewelry shops (with hallmark stamps) line the streets too. Other buys: a traditional galabeya (cotton dress), Egyptian cotton shirts, or block-printed textiles. Moon-stone or amber beads and leather goods (shoes, bags) can also be found.
  • What not to buy: Steer clear of cheap “as seen on cruise brochures” trinkets – plastic pyramids or gaudy plastic camel figurines are common tourist junk. Also avoid overpriced leather (buy in Cairo or Aswan instead) or mass-produced modern souvenirs (like sachets of “alexandria perfume” that contain no special scent). Even magic-eye poster prints are not unique to Alexandria.
  • Bargaining: Haggling is expected almost everywhere outside fixed-price shops. Vendors might start quoting 3–4 times the price they expect; start at ~25% of their initial offer and settle around 50–60%. Bargain patiently and politely (smile, but hold firm). If a vendor senses annoyance, they’ll call a higher price. Best to say you’ll return later, which often leads them to accept your offer rather than lose a sale. Cash is king – always carry small bills and change. In gold shops prices are fixed by weight (local rate) but you can haggle on workmanship or at least compare 2–3 shops.
  • Payment: Most markets are cash-only. There are ATMs in Mansheya and along the corniche, but not inside the narrow souk lanes. Exchange some USD or EUR at a bank (in the Stanley or Rushdi area) or use a currency exchange office near Midan Saad Zaghloul; rates are posted but often better at smaller bureaux than at banks or hotels. Large mall stores (Cleopatra Mall in San Stefano, City Center Mall) do take credit cards, but the local souks do not.

Day Trips You Should Consider

If you have extra time beyond Alexandria, a few nearby sites are worthwhile:

  • Rosetta (Rashid): About 65 km west along the coast (a 1–1.5h drive). Famous as the discovery site of the Rosetta Stone (1799). Visitors see Ottoman-era merchant mansions, a small fort and the place where the Nile meets the sea. Don’t miss the Rashid Museum (housed in the Stone’s discovery fort) and local architecture (windy narrow lanes of colorful boat-shaped houses). There is a National Rosetta Museum opened in 2019 showcasing replicas. Rosetta makes a gentle day-trip (or overnight B&B in a restored khan) for Egyptology enthusiasts or those interested in 19th-century history.
  • El-Alamein: A 2-hour drive west (about 110 km). Site of pivotal WWII battles. Here you can visit the British Commonwealth and German cemeteries (moving, sea-overlooked memorial parks) and the El Alamein War Museum (1942 exhibits of tanks, guns, uniforms). Allow half a day. Tours often run from Cairo but starting from Alexandria cuts off part of the journey. The town itself is modest, but the cemeteries and stories of the Desert War are profound. Aim for an exit through the olive groves with the Mediterranean behind the tombstones.
  • Wadi El Natrun: Roughly 90 km south (1.5h) by desert road. An oasis valley famed for its four Coptic monasteries (dating to the 4th century). Dakrur (Deir Anba Maqar) and Baramus monasteries are two open to visitors. Each has simple churches with ancient icons and cells of hermit monks. Dress modestly; women should cover heads (scarves provided) and shoulders, men cover knees. Monasteries close during main meal/prayer times (roughly noon). It’s a tranquil trip suitable for half to full day. Especially for religious history buffs, it offers a look at Egypt’s oldest Christian institutions (these monasteries sheltered John the Dwarf and other Church Fathers).
  • Aboukir: The fishing village and bay east of Alexandria, 20–30 min drive from city. Known for the 1798 naval battle (Napoleon vs. Nelson). Today it’s a seafooders’ haven: small huts and restaurants line the shore where fresh clams and shrimp are grilled on coals by villagers. The Temple of the Sun ruins (15th-century BC) and Tomb of Cyrus (Persian era) are off the beaten path slightly inland. If you dive, boats from Abu Qir port go to the submerged ruins of Heracleion-Canopus and Cleopatra’s palace. If you have only a quick slot, stop at Mandara Café for clams and a view of the sun setting behind Montazah. Aboukir’s pace is local – a few hours here feels like leaving Egypt time.

Culture & Etiquette: Dress, Friday Hours, Mosque Visits

Alexandria’s culture mirrors Egypt’s blend of Middle Eastern, European and North African influences. Some pointers:

  • Dress: Egypt is conservative. In Alexandria’s tourist and public areas, casual modesty is normal. Women are not required to cover hair in the streets, but should have shoulders and knees covered when entering religious sites. Many women wear a shawl out of respect. Men usually wear long pants (shorts are seen only at beaches or informal areas; better to have at least trousers in town). In summer on the beach or in nightlife spots, bikinis and shorts are fine, but never beachwear off the sand. Carry a scarf or shawl to drape when visiting places like mosques or Coptic churches.
  • Friday and prayer time: Friday midday is lunchtime for Muslims. Around 12–2pm, many shops, banks and non-franchise restaurants close for the main prayer (Jumu’ah). Mosques are packed then. Plan museum visits accordingly: for example, the National Museum of Alexandria closes Friday before noon and reopens late afternoon (check updated hours on notices). The Cavafy Museum and other small sites are often closed on Fridays altogether. If a synagogue or museum says “closed Friday,” the reason is this prayer schedule. Notably, Alexandria’s Roman Catholic Church of St Catherine (open 10–5 on Sunday) has Mass at 10am and 7pm, but otherwise stays open.
  • Photography etiquette: Egypt has no strict bans on photos but courtesy goes far. Always ask permission before taking pictures of people, especially women. Mosque interiors (Muslim or non-Muslim) may restrict photography – many forbid photography during prayer times. In Old Cairo (not Alexandria, but in any city), avoiding photos of police or military is prudent. Generally, historic sites are fine to photograph, but if someone offers to take your picture (a friendly gesture), be cautious of implied tip.
  • Other: Public affection is frowned upon (keep displays to minimal hand-holding, no kissing). Tipping (“baksheesh”) is customary: e.g., 5–10 EGP for porters, 10–15% at restaurants (if service isn’t included), small coins to café servers. Do not scold beggars or street kids; it’s normal for them to say “Baksheesh” or perform. A polite smile and refusal works. Overall, politeness and a few local Arabic greetings (“Sabah el-kheir” for good morning, “Shukran” for thanks) will earn goodwill.

Safety, Scams & Common Mistakes

Alexandria is generally safe but common-sense precautions apply:

  • Safety: The city center and tourist areas are comparable to any large city. Violent crime against foreigners is rare. Petty theft can happen in crowds or on transit – keep valuables zipped and be cautious on packed trams or markets. Use hotel safes for passports and excess cash. The US State Dept currently advises “Reconsider travel” for Egypt as a whole, noting terrorism risks nationally. However, Alexandria’s advisory is less severe than North Sinai or Sinai resorts; violent incidents in Alexandria are extremely rare. Stay aware at night: main streets are lit but some side alleys are dark. Avoid sketchy characters offering unsolicited help.
  • Scams: Beware classic Cairo/Alexandria hustles: street vendors overcharging (test prices first), “official-looking” folks offering guided tours on the spot (always book in offices or known shops), and fake gems or gold deals. A common scam: taxi drivers quoting high flat rates for what should be metered rides (firmly insist on meter or walk away). Another: “yellow taxi company” claims a meter will malfunction – best switch to Uber. Don’t open unsolicited “gifts” (even flowers) from strangers – these often lead to extortion demands. If a locals points something out (e.g. “your scarf is on fire”), stay skeptical of the follow-up “offer to help.”
  • Tipping vs. Baksheesh: Egyptians frequently say “baksheesh” meaning tip or small bribe. It’s normal to give baksheesh for minor services (hotel bellboy, bathroom attendant, water-bottle carriers). Carry 1-5 EGP notes for such cases. Always clarify fees in advance for guides or car hires (to avoid being asked for baksheesh later). A 10–15% tip on a restaurant bill is customary. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up; for transfers, 10% of fare is polite.
  • Coastal/Weather hazards: In winter especially, powerful sea swells can inundate the Corniche promenade (e.g. a storm sent meters-high waves into cafes in 2015). Heed posted storm warnings (the new port authorities sometimes close Stanley Bridge access on stormy days). Roads by the waterfront can flood in heavy rain. Keep an eye on weather forecasts in winter: if a Red Flag is up (rare, but check local news), avoid swimming or standing near the sea wall. Road drivers should be aware of occasional coastal fog (especially dawn and dusk) which can limit visibility.

Costs & Money: What Things Really Cost in 2025

Alexandria is very affordable by Western standards. For budgeting:

  • Attractions: Most entry fees are quite low (in Egyptian pounds, 1 USD ≈ 30 EGP in 2025). Examples: Citadel of Qaitbay ~150 EGP (foreigners), Kom el-Dikka ~50 EGP, national museums ~80–180 EGP. Even the most expensive things (Library at 150 EGP, Military museum at Aboukir ~100 EGP) are modest. Many outdoor sites (Stanley Bridge, colonnades) are free.
  • Cash vs. Card: Cash is king. Many restaurants (except large hotels) take cash only. Banks and ATMs are plentiful (especially on Corniche and downtown); withdraw Egyptian pounds on arrival to avoid multiple currency exchanges. Hotels and upscale restaurants accept Visa/Mastercard, but small shops do not. Taxis usually prefer cash. It’s wise to have some small bills and coins for tips and small purchases. US dollars or Euros can be exchanged at a bank or bureau (official rates are displayed). Tipping small amounts always uses local currency.
  • Sample Budgets: A backpacker might sleep in a dorm bed ($5–10/night), eat falafel street-food ($1) and koshary ($2), take shared tram or bus ($0.20) – total ~$20/day. A mid-range traveler (nice hotel $60, sit-down meals $5–10 each, taxi/Uber rides) can do ~$50/day per person comfortably. First-class hotels on the Corniche (Four Seasons, historic Cecil) can run $150–$200/night, so Alexandria can serve both ends of the spectrum. Split costs are usually feasible – a gourmet dinner for two at a fine restaurant with multiple seafood dishes might be $40 total.

Connectivity: SIM/eSIM and Data

Staying online is easy. All major Egyptian carriers (Vodafone, Orange, Etisalat) sell prepaid SIM cards at branches and often at airport booths. Expect to show your passport. A typical tourist SIM might cost around $5–10 for 7–12 GB data (which is more than enough for a week). Current offerings: Vodafone and Orange have 10 GB for ~$8 and 30–40 GB plans for ~$18. Etisalat packages are similar. Coverage in Alexandria is good – 4G is available citywide (though small breaks can occur around catacombs).

Alternatively, eSIMs (digital SIM) can be pre-purchased from companies like Airalo or Nomad for an Egyptian number – useful to have data the moment you land. You may need Wi-Fi to activate an eSIM, so downloading one before arrival is wise. Public Wi-Fi in cafes and hotels is spotty and often unsecured, so plan on cellular data for maps and calls. Many Uber/Bolt drivers can speak basic English; mobile data helps with navigation and translation on the fly.

Accessibility & Family Tips

Alexandria is relatively kid-friendly, but historic sites can be challenging for strollers or wheelchairs:

  • Strollers/Steps: Most outdoor and flat sites (Montazah Gardens, Stanley Bridge promenade, Stanley Gardens, harbor viewpoints) are stroller-accessible. However, almost all archaeological and colonial sites have steps. Fort Qaitbay requires climbing ramped walls (no elevators). Kom el-Dikka amphitheatre is sunken with stairs (though an elevator reaches it). Catacombs and Ras el-Tin Palace are inaccessible to wheelchairs.
  • Library Ramps: The Bibliotheca Alexandrina was built with accessibility in mind. It has six elevators and ramps connecting floors, so a person with mobility issues can explore the main exhibition halls and library ground floor (planetarium likely has elevator access too). Library staff and science center staff are trained to assist disabled visitors.
  • Planetarium & Aquarium: The library’s Planetarium (cosmos dome) is accessible via elevator, and timed shows (for children’s science) run midday. The Montazah Aquarium is fully wheelchair-accessible and geared for kids (large tanks, tactile exhibits). It’s a fun diversion on a hot day (just note it closes at 5pm and is off on Mondays).
  • Parks and play areas: Montazah and Antoniades Gardens (near Fort Qaitbay) have open lawns and play areas for children to run. The new Stanley playground by the bridge is nice for younger kids. Alexandria’s Zoo (Maamoura) was closed for renovation (as of 2024) but check if sections have reopened.
  • Family accommodation: Some hotels offer family rooms or suites. Sheraton Montazah and Golden Jewel have family-friendly pools. The city has a few children’s museums (the Alexandria Science Museum at the library is very educational and accessible).

Overall, Alexandria is manageable with a stroller on main streets, and there are enough accessible options for kids to have fun. However, plan one parent to carry children around ruins.

Essential Logistics (Opening Times, Closures, Holidays)

Plan ahead for hours and holidays:

  • General hours: Typical Egyptian site hours are ~9 AM–4 PM (winter) or 9–5 (summer). Many museums and tourist sites are closed on Fridays until early afternoon (closed for noon prayers). Coptic and Christian churches may have different schedules (St Catherine’s opens Sunday). Always check the current hours on official sites or at your hotel, as they can change.
  • Holiday schedules: Major Egyptian holidays (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Islamic New Year) often see closures of state-run sites for a day or two (religious buildings remain open only for worship). December 25 (Coptic Christmas) is a public holiday: mosques and malls may be closed, but restaurants in hotels usually open. January 7 (Orthodox Christmas) is quieter; fish markets might close. Late April’s Sham el-Nessim (spring festival) sees picnickers by the water and potentially altered transport schedules. Summer Ramadan (dates shift yearly) can affect the rhythm: daytime restaurant service may be reduced (though tourist venues usually serve lunch), and evening after-sunset life (iftar dinners) thrives. Friday noon prayers mean some sites are closed ~12–2pm.
  • Library particulars: The Bibliotheca’s admission desk opens at 9 AM. On Fridays it generally remains closed for worship (reopens after 4pm but guided tours may not run). The planetarium and children’s Science Center have separate ticketing and times (check onsite schedule).
  • Cavafy Museum tip: If your heart is set on the Cavafy Museum, call ahead. It was off-limits for years to regular tourists. Since May 2024 it’s officially reopened, but entry is through the British Council in Alexandria and limited slots exist. If it disappoints you by closing, substitute the Boccara (Alexandria Unveiled) House museum of Egyptian modern art – it’s free, in Shatby, and a lovely colonial villa with 19th-20th century art.
  • Emergency contacts: For peace of mind, note that Alexandria has good hospitals (White Nile, Alexandria University Hospitals) and ambulance number 123. The local tourist police station (on Tahrir Sq) can assist with lost passports or safe deposit.

Itineraries (Printable)

One-Day Itinerary:
8:30 AM: Arrive at Bibliotheca Alexandrina, join a 9 AM English tour, explore exhibits (3 hours).
11:30: Walk (or taxi) to Pompey’s Pillar & Serapeum (45 min).
12:30: Continue on foot to Kom el-Shoqafa catacombs (1 hour).
1:30: Lunch at local seafood market (try falafel and sayadeya by the harbor).
2:30: Taxi to Qaitbay Citadel (1–1.5 hours). Climb ramparts, take photos.
4:30: Stroll Corniche east to Stanley Bridge. Enjoy sunset views from the bridge/walkway (if after 5 PM).
6:00: Dinner at Mansheya (try Fishawi’s or Balbaa for seafood).

Two-Day Itinerary:
Day 1: Follow Day-1 plan. Consider adding Alexandria National Museum (2 PM–4 PM) if time.
Day 2: Morning in Kom el-Dikka (Roman amphitheater, 1 hour) and Royal Jewelry Museum (45 min). Lunch at downtown café. Afternoon at Montazah Gardens and beach (3 hours, including swim). Late afternoon return to City Center, shop in Souk El-Attarine, coffee in historic café.

Three-Day Itinerary:
Day 3 (Option A): Morning visit to Cavafy Museum (if open) and nearby British Council. Then head to Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque for midday prayer and sightseeing (1 hour). Lunch in Arab Ellaheya district (traditional Egyptian home-cooking). Afternoon side-trip to Rosetta (tour) or relax with a Corniche bike ride and sunset at Stanley.
Day 3 (Option B): El-Alamein (half-day WWII tour). Leave Alexandria after breakfast, visit cemeteries and museum, return by evening for a leisurely dinner at Abu Qir Bay (clam shacks on the sand).

Responsible & Future-Facing Travel in Alexandria

Alexandria’s delicate coastal environment is changing. Rising sea levels and erosion threaten its shoreline and archaeological sites. Visitors can help by following local guidance: don’t climb on fragile ruins or take shells from the beaches, and avoid littering. The Bibliotheca and local NGOs sometimes host clean-up events – participating is a meaningful way to give back. When diving the underwater sites, ensure you use licensed operators who don’t disturb artifacts or corals.

Ecotourism tips: Most local seafood is sustainably caught (the government monitors gulf quotas), so feel good enjoying a fish dinner. Reduce plastic waste by carrying a refillable water bottle (tap water at hotels is potable). Tipping and supporting local guides directly helps Alexandria’s economy.

Finally, Alexandria is slowly moving towards greener transit (the tram rehab is partly “green public transport”). As a visitor, walk or take trams/metros when possible. If flying in, note that Cairo’s airport is very central (Ramses St), whereas Alexandria’s lies out by Borg El Arab – which means the city is now easier accessed by rail than by air.

Treat Alexandria as more than a checklist of monuments: engage with its present-day culture and environment. Every ticket you buy, every local café you sip tea in, helps preserve the city’s living heritage. In return, Alexandria will reward you with its subtle beauty, a blend of ancient mystery and vibrant urban life.

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