{"id":2514,"date":"2024-08-14T22:28:39","date_gmt":"2024-08-14T22:28:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/staging\/?p=2514"},"modified":"2026-02-26T02:03:13","modified_gmt":"2026-02-26T02:03:13","slug":"literarni-bulevar-v-moskve","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/magazine\/tourist-destinations\/literary-boulevard-in-moscow\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201eLITER\u00c1RN\u00cd BULEVAR\u201c v Moskv\u011b"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r, nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed se pod\u00e9l historick\u00e9ho Bulv\u00e1rn\u00edho okruhu, je specializovan\u00e1 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed trasa vinouc\u00ed se 4,4 km centrem Moskvy. Promen\u00e1da spojuje Tversk\u00fd a Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r s Patriarchov\u00fdmi rybn\u00edky a Star\u00fdm Arbatem a vede n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky kolem soch a muze\u00ed oslavuj\u00edc\u00edch Pu\u0161kina, Gogola, Bulgakova, Tolst\u00e9ho a dal\u0161\u00ed velk\u00e9 rusk\u00e9 osobnosti. Stezku zdob\u00ed \u017eiv\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra a tich\u00e9 parky, kter\u00e9 \u010dten\u00e1\u0159e vyb\u00edzej\u00ed k p\u0159edstav\u00e1m o sc\u00e9n\u00e1ch z... <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em>, <em>Anna Karenina<\/em> nebo <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se na t\u011bchto ulic\u00edch.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Slib a rozsah Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V centru Moskvy se listnat\u00fd bulv\u00e1r st\u00e1v\u00e1 narativn\u00ed p\u00e1te\u0159\u00ed propojuj\u00edc\u00ed stalet\u00ed rusk\u00e9 literatury. Zde se velkolep\u00e9 pam\u00e1tky, byty spisovatel\u016f a evokativn\u00ed uli\u010dn\u00ed rohy st\u00e1vaj\u00ed kapitolami v rusk\u00e9m liter\u00e1rn\u00edm p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu. 4,4 km dlouh\u00e1 p\u011b\u0161\u00ed trasa \u2013 \u010dasto naz\u00fdvan\u00e1 Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r \u2013 spojuje Pu\u0161kinovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r, Star\u00fd Arbat, Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky a dal\u0161\u00ed. Na rozd\u00edl od pouh\u00e9ho prohl\u00eddkov\u00e9ho itiner\u00e1\u0159e tato trasa stav\u00ed do pop\u0159ed\u00ed samotn\u00e9 spisovatele: proch\u00e1z\u00ed kolem budov, kde Pu\u0161kin dvo\u0159il sv\u00e9 nev\u011bst\u011b a Bulgakov vyvol\u00e1val \u010f\u00e1bla, kde Gogol p\u00e1lil rukopisy a Gorkij snil o socialistick\u00fdch utopi\u00edch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pov\u011bst Moskvy jako \u201eliter\u00e1rn\u00edho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta\u201c Ruska spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 na t\u00e9to intimn\u00ed geografii. Od zlat\u00e9ho v\u011bku (Pu\u0161kin, Gogol) p\u0159es st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00fd v\u011bk (Cv\u011btajevov\u00e1, Majakovskij) a\u017e po sov\u011btskou \u00e9ru (Bulgakov, Gorkij) tyto ulice formovali spisovatele a oni jimi byli formov\u00e1ni. Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r prom\u011b\u0148uje ka\u017ed\u00fd roh v muzejn\u00ed expozici s plaketami a sochami zobrazuj\u00edc\u00edmi obl\u00edben\u00e9 autory spolu s v\u00fdjevy z jejich d\u011bl. Pro n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edka slibuje nejen pam\u00e1tky, kter\u00e9 \u201emus\u00edte vid\u011bt\u201c, ale i pocit objevov\u00e1n\u00ed: zastr\u010den\u00e9 n\u00e1hrobky, plakety na skromn\u00fdch \u010din\u017eovn\u00edch domech, tich\u00fd dv\u016fr, kde se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 socha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Porozum\u011bn\u00ed liter\u00e1rn\u00edmu bulv\u00e1ru \u2014 historie, geografie a kulturn\u00ed v\u00fdznam<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Samotn\u00fd moskevsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1rn\u00ed okruh se zrodil po po\u017e\u00e1ru v roce 1812, kter\u00fd zni\u010dil st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9 m\u011bsto. Po\u017e\u00e1r zni\u010dil hradby B\u00edl\u00e9ho m\u011bsta a pl\u00e1nova\u010di je do roku 1823 nahradili bulv\u00e1ry lemovan\u00fdmi stromy. Prvn\u00edm z nich byl Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r, vysazen\u00fd v roce 1796, kter\u00fd brzy napodobili Nikitsk\u00fd, Strastnoj a dal\u0161\u00ed. Kdysi okrasn\u00e9 promen\u00e1dy pro \u0161lechtice a mu\u0161ket\u00fdry se tyto bulv\u00e1ry v 19. stolet\u00ed staly jevi\u0161t\u011bm spole\u010densk\u00e9ho i liter\u00e1rn\u00edho \u017eivota.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Moskva vs. Petrohrad:<\/strong> Rusov\u00e9 \u010dasto srovn\u00e1vali Pu\u0161kinovu Moskvu s Lermontovov\u00fdm Petrohradem \u2013 jeden byl \u201ebujn\u00fd a srde\u010dn\u00fd\u201c, druh\u00fd \u201echladn\u00fd a uzav\u0159en\u00fd\u201c. Moskevsk\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry byly m\u00edstem, kde Pu\u0161kin honil Natalii Gon\u010darovovou a pozd\u011bji se intelektu\u00e1lov\u00e9 shroma\u017e\u010fovali pod p\u016flno\u010dn\u00edm st\u00ednidlem lamp, aby diskutovali o budoucnosti Ruska. Role m\u011bsta v literatu\u0159e se v\u00e1\u017en\u011b zv\u00fd\u0161ila b\u011bhem zlat\u00e9ho v\u011bku 20. a 30. let 19. stolet\u00ed. Alexandr Pu\u0161kin a jeho sou\u010dasn\u00edci po\u0159\u00e1dali salony v Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm klubu na Tversk\u00e9 ulici a v polovin\u011b stolet\u00ed v Moskv\u011b s\u00eddlili liter\u00e1rn\u00ed velik\u00e1ni od Gogola po Tolst\u00e9ho.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Historick\u00e1 pozn\u00e1mka<br>\u201eSejdeme se u Pu\u0161kina\u201c se stalo moskevsk\u00fdm kli\u0161\u00e9 ji\u017e v roce 1880, kdy byla Pu\u0161kinova socha odhalena na tehdej\u0161\u00edm Strastn\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Tato fr\u00e1ze p\u0159etrv\u00e1v\u00e1 a symbolizuje, jak se m\u011bsto samo stalo m\u00edstem setk\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed literatury a \u017eivota (viz n\u00ed\u017ee uveden\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st o Pu\u0161kinovi).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ve st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9m v\u011bku (konec 19. a za\u010d\u00e1tek 20. stolet\u00ed) se na moskevsk\u00fdch bulv\u00e1rech rozv\u00edjel jin\u00fd liter\u00e1rn\u00ed rozkv\u011bt. B\u00e1sn\u00edci a romanopisci jako Mandel\u0161tam, Cv\u011btajevov\u00e1 a Pasternak nav\u0161t\u011bvovali kav\u00e1rny v oblasti Arbatu a Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edk\u016f. N\u011bkolik dnes zn\u00e1m\u00fdch byt\u016f na Arbatu slou\u017eilo jako ateli\u00e9ry pro dramatiku a poezii. V sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9\u0159e se mnoho p\u0159edrevolu\u010dn\u00edch budov stalo spole\u010dn\u00fdmi byty; ironicky v nich s\u00eddlili spisovatel\u00e9 jako Bulgakov, jeho\u017e <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> otev\u00edr\u00e1 se u Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edk\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V pr\u016fb\u011bhu \u010dasu autority st\u0159\u00eddav\u011b uchov\u00e1valy a potla\u010dovaly tento odkaz. Stalin obdivoval Pu\u0161kinovu poezii, ale n\u011bkter\u00e9 pam\u00e1tn\u00edky vyhnal (zejm\u00e9na v roce 1950 p\u0159em\u00edstil p\u016fvodn\u00ed Pu\u0161kinovu sochu). Pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00ed desetilet\u00ed p\u0159inesla renesanci: otev\u00edrala se muzea spisovatel\u016f (nap\u0159\u00edklad Bulgakovovo v roce 2007) a sochy se mno\u017eily, aby se znovu objevila zanikl\u00e1 historie. Dne\u0161n\u00ed narativ Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru je proto vrstevnat\u00fd: jde stejn\u011b tak o ruskou kulturn\u00ed pam\u011b\u0165 jako o doslovnou geografii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bulv\u00e1rn\u00ed okruh 19. stolet\u00ed a inteligence<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Koncem 18. a za\u010d\u00e1tkem 19. stolet\u00ed se Moskva prom\u011bnila z pevnostn\u00edho m\u011bsta v kulturn\u00ed metropoli. Po roce 1812 se vyklizen\u00fd prostor stal p\u00e1sem bulv\u00e1r\u016f, kter\u00fdm se proch\u00e1z\u00edme dnes. Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (1796) vedl na sever od star\u00fdch Horn\u00edch obchodn\u00edch \u0159ad (Petrovka) a spojoval panstv\u00ed a s\u00eddla. Byl lemov\u00e1n \u010dajovnami a pas\u00e1\u017eemi, kde si spisovatel\u00e9 vym\u011b\u0148ovali n\u00e1pady \u2013 ob\u00fdvac\u00ed salon pod stromy. V polovin\u011b stolet\u00ed \u017eil na Nikitsk\u00e9m bulv\u00e1ru Nikolaj Gogol a ve sv\u00fdch d\u00edlech zv\u011b\u010dnil ruch a \u00fapadek Moskvy. <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em>Domy Tolst\u00e9ho, Leskova a dal\u0161\u00edch na bulv\u00e1ru se propl\u00e9taly v t\u00e9to s\u00edti liter\u00e1rn\u00edch adres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Moskva jako liter\u00e1rn\u00ed hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Ruska<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pu\u0161kin, \u010dasto naz\u00fdvan\u00fd otcem modern\u00ed rusk\u00e9 literatury, stanovil vzor, \u200b\u200bkter\u00fdm se mnoho pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edch autor\u016f \u0159\u00eddilo: \u017eili, pracovali a dokonce se zde i \u017eenili. V roce 1831 se Pu\u0161kin o\u017eenil s Nata\u0161ou Gon\u010darovovou v sousedn\u00edm kostele Nanebevstoupen\u00ed P\u00e1n\u011b (nyn\u00ed Pu\u0161kin\u016fv pam\u011btn\u00ed kostel) a pot\u00e9 str\u00e1vil l\u00edb\u00e1nky v byt\u011b na Arbatu na bulv\u00e1ru. Dostojevskij, \u010cechov a Nabokov psali moskevsk\u00e9 sc\u00e9ny, kter\u00e9 jsou dodnes rozeznateln\u00e9 v uli\u010dk\u00e1ch. Dvoj\u00ed identita m\u011bsta \u2013 c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00e9ho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta a kulturn\u00edho srdce \u2013 je patrn\u00e1 v jeho vrstv\u00e1ch: carsk\u00e1 divadla na Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 ulici, pravoslavn\u00e9 katedr\u00e1ly na Mjasnick\u00e9 ulici, avantgardn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed na Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edc\u00edch, to v\u0161e protk\u00e1no spisovatelsk\u00fdm d\u011bdictv\u00edm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Zlat\u00fd v\u011bk: Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed Moskva 19. stolet\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V 19. stolet\u00ed se zrodili nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed moskev\u0161t\u00ed auto\u0159i. Gogolovy satirick\u00e9 b\u00e1sn\u011b <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bl m\u00edsty na tomto okruhu \u2013 nap\u0159\u00edklad popsal kupeck\u00e9 vesel\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se konalo v nedalek\u00e9m \u017duravsk\u00e9ho dom\u011b na Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici. Tolst\u00e9ho Anna Karenina zobrazuje promen\u00e1dy v tane\u010dn\u00edm s\u00e1le nedaleko Tversk\u00e9 ulice. S\u00e1m Pu\u0161kin \u017eil na adrese Bol\u0161aja Nikitskaja 53 (nyn\u00ed jeho pam\u011btn\u00ed byt) a svou nev\u011bstu si vzal hned za rohem. Turgen\u011bv se po cest\u011b po Evrop\u011b vr\u00e1til a zjistil, \u017ee moskevsk\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed salony na bulv\u00e1ru jsou stejn\u011b \u017eiv\u00e9 jako v\u017edy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>V roce 1880 odhalili liter\u00e1rn\u00ed velik\u00e1ni Ivan Turgen\u011bv a Fjodor Dostojevskij monument\u00e1ln\u00ed bronzovou sochu Pu\u0161kina od Alexandra Opeku\u0161ina. Socha, p\u016fvodn\u011b um\u00edst\u011bn\u00e1 na tehdej\u0161\u00edm Strastn\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, se stala \u00fast\u0159edn\u00edm bodem moskevsk\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed sc\u00e9ny (odtud fr\u00e1ze \u201esejdeme se u Pu\u0161kina\u201c).<\/p><cite>Historick\u00e1 pozn\u00e1mka<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">St\u0159\u00edbrn\u00fd v\u011bk: B\u00e1sn\u00edci a spisovatel\u00e9 po\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na za\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed p\u0159itahovaly moskevsk\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry a okol\u00ed b\u00e1sn\u00edky st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9ho v\u011bku: mezi nimi Achmatovovou, Gumiljova a Cv\u011btajevovou. Tito spisovatel\u00e9 se \u010dasto sch\u00e1zeli v boh\u00e9msk\u00fdch kav\u00e1rn\u00e1ch a pronaj\u00edmali si skromn\u00e9 \u200b\u200bbyty na Star\u00e9m Arbatu. Nap\u0159\u00edklad Marina Cvetajevov\u00e1 \u017eila v jednoduch\u00e9m byt\u011b v Borisoglebsk\u00e9 uli\u010dce u bulv\u00e1ru, dnes mal\u00e9m, ale dojemn\u00e9m dom\u011b-muzeu. Prot\u00ednala se zde i avantgardn\u00ed sc\u00e9na: Majakovskij inscenoval futuristickou poezii pobl\u00ed\u017e Pu\u0161kinova n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a Pasternak psal rom\u00e1ny v nedalek\u00e9m byt\u011b u Majakovsk\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Turbulence revoluce a v\u00e1lky v\u0161ak znamenaly sm\u00ed\u0161en\u00e9 osudy. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed auto\u0159i vzkv\u00e9tali pod sov\u011btskou patronac\u00ed (jako Gorkij), jin\u00ed \u017eili ve strachu nebo exilu. Ve 30. letech 20. stolet\u00ed byly \u010d\u00e1sti Moskvy smaz\u00e1ny ze zem\u011b nebo znovu postaveny \u2013 Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky se staly d\u011bji\u0161t\u011bm studentsk\u00fdch povst\u00e1n\u00ed a mnoho elegantn\u00edch s\u00eddel se stalo spole\u010dn\u00fdmi byty (kominterny), kter\u00e9 hostily n\u011bkolik spisovatelsk\u00fdch rodin. Tato slo\u017eit\u00e1 historie zanechala palimpsest: liter\u00e1rn\u00ed pam\u00e1tky p\u0159e\u017eily uprost\u0159ed pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edho betonu a dne\u0161n\u00ed prohl\u00eddky se mus\u00ed orientovat ve vrstv\u00e1ch zm\u011bn \u00fazemn\u00edho pl\u00e1nu, aby je na\u0161ly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sov\u011btsk\u00e1 \u00e9ra a postsov\u011btsk\u00e1 renesance<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Za Stalina byly star\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tky n\u011bkdy odstra\u0148ov\u00e1ny (jak ji\u017e bylo zm\u00edn\u011bno, Pu\u0161kinova socha byla p\u0159em\u00edst\u011bna v roce 1950). Byly p\u0159id\u00e1ny nov\u00e9: nap\u0159\u00edklad slavn\u00e1 socha Gogola od socha\u0159e Nikolaje Andrejeva (p\u016fvodn\u011b odhalen\u00e1 v roce 1909) byla a\u017e do 50. let 20. stolet\u00ed ukryta na n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed. Po sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9\u0159e Moskva znovuobjevila sv\u00e9 spisovatele. V 90. a 2000. letech do\u0161lo k rozmachu muze\u00ed: byl zv\u011b\u010dn\u011bn Bulgakov\u016fv chaotick\u00fd byt (s jeho \u010dernou ko\u010dkou Behemotem zv\u011b\u010dn\u011bnou na fas\u00e1d\u011b); skromn\u00fd byt Cv\u011btajevov\u00e9 na Arbatu byl otev\u0159en pro n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky; Pu\u0161kin\u016fv byt byl pe\u010dliv\u011b zrekonstruov\u00e1n. Sou\u010dasn\u00e1 identita Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed toto postsov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00fasil\u00ed o uct\u011bn\u00ed minulosti: vedle nostalgick\u00fdch pam\u00e1tn\u00edk\u016f byly odhaleny pam\u00e1tky jako Bulgakovova socha Nikanora nebo Gangnus s Pu\u0161kinem a jeho nev\u011bstou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p><br>Moskevsk\u00fd historik poznamen\u00e1v\u00e1, \u017ee dnes bulv\u00e1r \u201ep\u016fsob\u00ed jako liter\u00e1rn\u00ed \u010dasov\u00e1 schr\u00e1nka\u201c \u2013 ka\u017ed\u00e1 lavi\u010dka a pouli\u010dn\u00ed lampa je propojena p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhem. Sez\u00f3nn\u00ed akce (ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u00ed Pu\u0161kinovo \u010dten\u00ed poezie v den jeho narozenin nebo letn\u00ed prohl\u00eddky Mistra a Margarity) o\u017eivuj\u00ed trasu pro m\u00edstn\u00ed i turisty.<\/p><cite>M\u00edstn\u00ed perspektiva<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Kompletn\u00ed p\u011b\u0161\u00ed trasa \u2013 od za\u010d\u00e1tku do konce s GPS sou\u0159adnicemi<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Proch\u00e1zka po Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru m\u016f\u017ee za\u010d\u00ednat a kon\u010dit na v\u00edce m\u00edstech, ale jedn\u00edm z obl\u00edben\u00fdch za\u010d\u00e1tk\u016f je Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (metro Tverskaja\/Pu\u0161kinskaja). Odtud pokra\u010dujte po Bulv\u00e1rn\u00edm okruhu proti sm\u011bru hodinov\u00fdch ru\u010di\u010dek (viz mapa n\u00ed\u017ee) po dobu zhruba 4\u20135 hodin, nebo si trasu rozd\u011blte na \u00faseky. Trasu lze absolvovat po \u010d\u00e1stech (p\u016fl dne na \u00fasek Arbat\u2013Rybn\u00edk, cel\u00fd den na prohl\u00eddku cel\u00e9ho \u00faseku). Mezi kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 zast\u00e1vky metra na trase pat\u0159\u00ed Tverskaja, \u010cechovskaja, Smolenskaja\/Arbatskaja, Majakovskaja a Barrikadnaja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dobr\u00fd p\u0159ehled (s GPS body pro ka\u017edou hlavn\u00ed zast\u00e1vku) by mohl vypadat takto: Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed \u2192 Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (od Pu\u0161kinovy \u200b\u200bsochy k Jeseninovu pomn\u00edku) \u2192 Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (socha a d\u016fm Gogola) \u2192 Bol\u0161aja Nikitskaja (Gorksk\u00e9ho d\u016fm) \u2192 Star\u00fd Arbat (Pu\u0161kin a Gon\u010darov, Okud\u017eava) \u2192 Smolenskaja (Pu\u0161kin\u016fv byt) \u2192 Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky (Bulgakovova m\u00edsta) \u2192 (voliteln\u00e1 obj\u00ed\u017e\u010fka sov\u011btskou modernou: Leninskij) \u2192 zp\u011bt sm\u011brem k kone\u010dn\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ru. Mapy trasy a sou\u0159adnice ke sta\u017een\u00ed naleznete v sekci Stru\u010dn\u00fd p\u0159ehled n\u00ed\u017ee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Celkov\u00e1 vzd\u00e1lenost:<\/strong> ~4,4 km ch\u016fze.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>P\u0159edpokl\u00e1dan\u00fd \u010das:<\/strong>5\u20133,5 hodiny ch\u016fze (v\u00edce s n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvami muze\u00ed).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Sou\u0159adnice:<\/strong> Pr\u016fvodce obsahuje p\u0159esn\u00e9 GPS body (viz Stru\u010dn\u00fd p\u0159ehled). Nap\u0159\u00edklad Pu\u0161kinova socha: 55,7656\u00b0N, 37,6058\u00b0E; Vchod k Patriarchovu rybn\u00edku: 55,7639\u00b0N, 37,5922\u00b0E.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">P\u0159ehled trasy: Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed cesta dlouh\u00e1 4,4 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Za\u010dn\u011bte na Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (metro Pu\u0161kinskaja). \u00dast\u0159edn\u00edm bodem n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed je Pu\u0161kin\u016fv pomn\u00edk (55\u00b045\u203256\u2033 s. \u0161., 37\u00b036\u203221\u2033 v. d.). Odtud se vydejte na Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r sm\u011brem na z\u00e1pad. Prvn\u00ed \u00fasek (asi 1 km) vede pod ka\u0161tany a kolem star\u00e9 moskevsk\u00e9 radnice. Hledejte vpravo sochu Jesenina na Tversk\u00e9 ulici (na severn\u00ed stran\u011b pobl\u00ed\u017e Moskevsk\u00e9ho um\u011bleck\u00e9ho divadla). D\u00e1le na bulv\u00e1ru najdete kav\u00e1rny, kter\u00e9 kdysi hostily sov\u011btsk\u00e9 spisovatele \u2013 po lev\u00e9 stran\u011b m\u00edjejte historick\u00e9 kino (d\u0159\u00edve Rossia).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokra\u010dujte po Tversk\u00e9 ulici na Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r. Na rohu ulic Tversk\u00e1 a Bol\u0161aja Nikitsk\u00e1 p\u0159ejdete Nikitskou br\u00e1nu \u2013 nedaleko stoj\u00ed bronzov\u00e1 socha Pu\u0161kina a jeho man\u017eelky Natalje Gon\u010darovov\u00e9 (sou\u0159adnice ~55,7590\u00b0N, 37,5952\u00b0E). Pokra\u010dujte po Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici; p\u00e1r blok\u016f z\u00e1padn\u011b po va\u0161\u00ed levici se nach\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed pam\u00e1tn\u00edku Nikolaje Gogola (Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r 7A) a hned vedle Muzeum Gogolova domu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z Nikitsk\u00e9ho pokra\u010dujte na ulici Bol\u0161aja Nikitskaja sm\u011brem na jihoz\u00e1pad. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 hned vpravo (na ji\u017en\u00ed stran\u011b) se nach\u00e1z\u00ed D\u016fm Maxima Gork\u00e9ho (Malaja Nikitskaja 6), secesn\u00ed s\u00eddlo se \u017elutou fas\u00e1dou \u2013 nyn\u00ed muzeum Gork\u00e9ho domu. Pokra\u010dujte d\u00e1l, dokud nedojdete na klidnou p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3nu Star\u00fd Arbat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na severn\u00edm konci Star\u00e9ho Arbatu (pobl\u00ed\u017e stanice metra Smolenskaja) nav\u0161tivte Pu\u0161kin\u016fv pam\u011btn\u00ed apartm\u00e1n (ulice Arbat 53) a p\u0159ilehlou sochu Pu\u0161kina a Gon\u010darovov\u00e9. Pokra\u010dujte na jih pod\u00e9l Arbatu: v Plotnikovov\u011b uli\u010dce najdete pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Bulata Okud\u017eavy s jeho charakteristick\u00fdmi dvojit\u00fdmi oblouky (ulice Arbat 53). Arbat (55\u00b045\u203205\u2033 s. \u0161., 37\u00b035\u203249\u2033 v. d.) je lemov\u00e1n historick\u00fdmi budovami a kav\u00e1rnami; nechte se pono\u0159it do boh\u00e9msk\u00e9 atmosf\u00e9ry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z ji\u017en\u00edho konce Arbatu se vydejte na v\u00fdchod po Vozdvi\u017eence a jeden blok na jih, abyste se dostali k parku Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky (pobl\u00ed\u017e stanice metra Majakovskaja, sou\u0159adnice 55.7639\u00b0N 37.5922\u00b0E). \u00dast\u0159edn\u00edm bodem je samotn\u00fd rybn\u00edk, lemovan\u00fd pavilonem. Nedaleko stoj\u00ed pam\u011btn\u00ed desky a sochy (Bulgakov a Krylov). Od rybn\u00edk\u016f se lze vr\u00e1tit stejnou cestou zp\u011bt, nebo prodlou\u017eenou okru\u017en\u00ed j\u00edzdou pokra\u010dovat k Patriarchsk\u00e9mu projezdu a Novinsk\u00e9mu bulv\u00e1ru a vr\u00e1tit se na Tverskou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>Hladiny hluku se li\u0161\u00ed \u2013 Patr. Ponds a Arbat se \u010dasto hem\u017e\u00ed davy a hudebn\u00edky, zat\u00edmco brzk\u00e1 r\u00e1na na Tversk\u00e9 t\u0159\u00edd\u011b nebo na Gogolovu n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed nab\u00edzej\u00ed tich\u00e9 rozj\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed. Pro fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed vrhaj\u00ed \u010dasn\u00e1 letn\u00ed r\u00e1na nebo pozdn\u00ed odpoledne na font\u00e1ny a sochy m\u011bkk\u00e9 sv\u011btlo.<\/p><cite>Tip od zasv\u011bcen\u00fdch osob<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">V\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod: Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Metro:<\/strong> Pu\u0161kinskaja\/Tverskaja\/\u010cechovskaja (\u0159\u00e1dky 3, 2, 9).<br><strong>Co vid\u011bt:<\/strong> N\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed dominuje ikonick\u00e1 bronzov\u00e1 socha Alexandra Pu\u0161kina od A. Opeku\u0161ina (1880). Za n\u00ed se ty\u010d\u00ed budova, kde se konaly p\u0159ehl\u00eddky novin, a star\u00e9 divadlo Petrovka (s font\u00e1nou Gophers), kter\u00e9 tvo\u0159\u00ed \u00fachvatnou kulisu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Z n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed si v\u0161imn\u011bte kruhov\u00e9ho oblouku bulv\u00e1ru, kter\u00fd odbo\u010duje doleva (na sever) na Tverskou bulv\u00e1r. Historicky se toto n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed jmenovalo Strastnaja, pojmenovan\u00e1 po kl\u00e1\u0161te\u0159e Umu\u010den\u00ed P\u00e1n\u011b (zbo\u0159en\u00e9m ve 30. letech 20. stolet\u00ed). Samotn\u00e1 socha byla financov\u00e1na Moskvany a vytes\u00e1na k Pu\u0161kinovu st\u00e9mu v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed. Jej\u00ed n\u00e1pis a um\u00edst\u011bn\u00ed spojuj\u00ed Pu\u0161kina se srdcem m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/em> Jd\u011bte severoz\u00e1padn\u00edm sm\u011brem po Tversk\u00e9 t\u0159\u00edd\u011b k so\u0161e Jesenina (viz kapitola 3.4).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r: Velk\u00e1 promen\u00e1da<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (55\u00b045\u203257\u2033 s. \u0161., 37\u00b036\u203221\u2033 v. d.) je prvn\u00edm a nejvelkolep\u011bj\u0161\u00edm \u00fasekem bulv\u00e1rn\u00edho okruhu. Os\u00e1zen\u00fd lipami a ka\u0161tany, je m\u00f3dn\u00ed promen\u00e1dou ji\u017e od dob Kate\u0159iny Velik\u00e9. Pr\u00e1v\u011b zde Arina Rodionovna \u00fadajn\u011b vypr\u00e1v\u011bla mlad\u00e9mu Pu\u0161kinovi p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy a nositel Nobelovy ceny Ivan Bunin zde vydal pam\u011bti o kouzlu bulv\u00e1rn\u00edho okruhu v 19. stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bulv\u00e1r je dnes lemov\u00e1n luxusn\u00edmi obchody a hotely, ale historick\u00fdch pam\u00e1tek je tu spousta. Na severn\u00ed stran\u011b, pobl\u00ed\u017e Tversk\u00e9 ulice, se nach\u00e1z\u00ed mal\u00fd park se sochou Sergeje Jesenina. (Jesenin kr\u00e1tce \u017eil v Tversk\u00e9m komun\u00e1ln\u00edm byt\u011b; socha byla odhalena v roce 1995 u p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti jeho st\u00e9ho v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed). D\u00e1le stoj\u00ed star\u00e1 <em>Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed kav\u00e1rna<\/em>, nav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u00fd sov\u011btsk\u00fdmi b\u00e1sn\u00edky, nyn\u00ed restaurace. Sm\u011brem k v\u00fdchodn\u00edmu konci Tversk\u00e9 ulice (pobl\u00ed\u017e Divadeln\u00edho n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed) se nach\u00e1z\u00ed star\u00fd Burnakov\u016fv d\u016fm a dal\u0161\u00ed aristokratick\u00e9 domy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na ja\u0159e a v l\u00e9t\u011b se Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r pln\u00ed hudbou a pouli\u010dn\u00edmi um\u011blci. V\u0161imn\u011bte si sm\u011bsice architektonick\u00fdch styl\u016f pod\u00e9l trasy, od s\u00eddel z konce 19. stolet\u00ed a\u017e po bloky ze sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9ry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/em> U b\u00fdval\u00e9 Nikitsk\u00e9 br\u00e1ny odbo\u010dte na severoz\u00e1pad na Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r: Gogolovo \u00fazem\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r pokra\u010duje v okruhu, zhruba rovnob\u011b\u017en\u011b se Zahradn\u00edm okruhem. Zachoval si atmosf\u00e9ru p\u0159edrevolu\u010dn\u00ed Moskvy s tajn\u00fdmi dvorky a stacion\u00e1rn\u00edmi kiosky. Zde v uzav\u0159en\u00e9m dvo\u0159e ti\u0161e stoj\u00ed jedna z nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch moskevsk\u00fdch soch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Pomn\u00edk Nikolaje Gogola (Nikitsky Blvd 7A):<\/strong> Pam\u00e1tn\u00e1 bronzov\u00e1 socha od Nikolaje Andrejeva (1909) zobrazuje shrben\u00e9ho, \u200b\u200bzamy\u0161len\u00e9ho Gogola na konci jeho \u017eivota. Kdy\u017e byla poprv\u00e9 odhalena, kritici se jej\u00ed zachmu\u0159en\u00e9 tv\u00e1\u0159i posm\u00edvali; Stalin ji nakonec v roce 1952 p\u0159em\u00edstil do tohoto tich\u00e9ho dvora a uchoval ji mimo dohled. Dnes stoj\u00ed p\u0159ed Muzeem Gogolova domu, b\u00fdval\u00fdm s\u00eddlem spisovatele (Nikitsky Blvd 7A).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Muzeum Gogolova domu:<\/strong> S\u00eddlo s terakotovou fas\u00e1dou je m\u00edstem, kde psal Gogol <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> (druh\u00fd svazek) a slavn\u00e9 sp\u00e1len\u00ed rukopis\u016f p\u0159ed jeho smrt\u00ed. Na tomto m\u00edst\u011b se nyn\u00ed nach\u00e1z\u00ed pam\u011btn\u00ed muzeum a v\u00fdzkumn\u00e1 knihovna, kde se uchov\u00e1vaj\u00ed jeho st\u016fl, portr\u00e9ty a jeho osobn\u00ed knihovna. Vstup je \u010dasto zdarma; v knihkupectv\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo v budov\u011b si m\u016f\u017eete koupit vz\u00e1cn\u00e1 vyd\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokra\u010dujte po Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici; po prav\u00e9 stran\u011b minete tich\u00fd kosteln\u00ed v\u00fdklenek se sochami Pu\u0161kina a Natalye Gon\u010darovov\u00e9 (Pu\u0161kinovy \u200b\u200bman\u017eelky) (nedaleko m\u00edsta Pu\u0161kinovy \u200b\u200bsvatby v roce 1831). O n\u011bkolik blok\u016f d\u00e1le na z\u00e1pad se Nikitsk\u00e1 ulice setk\u00e1v\u00e1 s Bol\u0161ajou Nikitskou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/em> Odbo\u010dte na jih na Bol\u0161aju Nikitskou sm\u011brem k Arbatu.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bolshaya Nikitskaya a Arbat District<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bol\u0161aja (Velk\u00e1) Nikitsk\u00e1 ulice v\u00e1s zavede do \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed \u010dtvrti Arbat. Hned na v\u00fdchodn\u00ed stran\u011b, hned za Nikitsk\u00fdm bulv\u00e1rem, se nach\u00e1z\u00ed Malaja Nikitsk\u00e1 6\/2 \u2013 Rjabu\u0161insk\u00e9ho s\u00eddlo (d\u016fm Maxima Gork\u00e9ho). Postaven v roce 1902 architektem F. \u0160echtelem, vynik\u00e1 zdoben\u00e1 fas\u00e1da a n\u00e1st\u011bnn\u00e9 malby. V letech 1906\u20131913 zde \u017eil Maxim Gorkij se svou \u017eenou a hostil zde osobnosti jako Tolstoj a \u010cechov. Dnes zde s\u00eddl\u00ed Gork\u00e9ho liter\u00e1rn\u00ed institut a mal\u00e9 muzeum o Gork\u00e9ho \u017eivot\u011b (otev\u00edrac\u00ed dobu si ov\u011b\u0159te online).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na k\u0159i\u017eovatce ulic Malaja Nikitsk\u00e1 a Arbat (55\u00b045\u203205\u2033 s. \u0161., 37\u00b035\u203249\u2033 v. d.) za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 Nov\u00fd Arbat. Odbo\u010dte vpravo (na z\u00e1pad) na p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3nu Star\u00fd Arbat. Tato dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00e1 ulice, kdysi obchodn\u00ed tr\u017enice, je kulturn\u00edm symbolem od 19. stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Star\u00fd Arbat je lemov\u00e1n st\u00e1nky se suven\u00fdry, divadly a kav\u00e1rnami, kter\u00e9 p\u016fsob\u00ed zastarale. V prvn\u00edm bloku po Malou Nikitskou si v\u0161imn\u011bte Pam\u011btn\u00edho Pu\u0161kinova bytu (Arbat 53) \u2013 pastelov\u011b \u017elut\u00e9 budovy s malou plaketou a okouzluj\u00edc\u00edm vnit\u0159n\u00edm n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00edm. Hned naproti n\u011bmu stoj\u00ed bronzov\u00e1 socha <em>Pu\u0161kin a Natalia Gon\u010darov\u00e1<\/em>, p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed jejich kr\u00e1tk\u00fd pobyt zde po svatb\u011b. Socha zobrazuje mlad\u00e9ho Pu\u0161kina, jak vede svou nev\u011bstu do svatebn\u00edho kostela na Ascension Lane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Projd\u011bte se hloub\u011bji do Arbatu. V p\u016fli cesty, v Plotnikovov\u011b pereuloku, stoj\u00ed pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Bulata Okud\u017eavy. Vytvo\u0159il ho socha\u0159 G. Franguljan a zobrazuje Okud\u017eavu v kr\u00e1\u010dej\u00edc\u00edm kroku s novinami pod pa\u017e\u00ed, lemovan\u00e9ho lyrick\u00fdmi ver\u0161i. Oblouky za n\u00edm symbolizuj\u00ed \u201ebr\u00e1ny\u201c Arbatu a p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed ver\u0161e z jeho p\u00edsn\u00ed o t\u00e9to ulici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Nejlep\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto pro focen\u00ed:<\/strong> Okud\u017eavova socha je fotogenick\u00e1 za \u00fasvitu nebo soumraku, kdy\u017e se oblouky za\u010dnou osv\u011btlovat bo\u010dn\u00edm sv\u011btlem. Nedalek\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny jako Cafetoria nebo Obed Bufet nab\u00edzej\u00ed \u010daj a tradi\u010dn\u00ed j\u00eddla a pokra\u010duj\u00ed tak v tradici liter\u00e1rn\u00edch kav\u00e1ren na bulv\u00e1ru (Okud\u017eava a jeho p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9 spisovatel\u00e9 \u010dasto hr\u00e1li na kytaru pr\u00e1v\u011b v t\u011bchto podnic\u00edch).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/em> Pokra\u010dujte a\u017e na konec Star\u00e9ho Arbatu (u stanice metra Smolenskaja) a pot\u00e9 odbo\u010dte doleva sm\u011brem k Patriarchov\u00fdm rybn\u00edk\u016fm.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky: Bulgakovova Nadp\u0159irozen\u00e1 Moskva<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky jsou klidnou enkl\u00e1vou vody a zelen\u011b, hned za Sadov\u00fdm okruhem (metro Majakovskaja\/Pu\u0161kinskaja). \u00dast\u0159edn\u00edm bodem je jeden velk\u00fd rybn\u00edk, obklopen\u00fd parkem, kde kdysi bruslila moskevsk\u00e1 elita 19. stolet\u00ed (budova kluzi\u0161t\u011b stoj\u00ed na z\u00e1padn\u00edm konci). V rom\u00e1nu Michaila Bulgakova <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em>, tento rybn\u00edk je pr\u00e1v\u011b m\u00edstem, kde se Berliozovi poprv\u00e9 zjevil \u010f\u00e1bel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky, m\u011bstsk\u00e1 o\u00e1za v Moskv\u011b. Tento leteck\u00fd pohled ukazuje centr\u00e1ln\u00ed oblast rybn\u00edk\u016f. Toto prost\u0159ed\u00ed slou\u017e\u00ed jako \u00favodn\u00ed sc\u00e9na Bulgakovova d\u00edla.<\/em> Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<em>a socha Bulgakova (za fotografem) stoj\u00ed nedaleko<\/em><em>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dnes je rybn\u00edk zdoben font\u00e1nami a lavi\u010dkami. Kolem n\u011bj jsou plakety s cit\u00e1ty <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> a n\u011bkolik liter\u00e1rn\u00edch soch. Na ji\u017en\u00edm b\u0159ehu se nach\u00e1z\u00ed Bulgakovova pam\u011btn\u00ed deska (z \u010derven\u00e9 \u017euly) a d\u00e1le bronzov\u00e1 socha Bulgakova s \u200b\u200bpodno\u017ekou (nezam\u011b\u0148ovat se slavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sochou na Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici). Nedaleko stoj\u00ed mal\u00e1 socha Ivana Krylova (bajk\u00e1\u0159e), kter\u00e1 odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed kulturn\u00ed presti\u017e m\u00edsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Proch\u00e1zka kolem rybn\u00edka (po sm\u011bru hodinov\u00fdch ru\u010di\u010dek od font\u00e1ny) v\u00e1s zavede kolem sov\u011btsk\u00fdch bytov\u00fdch dom\u016f, kde \u017eil Bulgakov (\u010d. p. 33\u201334). O blok severn\u011bji se nach\u00e1z\u00ed kostel sv. Alexandra \u2013 Velk\u00fd kostel Nanebevstoupen\u00ed P\u00e1n\u011b \u2013 kde se Pu\u0161kin v roce 1831 o\u017eenil s Natali\u00ed (tento kostel p\u016fvodn\u011b st\u00e1l na bulv\u00e1ru).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/em> U metra Barrikadnaja nebo Majakovskaja okruh dokon\u010dete nebo se vra\u0165te zp\u011bt na Arbat, kde najdete mo\u017enosti stravov\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Pam\u00e1tky \u2014 ka\u017ed\u00e1 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed socha pod\u00e9l trasy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Moskevsk\u00fd Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r je poset\u00fd pam\u00e1tn\u00edky, a to jak spisovatel\u016fm, tak postav\u00e1m, kter\u00e9 vytvo\u0159ili. N\u00ed\u017ee je uveden seznam hlavn\u00edch soch, se kter\u00fdmi se setk\u00e1te (se\u0159azen\u00fdch podle trasy). Ka\u017ed\u00e1 z nich m\u00e1 sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh, socha\u0159e a nejlep\u0161\u00ed \u00fahel pro fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Alexandra Pu\u0161kina (Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed):<\/strong> Toto je prvn\u00ed liter\u00e1rn\u00ed socha v Moskv\u011b (a pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed socha m\u011bsta). Byla odhalena v \u010dervnu 1880 a stoj\u00ed na zdej\u0161\u00edm vzne\u0161en\u00e9m podstavci. Opeku\u0161inova realistick\u00e1 postava Pu\u0161kina hled\u00ed p\u0159es Tverskou ulici (pozoruhodn\u011b ne p\u0159\u00edmo na publikum \u2013 jeho o\u010di sm\u011b\u0159uj\u00ed \u0161ikmo vzh\u016fru). Slavnostn\u00ed ceremoni\u00e1l v roce 1880 byl t\u0159\u00eddenn\u00ed a z\u00fa\u010dastnily se ho tis\u00edce lid\u00ed. Stalin pozd\u011bji, v roce 1950, p\u0159esunul sochu na tuto stranu Tversk\u00e9 ulice, kdy\u017e byl star\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter zbour\u00e1n.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Pushkin &amp; Natalya (Arbat, pobl\u00ed\u017e 53 Ul. Arbat):<\/strong> Modern\u00ed bronzov\u00e1 socha od socha\u0159e G. Franguljana, odhalen\u00e1 v roce 1999. Zobrazuje mlad\u00e9ho Pu\u0161kina s nev\u011bstou Natali\u00ed, jak vzpom\u00ednaj\u00ed na jejich kr\u00e1tkou svatebn\u00ed cestu na Arbat. Postavy jsou m\u00edrn\u011b nad\u017eivotn\u00ed a zasazeny pod obloukem. Slou\u017e\u00ed jako romantick\u00fd dopln\u011bk k so\u0161e na Pu\u0161kinov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a ukotvuje Pu\u0161kin\u016fv p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh v dom\u011b, kde \u017eil a o\u017eenil se.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Nikolaje Gogola (Nikitsky bulvar):<\/strong> Socha, kterou v roce 1909 vytvo\u0159il Nikolaj Andrejev, zobrazuje Gogola shrben\u00e9ho, \u200b\u200bse sklopen\u00fdma o\u010dima v zamy\u0161len\u00e9m \u00fa\u017easu. P\u0159i odhalen\u00ed u p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti st\u00e9ho v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed Gogolova narozen\u00ed mnoh\u00fdm se nel\u00edbil jej\u00ed ponur\u00fd t\u00f3n \u2013 dokonce i Stalin ji v roce 1952 p\u0159em\u00edstil na n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed Gogolova domu. Dnes ji najdete zastr\u010denou na dvo\u0159e p\u0159ed Nikitsk\u00fdm 7A (vchod do Gogolova muzea). Podstavec je obklopen basreli\u00e9fy postav z jeho d\u011bl (\u010ci\u010dikov, Chlestakov atd.). Foto: pro nejlep\u0161\u00ed \u010deln\u00ed z\u00e1b\u011bry nahl\u00e9dn\u011bte branou; odpoledn\u00ed sv\u011btlo osv\u011btluje jeho tv\u00e1\u0159.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Sergeje Yesenina (Tverskoy Blvd):<\/strong> Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se mezi Jermolovovou muzeem a Moskevsk\u00fdm um\u011bleck\u00fdm divadlem. Zobrazuje Jesenina le\u017e\u00e9rn\u011b stoj\u00edc\u00edho v ko\u0161ili a kravat\u011b s d\u00fdmkou v \u00fastech. Vytvo\u0159il ji A. Kozlov v roce 1995 (st\u00e9 v\u00fdro\u010d\u00ed Jesenina) a je vzd\u00e1v\u00e1na hold tomuto bos\u00e9mu \u201echulig\u00e1nsk\u00e9mu\u201c b\u00e1sn\u00edkovi, kter\u00fd ukon\u010dil sv\u016fj \u017eivot ve 30 letech. Socha je m\u00e9n\u011b monument\u00e1ln\u00ed ne\u017e v \u017eivotn\u00ed velikosti, um\u00edst\u011bn\u00e1 na jednoduch\u00e9m podstavci, co\u017e odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed Jeseninovu vlastn\u00ed skromnost. M\u00edsto (na travnat\u00e9m pruhu) je ide\u00e1ln\u00ed pro neform\u00e1ln\u00ed sn\u00edmky.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk Bulata Okud\u017eavy (Plotnikov Lane, Arbat 53):<\/strong> Bronzov\u00e1 figurka od Georgije Franguljana, odhalen\u00e1 v roce 2002 v den Okud\u017eavov\u00fdch narozenin. Zobrazuje Okud\u017eavu v kr\u00e1\u010dej\u00edc\u00edm kroku s novinami a pouzdrem na kytaru, or\u00e1movanou dv\u011bma ozdobn\u00fdmi oblouky s texty jeho p\u00edsn\u00ed. N\u00e1lada je melancholick\u00e1 a z\u00e1rove\u0148 nad\u011bjn\u00e1 \u2013 \u201emu\u017e z lidu\u201c a \u201emu\u017e literatury\u201c z\u00e1rove\u0148. Nejl\u00e9pe je vid\u011bt z ulice Arbat, kde oblouky tvo\u0159\u00ed kulisu. Nedaleko se nach\u00e1z\u00ed mozaikov\u00fd n\u00e1pis \u201eArbat\u201c.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed postavy a dal\u0161\u00ed:<\/strong> Pod\u00e9l bulv\u00e1ru si lze v\u0161imnout i men\u0161\u00edch pam\u00e1tek: sochy Sherlocka Holmese a Dr. Watsona pobl\u00ed\u017e Majakovsk\u00e9ho sochy na Tversk\u00e9 ulici (na po\u010dest Doyla, ale milovan\u00e1 Moskvany); hrav\u00e9ho dua Turgen\u011bva a Gon\u010darova na Tversk\u00e9 ulici (dv\u011b lavi\u010dky, kde si spisovatel\u00e9 pov\u00eddaj\u00ed) \u2013 ty v\u0161ak le\u017e\u00ed m\u00edrn\u011b mimo hlavn\u00ed trasu pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>Socha na Pu\u0161kinov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a Gogolova socha p\u0159edstavuj\u00ed dv\u011b um\u011bleck\u00e9 vize rusk\u00fdch autor\u016f. Prvn\u00ed je klasicky hrdinsk\u00e1; druh\u00e1, od Andrejeva, je proslul\u00e1 svou kontroverznost\u00ed \u2013 odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed Gogol\u016fv temn\u00fd posledn\u00ed rok. P\u0159i proch\u00e1zce od jedn\u00e9 k druh\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci za\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed moskevsk\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed spektrum v bronzu.<\/p><cite>Historick\u00e1 pozn\u00e1mka<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muzea \u2014 Kompletn\u00ed adres\u00e1\u0159 s informacemi pro n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Moskevsk\u00e1 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed muzea jsou pokladnic\u00ed artefakt\u016f: rukopis\u016f, osobn\u00edch dopis\u016f, d\u011btsk\u00fdch hra\u010dek. N\u00ed\u017ee naleznete praktick\u00fd seznam dom\u016f v\u0161ech spisovatel\u016f na Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru nebo v jeho okol\u00ed, v\u010detn\u011b adresy, otev\u00edrac\u00ed doby a vstupn\u00e9ho (stav k za\u010d\u00e1tku roku 2026). Otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba se m\u016f\u017ee m\u011bnit, proto si ov\u011b\u0159te informace online nebo p\u0159edem zavolejte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><thead><tr><td><strong>Muzeum<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Poloha (nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed metro)<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Hodiny (stav k roku 2026)<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Vstupn\u00e9 (dosp\u011bl\u00ed)<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Hlavn\u00ed body<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk A.S. Pu\u0161kina.<\/strong><\/td><td>Arbat 53 (Smolenskaya, Arbatskaya)<\/td><td>st, p\u00e1\u2013ne 10:00\u201318:00 (\u010dt 13:00\u201321:00)<\/td><td>~250 RUB<\/td><td>Zrekonstruovan\u00e9 pokoje, Pu\u0161kin\u016fv st\u016fl, portr\u00e9t Gon\u010darovov\u00e9<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Pam\u011btn\u00ed byt M. A. Bulgakova.<\/strong><\/td><td>Bolshaya Sadovaya 10, vst. 6 (Majakovsk\u00e1)<\/td><td>\u00dat\u2013St 12:00\u201319:00, \u010ct 14:00\u201321:00, P\u00e1\u2013Ne 12:00\u201319:00<\/td><td>~360 RUB<\/td><td>Origin\u00e1ln\u00ed interi\u00e9r bytu s graffiti fanou\u0161k\u016f a liter\u00e1rn\u00edmi slogany<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Pam\u011btn\u00ed byt Nikolaje Gogola.<\/strong><\/td><td>Nikitsky Blvd 7A (Novinsky Blvd\/Malakha)<\/td><td>St\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00 (Po\u2013\u00dat zav\u0159eno) <em>(kontrola <\/em><em>(Ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed webov\u00e9 str\u00e1nky)<\/em><\/td><td>~200 RUB<\/td><td>Gogolova pracovna, origin\u00e1ly <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em>, v\u00fdzdoba z 40. let 19. stolet\u00ed<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Marina Cvetaeva Memorial Apt.<\/strong><\/td><td>Borisoglebsky Lane 6 (Arbatskaya\/Smolenskaya)<\/td><td>St\u2013Ne 11:00\u201319:00, \u00dat 14:00\u201321:00<\/td><td>~700 RUB<\/td><td>B\u00e1sn\u00edk\u016fv pracovn\u00ed prostor, 45 000 expon\u00e1t\u016f; dobov\u00fd n\u00e1bytek<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Muzeum domu Maxima Gork\u00e9ho<\/strong><\/td><td>Malaya Nikitskaya 6\/2 (Tverskaya\/Pushkinskaya)<\/td><td>St\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00; Po\u2013\u00dat zav\u0159eno<\/td><td>~150 RUB<\/td><td>Gork\u00e9ho pracovna a obrazy Chagalla\/Repina, Schechtelova architektura<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk V. Majakovsk\u00e9ho, byt<\/strong><\/td><td>Bolshaya Bronnaja 25 (Majakovsk\u00e1)<\/td><td>St\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00; <em>Zav\u0159eno po\u2013\u00fat<\/em><\/td><td>~250 RUB<\/td><td>P\u016fvodn\u00ed ob\u00fdvac\u00ed pokoj, \u010dervenec 1915, moskevsk\u00e9 b\u00e1sn\u011b<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk F. M. Dostojevsk\u00e9ho, byt<\/strong><\/td><td>Kuzn\u011bck\u00fd most 5 (Lubjanka)<\/td><td>Po, St\u2013P\u00e1 11:00\u201319:00; So 12:00\u201320:00; Ne 11:00\u201317:00<\/td><td>~250 RUB<\/td><td>Dostojevsk\u00e9ho lo\u017enice, fotografie, <em>Karamazov<\/em> rukopisy<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Byt liter\u00e1rn\u00edho romanopisce (jin\u00fd)<\/strong><\/td><td><em>nap\u0159. \u010cechov Apt. (na Tagance) atd.<\/em><\/td><td><em>Viz m\u00edstn\u00ed zdroje<\/em><\/td><td>&nbsp;<\/td><td>&nbsp;<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>V\u011bt\u0161ina muze\u00ed je jeden den zav\u0159en\u00e1 (\u010dasto v pond\u011bl\u00ed nebo \u00fater\u00fd); o st\u00e1tn\u00edch sv\u00e1tc\u00edch se m\u016f\u017ee otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba m\u011bnit. Informace o expozic\u00edch jsou v ru\u0161tin\u011b, n\u011bkter\u00e9 maj\u00ed bro\u017eury v angli\u010dtin\u011b. Vstupenky na Pu\u0161kina, Bulgakova a Gogola (zejm\u00e9na do Bulgakovova muzea, proto\u017ee n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy jsou \u010dasov\u011b omezen\u00e9) lze rezervovat online p\u0159edem. Pr\u016fkaz Moskevsk\u00e9ho muzea pokr\u00fdv\u00e1 mnoho pam\u00e1tek a m\u016f\u017ee u\u0161et\u0159it \u010das (pr\u016fkazky vyd\u00e1vaj\u00ed na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00edch).<\/p><cite>Praktick\u00e9 informace<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Pu\u0161kin\u016fv pam\u011btn\u00ed apartm\u00e1n (Arbat 53)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Alexandr Pu\u0161kin str\u00e1vil ran\u00e9 d\u011btstv\u00ed v Moskv\u011b a tento skromn\u00fd byt na Arbatu (polovina 30. let 19. stolet\u00ed) se stal pam\u00e1tn\u00edkem \u017eenat\u00e9ho b\u00e1sn\u00edka. Po cest\u011b po Evrop\u011b se sem Pu\u0161kin v roce 1831 vr\u00e1til s Natali\u00ed. Muzeum bytu si zachovalo atmosf\u00e9ru: \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd p\u016fvodn\u00ed n\u00e1bytek se nez\u016fstal, ale kur\u00e1to\u0159i zrekonstruovali pokoje podle Vjazemsk\u00e9ho pam\u011bt\u00ed. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci si prohl\u00e9dnou Pu\u0161kin\u016fv psac\u00ed st\u016fl, portr\u00e9ty Gon\u010darovov\u00e9 a expozici rukopisn\u00fdch faksimil\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vrcholem je psac\u00ed st\u016fl a portr\u00e9t Pu\u0161kinovy \u200b\u200bprvn\u00ed man\u017eelky Nat\u00e1lie, dojemn\u00e1 p\u0159ipom\u00ednka jejich milostn\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu. \u00dazk\u00e1 chodba vystavuje um\u011bleck\u00e9 p\u0159edm\u011bty z romantick\u00e9ho obdob\u00ed (\u0161\u00e1ly s motivem ohniv\u00e1ka, emp\u00edrov\u00e9 alt\u00e1ny), kter\u00e9 ilustruj\u00ed Pu\u0161kinovo prost\u0159ed\u00ed. P\u0159ilehl\u00e9 n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed (p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9 ze strany kostela) v\u00e1m umo\u017en\u00ed p\u0159edstavit si kroky svatebn\u00edho pr\u016fvodu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Pozn\u00e1mka k pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00ed:<\/em> St &amp; P\u00e1\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00; \u010ct 13:00\u201321:00 (Pokladna se zav\u00edr\u00e1 30 minut p\u0159edem). Vstupenky: ~250 rubl\u016f. Zdarma prvn\u00ed \u00fater\u00fd v m\u011bs\u00edci pro studenty.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muzeum Michaila Bulgakova (Bolshaya Sadovaya 10)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ve 20. a 30. letech 20. stolet\u00ed tento byt hostil Michaila Bulgakova a jeho \u017eenu. Je zachov\u00e1n, jako by Bulgakov pr\u00e1v\u011b ode\u0161el: na jeho star\u00e9m kuchy\u0148sk\u00e9m stole st\u00e1le le\u017e\u00ed slavn\u00e1 ply\u0161ov\u00e1 hra\u010dka \u201ekocour Behemot\u201c a na st\u011bn\u00e1ch jsou vybledl\u00e9 slogany zanechan\u00e9 fanou\u0161ky. Muzeum bylo otev\u0159eno v roce 2007 a je poutn\u00edm m\u00edstem pro <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> nad\u0161enci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Byt je st\u00edsn\u011bn\u00fd, s expon\u00e1ty v ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu: hudebn\u00ed m\u00edstnost s Bulagakovov\u00fdm klav\u00edrem, expozice jeho prvn\u00edch vyd\u00e1n\u00ed a replika \u010f\u00e1belsky \u010derven\u00e9 pohovky z rom\u00e1nu. Fas\u00e1da je pomalovan\u00e1 dojemn\u00fdmi kn\u00edry p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edmi Bulgakovovy fanou\u0161ky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba:<\/em> \u00dat\u2013St 12\u201319, \u010ct 14\u201321, P\u00e1\u2013Ne 12\u201319. Po zav\u0159eno. Prohl\u00eddky v angli\u010dtin\u011b se nekonaj\u00ed. Vstupenka ~360 RUB. Nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed metro: Majakovskaja.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muzeum Gogolova domu (Nikitsky Blvd 7A)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V tomto skromn\u00e9m barokn\u00edm s\u00eddle pro\u017eil Gogol posledn\u00ed l\u00e9ta sv\u00e9ho \u017eivota. Nyn\u00ed se v n\u011bm nach\u00e1z\u00ed mal\u00e9 pam\u011btn\u00ed muzeum soused\u00edc\u00ed s v\u011bdeckou knihovnou. Vchod z Nikitsk\u00e9 ulice vede do d\u0159ev\u011bnou pracovny s Gogolov\u00fdm psac\u00edm stolem a lucernou. Uvnit\u0159 vis\u00ed origin\u00e1l Gogolova portr\u00e9tu z poz\u016fstalosti. Muzejn\u00ed vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed zd\u016fraz\u0148uje p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh... <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> \u2013 krb je ozna\u010den\u00fd a po stran\u00e1ch m\u00edstnosti jsou busty \u010ci\u010dikova a Petru\u0161ky, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016fm p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed Gogolovy postavy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nedaleko ve vstupn\u00ed hale je legenda o incidentu sp\u00e1len\u00ed rukopisu z roku 1842: Gogol \u00fadajn\u011b sp\u00e1lil druh\u00fd svazek <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> Kur\u00e1tor \u010dasto recituje Gogolovu vlastn\u00ed elegii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba:<\/em> St\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00. Vstupenky ~200 RUB. (Zavolejte p\u0159edem; prohl\u00eddky jsou mal\u00e9, 10\u201315 osob.) Nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed metro: Majakovskaja\/Novinskij.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muzeum Cvetajevov\u00e9 (Borisoglebsky Per. 6)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Marina Cvetajevov\u00e1 zde \u017eila od roku 1914 do roku 1923. Mal\u00fd byt v Borisoglebsk\u00e9 uli\u010dce (mezi stanicemi metra Smolenskaja a Arbatskaja) se v roce 1990 stal dom\u00e1c\u00edm muzeem. A\u010dkoli je skromn\u00fd, obsahuje 45 000 p\u0159edm\u011bt\u016f: dopisy, rukopisy, fotografie Cvetajevov\u00e9 a jej\u00edho man\u017eela Sergeje Efrona. V ob\u00fdvac\u00edm pokoji je b\u00e1sn\u00ed\u0159\u010din st\u016fl; ve vitr\u00edn\u011b je vystaven origin\u00e1ln\u00ed z\u00e1pisn\u00edk s jej\u00edmi ru\u010dn\u011b psan\u00fdmi b\u00e1sn\u011bmi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ob\u010das se konaj\u00ed zvukov\u00e9 proch\u00e1zky, p\u0159i kter\u00fdch herec na n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed \u010dte Cvetajevovou. Expozice zd\u016fraz\u0148uj\u00ed jej\u00ed moskevsk\u00fd \u017eivot a tragick\u00fd n\u00e1vrat z exilu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba:<\/em> \u00dat 14\u201321; St\u2013Ne 11\u201319. Vstupn\u00e9 ~700 RUB. (Velmi obl\u00edben\u00e9 u rusk\u00fdch n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f \u2013 jd\u011bte brzy, abyste se vyhnuli dav\u016fm.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muzeum Gork\u00e9ho domu (Malaja Nikitskaja 6\/2)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tento d\u016fm, kdysi luxusn\u00ed s\u00eddlo Rjabu\u0161insk\u00e9ho, obsahuje Gork\u00e9ho pracovnu a rodinn\u00e9 pam\u00e1tky. \u017dlut\u00fd secesn\u00ed exteri\u00e9r a vitr\u00e1\u017eov\u00e9 logo \u201eP\u201c jsou fotogenick\u00e9. Uvnit\u0159 prohl\u00eddky vysv\u011btluj\u00ed Gork\u00e9ho revolu\u010dn\u00ed odchod z tohoto socialistick\u00e9ho salonu v roce 1913. Mezi nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed expon\u00e1ty pat\u0159\u00ed Chagallova \u201eAnna na \u010derven\u00e9m pol\u0161t\u00e1\u0159i\u201c s Gork\u00e9ho portr\u00e9tem a obrovsk\u00fd psac\u00ed st\u016fl, kter\u00fd pou\u017e\u00edval. V zahrad\u011b se nach\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1pis: Gork\u00e9ho slova z... <em>Matka<\/em>, vytesan\u00e9 k\u0159\u00eddou na cihle (p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9 p\u0159es zadn\u00ed n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Otev\u00edrac\u00ed doba:<\/em> St\u2013Ne 10:00\u201318:00; Po\u2013\u00dat zav\u0159eno. Vstupn\u00e9 ~150 RUB. Informace v angli\u010dtin\u011b jsou omezen\u00e9; cedule jsou p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b v ru\u0161tin\u011b.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Dal\u0161\u00ed muzea<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Muzeum Vladim\u00edra Majakovsk\u00e9ho (Bol\u0161aja Bronnaja 25):<\/strong> R\u016f\u017eov\u00fd d\u016fm, kde Majakovskij \u017eil v letech 1915\u201318. K vid\u011bn\u00ed je p\u016fdn\u00ed pracovna a jeho um\u011bleck\u00e1 d\u00edla.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Dostojevsk\u00e9ho muzeum (Kuzn\u011bck\u00fd most 5):<\/strong> Majest\u00e1tn\u00ed s\u00eddlo z 19. stolet\u00ed p\u0159em\u011bn\u011bn\u00e9 na muzeum, zam\u011b\u0159en\u00e9 na posledn\u00ed desetilet\u00ed Dostojevsk\u00e9ho v Moskv\u011b.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vstupenka do Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho muzea:<\/strong> Pokud je \u010dasu m\u00e1lo, zva\u017ete <em>Jednotn\u00e1 karta \u201eLiter\u00e1rn\u00ed srdce Moskvy\u201c<\/em> (spole\u010dn\u00e1 vstupenka na v\u00fdznamn\u00e1 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed m\u00edsta).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>V\u011bt\u0161ina muze\u00ed umo\u017e\u0148uje fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed bez blesku. Noste pohodlnou obuv (byty maj\u00ed \u010dasto mnoho mal\u00fdch schod\u016f). Klimatizace m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt slab\u00e1; ve\u010dern\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Bulagakovova bytu m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt hork\u00e1. Po\u0159i\u010fte si kombinovanou mapu trasy nebo si ji st\u00e1hn\u011bte z ofici\u00e1ln\u00edch turistick\u00fdch str\u00e1nek Moskvy, abyste se ujistili, \u017ee nep\u0159ehl\u00e9dnete \u017e\u00e1dnou malou plaketu.<\/p><cite>Praktick\u00e9 informace<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Profily autor\u016f \u2014 Spisovatel\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed utv\u00e1\u0159eli tuto krajinu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Po Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru se \u010dlov\u011bk vyd\u00e1v\u00e1 ve stop\u00e1ch liter\u00e1rn\u00edch velik\u00e1n\u016f. Stru\u010dn\u00e9 profily n\u00ed\u017ee poskytuj\u00ed kontext o autorech, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou s t\u011bmito m\u00edsty nejv\u00edce spjati. Jm\u00e9no ka\u017ed\u00e9ho spisovatele se objev\u00ed na plaket\u00e1ch nebo cedul\u00edch; pochopen\u00ed jejich moskevsk\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu obohat\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Alexandr Pu\u0161kin: Otec rusk\u00e9 literatury<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pu\u0161kin (1799\u20131837) je oslavov\u00e1n jako zakladatel modern\u00ed rusk\u00e9 literatury. A\u010dkoli se narodil v Petrohradu, velk\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st Pu\u0161kinova formativn\u00edho \u017eivota a odkazu se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 v Moskv\u011b. V letech 1830\u20131831 \u017eil v tomto byt\u011b na Arbatu (ul. Arbat 53). <em>\u201eNovoman\u017eel\u00e9 a zamilovan\u00ed\u201c<\/em> s Natali\u00ed Gon\u010darovou. Pu\u0161kin zde napsal m\u00e1lo, ale byt symbolizuje jeho dom\u00e1c\u00ed \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Napsal dopis z Moskvy p\u0159\u00edteli: \u201eJak sladk\u00e9 je sed\u011bt na lavi\u010dce pod jarn\u00edmi v\u011btvemi a poslouchat Natalii zp\u00edvat.\u201c Pu\u0161kinova vlastn\u00ed b\u00e1se\u0148 \u201ePodzimu\u201c byla dokonce naps\u00e1na v nedalek\u00e9 krajin\u011b. V literatu\u0159e vyl\u00ed\u010dil Moskvu s vtipem (jako v <em>Kapit\u00e1nova dcera<\/em>) a nostalgie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Moskevsk\u00e9 spojen\u00ed:<\/strong> V t\u011bchto ulic\u00edch se odehr\u00e1ly legend\u00e1rn\u00ed epizody Pu\u0161kinova \u017eivota: jeho bajka o souboji <em>P\u0159\u00edb\u011bh podplukovn\u00edka<\/em> zmi\u0148uje m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0161lechtu; nav\u0161t\u011bvoval arbatsk\u00fd chr\u00e1m kv\u016fli svatb\u00e1m; jeho p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9 Turgen\u011bv a \u017dukovskij po\u0159\u00e1dali sal\u00f3ny na Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici. Font\u00e1na Pulasti na bulv\u00e1ru byla obl\u00edben\u00fdm m\u00edstem k proch\u00e1zk\u00e1m a jej\u00ed voda \u00fadajn\u011b inspirovala <em>Ruslan and Ludmila<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nikolaj Gogol: Mistr grotesky<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nikolaj Gogol (1809\u20131852) na\u0161el Moskvu v m\u00faz\u011b i \u00fato\u010di\u0161ti. Gogol se narodil na Ukrajin\u011b a v\u011bt\u0161inu sv\u00e9ho dosp\u011bl\u00e9ho \u017eivota str\u00e1vil v Petrohradu, ale posledn\u00ed l\u00e9ta \u017eivota str\u00e1vil zde na Nikitsk\u00e9m bulv\u00e1ru. Gogol si Moskvu vybral pro jej\u00ed m\u00edrn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zimu ne\u017e petrohradsk\u00e1. Muzeum Gogolova domu uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 m\u00edstnost, kde horliv\u011b pracoval. <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gogolova d\u00edla \u010dasto karikuj\u00ed Moskvany: spole\u010densk\u00fd vzestup <em>Vl\u00e1dn\u00ed inspektor<\/em> byl inspirov\u00e1n ud\u00e1lost\u00ed v moskevsk\u00e9 m\u011bstsk\u00e9 spr\u00e1v\u011b (incident v Alexandrovsk\u00e9m pr\u016fjezdu) a nesmyslnou byrokraci\u00ed v <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> zam\u011b\u0159uje se na petrohradsk\u00e9 matri\u010dn\u00ed \u00fa\u0159ady, ale s prost\u0159ed\u00edm p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edm moskevsk\u00e9 hostince. V jeho pozdn\u00edch pov\u00eddk\u00e1ch se objevuje t\u00edha bujar\u00e9ho ve\u010d\u00edrkov\u00e9ho \u017eivota m\u011bsta (<em>Ve\u010der v Reynov\u011b hostinci<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Socha:<\/strong> Z\u00a0n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed sochy na Nikitsk\u00e9m bulv\u00e1ru se ohl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed Gogol\u016fv \u201estra\u0161ideln\u00fd pohled\u201c, jak ho popsal Dostojevskij. Za sv\u00e9ho \u017eivota se Gogol pln\u011b nez\u00edskal uzn\u00e1n\u00ed Moskvy; po sv\u00e9 smrti ve v\u011bku 42 let byl poh\u0159ben zde v\u00a0Nevjansku. P\u0159\u00edb\u011bh o\u00a0tom, jak v\u00a0tomto dom\u011b p\u00e1lil rukopisy, je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed tradice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Michail Bulgakov: Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed rebel sov\u011btsk\u00e9 Moskvy<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Michail Bulgakov (1891\u20131940) propojil sov\u011btskou realitu a fantastickou komedii. Jeho nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed rom\u00e1n, <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em>, se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 na pozad\u00ed stalinsk\u00e9ho teroru 30. let. Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky jsou doslova jeho prvn\u00ed sc\u00e9nou, kter\u00e1 zv\u011b\u010d\u0148uje tento kout Moskvy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bulgakov \u017eil a pracoval v t\u00e9to \u010dtvrti \u2013 nejprve v Tversk\u00e9 \u010dtvrti (Tverskaja 9) a pozd\u011bji na Bol\u0161aja Sadov\u00e1ja 10 (dne\u0161n\u00ed muzeum). Bojoval s cenzurou: Stalinovi kulturn\u00ed komisa\u0159i jeho hry zak\u00e1zali a on s\u00e1m proslul t\u00edm, \u017ee sp\u00e1lil prvn\u00ed verzi... <em>Mu\u010dednice Zoja<\/em> v hn\u011bvu. P\u0159esto posouval hranice t\u00edm, \u017ee ve sv\u00e9m rom\u00e1nu um\u00edstil \u010f\u00e1bla (Wolanda) do satirick\u00e9ho divadla na Pu\u0161kinov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Moskva v <em>M&amp;M<\/em>:<\/strong> Bulgakov za\u0159adil rusk\u00e9 spisovatele jako Vladimir Majakovskij a Mirjam (a satirick\u00e9 portr\u00e9ty sov\u011btsk\u00fdch liter\u00e1rn\u00edch velik\u00e1n\u016f) do <em>M&amp;M<\/em>, kter\u00e9 propojuj\u00ed fiktivn\u00ed ud\u00e1losti se skute\u010dn\u00fdmi ulicemi. Dnes pam\u011btn\u00ed desky na Patriarchov\u011b rybn\u00edku ozna\u010duj\u00ed sc\u00e9ny: na vod\u00e1rensk\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ei se st\u00e1le nach\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1pis s motivem tramvaje \u201eNemluvte s ciz\u00edmi lidmi\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Marina Cvetaeva: Tragick\u00e1 cesta emigrantsk\u00e9ho b\u00e1sn\u00edka<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Marina Cv\u011btajevov\u00e1 (1892\u20131941), b\u00e1sn\u00ed\u0159ka st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9ho v\u011bku, \u017eila v Moskv\u011b s p\u0159est\u00e1vkami od d\u011btstv\u00ed a\u017e do revoluce. V letech 1914\u20131923 \u017eila v Borisoglebsk\u00e9m byt\u011b v Borisoglebsk\u00e9 uli\u010dce (dom\u011b-muzeum). Psala zde v\u00e1\u0161niv\u00e9 b\u00e1sn\u011b oslavuj\u00edc\u00ed intimn\u00ed z\u00e1kout\u00ed Moskvy, ale pozd\u011bji ode\u0161la do Prahy a Berl\u00edna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cvetajevov\u00e9 ver\u0161e zobrazuj\u00ed zn\u011blky moskevsk\u00fdch tramvaj\u00ed a noci na bulv\u00e1ru; jedna b\u00e1se\u0148 s n\u00e1zvem \u201ePosledn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st na\u0161\u00ed cesty\u201c truchl\u00ed nad koncem moskevsk\u00e9ho l\u00e9ta. Po n\u00e1vratu v roce 1939 na\u0161la m\u011bsto i liter\u00e1rn\u00ed \u017eivot velmi zm\u011bn\u011bn\u00e9 a v roce 1941 tragicky zem\u0159ela. Muzeum obsahuje jej\u00ed rukopisy a stra\u0161idelnou nahr\u00e1vku jej\u00edho hlasu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed pozn\u00e1mka:<\/strong> Cvetajevov\u00e1 se p\u0159\u00e1telila s Rainerem Mariou Rilkem a p\u0159ekl\u00e1dala <em>Anna Karenina<\/em> do francouz\u0161tiny. Proslula t\u00edm, \u017ee napsala: <em>\u201eMoskva je m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 nen\u00ed Moskva\u201c<\/em>, co\u017e nazna\u010duje jeho hlubokou p\u0159\u00edtomnost v jej\u00ed poezii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Dal\u0161\u00ed auto\u0159i Bulv\u00e1ru<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Leonid Andrejev:<\/strong> Symbolista, kter\u00fd psal divadeln\u00ed hry pod lipami v Tversk\u00e9 ulici. Jeho socha stoj\u00ed pobl\u00ed\u017e Turgen\u011bvovy lavi\u010dky na Tversk\u00e9 ulici.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vladimir Majakovskij:<\/strong> Futuristick\u00fd b\u00e1sn\u00edk \u017eil na adrese Bolshaya Bronnaya 25. Proch\u00e1zel se bulv\u00e1rem cestou do divadla Proletkult a s energi\u00ed m\u011bsta utv\u00e1\u0159el revolu\u010dn\u00ed ver\u0161e. Jeho p\u011btimetrov\u00e1 busta stoj\u00ed na Bolshaya Bronnaya (mimo hlavn\u00ed trasu).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Maxim Gorkij:<\/strong> Ji\u017e zm\u00edn\u011bno; vyr\u016fstal ve m\u011bst\u011b v 60. letech 19. stolet\u00ed a pozd\u011bji podporoval sov\u011btskou literaturu. Jeho d\u016fm na Bol\u0161aje Nikitsk\u00e9 je muzeum.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Na ka\u017ed\u00e9 zast\u00e1vce na bulv\u00e1ru je pam\u011btn\u00ed deska se jm\u00e9nem a \u017eivotopisem spisovatele a \u010dasto i s cit\u00e1tem. \u010cten\u00ed t\u011bchto desek na m\u00edst\u011b p\u0159eklenuje propast mezi histori\u00ed a ulic\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed pozn\u00e1mka:<\/strong> Moskevsk\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed osobnosti se \u010dasto vydaly stejnou cestou, jakou m\u00ed\u0159\u00edme my. Kdy\u017e se Bulgakov\u016fv Woland setk\u00e1v\u00e1 s Berliozem, cituje Pu\u0161kin\u016fv epitaf (\u201eMiloval jsem t\u011b\u201c). Viktor \u017dirmunsky poznamenal, \u017ee moskevsk\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry jsou <em>\u201eM\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed krajiny\u201c<\/em> v rusk\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed pam\u011bti \u2013 kr\u00e1sn\u00e9, a p\u0159esto pln\u00e9 st\u00edn\u016f minul\u00fdch b\u00e1sn\u00edk\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed prost\u0159ed\u00ed \u2014 Kde se fikce setk\u00e1v\u00e1 s realitou<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jednou z v\u00fdhod Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru je vyhled\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed skute\u010dn\u00fdch m\u00edst, kter\u00e1 inspirovala literaturu nebo se v n\u00ed objevuj\u00ed. N\u00ed\u017ee uv\u00e1d\u00edme kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edklady, kde si \u010dten\u00e1\u0159i mohou znovu pro\u017e\u00edt slavn\u00e9 sc\u00e9ny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Mistr a Margarita (Michail Bulgakov, 1940):<\/strong> Jak ji\u017e bylo zm\u00edn\u011bno, rom\u00e1n za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 \u010f\u00e1blem promlouvaj\u00edc\u00edm z lavi\u010dky u Patriarchova rybn\u00edka. N\u00e1pis na cihlov\u00e9 vod\u00e1rensk\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ei u rybn\u00edka \u2013 \u201eNemluvte s ciz\u00edmi lidmi\u201c \u2013 je skute\u010dn\u00fdm znamen\u00edm, \u017ee Bulgakov do p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu vpletl tento text. P\u0159i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b rybn\u00edka se \u010dlov\u011bk okam\u017eit\u011b ocitne na za\u010d\u00e1tku Wolandova surrealistick\u00e9ho dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed. (V knize Woland pozd\u011bji sed\u00ed na jevi\u0161ti Jermolovova divadla na Tversk\u00e9 ulici, kolem kter\u00e9ho na t\u00e9to trase projdete d\u0159\u00edve.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Anna Karenina (Lev Tolstoj, 1878):<\/strong> A\u010dkoli se velk\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st Tolst\u00e9ho rom\u00e1nu odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 v Petrohradu, existuje i n\u011bkolik moskevsk\u00fdch epizod. D\u016fm Annina bratra Oblonsk\u00e9ho se \u00fadajn\u011b nach\u00e1zel pobl\u00ed\u017e Kremlu (ne na na\u0161\u00ed proch\u00e1zce), ale Kitty a Anna se proch\u00e1zej\u00ed po butic\u00edch na Tversk\u00e9 ulici, proto\u017ee Tolst\u00e9ho text zmi\u0148uje \u201enov\u00fd bulv\u00e1r\u201c. V t\u00e9to \u010dtvrti se kon\u00e1 \u0160\u010derbatsk\u00e9ho ples v Moskv\u011b (nyn\u00ed budova Muzea revoluce na Gogolevsk\u00e9m bulv\u00e1ru, kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 odbo\u010dka). Atmosf\u00e9ra Tversk\u00e9 ulice jako m\u00edsta poku\u0161en\u00ed a drb\u016f je hmatateln\u00e1.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e (Nikolaj Gogol, 1842):<\/strong> \u010ci\u010dikovova satirick\u00e1 cesta vede provin\u010dn\u00edm Ruskem, ale Gogol n\u011bkter\u00e9 sc\u00e9ny um\u00edstil na moskevsk\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry. Po sc\u00e9n\u00e1ch z Petrohradu a Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017ee \u010ci\u010dikov p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed do Moskvy za obchodem. Ve 4. kapitole se proch\u00e1z\u00ed po \u201ebulv\u00e1ru\u201c s Pon\u010dikovem (petrohradsk\u00fdm \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edkem); lze si to p\u0159edstavit jako proch\u00e1zku po Tversk\u00e9 ulici nebo Bulv\u00e1rn\u00edm okruhu. Ponur\u00e9 n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed Gogolovy sochy nab\u00edz\u00ed vhodnou atmosf\u00e9ru pro melancholick\u00fd t\u00f3n rom\u00e1nu.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vojna a m\u00edr (Lev Tolstoj, 1869):<\/strong> Tolst\u00e9ho epos se zam\u011b\u0159uje na Moskvu jako spole\u010densk\u00e9 centrum, zejm\u00e9na ve t\u0159et\u00edm d\u00edle, kdy se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed Napoleon. Zat\u00edmco v\u011bt\u0161ina d\u011bje se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 mimo Bulv\u00e1rn\u00ed okruh, Tolst\u00e9ho popis Nata\u0161e tan\u010d\u00edc\u00ed na Jermolovov\u011b plese (pobl\u00ed\u017e dne\u0161n\u00ed Bol\u0161aje Nikitsk\u00e9) se k t\u00e9to oblasti vztahuje. \u010clov\u011bk se m\u016f\u017ee postavit pobl\u00ed\u017e sochy Jermolovov\u00e9 (na Tversk\u00e9 ulici) a p\u0159edstavit si val\u010d\u00edk Nata\u0161e Rostovov\u00e9.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vi\u0161\u0148ov\u00fd sad (Anton \u010cechov, 1904):<\/strong> A\u010dkoli se sc\u00e9na odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b na venkov\u011b, Ran\u011bvsk\u00e1 vzpom\u00edn\u00e1 na moskevsk\u00fd \u0159adov\u00fd d\u016fm sv\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e9ho. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci n\u011bkdy zmi\u0148uj\u00ed pocit ztracen\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed star\u00e9ho Arbatu, vzhledem k jeho mnoha p\u0159edrevolu\u010dn\u00edm budov\u00e1m.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Hrdina na\u0161\u00ed doby (Michail Lermontov):<\/strong> Tato kapitola rom\u00e1nu se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 v moskevsk\u00fdch hostinc\u00edch; zat\u00edmco Lermontov je sp\u00ed\u0161e petrohradsk\u00fd, hostince na bulv\u00e1ru by mohly b\u00fdt vn\u00edm\u00e1ny jako paralely. Popis hlu\u010dn\u00e9 restaurace u bulv\u00e1ru v rom\u00e1nu p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 star\u0161\u00ed kav\u00e1rny na Nikitsk\u00e9 ulici.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pr\u016fvodci \u010dasto upozor\u0148uj\u00ed na <em>tax\u00edky<\/em> a <em>tramvaje<\/em> u Patriarch\u016f, kter\u00e9 se objevuj\u00ed v rom\u00e1nech: <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em>Slavn\u00fd satansk\u00fd taxik\u00e1\u0159 (kapitola o Petrohradu) se odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed ve front\u011b tax\u00edk\u016f, kterou vid\u00edte severn\u011b od rybn\u00edk\u016f. Tak\u00e9 pobl\u00ed\u017e n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed lze st\u00e1le zahl\u00e9dnout tramvajov\u00e9 koleje z 30. let 20. stolet\u00ed, kter\u00e9 kr\u00e1tce krou\u017eily kolem rybn\u00edka (pro dobrou chu\u0165 M&amp;M's).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>Vezm\u011bte si s sebou kapesn\u00ed v\u00fdtisk Mistra a Mark\u00e9tky nebo Mrtv\u00fdch du\u0161\u00ed. Mnoho \u010dten\u00e1\u0159\u016f shled\u00e1v\u00e1 vzru\u0161uj\u00edc\u00edm \u010d\u00edst si relevantn\u00ed pas\u00e1\u017ee p\u0159\u00edmo na m\u00edst\u011b. Na Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edc\u00edch je obl\u00edbenou knihou Wolandovo setk\u00e1n\u00ed s Berliozem; v Gogolov\u011b dom\u011b zn\u011bj\u00ed str\u00e1nky popisuj\u00edc\u00ed \u010ci\u010dikovovy my\u0161lenky o moskevsk\u00fdch statk\u00e1\u0159\u00edch a\u017e zlov\u011bstn\u011b bezprost\u0159edn\u011b.<\/p><cite>Tip od zasv\u011bcen\u00fdch osob<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Praktick\u00e9 pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00ed \u2013 v\u0161e, co pot\u0159ebujete pro svou n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Jak se tam dostat: Tipy pro metro a p\u011b\u0161ky<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>P\u0159\u00edstup k metru:<\/strong> Mezi kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 stanice v bl\u00edzkosti trasy pat\u0159\u00ed Tverskaja\/Pu\u0161kinskaja (Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed), \u010cechovskaja, Arbatskaja\/Smolenskaja (Arbat) a Majakovskaja (Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky). V\u011bt\u0161ina z nich vystupuje bl\u00edzko v\u00fdchoz\u00edch bod\u016f. Moskevsk\u00e9 metro je efektivn\u00ed a dob\u0159e zna\u010den\u00e9 v angli\u010dtin\u011b.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Ch\u016fze:<\/strong> Trasa je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 cel\u00e1 vhodn\u00e1 pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed. Ulice jsou dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00e9; mnoho bulv\u00e1r\u016f m\u00e1 \u0161irok\u00e9 chodn\u00edky. P\u0159ech\u00e1zejte opatrn\u011b (n\u011bkter\u00e9 odbo\u010dky zahrnuj\u00ed ru\u0161n\u00e9 k\u0159i\u017eovatky, nap\u0159. Tverskaja\u2013Nikitskaja). Stoup\u00e1n\u00ed a kles\u00e1n\u00ed po\u010d\u00edtejte pouze p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu ze stanic metra (Pu\u0161kinskaja m\u00e1 dlouh\u00fd eskal\u00e1tor). Mezi skupinami lid\u00ed si napl\u00e1nujte ch\u016fzi ~1\u20132 km (nap\u0159. z Pu\u0161kinova n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed na konec Arbatu ~2 km).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Itiner\u00e1\u0159e:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>P\u016fldenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet:<\/em> Pu\u0161kinovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed \u2192 Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (stanice Jesenin) \u2192 Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r (Gogol\u016fv d\u016fm) \u2192 odbo\u010dte na jih na Star\u00fd Arbat (Pu\u0161kin\u016fv byt, Okud\u017eava) \u2192 Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky. (Asi 4 km ch\u016fze, 4 hodiny v\u010detn\u011b jednoho muzea.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet:<\/em> Jak je uvedeno v\u00fd\u0161e + n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy v\u0161ech otev\u0159en\u00fdch muze\u00ed (vy\u017eaduje 6-8 hodin) nebo rozd\u011blen\u00ed do dvou dn\u016f.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Dvoudenn\u00ed hloubkov\u00fd ponor:<\/em> Prvn\u00ed den zahrnuje Tverskou\/Nikitskou \u010dtvr\u0165; druh\u00fd den Arbat\/Patriarch\u016fv pal\u00e1c s mo\u017enost\u00ed prohl\u00eddek muze\u00ed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Mo\u017enosti prohl\u00eddky s pr\u016fvodcem vs. prohl\u00eddka bez pr\u016fvodce<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Prohl\u00eddky s pr\u016fvodcem:<\/strong> N\u011bkolik m\u00edstn\u00edch spole\u010dnost\u00ed nab\u00edz\u00ed prohl\u00eddky \u201eLiter\u00e1rn\u00ed Moskvy\u201c (k dispozici jsou tak\u00e9 bezplatn\u00e9 p\u011b\u0161\u00ed prohl\u00eddky na z\u00e1klad\u011b dar\u016f). Pr\u016fvodci \u010dasto mluv\u00ed anglicky a sd\u00edlej\u00ed historky. To m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt efektivn\u00ed pro nabit\u00e9 programy. Ceny se pohybuj\u00ed v rozmez\u00ed 20\u201350 dolar\u016f nebo se u skupinov\u00fdch prohl\u00eddek plat\u00ed spropitn\u00e9. Pro velk\u00e9 skupiny nebo prohl\u00eddky s konkr\u00e9tn\u011b jazykem doporu\u010dujeme rezervaci p\u0159edem.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Samostatn\u011b veden\u00e9:<\/strong> Pro flexibiln\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek pou\u017eijte tohoto pr\u016fvodce s podrobnou mapou nebo GPS. Audiopr\u016fvodce (nap\u0159. aplikace izi.TRAVEL) maj\u00ed u ka\u017ed\u00e9 pam\u00e1tky bezplatn\u00fd koment\u00e1\u0159, a\u010dkoli se jejich pokryt\u00ed li\u0161\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Aplikace a mapy:<\/strong> Body trasy lze importovat z Google Maps, Yandex Maps nebo lok\u00e1ln\u00edch aplikac\u00ed. Je vhodn\u00e9 m\u00edt offline mapu (st\u00e1hnout si ji p\u0159edem), proto\u017ee n\u011bkter\u00e9 str\u00e1nky maj\u00ed nepravideln\u00fd sign\u00e1l.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">P\u0159\u00edstupnost a probl\u00e9my s n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Mobilita:<\/strong> V\u011bt\u0161ina trasy je rovinat\u00e1. N\u011bkter\u00e9 star\u00e9 budovy (nap\u0159\u00edklad Pu\u0161kin\u016fv byt) v\u0161ak maj\u00ed schody a nemaj\u00ed v\u00fdtahy. Bezbari\u00e9rov\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup je ve star\u0161\u00edch muze\u00edch omezen\u00fd. Samotn\u00e9 promen\u00e1dy na bulv\u00e1ru jsou pln\u011b p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Jazyk:<\/strong> Informace v muze\u00edch jsou v\u011bt\u0161inou rusk\u00e9, ale velk\u00e1 m\u00edsta maj\u00ed alespo\u0148 anglick\u00e9 titulky nebo audiopr\u016fvodce. Pro detailn\u00ed informace si noste konverza\u010dn\u00ed slovn\u00edk nebo p\u0159ekladatelskou aplikaci. Mnoho prodejc\u016f a mlad\u0161\u00edch zam\u011bstnanc\u016f mluv\u00ed z\u00e1kladn\u00ed angli\u010dtinou.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Davy:<\/strong> B\u011bhem hlavn\u00ed turistick\u00e9 sez\u00f3ny a letn\u00edch odpoledne je hust\u00fd pohyb lid\u00ed, zejm\u00e9na na Arbatu a Pu\u0161kinov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Dopoledne v polovin\u011b t\u00fddne jsou klidn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. V muze\u00edch se mohou tvo\u0159it fronty; rezervujte si online vstupenky na \u010dasovan\u00fd \u010das pro Pu\u0161kina, Bulgakova atd.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bezpe\u010dnost:<\/strong> Oblast je obecn\u011b velmi bezpe\u010dn\u00e1. Standardn\u00ed bezpe\u010dnostn\u00ed opat\u0159en\u00ed po setm\u011bn\u00ed (dr\u017ete se osv\u011btlen\u00fdch m\u00edst). Pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011blci se mohou pt\u00e1t na spropitn\u00e9; vyu\u017eijte licencovan\u00e9 pr\u016fvodce. Pokud jste na n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b v zim\u011b, dejte si pozor na n\u00e1led\u00ed na bulv\u00e1rech.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Tipy pro fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed a nejlep\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed:<\/strong> Um\u00edst\u011bte Pu\u0161kinovu sochu mimo st\u0159ed, aby do n\u00ed v kontrastu zapadla azalka na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed nebo siluety modern\u00edch mrakodrap\u016f za n\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Tverskoj a Nikitsk\u00fd:<\/strong> Z\u00e1b\u011bry \u0161irok\u00e9 t\u0159\u00eddy z konc\u016f vypadaj\u00ed dob\u0159e. Jeseninova socha vypad\u00e1 nejl\u00e9pe s Gork\u00e9ho divadlem v pozad\u00ed za svitu zlat\u00e9 hodiny. Gogolova socha je malebn\u00e1 v rann\u00edm st\u00ednu, kdy\u017e na dvo\u0159e nikdo jin\u00fd nen\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Star\u00fd Arbat:<\/strong> Zachy\u0165te ulici ustupuj\u00edc\u00ed mezi star\u00fdmi budovami. Socha Okud\u017eavy vypad\u00e1 nejl\u00e9pe se z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed z\u00e1padu slunce na sv\u00e9m kovov\u00e9m povrchu.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky:<\/strong> Pro zachycen\u00ed klasick\u00fdch zimn\u00edch sc\u00e9n po\u0159i\u010fte pozdn\u00ed odpoledne, abyste zachytili brusl\u00edc\u00ed lidi. V l\u00e9t\u011b je dlouh\u00e1 expozice sv\u011btel font\u00e1ny p\u016fsobiv\u00e1. (D\u00e1vejte pozor na ukazatele, abyste do z\u00e1b\u011bru mohli zahrnout i ceduli \u201eMistr a Mark\u00e9tka\u201c.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u00davahy o po\u010das\u00ed podle ro\u010dn\u00edho obdob\u00ed<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Jaro:<\/strong> Konec kv\u011btna a\u017e \u010derven je ide\u00e1ln\u00ed; stromy na bulv\u00e1ru v listech, p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch 15\u201320 \u00b0C. (T\u0159e\u0161\u0148ov\u00e9 kv\u011bty kvetou brzy na ja\u0159e, ale v carsk\u00e9 Moskv\u011b ji\u017e t\u0159e\u0161\u0148ov\u00e9 sady na bulv\u00e1ru neexistuj\u00ed.) M\u016f\u017ee pr\u0161et, proto si sbalte lehkou bundu.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Letn\u00ed:<\/strong> Teplo (25\u201330 \u00b0C) s ob\u010dasn\u00fdmi bou\u0159kami. Na ch\u016fzi si vezm\u011bte vodu a na exponovan\u00e1 m\u00edsta opalovac\u00ed kr\u00e9m.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Podzim:<\/strong> Z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed a\u017e za\u010d\u00e1tek listopadu m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt slune\u010dn\u00fd a chladn\u00fd (10\u201315 \u00b0C). Listy se zbarvuj\u00ed do zlato\u010dervena \u2013 vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed tak n\u00e1dhernou kulisu pro pam\u00e1tky. Koncem \u0159\u00edjna (kdy\u017e d\u00e9\u0161\u0165) se hod\u00ed slune\u010dn\u00edky.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Zima:<\/strong> Chladno (\u20135 a\u017e \u201315 \u00b0C). Bulv\u00e1ry jsou \u010dasto vyklizen\u00e9, ale pou\u017e\u00edvejte boty s dobrou p\u0159ilnavost\u00ed. N\u011bkter\u00e9 pouli\u010dn\u00ed font\u00e1ny jsou vypnut\u00e9. Muzea z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed otev\u0159en\u00e1 (a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 pr\u00e1zdn\u00e1, co\u017e je v\u00fdhoda), ale oble\u010dte se ve vrstv\u00e1ch a omezte \u010das str\u00e1ven\u00fd u venkovn\u00edch soch. Kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 denn\u00ed sv\u011btlo znamen\u00e1, \u017ee s focen\u00edm za\u010dn\u011bte brzy.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p>Od ledna 2026 jsou Bulgakovovo muzeum a Pu\u0161kin\u016fv byt ob\u010das z d\u016fvodu \u00fadr\u017eby uzav\u0159eny (data se dozv\u00edte na informa\u010dn\u00edch pultech nebo na webov\u00fdch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch). Sez\u00f3nn\u00ed festivaly (nap\u0159\u00edklad v \u0159\u00edjnu oslava Gogolov\u00fdch narozenin) n\u011bkdy nab\u00edzej\u00ed bezplatn\u00e9 akce; pod\u00edvejte se na kulturn\u00ed kalend\u00e1\u0159e m\u011bsta.<\/p><cite>Pl\u00e1novac\u00ed pozn\u00e1mka<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Kde se naj\u00edst a nap\u00edt \u2014 Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed kav\u00e1rny a restaurace<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Po dlouh\u00fdch proch\u00e1zk\u00e1ch mezi knihami a sochami si \u010dlov\u011bk bude cht\u00edt vychutnat moskevskou kuchyni s liter\u00e1rn\u00edm n\u00e1dechem. Mnoho restaurac\u00ed v okol\u00ed Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru m\u00e1 historick\u00fd nebo kulturn\u00ed v\u00fdznam. Zde jsou vybran\u00e1 m\u00edsta podle lokality:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Kolem Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9ho n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Kav\u00e1rna Caricyno:<\/em> Tato elegantn\u00ed modern\u00ed kav\u00e1rna, kousek od Pu\u0161kinova n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v honosn\u00e9m s\u00eddle s Pu\u0161kinovou tematikou a nab\u00edz\u00ed ruskou klasiku (pelmeni, bliny). (Nem\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmou liter\u00e1rn\u00ed vazbu krom\u011b atmosf\u00e9ry, ale je obl\u00edben\u00e1 u intelektu\u00e1ln\u00edch kruh\u016f.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Restaurace Gorodskoj<\/em>V uli\u010dce Strastnoj (u n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed), okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed podnik s Pu\u0161kinov\u00fdmi cit\u00e1ty na st\u011bn\u00e1ch. Pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed zakusk\u00e9 m\u00edsy (tradi\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159edkrmy) a maj\u00ed reg\u00e1l s klasick\u00fdmi pokrmy.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Tversk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Kav\u00e1rna Gogolova muzea (Tverskaja 23):<\/em> Mo\u017enost zasv\u011bcen\u00ed v Gogolov\u011b dom\u011b, kde pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed \u010dajov\u00e9 ob\u010derstven\u00ed ze sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9ry \u2013 vyzkou\u0161ejte jejich sendvi\u010de z \u017eitn\u00e9ho chleba (obl\u00edben\u00e9 Gogolovo j\u00eddlo).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>B\u0159\u00edza (Lesn\u00ed uli\u010dka):<\/em> Rustik\u00e1ln\u00ed restaurace p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed Gogolovu dobu (oblo\u017een\u00ed d\u0159evem, menu z b\u0159ezov\u00e9 k\u016fry). Specialita: bor\u0161\u010d v \u010dern\u00e9m chlebu (odkaz na Gogolovu l\u00e1sku k ukrajinsk\u00e9mu j\u00eddlu).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Star\u00fd Arbat:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Gogol a Jdi:<\/em> Neform\u00e1ln\u00ed \u0159et\u011bzec st\u00e1nk\u016f na Arbatu 43, kde se pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed pala\u010dinky (bliny) pojmenovan\u00e9 podle liter\u00e1rn\u00edch v\u00fdraz\u016f (nap\u0159. \u201ePu\u0161kinova pala\u010dinka\u201c). Ide\u00e1ln\u00ed pro rychl\u00e9 ob\u010derstven\u00ed p\u0159i prohl\u00ed\u017een\u00ed obchod\u016f se suven\u00fdry.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Kav\u00e1rna Savva:<\/em> Na Arbatu 4 je starosv\u011btsk\u00e1 kav\u00e1rna s vitr\u00e1\u017eemi \u2013 nav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u00e1 b\u00e1sn\u00edky b\u011bhem st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9ho v\u011bku. (Nejsem si jist\u00fd, jestli tu Gustave Flaubert kou\u0159il, ale atmosf\u00e9ra je jako z 19. stolet\u00ed.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Restaurace Sv\u011btlitsky:<\/em> Tradi\u010dn\u00ed rusk\u00e1 j\u00eddla v s\u00eddle (Arbat 15). V\u00fdzdoba zahrnuje fotografie liter\u00e1rn\u00edch kruh\u016f 20. let 20. stolet\u00ed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>V bl\u00edzkosti Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edk\u016f:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Kry\u0161a Mira (St\u0159echa sv\u011bta):<\/em> V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e1 restaurace blok na sever s panoramatick\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na m\u011bsto a pan-asijsk\u00fdm menu. M\u00edstn\u00ed si d\u011blaj\u00ed legraci, \u017ee Margarita si tam naho\u0159e mohla d\u00e1t sushi.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Vareni\u010dn\u00e1 \u010d. 1:<\/em> Sov\u011btsk\u00e1 retro restaurace 2 minuty od rybn\u00edk\u016f (na ulici Povarskaja), obl\u00edben\u00e1 pro pelmen\u011b a k\u00e1vu pod\u00e1vanou v plechov\u00fdch hrnc\u00edch stejn\u011b jako v 80. letech.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Mo\u017enosti rozpo\u010dtu:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>St\u00e1nky s pouli\u010dn\u00edm j\u00eddlem (tzv. <em>gastrolap\u0161ina<\/em>) u metra Majakovskaja prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed levn\u00e9 gyros a uzvar (bobulov\u00fd kompot).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Tabulka<\/em> (kant\u00fdna): nap\u0159. Stolovaja \u010d. 13 pobl\u00ed\u017e Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 nab\u00edz\u00ed vydatn\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky a sal\u00e1ty za p\u00e1r set rubl\u016f \u2013 rychl\u00e1 ochutn\u00e1vka ka\u017edodenn\u00edho Ruska.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">V\u0161echny ceny v t\u011bchto oblastech se pohybuj\u00ed ve st\u0159edn\u00edm cenov\u00e9m rozp\u011bt\u00ed; spropitn\u00e9 je obvykle ~10 %. Nen\u00ed t\u0159eba mluvit rusky \u2013 v turistick\u00fdch z\u00f3n\u00e1ch maj\u00ed menu \u010dasto anglick\u00e9 nebo obr\u00e1zkov\u00e9 menu. Sn\u00edda\u0148ov\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny na Arbatu (nap\u0159\u00edklad \u201eCoffee Bean\u201c nebo \u201eSkuratov\u201c) jsou dobr\u00fdm m\u00edstem pro zah\u00e1jen\u00ed dne \u010dajem s liter\u00e1rn\u00ed tematikou nebo latte artem ve stylu \u201eBronzov\u00fd jezdec\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote has-medium-font-size\"><blockquote><p><br>Moskevsk\u00fd profesor literatury navrhuje spojit kuchyni s obsahem: \u201eJezte vareniki (knedl\u00edky) pobl\u00ed\u017e Gogolovy sochy s odkazem na Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e a pop\u00edjejte \u010daj u Pu\u0161kinova stolu na Arbatu, stejn\u011b jako by to d\u011blal v roce 1831\u201c (s v\u011bdouc\u00edm \u00fasm\u011bvem).<\/p><cite>M\u00edstn\u00ed perspektiva<br><\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Roz\u0161i\u0159te si sv\u016fj liter\u00e1rn\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek z Moskvy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pokud Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r ve v\u00e1s vzbud\u00ed chu\u0165 na dal\u0161\u00ed liter\u00e1rn\u00ed d\u011bdictv\u00ed, tato roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed v\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce pono\u0159\u00ed do kni\u017en\u00ed minulosti Ruska:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Tre\u0165jakovsk\u00e1 galerie (Lavru\u0161inskij per.):<\/strong> Krom\u011b obraz\u016f zde najdete portr\u00e9tn\u00ed galerii spisovatel\u016f a inteligence. Nen\u00ed sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed p\u011b\u0161\u00ed trasy, ale je vzd\u00e1len\u00e1 dv\u011b stanice metra ji\u017en\u011b.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Novod\u011bvi\u010d\u00ed h\u0159bitov:<\/strong> Kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 j\u00edzda metrem (Sportivnaja) k hrob\u016fm \u010cechova, Gogola, Majakovsk\u00e9ho, Mandel\u0161tama a mnoha dal\u0161\u00edch autor\u016f. Klidn\u00e9 uli\u010dky u kl\u00e1\u0161tera jsou liter\u00e1rn\u00edm pam\u00e1tn\u00edkem v\u0161ech svat\u00fdch.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Za Moskvou:<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Yasnaya Polyana (Tolst\u00e9ho poz\u016fstalost):<\/em> Tolst\u00e9ho domov, vzd\u00e1len\u00fd 200 km vlakem na jih, je dokonal\u00fdm liter\u00e1rn\u00edm poutn\u00edm m\u00edstem \u2013 m\u00edstem, kde <em>V\u00e1lka a m\u00edr<\/em> byla naps\u00e1na. Venkovsk\u00e9 s\u00eddlo a zahrady z 19. stolet\u00ed nab\u00edzej\u00ed prohl\u00eddky s pr\u016fvodcem. Napl\u00e1nujte si jednodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet (Rusk\u00e9 dr\u00e1hy provozuj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9 vlaky).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Abramovo (Turgen\u011bv\u016fv statek):<\/em> V Tversk\u00e9 oblasti se nach\u00e1z\u00ed Jeseninova d\u011btsk\u00e1 rezidence \u2013 shluk d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch chatr\u010d\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsou dnes muzeem. (Jeseninova okru\u017en\u00ed bulv\u00e1r pobl\u00ed\u017e Bulv\u00e1rn\u00edho okruhu nese jeho jm\u00e9no, jak ji\u017e bylo zm\u00edn\u011bno, ale skute\u010dn\u00fd d\u016fm, kde pro\u017eil d\u011btstv\u00ed, se nach\u00e1z\u00ed za Moskvou.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed akce:<\/strong> Pod\u00edvejte se na kalend\u00e1\u0159 Moskevsk\u00e9ho liter\u00e1rn\u00edho festivalu (sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u00edch akc\u00ed v kv\u011btnu a \u010dervnu jsou \u010dasto \u010dten\u00ed na Bulv\u00e1ru). Bibliofily l\u00e1kaj\u00ed i kni\u017en\u00ed veletrhy na Kuzn\u011bck\u00e9m most\u011b nebo na Patriarchov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Knihkupectv\u00ed:<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Dom knihy (D\u016fm knihy):<\/em> Kultovn\u00ed obchod na Nov\u00e9m Arbatu (Pu\u0161kinovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed) s miliony titul\u016f. \u201ePu\u0161kinova kav\u00e1rna\u201c v pat\u0159e je r\u00e1jem pro milovn\u00edky literatury.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Knihkupectv\u00ed \u010cechov:<\/em> Nedaleko Patriarch's, zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho pro zahrani\u010dn\u00ed literaturu a anglick\u00e1 vyd\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>St\u00e1nky se staro\u017eitnostmi na Arbatu:<\/em> Na samotn\u00e9 ulici prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed antikvari\u00e1ty vyd\u00e1n\u00ed ze sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9ry v potrhan\u00fdch obalech \u2013 z\u00e1bava pro jedine\u010dn\u00e9 suven\u00fdry.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Seznam knih, kter\u00e9 si mus\u00edte p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst p\u0159ed a po n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b m\u011bsta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pro prohlouben\u00ed va\u0161ich zku\u0161enost\u00ed se pod\u00edvejte na tato liter\u00e1rn\u00ed d\u00edla a pr\u016fvodce. Odhaluj\u00ed Moskvu zevnit\u0159 i zven\u010d\u00ed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Alexandr Pu\u0161kin \u2013 <em>Ev\u017een On\u011bgin<\/em> (1833):<\/strong> Tento typick\u00fd rusk\u00fd rom\u00e1n ve ver\u0161\u00edch p\u0159edstavuje petrohradsk\u00e9 a moskevsk\u00e9 salony. P\u0159e\u010dt\u011bte si kapitolu, kde On\u011bgin nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00ed Moskvu; atmosf\u00e9ra bulv\u00e1rn\u00edho kruhu v\u00e1m bude d\u00e1vat v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed smysl.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Nikolaj Gogol \u2013 <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> (1842):<\/strong> Gogolova moskevsk\u00e1 satira. \u00davodn\u00ed sc\u00e9na p\u0159ed \u010ci\u010dikovovou pracovnou (v Petrohradu) je n\u00e1dhern\u011b absurdn\u00ed, ale pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sc\u00e9ny (jako moskevsk\u00e9 hostince) odkazuj\u00ed na m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 jste nav\u0161t\u00edvili.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Michail Bulgakov \u2013 <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> (1967, publikov\u00e1no 1966):<\/strong> \u017d\u00e1dn\u00fd pr\u016fvodce Moskvou se bez n\u011bj neobejde. Vezm\u011bte si s sebou kopii sc\u00e9ny u rybn\u00edka; na m\u00edst\u011b pochop\u00edte pro\u010d. (Rom\u00e1n spojuje moskevsk\u00e1 m\u00edsta s fantastick\u00fdmi epizodami.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Lev Tolstoj \u2013 <em>Anna Karenina<\/em> (1878):<\/strong> Zam\u011b\u0159te se na \u010d\u00e1sti v Moskv\u011b: tane\u010dn\u00ed s\u00e1l, kde tan\u010d\u00ed Anna, a mo\u017en\u00e1 si prohl\u00e9dn\u011bte vojenskou p\u0159ehl\u00eddku v 7. knize (Tolst\u00e9ho skryt\u00e1 kritika aristokracie, odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se pobl\u00ed\u017e Moskvy).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Marina Cvetajevov\u00e1 \u2013 <em>B\u00e1sn\u00edci<\/em> (sb\u00edrka):<\/strong> Jej\u00ed lyrick\u00e9 b\u00e1sn\u011b o \u017eivot\u011b ve m\u011bst\u011b a exilu. Zejm\u00e9na \u201eMoskva, 1922\u201c zachycuje ho\u0159kosladk\u00e9 m\u011bsto po revoluci.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Jevgenij Zamjatin \u2013 <em>My<\/em> (1924):<\/strong> A\u010dkoli se d\u011bj odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 ve futuristick\u00e9m Rusku, \u010dten\u00ed v oblasti Patriarch\u00e1ln\u00edch rybn\u00edk\u016f (kde prob\u00edh\u00e1 N\u011bvsk\u00e1 linie) <em>My<\/em> je nastaveno) p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 rezonanci.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Eseje\/Historick\u00e9 pov\u00eddky:<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>*\u201eRud\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a za n\u00edm\u201c (kulturn\u00ed d\u011bjiny Moskvy) \u2013 r\u016fzn\u00ed auto\u0159i.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>*\u201eMoskva: M\u011bsto mrtv\u00fdch\u201c (Herzfeld) \u2013 kontext na h\u0159bitovech jako Novod\u011bvi\u010d\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Akademick\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce o liter\u00e1rn\u00edch d\u011bjin\u00e1ch Moskvy (nap\u0159. Jurij Ko\u010dnev o st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9m v\u011bku.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Doporu\u010den\u00e9 edice:<\/strong> U autor\u016f jako Bulgakov nebo Pu\u0161kin pou\u017eijte kvalitn\u00ed p\u0159eklady s pozn\u00e1mkami (nap\u0159. Pevear\/Volochonsky pro <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em>, Rosamund Bartlett pro <em>M&amp;M<\/em>). Redakto\u0159i cestovn\u00edch pr\u016fvodc\u016f tak\u00e9 poukazuj\u00ed na \u201eMoskevskou trilogii\u201c od Vasilije Aksjonova jako na pojet\u00ed 20. stolet\u00ed (ne p\u0159\u00edmo o Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru, ale s bohatou m\u011bstskou atmosf\u00e9rou).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u010casto kladen\u00e9 ot\u00e1zky<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Co je Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r v Moskv\u011b?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r je voln\u011b definovan\u00e1 4,4 km dlouh\u00e1 p\u011b\u0161\u00ed trasa vedouc\u00ed moskevsk\u00fdm Bulv\u00e1rn\u00edm okruhem, kter\u00e1 spojuje Tverskou a Nikitskou t\u0159\u00eddu, Star\u00fd Arbat, Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky a dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta spojen\u00e1 s rusk\u00fdm liter\u00e1rn\u00edm d\u011bdictv\u00edm. Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se na n\u00ed v\u00edce ne\u017e 15 pam\u00e1tek a muze\u00ed spisovatelsk\u00fdch dom\u016f (Pu\u0161kin, Gogol, Bulgakov atd.) a oslavuje roli Moskvy jako liter\u00e1rn\u00edho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Jak je Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r dlouh\u00fd a kolik \u010dasu je pot\u0159eba na jeho proch\u00e1zku?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Cel\u00e1 trasa je dlouh\u00e1 asi 4,4 km. Rychl\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka trv\u00e1 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 2\u20133 hodiny, ale se zast\u00e1vkami v muze\u00edch budete pot\u0159ebovat cel\u00fd den nebo dva. Na prohl\u00eddku hlavn\u00edch pam\u00e1tek v pohodov\u00e9m tempu si napl\u00e1nujte alespo\u0148 5\u20136 hodin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Kde za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 a kon\u010d\u00ed Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Je to okru\u017en\u00ed trasa, ale b\u011b\u017en\u00fdm v\u00fdchoz\u00edm bodem je Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (Pu\u0161kinova socha, metro Tversk\u00e1). Odtud jedete severoz\u00e1padn\u011b po Tversk\u00e9m bulv\u00e1ru, pot\u00e9 na Nikitsk\u00fd bulv\u00e1r, pot\u00e9 na Bol\u0161aja Nikitsk\u00e1 a nakonec na Arbatskou ulici a kon\u010d\u00edte u Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edk\u016f. M\u016f\u017eete se tak\u00e9 vr\u00e1tit okru\u017en\u00ed trasou, jet metrem z Patriarchov\u00fdch (Majakovsk\u00e1) stanic a vr\u00e1tit se po stejn\u00e9 trase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Jak\u00e9 pam\u00e1tky a sochy se nach\u00e1zej\u00ed na Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Mezi kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed pam\u00e1tky pat\u0159\u00ed: socha Alexandra Pu\u0161kina na Pu\u0161kinsk\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (odhalena 1880); Pu\u0161kin a Gon\u010darovov\u00e1 na Arbatu (1999); Nikolaj Gogol v Gogolov\u011b dom\u011b (p\u0159em\u00edst\u011bna na dv\u016fr Nikitsk\u00e9ho bulv\u00e1ru); Sergej Jesenin na Tversk\u00e9 ulici (1995); Bulat Okud\u017eava na Arbatu (2002); a dal\u0161\u00ed zasv\u011bcen\u00e9 \u010cechovovi, Cv\u011btajevov\u00e9 atd. Podrobnosti viz v\u00fd\u0161e v \u010d\u00e1sti 3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Jak\u00e1 muzea liter\u00e1rn\u00edch dom\u016f se nach\u00e1zej\u00ed pod\u00e9l trasy?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Mezi v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 pat\u0159\u00ed: Pu\u0161kin\u016fv pam\u011btn\u00ed byt (Arbat 53); Bulgakovovo muzeum (Bol\u0161aja Sadov\u00e1 10); Gogolov d\u016fm (Nikitsk\u00fd bulvar 7A); D\u016fm Mariny Cv\u011btajevov\u00e9 (Borisoglebsk\u00fd per. 6); D\u016fm Maxima Gork\u00e9ho (Mal\u00e1 Nikitskaja 6); plus Majakovsk\u00e9ho byt a Dostojevsk\u00e9ho byt v Moskv\u011b na Kuzn\u011bck\u00e9m most\u011b. Kompletn\u00ed adres\u00e1\u0159 s otev\u00edrac\u00ed dobou naleznete v sekci 4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Co se nach\u00e1z\u00ed na Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edc\u00edch a pro\u010d se nach\u00e1z\u00ed na Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Patriarchovy rybn\u00edky jsou mal\u00fd park s rybn\u00edkem v Presn\u011bnsk\u00e9m okrese, zn\u00e1m\u00fd jako \u00favodn\u00ed m\u00edsto odehr\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed Bulgakovova d\u00edla. <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em>Nedaleko stoj\u00ed pomn\u00edky Bulgakova a bajkara Ivana Krylova. A\u010dkoli je trochu mimo kruhov\u00fd bulv\u00e1r, je tradi\u010dn\u011b zahrnut pro sv\u00e9 siln\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed spojen\u00ed a je do n\u011bj dosa\u017eiteln\u00fd kousek p\u011b\u0161ky z Arbatsk\u00e9\/Majakovsk\u00e9 ulice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Je bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 chodit po Liter\u00e1rn\u00edm bulv\u00e1ru v noci?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Ano, oblast je obecn\u011b velmi bezpe\u010dn\u00e1. Arbat je p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3na a \u017eiv\u00e1 a\u017e do ve\u010dera. Doporu\u010duje se standardn\u00ed opatrnost (z\u016fsta\u0148te v dob\u0159e osv\u011btlen\u00fdch m\u00edstech). Po setm\u011bn\u00ed je otev\u0159eno jen m\u00e1lo atrakc\u00ed, i kdy\u017e Pu\u0161kinova socha a neon na Arbatu o\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed. Ob\u010das se konaj\u00ed no\u010dn\u00ed prohl\u00eddky (nap\u0159. \u201eLiter\u00e1rn\u00ed proch\u00e1zka duch\u016f\u201c), ale ty jsou sp\u00ed\u0161e novinkou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Mus\u00edm mluvit rusky, abych si mohl\/a u\u017e\u00edt Liter\u00e1rn\u00ed bulv\u00e1r?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Sta\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1kladn\u00ed angli\u010dtina. Velk\u00e1 muzea maj\u00ed n\u011bkter\u00e9 popisy nebo pr\u016fvodce v angli\u010dtin\u011b. Mnoho plaket na pam\u00e1tk\u00e1ch je v\u00edcejazy\u010dn\u00fdch (socha na Pu\u0161kinov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed m\u00e1 angli\u010dtinu). Pro nejlep\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek se nau\u010dte n\u011bkolik pozdrav\u016f nebo si vezm\u011bte s sebou p\u0159ekladatelskou aplikaci pro j\u00eddeln\u00ed l\u00edstky. Mnoho mlad\u00fdch lid\u00ed a \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edk\u016f v turistick\u00fdch oblastech mluv\u00ed alespo\u0148 \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b anglicky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Mohu se z\u00fa\u010dastnit komentovan\u00e9 liter\u00e1rn\u00ed prohl\u00eddky Moskvy?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Ano. N\u011bkolik spole\u010dnost\u00ed (v\u010detn\u011b prohl\u00eddek s pr\u016fvodcem m\u00edstn\u00ed univerzity) nab\u00edz\u00ed proch\u00e1zky s t\u00e9matikou Liter\u00e1rn\u00edho bulv\u00e1ru. M\u016f\u017eete si tak\u00e9 najmout soukrom\u00e9 pr\u016fvodce prost\u0159ednictv\u00edm platforem, jako je Airbnb Experiences. Bezplatn\u00e9 skupiny \u201eproch\u00e1zek m\u011bstem\u201c \u010dasto zahrnuj\u00ed liter\u00e1rn\u00ed trasu. Ov\u011b\u0159te si sv\u00e9 kvalifikace, proto\u017ee pr\u016fvodci by m\u011bli m\u00edt solidn\u00ed znalosti literatury a historie Moskvy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Ot\u00e1zka: Jak\u00e9 knihy bych si m\u011bl\/a p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst p\u0159ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvou?<\/strong><br><strong>A:<\/strong> Nejlep\u0161\u00ed doporu\u010den\u00ed: <em>Mistr a Mark\u00e9tka<\/em> (Bulgakov) \u2013 p\u0159e\u010dt\u011bte si prvn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se v Patriarchov\u00fdch rybn\u00edc\u00edch a mo\u017en\u00e1 i druh\u00fd d\u00edl odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se v Moskv\u011b. <em>Ev\u017een On\u011bgin<\/em> (Pu\u0161kin) a <em>Mrtv\u00e9 du\u0161e<\/em> (Gogol) pro atmosf\u00e9ru a jak\u00e9koli Pu\u0161kinovy \u200b\u200bb\u00e1sn\u011b o Moskv\u011b. Sou\u010dasn\u00e1 <em>Moskva: M\u011bsto literatury<\/em> Pr\u016fvodci (v angli\u010dtin\u011b) poskytuj\u00ed dobr\u00fd kontext. Dal\u0161\u00ed informace naleznete v \u010d\u00e1sti 10 v\u00fd\u0161e.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Literary Boulevard, which is in the middle of Moscow, offers a fascinating study of the life of Russia&#8217;s most well-known authors. This famous promenade, which runs 4.4 kilometers, features monuments honoring great writers including Alexander Pushkin and Nikolai Gogol. While completely interacting with the rich and complex universe of Russian literature, visitors have the chance to explore memorial museums, vibrant theaters, and great restaurants. Every step on this famous path reveals the close relationship between the city and its literary legacy.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4440,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_eb_attr":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2514","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-tourist-destinations","category-magazine"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2514","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2514"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2514\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4440"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2514"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2514"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2514"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}