Located within the little parish of Canillo in Andorra, Sant Joan de Caselles is a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture. On the edge of Canillo’s urban scene, on the road connecting Andorra la Vella and Pas de la Casa, this historical church is a major emblem of Andorran cultural legacy. Originating in the Romanesque era, the church first came under official notice in 1312 and was connected to another prominent church within the parish, Sant Serni de Canillo.
The name “Caselles” has historical relevance shown by its appearance in records going back to 1162 and 1176. With his trapezoidal arrangement, Sant Joan de Caselles holds a singular place in the annals of Andorran Romanesque art. At the northern and more limited end of the nave, the apse shows a modest design marked by a sleek outside and a single semicircular window. The apse’s inside vaulted design, which resembles a quarter-sphere, stands out from the nave by a wrought iron grille, so improving its architectural appeal.
Among the most striking features of the church is the Lombard-style bell tower. Given its clear separation from the main nave, this architectural style distinguishes itself among Andorran Romanesque churches. With a simple base that contrasts with the progressively complex windows of its top three levels, the bell tower’s square form epitomizes great workmanship. Whereas the top level comprises four windows, three of which are paired, the ground level features three semicircular apertures at its corners. Reflecting this architectural design, the third level produces a hipped roof construction. This tower is a prime example of the amazing qualities of Andorra’s Romanesque architecture.
Two porches incorporated during the 15th and 16th centuries further embellish the church’s front. Whereas the second porch, connected to the bell tower, enhances the architectural complexity of the construction, the first runs from the bell tower to the foundation of the nave.
Although the exact date of construction for Sant Joan de Caselles is unknown, experts believe it could have been built in the middle of the 12th century or maybe earlier. The remarkable interior elements of the church, which were exposed during the 1963 restoration projects, accentuate its historical significance.
Among the amazing discoveries made during the restoration was a stucco monument of Christ the Majesty, a highly valuable and rare object. Considered as “Christ in Stucco,” this sculpture is a master example of the complex artistry of the time. Made from stucco, a material both delicate and strong, the sculpture was molded straight but only fragments remain to tell its tale. The Christ figure is shown with a long tunic, sometimes known as a manicata, gracefully reaching the ankles. Notwithstanding the state of damage on the sculpture, the expressive facial traits, the complex folds that give the impression of hair, and the circular halo extending from the cross still clearly highlight the talent of the artists.
The artistic depth of the church is much enhanced by the frescoes found during the same restoration project. These murals quite faithfully depict events from the evangelical Calvary story. While the lower part shows figures like Stefanon, who offers a drink to Jesus, and Longinus, the centurion who pierces Christ’s side with a spear, the sun and moon above reflect the great darkness that covered the earth at the moment of Christ’s death. These arresting pictures provide a rich graphic record of the Passion.
One especially remarkable feature of Sant Joan de Caselles is its 1537-crafted main altarpiece, credited to Miquel Ramells and Guiu de Borgonyó. This amazing work highlights the great inspirations of the Italian and Germanic Renaissance traditions. Five separate aisles make up the altarpiece; the central aisle mostly shows an ancient portrayal of Saint John the Evangelist, the patron saint of the church, while the lateral aisles show different events from his life. The predella, or base, adds extra images depicting the Passion, so strengthening the spiritual and artistic story of the church.
Probably from the 18th century, the wrought iron grille inside the church marks the apse from the nave. Applied to the wooden slats obscuring the structural joints of the roof, the simple decorative patterns add a unique element to the interior design.
Romanesque architecture has enduring appeal and cultural relevance best shown by Sant Joan de Caselles. Comprising priceless artifacts and artworks that offer great insight into the spiritual and artistic traditions of their era, this site serves as both a custodian of historical relevance and a holy place.
Those who visit this remarkable site can really interact with the peaceful surroundings where the architectural legacy and the moving images of the interiors inspire great respect. Echoing across the years with ongoing relevance, the unique bell tower, the complex stucco sculpture of Christ, and the moving murals of Calvary together tell a great story of faith, artistry, and dedication.