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Church of Sant Romà d’Erts

AD400 Erts, Andorra

The Church of Sant Romà d’Erts, situated in the charming village of Erts within Andorra’s La Massana parish, exemplifies the intricate history and lasting devotion of the region. Built in the 19th century, this modest building is next to the ruins of its forerunner, an 11th-century Romanesque church, so creating a clear link between historical periods and modern life.

With its square floor layout, the modern church shows a simple but pleasing architectural form. The entrance stands out for a seated bell tower with two windows raised above a small porch with a gabled roof covering the main door. Two square windows on either side of the entrance accentuate the simple outside, which reflects the church’s understated beginnings as a community sanctuary. From the outside, the interior hides an amazing gem—a baroque altarpiece from the 18th century, rescued from the original Romanesque church. Though it seems small,

Designed in a two-tier arrangement with a predella, this altarpiece powerfully shows the martyrdom of Saint Romà, the beloved patron saint of the church. Nestled above the main tableau at the center of the composition, is a niche containing an image of the Immaculate Conception. Images of the Annunciation accompany this figure, so adding complex layers of religious narrative and artistic expression to the composition. A focal point in the church, the altarpiece offers insight into the devotional artistry and skill of its day.

A short distance away, hidden behind the village and reachable on a narrow road, lie the remnants of the original Romanesque church of Sant Romà. Built in the 11th century, this ancient monument is today mostly in ruin. The northern Tramuntana wall and a portion of the apse—which has been deftly blended into the terrain—acting as a retaining wall for a nearby road—make up the remains. The ruins show faint traces of mural paintings; but, their deteriorated condition makes it difficult to determine their exact age or thematic content. Still, these pieces provide great insight into the architectural and artistic traditions defining medieval Andorra.

Comprising a rectangular floor plan and an apse of like form, the ancient church was a small, single-nave construction. Originally a magnificent barrel vault, the roof has long since vanished and only traces of its former splendor remain. The front of the entrance was simple, with a wooden door on either side of two little square windows. Rising above the façade, a modest bell tower with two semicircular arch openings stood out from the rest of the construction in rather different proportions. Now mostly occupied by an electricity transformer, the church’s site highlights the evolving use of village space as well as the historical relevance of its foundations.

The Church of Sant Romà d’Erts is still a major spiritual and cultural lighthouse connecting guests to the medieval legacy of Andorra and its dynamic character over the years. The contrast between the remnants of the Romanesque forerunner and the whole 19th-century construction presents a convoluted tale of respect and endurance. While the ruins testify to the continuing core of Andorra’s basic Christian communities, the modern church promotes contemplation on the artistic and spiritual aspects of a more modern period.

These linked stories fit the village of Erts, which is reachable from the Arinsal road. The calm surroundings let guests consider the subtle elegance of the current church and consider the traces of its past. With its baroque altarpiece and evocative remnants of the Romanesque chapel, the Church of Sant Romà d’Erts mesmerizes and offers a thorough study of Andorra’s rich ecclesiastical legacy.

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